TYOTA

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i think this will work. tell me what ya think.

SteveO

Off the bat, that doesn't look too bad. But, I think we need to get a shot of the front side. We need to see the actual angle of the shafts, and see how the boots are sitting in relation to the shafts. Can you get any close up shots of the shafts, as well as shots of the front.

I would say not bad, but thats a subjective statement, we are all at different heights.

TYOTA

yeah hold on ill do it now

TYOTA

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here are a few pictures of my cv axles

SteveO

The 1st one doesn't look that bad. The 2nd and 3rd, are pretty scary. I'm willing to bet that the shaft is hitting the cup portion of the inboard joint.


IMAGE EDIT: Site being reworked.......


and that is where the vibration is coming from. The outboard joints have a pretty good amount of flexability, but the inboard joint has a tulip bearing that is not really that flexible. Its really designed to slide in and out of the inboard joint. I think you need to take at least a 1" inch out of that front lift. If you had manual hubs (I know more money, this is how I convinced the boss to go to manual hubs) you wouldn't have to worry about this issue on the road. But, anytime you lock in the hubs for the gravel roads, you can bet the vibration will come back.


judging by the angle of your lower A-arms, and with no manual hubs, you really need to bring it back down a bit. Those shafts are not going to last, and you risk cracking the inboard joint.

TYOTA

i like the way it sits now .. i hope thas not the case.

TYOTA

do you think there is any other way to fix this instead of takin the lift off?

HOJU

which diff drop did you use? how far was it supposed to drop it?

TYOTA

i used the 1" diff drop, and supposedly it supposed to drip it 1/2" or so.

SteveO

Sorry dude, probably not what you want to hear. People that don't own it, may want you to wheel the piss out of it, but when it breaks, I hope they are around to fix it. Its not a whole lot of fun popping those inboard joints out of the center section. If this is your daily driver, I would really bring it back down, as those shafts are turning all the time, and its just a matter of time before something gives.

With no manual hubs, you can't take the shaft out, and drive on the spindle alone. As stated before, the spindle has the bearing pressed into it, the shaft slide through it, and then a retaining nut is on the very end of the shaft. If you attempt to drive w/out the shaft in place, the bearing will become contaminated or worse yet, will come out, and then you have a real mess. To get those bearings replaced, its a pricey deal. The bearing alone costs 50 bucks, and then you have to have somebody at the shop do the pressing job. Sometimes, the spindle can become damaged (ask ABQJIM) and then in your reall into it for some money. Also, preloading the springs like that will really destroy the bottom of the struts (the rubber bushings) much quicker. Not only does the rubber bushing have to hold the weight of the rig, but now the pressure has been componded by a preload on the coils.

At any rate, I would really bring it back down and use a smaller lift to get what you want. It takes some time to tweak in a lift, and right now, I think you are too high.

my 2 cents.

Localmotion

where did you get it from? did they mesaure 1"?

Steve does have a really good point. When i did my OME881s with bilsteins(bad choice on my part) it lifted it about 3 inches. I drove around flinging lube everywhere until a week later, where i threw my tundra lift on.

2.5 spacers should give you 2.5" of lift...the tundra coils give about 2ish.

maybe the combo of shocks, spacers and struts have something to do with it?

HOJU

I think that lifts tend to give different results on different rigs, and different years. Since the beginning I've had ome-882's with a stock bumper and the revtek diff drop. I never have had any issues with my cv's and of course over time the 882's sagged and i put on the tjm. but at first i had roughly 3" maybe a hair more...

Judging from your pics, it doesn't even look like the diff has been lowered-

MTL_4runner

You sure you didn't steal my rig?
Man that looks like a carbon copy of mine.....very nice lookin' truck!

The angles are too much for sure from the pics you posted. You might want to bring the front down at least an inch (may give you a slight rake but when loaded you'll level right out). Yours is at least a 3"+ lift because mine has 881's and 890's and I only got about 2-2.25" of lift and from the pics it doesn't look quite as tall.

What size tires are you running in the pics?

Also is it just an optical illusion from the pic or is the front higher than the rear?

TYOTA

I Made My Own Diff Drop Out Of Solid Steel Shaft 2" Round 1" Thick. And Im Only Runnin Stock Sized Tires Right Now, Till I Figure This Problem Out. I Dont Understand Why Im Havin Probs And No One Else Has.
Also I Was Wonderin Where The Front Should Be Compared To The Back Level, +, Or - ?
When I Put The Diff Drop In It Seemed To Help Abit But That Vib Is Still There...

TYOTA

Oh And Thanks For The Compliment.. At Least It Looks Good Hahah

grimpy

I have to agree with Hoju, that is how my CV angle looked before I did the diff drop... Can you take pictures of the installed diff drop?

grimpy

Also from this pic... not sure if it's just my eyes or not but the spring doesn't look like it's seated properly.

MTL_4runner

I definately want to see the diff drop too, something doesn't look right if you did the diff drop and the angles are still that extreme on you CVs.

TYOTA

ill try and take some pics of the diff drop today. ill keep posted.. thanks for all the help guys.

harpen123

If it helps at all im having the same problem and have had it for about 8 months. Ive just kind of dealt with it but now am looking into fixing it.