View Poll Results: Should I buy a tow strap with:
"loop" ends
69
88.46%
"hook" ends
9
11.54%
Voters: 78. You may not vote on this poll
Tow straps
#22
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sweet
I recently had this discussion with the guys about hooks or straps and we came to the same conclusion so i bought some looped straps but it's good to hear it backed up by the experts here.
#23
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Please, please, please do not use anything metal during a recovery. That includes tow straps with metal hooks.
As others mentioned, those are for towing a disabled vehicle on road where there is very little chance of a shock loading the strap. Most quality TOW straps even have a off colored thread that runs through them to show when the strap has been shock loaded and is no longer suitable for use.
A "Recovery" strap will always have sewn in eyes. During my Trail 101 classes I show examples of both and we talk about when each is appropriate. But I think it's this picture that I pass around that illustrates it best. This photo is of what happens when a strap with a metal hook fails.
Now imagine that was the back window or a person.
As others mentioned, those are for towing a disabled vehicle on road where there is very little chance of a shock loading the strap. Most quality TOW straps even have a off colored thread that runs through them to show when the strap has been shock loaded and is no longer suitable for use.
A "Recovery" strap will always have sewn in eyes. During my Trail 101 classes I show examples of both and we talk about when each is appropriate. But I think it's this picture that I pass around that illustrates it best. This photo is of what happens when a strap with a metal hook fails.
Now imagine that was the back window or a person.
#24
Originally posted by Corey
Cody, here is a solution for the front, but it's not cheap, but think of the added protection it will give you.
Cody, here is a solution for the front, but it's not cheap, but think of the added protection it will give you.
Ya Ya, go ahead and rub it a little more!
Hey Cebby, I will probably run out to my rig later this afternoon and check out the diameter of those rear holes, and see about ordering up a shackle or two for them. I'll let you know what i measure them at.
#25
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<There are a couple of small holes in the back that you could put a shackle through, or the big hoops under the rad.>
Cebby, those are "tie downs" for when the rig is transported on a flatbed or the like. They will tear and eventually fail if they are used for recovery. They should never be used for yanking or being yanked. In some clubs, usually the more harcore ones, you may not even have those on your rig so they don't get used for that purpose.
The best bet is replace those eyes with proper devices designed specifically for recovery. Shackels in a receiver, hooks, whatever.
(just call me "Safety Guy" today, but I have seen some pretty horendous injuries due to unsafe recovery techniques over the years and the fine folks here are way too nice to let those things happen to them)
Cebby, those are "tie downs" for when the rig is transported on a flatbed or the like. They will tear and eventually fail if they are used for recovery. They should never be used for yanking or being yanked. In some clubs, usually the more harcore ones, you may not even have those on your rig so they don't get used for that purpose.
The best bet is replace those eyes with proper devices designed specifically for recovery. Shackels in a receiver, hooks, whatever.
(just call me "Safety Guy" today, but I have seen some pretty horendous injuries due to unsafe recovery techniques over the years and the fine folks here are way too nice to let those things happen to them)
#26
Hey Rob,
Alright, I just want to be on the same page as you. So, you are saying that the round holes (that Cebby posted in his first two pics) should not be used as recovery points (like to put a shackle through? Secondly, do you think that if I have the stock front tow hook, and a shackle in the rear hitch receiver, that would be sufficient enough for recovery purposes? I just don't want to be under-equipped?
Alright, I just want to be on the same page as you. So, you are saying that the round holes (that Cebby posted in his first two pics) should not be used as recovery points (like to put a shackle through? Secondly, do you think that if I have the stock front tow hook, and a shackle in the rear hitch receiver, that would be sufficient enough for recovery purposes? I just don't want to be under-equipped?
#27
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Originally posted by CTB
Alright, now a question about tow hooks...
I just have the single factory tow hook in the front, and nothing in the rear (except for the factory hitch). Should I try installing another hook on the front, as well as one or two on the back, or should my current setup be sufficient?
If so, where should I look to purchase the hooks, and where should they be mounted? I haven't looked to see if there are any good stock mounting locations yet, sorry. Thanks for the info fellas-
CTB
Alright, now a question about tow hooks...
I just have the single factory tow hook in the front, and nothing in the rear (except for the factory hitch). Should I try installing another hook on the front, as well as one or two on the back, or should my current setup be sufficient?
If so, where should I look to purchase the hooks, and where should they be mounted? I haven't looked to see if there are any good stock mounting locations yet, sorry. Thanks for the info fellas-
CTB
#28
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Originally posted by CTB
Hey Rob,
Alright, I just want to be on the same page as you. So, you are saying that the round holes (that Cebby posted in his first two pics) should not be used as recovery points (like to put a shackle through? Secondly, do you think that if I have the stock front tow hook, and a shackle in the rear hitch receiver, that would be sufficient enough for recovery purposes? I just don't want to be under-equipped?
Hey Rob,
Alright, I just want to be on the same page as you. So, you are saying that the round holes (that Cebby posted in his first two pics) should not be used as recovery points (like to put a shackle through? Secondly, do you think that if I have the stock front tow hook, and a shackle in the rear hitch receiver, that would be sufficient enough for recovery purposes? I just don't want to be under-equipped?
As long as it's a recovery hook in the front, not an eye, one is usually sufficient for up to moderate off roading.
A receiver shackle in the rear is a GREAT option. It's a positive connection and the hitch is designed to bridge your frame to distribute the load.
#29
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Stainless Shackles
Hey Rob,
I was wondering what size those stainless shackles are on your rig. I am running 5/8" ones up front and the 3/4" one in the back. And where can I find some of those? I had seen some small ones at West Marine, but no larger than 1/2" ones. Thanks,
Romeo
I was wondering what size those stainless shackles are on your rig. I am running 5/8" ones up front and the 3/4" one in the back. And where can I find some of those? I had seen some small ones at West Marine, but no larger than 1/2" ones. Thanks,
Romeo
#30
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All four of my stainless shackles are 3/4". I hear you can buy them online, but I got mine in from http://www.tc-offroad.com/ in Kent. They sometimes stock them, but they sell out fast, so your best bet is to get your name on a list for when they come in.
#31
Originally posted by WATRD
Correct. Ideally, you would remove those before they break loose and kill someone. That is, unless you use them regularly for tying your rig down.
As long as it's a recovery hook in the front, not an eye, one is usually sufficient for up to moderate off roading.
A receiver shackle in the rear is a GREAT option. It's a positive connection and the hitch is designed to bridge your frame to distribute the load.
Correct. Ideally, you would remove those before they break loose and kill someone. That is, unless you use them regularly for tying your rig down.
As long as it's a recovery hook in the front, not an eye, one is usually sufficient for up to moderate off roading.
A receiver shackle in the rear is a GREAT option. It's a positive connection and the hitch is designed to bridge your frame to distribute the load.
#32
Rear receiver is good place.
Here I am testing out my winch for the first time a year ago on Jim's red truck.
I was like a kid with a new Toy
http://pnw4runners.net/runs/4602/9.mpg
http://pnw4runners.net/runs/4602/v15.mpg
http://pnw4runners.net/runs/4602/v16.mpg
That was about an hour before I got use the winch in a real recovery when I pulled out the blue 2nd gen from the snow.
Here I am testing out my winch for the first time a year ago on Jim's red truck.
I was like a kid with a new Toy
http://pnw4runners.net/runs/4602/9.mpg
http://pnw4runners.net/runs/4602/v15.mpg
http://pnw4runners.net/runs/4602/v16.mpg
That was about an hour before I got use the winch in a real recovery when I pulled out the blue 2nd gen from the snow.
#33
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Originally posted by CTB
Awesome, thanks a lot Rob. I appreciate the info. I love to go wheeling, but when it comes to recovery stuff, I don't have a ton of experience. It's good to get info from someone who knows what they are talking about. I guess I will be hitting up Performance Products for one of the receiver shackles! For once, they are the best price I have found on a product!
Awesome, thanks a lot Rob. I appreciate the info. I love to go wheeling, but when it comes to recovery stuff, I don't have a ton of experience. It's good to get info from someone who knows what they are talking about. I guess I will be hitting up Performance Products for one of the receiver shackles! For once, they are the best price I have found on a product!
Recovery, even just a quick yank is a dangerous proposition. You are dealing with thousands of pounds of steel, tons of potential/kinetic energy and often less than ideal condiditons all at the same time It's a good bet to make sure that your connection points are sound well before you need them, because when they fail, they tend to fail in a big way. I tend to overbuild my recovery points such that there is a safety factor bigger than I could ever imagine. Then I add a large dose of caution when it comes time to do the recover.
Some people get away with using tie-down eyes for recovery. Others are killed by it. I would prefer to hedge my bet rather than risk the unthinkable.
#34
Originally posted by WATRD
Some people get away with using tie-down eyes for recovery. Others are killed by it. I would prefer to hedge my bet rather than risk the unthinkable.
Some people get away with using tie-down eyes for recovery. Others are killed by it. I would prefer to hedge my bet rather than risk the unthinkable.
Man, there goes another $40 down the tube...school needs to get done so I can start working!!!
#35
While we are on the subject sort of for the receiver shackle you can buy, some prefer to not use that, and just stuff a strap in the receiver and put the pin through the hole.
What are thoughts on this?
I would tend to think it is a lot safer to use a receiver shackle like I have as the strap is on the outside and not stuffed into the hitch hole where it can get chafed on the square tubing inside.
Plus all the "yanking" force is on that pin, and if a receiver shackle is used, more of the force is spread out over a bigger area.
Am I being overly critical of doing it the cheap way, or is it better to do it the way with the
receiver shackle?
What are thoughts on this?
I would tend to think it is a lot safer to use a receiver shackle like I have as the strap is on the outside and not stuffed into the hitch hole where it can get chafed on the square tubing inside.
Plus all the "yanking" force is on that pin, and if a receiver shackle is used, more of the force is spread out over a bigger area.
Am I being overly critical of doing it the cheap way, or is it better to do it the way with the
receiver shackle?
#36
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Originally posted by Corey
While we are on the subject sort of for the receiver shackle you can buy, some prefer to not use that, and just stuff a strap in the receiver and put the pin through the hole.
What are thoughts on this?
I would tend to think it is a lot safer to use a receiver shackle like I have as the strap is on the outside and not stuffed into the hitch hole where it can get chafed on the square tubing inside.
Plus all the "yanking" force is on that pin, and if a receiver shackle is used, more of the force is spread out over a bigger area.
Am I being overly critical of doing it the cheap way, or is it better to do it the way with the
receiver shackle?
While we are on the subject sort of for the receiver shackle you can buy, some prefer to not use that, and just stuff a strap in the receiver and put the pin through the hole.
What are thoughts on this?
I would tend to think it is a lot safer to use a receiver shackle like I have as the strap is on the outside and not stuffed into the hitch hole where it can get chafed on the square tubing inside.
Plus all the "yanking" force is on that pin, and if a receiver shackle is used, more of the force is spread out over a bigger area.
Am I being overly critical of doing it the cheap way, or is it better to do it the way with the
receiver shackle?
The primary disadvantage to the pin method is that the strap can be damaged by the edges of the receiver. It's a good substitute when you don't have a receiver shackle handy, but it's not a long term solution.
#37
Registered User
Doubled looped straps, as is the consensus.
If I cannot get the strap in a hole, I use shackles. I have a couple of 7/8's and a couple of 15/16's from Ace, none of them were more than twenty bucks.
Regarding the pin in the receiver. With the gizmo that you have, all the force is still on the pin, but now you have introduced several more possible failure points to the line of connection.
Either way, if the hitch pin goes, you are done. I use a 2" strap in my 2" receiver. No problems at all.
If I cannot get the strap in a hole, I use shackles. I have a couple of 7/8's and a couple of 15/16's from Ace, none of them were more than twenty bucks.
Regarding the pin in the receiver. With the gizmo that you have, all the force is still on the pin, but now you have introduced several more possible failure points to the line of connection.
Either way, if the hitch pin goes, you are done. I use a 2" strap in my 2" receiver. No problems at all.
#39
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Originally posted by Flygtenstein
Regarding the pin in the receiver. With the gizmo that you have, all the force is still on the pin, but now you have introduced several more possible failure points to the line of connection.
Either way, if the hitch pin goes, you are done.
Regarding the pin in the receiver. With the gizmo that you have, all the force is still on the pin, but now you have introduced several more possible failure points to the line of connection.
Either way, if the hitch pin goes, you are done.
#40
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Originally posted by Cebby
Rob,
Thanks for the info on the tie downs. Are the brackets up front that I posted also just for tie down or are those for recovery?
Rob,
Thanks for the info on the tie downs. Are the brackets up front that I posted also just for tie down or are those for recovery?
On most rigs, there is a tie-down on each corner for securing the rig on the assembly line and for tying it down once it is put on a portable parking lot for delivery to the dealer. On rigs where you don't see an eye (the rear of a Tacoma), look for a similarly sized hole in the frame where a "T" or "J" tow hook would be attached.
None of the ones in the photos, except the hook are suitable, in my humble opinion, for recovery. In the event that you break down and end up on a flatbed, the driver *might* use them to tie the rig down, but it more likely to secure it via special hooks inserted in the frame. Why? Tow drivers don't trust those eyes to be securely fastened and neither should we