new fuel filter,,,,is it possible?!!!!!
07-25-2004, 10:22 PM
#42
Originally Posted by Fahrenheit 451
The fuel filter on a 22re is a pain, but it can be lessened:
1. jack up the truck high on the passenger front and put it on a jackstand,
2. remove the passenger side tire
3. remove the access plate on the inner fender
4. take off the gas cap
5. remove the front fuel line. I think it takes a 17mm socket DO NOT REMOVE REAR LINE
6. remove the mounting bolts, upper and lower. 12mm I think (maybe 14mm)
7. pull the fuel filter out between the fender and frame and remove the rear fuel line. Trust me, this saves a ton of grief of trying to reach in and remove the rear fuel line.
8. remove the filter while trying to hold it somewhat level. It will have gas in it and will spill all over
9. remove plug(s) from new filter
10. install rear fuel line on the filter making sure to use the new copper gaskets at the banjo fitting
11. mount fuel filter on block
12. install front fuel line on the filter making sure to use the new copper gaskets. When installing the fuel lines make sure in both instances to ensure the gaskets are still in place when you put the banjo fitting on the filter.
13. make sure fuel line bolts are snug. Use an opened end wrench to hold the filter ends when tightening so as not to rip the filter
14. fire up the truck and check for leaks. It will take a bit of extra cranking to get it started since the fuel system has a pocket of air in it.
15. button everything back up, put on the tire, drop it on the ground and pat yourself on the back. You just beat the crap out of your knuckles, upset the neighbors, emabarrassed your wife, taught your kids and all the kids in the neighborhood all sorts of new vocabulary words to use on the playground and you saved yourself a trip to the mechanic and $35-40
1. jack up the truck high on the passenger front and put it on a jackstand,
2. remove the passenger side tire
3. remove the access plate on the inner fender
4. take off the gas cap
5. remove the front fuel line. I think it takes a 17mm socket DO NOT REMOVE REAR LINE
6. remove the mounting bolts, upper and lower. 12mm I think (maybe 14mm)
7. pull the fuel filter out between the fender and frame and remove the rear fuel line. Trust me, this saves a ton of grief of trying to reach in and remove the rear fuel line.
8. remove the filter while trying to hold it somewhat level. It will have gas in it and will spill all over
9. remove plug(s) from new filter
10. install rear fuel line on the filter making sure to use the new copper gaskets at the banjo fitting
11. mount fuel filter on block
12. install front fuel line on the filter making sure to use the new copper gaskets. When installing the fuel lines make sure in both instances to ensure the gaskets are still in place when you put the banjo fitting on the filter.
13. make sure fuel line bolts are snug. Use an opened end wrench to hold the filter ends when tightening so as not to rip the filter
14. fire up the truck and check for leaks. It will take a bit of extra cranking to get it started since the fuel system has a pocket of air in it.
15. button everything back up, put on the tire, drop it on the ground and pat yourself on the back. You just beat the crap out of your knuckles, upset the neighbors, emabarrassed your wife, taught your kids and all the kids in the neighborhood all sorts of new vocabulary words to use on the playground and you saved yourself a trip to the mechanic and $35-40
16. Have a handgun handy to blow your brains out when doing this job.
Or if you are lucky, the guy that thought up the idea of placing it there on the 22re will happen by and you can shoot him instead. What a pain... but worth it I'm sure. I thought maybe mine was original at 228k but then I found an old work order for a swap at 75 or 80k or so. I recall it was leaking back then. Also, the replacement they put in was a Bosch, and it went approx 140k. So maybe they make some good stuff, or maybe I just got lucky.
07-26-2004, 05:16 AM
#44
Contributing Member
Originally Posted by Maddog
how do you get the crossmember off.?
IMHO, lowering the X-member first is the only way to do this job.
07-26-2004, 06:22 AM
#45
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Wow!. I changed my 98's fuel filter after reading this thread and it was really worth the difference. My Runner had 72,000 miles on it and obviously nobody had ever changed the filter (it was covered with the original asphalt coating).
Not bad a boost for $14 and some gas on your face! :-]
Not bad a boost for $14 and some gas on your face! :-]
07-27-2004, 08:28 PM
#47
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so how hard would this be for a person who has novice mechanic skills with a '91 4Runner with a 3.0 engine? Any websites with a kind of walkthrough? I am sure this would help my truck out and I want to do it without having to pay anyone for labor fees.
07-27-2004, 08:39 PM
#48
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look here
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech...ter/churnd.htm
i did mine without removing the transmission crossmember today on my 94 truck.my fuel lines were not hard or stuck at all. might not be the same on yours tho. i notice i can get to 3k to 4k faster on my auto. if u like fuel all over your arms and face go for it.
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech...ter/churnd.htm
i did mine without removing the transmission crossmember today on my 94 truck.my fuel lines were not hard or stuck at all. might not be the same on yours tho. i notice i can get to 3k to 4k faster on my auto. if u like fuel all over your arms and face go for it.
Last edited by TOYJZX100; 07-27-2004 at 08:41 PM.
07-28-2004, 02:14 PM
#51
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Just finished mine,
What are we going to do tomorrow
If you put the small wrench on front nut and hold it, Then turn the whole filter by turning the large nut in the rear, You wont have to deal with the limited space in the front.
It took me more time to remove the damn bracket than to remove/instal the filter...
What are we going to do tomorrow
If you put the small wrench on front nut and hold it, Then turn the whole filter by turning the large nut in the rear, You wont have to deal with the limited space in the front.
It took me more time to remove the damn bracket than to remove/instal the filter...
07-29-2004, 05:02 AM
#53
Contributing Member
Mine sat of the workbench for 5 years. I had a shop change it out on a weekend trip one time...Till one of the YotaTech'ers posted the suggestion about lowering one side of the crossmember a few weeks ago. It took me about 20 minutes. But there is almost zero rust underneath mine. Treat the fittings and crossmember bolts with penetrating oil before.
07-29-2004, 01:16 PM
#54
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Originally Posted by grams72
Just finished mine,
What are we going to do tomorrow
If you put the small wrench on front nut and hold it, Then turn the whole filter by turning the large nut in the rear, You wont have to deal with the limited space in the front.
It took me more time to remove the damn bracket than to remove/instal the filter...
What are we going to do tomorrow
If you put the small wrench on front nut and hold it, Then turn the whole filter by turning the large nut in the rear, You wont have to deal with the limited space in the front.
It took me more time to remove the damn bracket than to remove/instal the filter...
07-29-2004, 07:45 PM
#55
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I'm beginning to think it's NOT possible! I've spent the last 2 evenings trying to wrestle this darn filter off and just this evening got one of the bolts to crack loose. The other one absolutely will not budge. I have soaked it in WD40 for 2 hours and tried tubing wrenches, craftsman wrenches, vise grips and good ol muscle power but all I've managed to do is twist and deform both ends of the filter to hell. I think the only way it is going to work is to cut the line and resplice the new filter in. But I'd like everyone's thoughts before doing so. The bolt that won't move is the one towards the front of the truck. Any ideas??? 
07-30-2004, 04:19 AM
#56
Contributing Member
I'll bet yours hasn't been changed before...Or at least in recent history. All the more reason to change it.
1. Put it back together and take it to a trusted mechanic.
2. Drop the crossmember onn that side. I'f you've done that, then put a good jackstand under the tranny and remove the crossmember. I'll bet the WD40 has been working through the night and it might be easier today. Penetrating oil works slowly. You could even shoot it again today several times and try it tomorrow.
1. Put it back together and take it to a trusted mechanic.
2. Drop the crossmember onn that side. I'f you've done that, then put a good jackstand under the tranny and remove the crossmember. I'll bet the WD40 has been working through the night and it might be easier today. Penetrating oil works slowly. You could even shoot it again today several times and try it tomorrow.
07-30-2004, 09:02 PM
#58
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Originally Posted by SD70MAC
I'm beginning to think it's NOT possible! I've spent the last 2 evenings trying to wrestle this darn filter off and just this evening got one of the bolts to crack loose. The other one absolutely will not budge. I have soaked it in WD40 for 2 hours and tried tubing wrenches, craftsman wrenches, vise grips and good ol muscle power but all I've managed to do is twist and deform both ends of the filter to hell. I think the only way it is going to work is to cut the line and resplice the new filter in. But I'd like everyone's thoughts before doing so. The bolt that won't move is the one towards the front of the truck. Any ideas???
WD40 is not going to do it. try to find "PB Blaster" or try Tabasco sauce. No joke! it worked and continues to work for me. Tasty on an oily finger too
Bob
08-21-2004, 08:12 PM
#60
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I finished mine this evening. It wasn't as bad as you all made it seem, just need some muscle and a desire to get high from gas fumes
I let the crossmember drop down, but kept the bolts in it. I took the rear line off first with a 9/16 flare wrench (only thing I had handy) on the line and a 19mm wrench on the filter.
The front line was a little tricky, but not too bad at all. 14mm wrench (found it!) on the line, and the 19mm on the filter to loosen it a bit. Keep the 14mm on the line, then turn the filter with your hand so you don't have to keep moving the wrench.
New filter was a little tight to get in, but I managed. Tightened everything up, my arm was sore, so I did a halfass job and fired the truck up.
Gas sprayed everywhere
*sigh*
Get back under the truck, tighten the line a bit more, fire it up. Success!
The ECU is being reset right now, so I don't know of any difference yet.
On the new filter, throw the bracket in the trash. You don't need it.
I let the crossmember drop down, but kept the bolts in it. I took the rear line off first with a 9/16 flare wrench (only thing I had handy) on the line and a 19mm wrench on the filter.
The front line was a little tricky, but not too bad at all. 14mm wrench (found it!) on the line, and the 19mm on the filter to loosen it a bit. Keep the 14mm on the line, then turn the filter with your hand so you don't have to keep moving the wrench.
New filter was a little tight to get in, but I managed. Tightened everything up, my arm was sore, so I did a halfass job and fired the truck up.
Gas sprayed everywhere
*sigh*
Get back under the truck, tighten the line a bit more, fire it up. Success!
The ECU is being reset right now, so I don't know of any difference yet.
Originally Posted by grams72
It took me more time to remove the damn bracket than to remove/instal the filter...
