new guy wants faster taco
#1
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new guy wants faster taco
HELLO ALL!!!!
Im glad I found this board, really!
I have a 98 tacoma 2x4 v6 manual trans with the works...
supercharger
deckplate
370cc injectors
dual in tank supra fuel pumps
S-AFC
17" wheels
dual battery system
crazy ass stereo ( just ask )
Im producing 300HP and was wondering if anybody had any ideas for creating some serious HP with this engine.... I experimented with a 13psi pulley and had bad backfire problems, so I put the stock pulley back on--truck runs nice but only in the 13's --- I lost a race to a WS6 trans-am, that one really pissed me off!
but anyways nice board you got here!
Tim
Im glad I found this board, really!
I have a 98 tacoma 2x4 v6 manual trans with the works...
supercharger
deckplate
370cc injectors
dual in tank supra fuel pumps
S-AFC
17" wheels
dual battery system
crazy ass stereo ( just ask )
Im producing 300HP and was wondering if anybody had any ideas for creating some serious HP with this engine.... I experimented with a 13psi pulley and had bad backfire problems, so I put the stock pulley back on--truck runs nice but only in the 13's --- I lost a race to a WS6 trans-am, that one really pissed me off!
but anyways nice board you got here!
Tim
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Welcome to the board. I'm not really sure how to make things faster, you seem to have all that I could suggest. I say go for the Nitros, haha. I know some of the other guys around here might know about making your truck FASTER, ask Gadget, he has one bad ass 4Runner, he has run close to a 13 b4. Go check out his web site for the story on that one. I'm sure others will chime in on this, if your lucky Gadget will and if not try to private message him. Good Luck and keep us updated on the evolution of your speedy taco, lol. Once again welcome.
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Originally posted by EClayton08
Nitrous, Level 10 valve body upgrade
Nitrous, Level 10 valve body upgrade
Maybe a TRD exhaust (if you don't have it already)
TRD headers
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Twin entry turbos... taggr has a nice setup drawn up, but there were problems developing it as the shop he was dealing with jerked him around.
I never understood this, but if you want to race and win against a higher end trans am, why would you be doing it in a pickup? That's not what they are meant for. Someone help me understand.
I never understood this, but if you want to race and win against a higher end trans am, why would you be doing it in a pickup? That's not what they are meant for. Someone help me understand.
#7
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Thread Starter
cam (S)
I thought about the nitrous, but im really looking for real power-- not for power for 10 seconds...i dont really drag race, just have fun.
already got a flowmaster exhaust
headers...hmmm sure, but Im not going to spend 1000 dollars for TRD headers--:eek: Anyone know of any less expensive companies.
I would love to install some cam (s) in this engine but cant seem to find a shop willing to mess with a 4 cam engine.
about racing firebirds, I know thats not what a taco is for, but why not? its fun!
thanks guys!
already got a flowmaster exhaust
headers...hmmm sure, but Im not going to spend 1000 dollars for TRD headers--:eek: Anyone know of any less expensive companies.
I would love to install some cam (s) in this engine but cant seem to find a shop willing to mess with a 4 cam engine.
about racing firebirds, I know thats not what a taco is for, but why not? its fun!
thanks guys!
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#8
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A better set up than the TRD S/C would be:
Eaton M90 Supercharger
Spearco Intercooler
Aquamist Water Injection System
Custom Pistons and Conrods (to handle the additional boost)
Head Port and Polish
RC Engineering 550cc Injectors
Then use a Simple Digital Systems Racing Computer to tie it all together.
It would take some custom work to get the Eaton M90 S/C and Speaco Intercooler to fit, but after that it would be mostly downhill. You could possibly get 400+/- hp ...
Hey Tim, just curious ... did you have a Dyno test on your Taco or are you estimating 300hp from the mods you already have?
Eaton M90 Supercharger
Spearco Intercooler
Aquamist Water Injection System
Custom Pistons and Conrods (to handle the additional boost)
Head Port and Polish
RC Engineering 550cc Injectors
Then use a Simple Digital Systems Racing Computer to tie it all together.
It would take some custom work to get the Eaton M90 S/C and Speaco Intercooler to fit, but after that it would be mostly downhill. You could possibly get 400+/- hp ...
Hey Tim, just curious ... did you have a Dyno test on your Taco or are you estimating 300hp from the mods you already have?
#9
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Edelbrock makes headers for the 3.4L. I run those on mine and they run real nice. The cost me about $360 (I think).
They looked really nice for about 2 miles, then all the black satin finish went up in smoke.
And, if you get the Aquamist setup, you GOTTA give us pictures. I have been wanting a water injection system for quite sometime now.
They looked really nice for about 2 miles, then all the black satin finish went up in smoke.
And, if you get the Aquamist setup, you GOTTA give us pictures. I have been wanting a water injection system for quite sometime now.
#10
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hmmmm.....good ideas
hey BEOWULF
Im probably going to stick with the same supercharger, it can produce some serious boost according to eaton, I was just wondering what it would take to run 13 psi without backfiring-- Im sure I need new valvesprings and head work in order to do that-- ( the racing computer wont pass smog eh? ), but is that computer necessary for any large engine mods. I will look into the intercooler system and see if that will work.
What I really want to do is retain the TRD SC and use the 2.00in diameter pulley-- but not quite sure how to alter the engine to do so..... im in CA, so smog check II still applies.
oh ya-- my truck was dynoed to produce exactly 294.6HP@ sea level.
Tim
Im probably going to stick with the same supercharger, it can produce some serious boost according to eaton, I was just wondering what it would take to run 13 psi without backfiring-- Im sure I need new valvesprings and head work in order to do that-- ( the racing computer wont pass smog eh? ), but is that computer necessary for any large engine mods. I will look into the intercooler system and see if that will work.
What I really want to do is retain the TRD SC and use the 2.00in diameter pulley-- but not quite sure how to alter the engine to do so..... im in CA, so smog check II still applies.
oh ya-- my truck was dynoed to produce exactly 294.6HP@ sea level.
Tim
#11
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Do some searches at this forum:
http://www.outdoorwire.com/ubb/ultim...ubb=forum;f=13
There was a guy that blew his 3.4L engine due to too much boost or something. Just do a search for "blown engine" or something like that. Also try "need for speed"
http://www.outdoorwire.com/ubb/ultim...ubb=forum;f=13
There was a guy that blew his 3.4L engine due to too much boost or something. Just do a search for "blown engine" or something like that. Also try "need for speed"
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Re: hmmmm.....good ideas
Originally posted by Duffdog
hey BEOWULF
Im probably going to stick with the same superchargerTim
hey BEOWULF
Im probably going to stick with the same superchargerTim
Originally posted by Duffdog
I was just wondering what it would take to run 13 psi without backfiring-- Im sure I need new valvesprings and head work in order to do that
I was just wondering what it would take to run 13 psi without backfiring-- Im sure I need new valvesprings and head work in order to do that
Originally posted by Duffdog
-- ( the racing computer wont pass smog eh? )
-- ( the racing computer wont pass smog eh? )
Originally posted by Duffdog
is that computer necessary for any large engine mods.
is that computer necessary for any large engine mods.
The bottom line is that the standalone route only makes sense if you dramatically exceed the capabilities of the stock system. A 45% increase in power, while significant, doesn't overwhelm the well-engineered stock EFI. However, if you were asking that same motor to make 380 flywheel hp, you would be doing yourself a favor to use a *good* standalone system.
Originally posted by Duffdog
I will look into the intercooler system and see if that will work.
I will look into the intercooler system and see if that will work.
Originally posted by Duffdog
oh ya-- my truck was dynoed to produce exactly 294.6HP@ sea level.
oh ya-- my truck was dynoed to produce exactly 294.6HP@ sea level.
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Re: hmmmm.....good ideas
Originally posted by Duffdog
hey BEOWULF
Im probably going to stick with the same supercharger, it can produce some serious boost according to eaton, I was just wondering what it would take to run 13 psi without backfiring-- Im sure I need new valvesprings and head work in order to do that-- ( the racing computer wont pass smog eh? ), but is that computer necessary for any large engine mods. I will look into the intercooler system and see if that will work.
What I really want to do is retain the TRD SC and use the 2.00in diameter pulley-- but not quite sure how to alter the engine to do so..... im in CA, so smog check II still applies.
oh ya-- my truck was dynoed to produce exactly 294.6HP@ sea level.
Tim
hey BEOWULF
Im probably going to stick with the same supercharger, it can produce some serious boost according to eaton, I was just wondering what it would take to run 13 psi without backfiring-- Im sure I need new valvesprings and head work in order to do that-- ( the racing computer wont pass smog eh? ), but is that computer necessary for any large engine mods. I will look into the intercooler system and see if that will work.
What I really want to do is retain the TRD SC and use the 2.00in diameter pulley-- but not quite sure how to alter the engine to do so..... im in CA, so smog check II still applies.
oh ya-- my truck was dynoed to produce exactly 294.6HP@ sea level.
Tim
The Eaton is not suited for any application over 13 PSI. If you are going to run that kind of boost you will need to use a different style supercharger like the Lyshlom or use a turbo. Charge air cooling should also be done if you are increasing boost.
If you want to increase boost you really should use something other then the Eaton M-62. A larger supercharger would be much better. I think the M-62 is reaching its limit with the 3.4. TRD should have used a larger supercharger for our engine. Now to increase boost you will really have to overspeed that little supercharger. A bigger slower one would be better.
You will not need to use stiffer valve springs with more boost. There is no evidence that there is any valve float in this engine when operated upto the stock redline. Stiffer springs might be needed if you are going over stock RPM so the valves won't float or fail to close. Stiffer valve springs take more HP to open the valves and will reduce the output of the engine in the normal RPM range. I think I have finally convinced Trager of that. His new engine is using stock valve springs.
I would love to see your 294 HP dyno chart. Can you post it for us? I am having great difficulty believing that you are putting 294 HP to the wheels. If the chart does show that can you let us know if it was corrected or uncorrected and if corrected what correction factor the chart used and what the ambient conditions were??? Thank you in advance.
Gadget
www.GadgetOnline.com
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Re: Re: hmmmm.....good ideas
Originally posted by Gadget
I would love to see your 294 HP dyno chart. Can you post it for us? I am having great difficulty believing that you are putting 294 HP to the wheels. If the chart does show that can you let us know if it was corrected or uncorrected and if corrected what correction factor the chart used and what the ambient conditions were??? Thank you in advance.
Gadget
www.GadgetOnline.com
I would love to see your 294 HP dyno chart. Can you post it for us? I am having great difficulty believing that you are putting 294 HP to the wheels. If the chart does show that can you let us know if it was corrected or uncorrected and if corrected what correction factor the chart used and what the ambient conditions were??? Thank you in advance.
Gadget
www.GadgetOnline.com
Hey Gadget, by the way what do you think about the Aquamist Water Injection System? It seems that it may have some good potential ... but how much work would need to be done to custom fit it in a 4Runner?
Thanks
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The Aquamist is the best one on the market. I was thinking of installing one and worked out all the plans to do so, but never followed through with it.
I did install a Compressor Discharge Temp (CDT) gauge to see what the temp is leaving the SC. It gets damn hot. With the stock pulley it will run 200-220 F at times. Normal none boost operation runs around 150 F so the SC is putting a good amount of heat into the charge air. This is way I keep telling people to stay the hell away from those smaller pullies. It only makes it much worse.
I have been in touch with a few people that have installed the Aquamist system and one reports no change in 1/4 mile times. The other works at a dealer in Canada and can monitor knock sensor activity and he reports a dramatic reduction in knock so it appears that it does work.
Gadget
www.GadgetOnline.com
I did install a Compressor Discharge Temp (CDT) gauge to see what the temp is leaving the SC. It gets damn hot. With the stock pulley it will run 200-220 F at times. Normal none boost operation runs around 150 F so the SC is putting a good amount of heat into the charge air. This is way I keep telling people to stay the hell away from those smaller pullies. It only makes it much worse.
I have been in touch with a few people that have installed the Aquamist system and one reports no change in 1/4 mile times. The other works at a dealer in Canada and can monitor knock sensor activity and he reports a dramatic reduction in knock so it appears that it does work.
Gadget
www.GadgetOnline.com
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Originally posted by Gadget
I did install a Compressor Discharge Temp (CDT) gauge to see what the temp is leaving the SC. It gets damn hot. With the stock pulley it will run 200-220 F at times. Normal none boost operation runs around 150 F so the SC is putting a good amount of heat into the charge air.www.GadgetOnline.com
I did install a Compressor Discharge Temp (CDT) gauge to see what the temp is leaving the SC. It gets damn hot. With the stock pulley it will run 200-220 F at times. Normal none boost operation runs around 150 F so the SC is putting a good amount of heat into the charge air.www.GadgetOnline.com
Were your install plans similar to this diagram at all? I'm just trying to get an idea of how difficult this would be to set up.
I have seen a few systems up for auction on ebay for around $400.00 ... It just seems like a well made system compared to the window washer set ups I have seen.
And as you mentioned above, I like the idea of reduced engine knock ... being here in San Diego I need all the help I can get, but I'm wondering if it's worth it after hearing about the guy you mentioned not changing his 1/4 mile times ... did he get any gains at all?
Thanks
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I was going to install the pump on the passenger side frame rail forward of the AC compressor. I was going to install the water/alcohol tank on the side of the battery. The 3D ECU was going to be installed under the dash interfaced with one of the fuel injector wires or the MAF signal. I was going to use two .5 mm nozzles, one on each side of the discarge chute that connects the supercharger to the box plenum on my 1st gen supercharger.
I was going to set up the water to start injecting at about 3 PSI and match 20% of the total fuel delivery as determined by the fuel injector interface and then start tuning from there.
The guy that saw no change in his track times was already running a wet NOS system and I am sure that was already cooling things off pretty well. Of course I have no idea how he tuned it.
Water injection has been around for a very long time and has been used in aircraft engines for about 60 years. The idea is to supress knock and provide some cooling in those big recip aircraft engines. One version of the PW R-2800 was rated at 2200 HP dry and 2500 with water injection for a 10 minute take-off/military power. With the water they could run higher boost and a leaner mixture and that is where the power came from.
Gadget
www.GadgetOnline.com
I was going to set up the water to start injecting at about 3 PSI and match 20% of the total fuel delivery as determined by the fuel injector interface and then start tuning from there.
The guy that saw no change in his track times was already running a wet NOS system and I am sure that was already cooling things off pretty well. Of course I have no idea how he tuned it.
Water injection has been around for a very long time and has been used in aircraft engines for about 60 years. The idea is to supress knock and provide some cooling in those big recip aircraft engines. One version of the PW R-2800 was rated at 2200 HP dry and 2500 with water injection for a 10 minute take-off/military power. With the water they could run higher boost and a leaner mixture and that is where the power came from.
Gadget
www.GadgetOnline.com
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Originally posted by Gadget
I was going to install the pump on the passenger side frame rail forward of the AC compressor. I was going to install the water/alcohol tank on the side of the battery. The 3D ECU was going to be installed under the dash interfaced with one of the fuel injector wires or the MAF signal. I was going to use two .5 mm nozzles, one on each side of the discarge chute that connects the supercharger to the box plenum on my 1st gen supercharger.
I was going to set up the water to start injecting at about 3 PSI and match 20% of the total fuel delivery as determined by the fuel injector interface and then start tuning from there.
Gadget
www.GadgetOnline.com
I was going to install the pump on the passenger side frame rail forward of the AC compressor. I was going to install the water/alcohol tank on the side of the battery. The 3D ECU was going to be installed under the dash interfaced with one of the fuel injector wires or the MAF signal. I was going to use two .5 mm nozzles, one on each side of the discarge chute that connects the supercharger to the box plenum on my 1st gen supercharger.
I was going to set up the water to start injecting at about 3 PSI and match 20% of the total fuel delivery as determined by the fuel injector interface and then start tuning from there.
Gadget
www.GadgetOnline.com