rimpainter.com

Cooler temps better come quick because I'm about to pull this stuff off, sell it, and go N/A. The ping just doesn't stop! And quite frankly I am a bit sick of running 11 degrees of timing retard from 1600 - 2900 RPM.

But dang I love that HP bump in WOT! Argh!

mt_goat

What are your water temps running Christian?

rimpainter.com

I'm not sure Dale. I have the NAPA 170 thermo, Redline Water Wetter with 70/30 H20/coolant mixture, and the coolant bypass mod. Not to mention the functional hood scoop, the Free FMU mod, closed deckplate but elbow mod...and the list goes on. What Mark (and others) are saying about this ECU is so true; it's just worthless in closed loop. All it does is fight to get to 14.7.

I'm convinced that I live in the harshest possible environment in the U.S. for forced induction; temps nearing 110, very low humidity, and 91 octane gas do not "mix" well (pun intended).

When the cool weather comes the difference is astounding.

mt_goat

Don't you have an OBDII scanner?

Stevo3

I cant agree with you more, thats why you gotta take it easy in the summer time, then have the fun in winter time Even I have a hard time with that one because i love the sound of the s/c, and the look on the driver of a civic that revs on you and you eat them alive hehehe.

rimpainter.com

No. Doug (blink) temporarily had me hooked up to some monitoring equipment via my laptop, but I don't have an OBDII scanner. I think the SMT has the ability to tap the coolant temp sensor wire, but I never did it. Or maybe I did and it's not accurate, I can't remember.

It really is the weather. Heat soak + high IAT = ping.

Stevo3

I have resolved a lot of my ping christian, And you should see my timing maps. i have nowhere near 11 retard in my map at all. highest i have is like 3.

And i can loan you my br3 scanner if youd like to see what the temps are. I still wanna see your truck man.

midiwall

I just got home, the ECU was sitting on the porch.

Swapped it in, fired it up...

Nope. Same engine symptom. Same weird MAF readings via OBDII...


Wal-Mart's having a sale on ammo (as usual), I think I'll buy a nice big gun to go with a coupel of boxes. Time to shoot this thing.

HUTCHSTACO

mark this is too bad... have you considered taking it into a shop

Weasy2k

Son of a cow patty!










Im going to have to reread this thread to see what you have done...man something is up...

mt_goat

A 300 Win Mag should do it, it will blow a 3/4" hole in 1/4" thick T1 steel plate.

I forgot but I guess you replaced the MAF already right?

midiwall

Yeah, it actually runs worse with the stock MAF on it (I have the Supra MAF in it now). Recap:

• replaced the injectors (the stock ones are in it now)
• physical timing is spot-on (i.e, checked with a light)
• plugs are fine
• wires are fine
• no vacuum leaks
• replaced ECU
• replaced fuel filter
• replaced O2
• replaced MAF
• replaced TPS
• replaced exhaust from headers to tail

There's a video link a couple of pages back, but basically the physical symptom is:

- Engine runs great up to 2800 RPM. Idles well, has pull, throttle response is perfect, etc.
- At 2800 RPM it bogs HORRIBLY. It runs so rich that you can smell the fuel in the tail pipe

This is an _instant_ switchover. I can hover just below 2800 and it's fine. A hair more pedal and I'm sunk. This is NOT load based. I can pull up an 11% grade by the house with no trouble. Get it to 2800, and I'm looking to pull over.

Additional symptom is that when "this" happens, OBDII reports a MAF reading that shoots from 1lb/min ->10lb/min, Engine load goes from 16% to 97%. Again, this isn't gradual, it's like someone threw a switch.



I have, but up to this point it's been a pride thing, ya' know? There's also a sense of not wanting to pay a tech diag fee for this. There's a separation in that I may be able to find a shop that will diagnose it, then I'll fix it, but most shops swap parts as part of the diagnostics and of course charge you for them.

I just can't swallow paying a dealer $2000 for diags and to re-replace all the parts I've already run through it.

Doctor D's local, but I know he's pretty swamped. At this point though, I may just see if I can drop it in front of his house and chuck him the keys. It's different if _he_ charges me $2000.

mt_goat

Have you tried the new (new to you) ECU with a stock MAF?

midiwall

Nope, it was pitch black when I swapped the ECU last night, and once it didn't work, the dejection was hitting pretty hard.

But given the EXACT same symptoms, I can't imagine it's going to be any different.

Weasy2k

Did you hack into the wiring harness at all for the piggybacks? Can you verify everything is back to way it was?
I am just wondering if a wire was cross somewhere and would mess with the voltage?

If this keeps up man here is what i would do myself...its a bitch but you have to verify all possibilities....

1) Using a multimeter check voltage of the MAF signal to see what it is doing...IE going from 1-2v to 5v pegged

2) Check to make sure there is no crossed wires anywhere

3) Run a single wire directly from maf signal to outside of engine bay and into the ecu. Just to again verify that you are getting the true maf signal.


just gotta verify everything is hooked up properly, although i assume you did its just safe to see what the hell is up with everything.

Oh and ide also go as far as throwing in the smt5 and pulling like 75 points of fuel at 2800+rpm Just to see if that would calm the thing down.

Also the smt6 may be useful at this point to see what is going on in the system IE watching the load deflection to see if it too would shoot all over the place.

ozziesironmanoffroad

what does it do? does it lose power and chug? or does it just lose power and slow down uphill, like mine?

ozziesironmanoffroad

hmmm.... yeah i agree with the walmart idea. hell, after you put a couple rounds thru her, she might get smart and run better. . its a FI right... it sounds a bit like your fuel system, that its delivering WAAAY too much fuel. check your maf, your fuel pressure sensor, all that good stuff. thats honestly all i can think of... good luck..

midiwall

"Chug" is putting it nicely. Check the video from here:

https://www.yotatech.com/50568535-post23.html

ozziesironmanoffroad

try gapping your spark plugs differently, not much differently, just enuf to make a bigger spark for more explosion. cuz yeah your flooding and the engine cant keep up with all the fuel coming in. the video isnt playing for me, but yeah i get what your talking about. my buddys did that, but his was a carburator, so we just used carb cleaner and replaced his ORIGINAL air filter(1987) and it ran a lot better. hope that helps you a little bit....

midiwall

Okay, but...

This wouldn't explain why OBDII reports an engine load of 97% and an airflow through the MAF that's far beyond the theoretical maximum of the device.

I think THAT's a symptom of the real problem, and everything else is a side effect of the ECU freaking out to some external input. So, if the ECU really does think that there's that much air coming in, then it makes sense that it'd try to toss a horrible amount of fuel, and of course that would flood the engine and create the chugging.

And then that opens the question, why is this happening on a hair trigger? We're talking a ballpark here of 30-50RPM difference. A VERY narrow range.