Please help code po171
#22
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i was thinking of the forward 02 sensor. I already had the rear changed for another reason.
Last edited by Canadian Bacon; 10-12-2009 at 03:32 PM.
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Well I changed the fuel filter and still had the code, but since the filter was original (10 years old) I changed it and I'm glad I did despite the fact it was rusted pretty well on to the line.
I talked to the mechanics at my local Toyota dealer and they said that it would be the MAF so I took their word for it. They were right. No code after a couple of days. They also said that the K&N filter is junk and to get rid of it.
I talked to the mechanics at my local Toyota dealer and they said that it would be the MAF so I took their word for it. They were right. No code after a couple of days. They also said that the K&N filter is junk and to get rid of it.
#28
got a call from the mechanic. said when they smoke tested it, two other codes popped up. so he'll keep checking to see where the leak is. its just time consuming. so i'll have to leave the car at the shop for another day
anybody know what the actual problem was for their rig?
anybody know what the actual problem was for their rig?
#29
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got a call from the mechanic. said when they smoke tested it, two other codes popped up. so he'll keep checking to see where the leak is. its just time consuming. so i'll have to leave the car at the shop for another day
anybody know what the actual problem was for their rig?
anybody know what the actual problem was for their rig?
Well after changing my 10 year old fuel filter with milky fuel coming out of it, and not fixing the light, It likely won't be that. I would definitely check your MAF. It's 3 12mm bolts and a couple of hoses and your air box comes out. unscrew your MAF and see how much crap is stuck onto the wires. Mine was caked with black dirt, and it was the cause. Clean with electrocontact/MAF cleaner or try that seafoam everyone is talking about. It's a 10min job which I wish I tried first because it would have saved me a few days of work.
#30
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Maf cleaning question
Well after changing my 10 year old fuel filter with milky fuel coming out of it, and not fixing the light, It likely won't be that. I would definitely check your MAF. It's 3 12mm bolts and a couple of hoses and your air box comes out. unscrew your MAF and see how much crap is stuck onto the wires. Mine was caked with black dirt, and it was the cause. Clean with electrocontact/MAF cleaner or try that seafoam everyone is talking about. It's a 10min job which I wish I tried first because it would have saved me a few days of work.
#31
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They way I look at it, is that if it is broke, you can't make it more broke. If you clean with a q-tip, just be prepared to buy a new MAF.
I was looking through the Haynes manual and it says to change the MAF every 80 000KM, which I think is BS. Mine lasted me 200. In either case, I suppose if you have over 80K on your MAF, that it is expected to be changed.
I was looking through the Haynes manual and it says to change the MAF every 80 000KM, which I think is BS. Mine lasted me 200. In either case, I suppose if you have over 80K on your MAF, that it is expected to be changed.
#32
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well i have this code b4 it was the o2 sensor. yep and those drop in k/n filter are junk it can damnage the hot wire in the air mass sensor. the o2 sensor or expenisve 100 dollar a pop thank god we 3rd gen only have 2
#33
got a second opinion from a friends mechanic. he said that 85% of the time with toyotas, its the MAF. if that doesn't work get new o2 sensors.
i looked some up on google.. cheapest is $60 ea.
here:
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...ek+Google+Base
i looked some up on google.. cheapest is $60 ea.
here:
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...ek+Google+Base
#34
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MAF...you are correct sir..
got a second opinion from a friends mechanic. he said that 85% of the time with toyotas, its the MAF. if that doesn't work get new o2 sensors.
i looked some up on google.. cheapest is $60 ea.
here:
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...ek+Google+Base
i looked some up on google.. cheapest is $60 ea.
here:
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/...ek+Google+Base
oil from an oiled air filter was caked on to the MAF wires had to lightly clean large wires with a q-tip dampned w/ MAF cleaner worked like a charm.
NOTE: There ARE TWO small wires consealed in the black tube I MEAN SMALL... and they look like they can be easily damaged ...i didn't dare use a q-tip on these... I JUST SPRAYED w MAF CLEANER...A TON of grime came back out of the tube..reset code and perfect...no code no missing, got my runner back.. nice
Last edited by icerunner; 11-22-2009 at 11:28 PM.
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I was looking at the Underdog Racing Development (URD) Rear Sensor Simulator to address these flaky CEL's. Based on the quote above it seems like this might be a waste of money. any thoughts?
http://www.urdusa.com/index.php?cPat...3j1leudi1qsef5 <---link to URD part mentioned.
http://www.urdusa.com/index.php?cPat...3j1leudi1qsef5 <---link to URD part mentioned.
#36
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I was looking at the Underdog Racing Development (URD) Rear Sensor Simulator to address these flaky CEL's. Based on the quote above it seems like this might be a waste of money. any thoughts?
http://www.urdusa.com/index.php?cPat...3j1leudi1qsef5 <---link to URD part mentioned.
http://www.urdusa.com/index.php?cPat...3j1leudi1qsef5 <---link to URD part mentioned.
#38
I'm having the same code po171 and 306 and I'v replaced the spark plugs, wires, and fuel filter and cleaned and replaced maf sensor. I'm still getting the same codes any ideas what to try next?
#39
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#40
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test injector #6? This is one thing that can cause both codes and is high on the list for troubleshooting both codes.
Last edited by TheDurk; 02-15-2010 at 11:22 AM.