Texas_Ace

Ok, I am out changing all my gear oils. (I can?t get the rear diff plug out BTW, any ideas?).

When I got to the transfer case I discovered something bad, it was virtually DRY!!! I just got the truck a few weeks ago and I have only used 4WD a few times. My question is 1: Is it ok? I used it about a week ago and it did work but I thought it was a little rough.

2: what could be leaking? There is a lot of oil at the bottom of the case, it has been leaking for awhile. I hope it is not the gaskect as I don?t want to have to pull the case and do that. Any other ideas? And dose anyone know what the torque on the case bolts is? I am going to re torque them all to see if that is it.

PLEASE HELP QUICK! Thanks!

ADH8796

Sometimes the rear diff drain plug is hard to get off the best way to do it is get a good strong breaker bar and hope you don't break anything.

No real good way to see to see if you messed anything up in the T-case other than pull it and you don't want to do that so put some fluid in it and see how it feels and sounds. It will probably be alright.

4Hummer

Rear output seal is more than likely leaking, Easy Fix. Unbolt the drive shaft, Un bolt the pinnion flange, Remove old gasket, install new toyota seal.

ChickenLover

Just make sure you remove the filler plug first.

Texas_Ace

Yeah, pretty much figured that about the case. I have the rear diff soaking in some PB blaster right now.

That sounds like a possibilty but when looking at where the oil that has been leaking is i found that there is a LOT on the bottom, virtually none on the back-top of the case and a some on the front of the case. Which leads me to think that the leak is more in the front. Anything there that leaks? I just really need the truck tomorrow so i need to get this figured out.

OSU4Runner

I had to used a 2ft breaker bar the first time I did mine and a bunch of PB blaster, make sure you use a 12 point socket too, so you don't strip it

MudHippy

I had all of the oil leak out of the front output shaft seal on mine. The thing was blown so bad that it let muddy water in when I was playin' in a puddle, which my transfer case used for lube for around 1500 miles or so. It required rebuilding by that point. I think yours will be fine with a new seal and oil.

Good luck on that plug, I got one that's never coming off. Some people have welded bolts to them and got them to turn that way, once they're too far stripped.

paxil4x4

12 point

mjwalfredo

I have heard never to use a 12 point. Go with the 6. Can someone back me up?

OSU4Runner

Whats with the

OSU4Runner

I used a 6 point and almost rounded mine off, so I switched to the 12 and she popped right off!

Texas_Ace

What i have always been told and heard was 6 point to not strip but it could be that 12 point will work better. You never know...

Ok, so lets say it is the seals. Just how hard are they to change really? I don't have jackstands that are high enough for this truck so i am pretty much working under the truck. anything that i should know before i start?

I have done most things to cars but pulling a drive shat is one of the few i have not done seeing as i have never had a rear/4wd car before.

mjwalfredo

Here we go: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95095

I thought I read somewhere that a 6 point was better. That's interesting that a 12 point worked better for you guapo....

EDIT: Ok, now that makes sense... sorry about hijacking the thread for a bit....

Texas_Ace

Linky no worky....

And no prob with the hijack, i was about to ask the same thing.

Now if somone could just tell me how hard it really is to change those seals...

MudHippy

No really difficult thing to do, it will take some time though. Here's a link that explains most of the details.

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...eal/index.html

Just substitute the words transfer case front output for pinion. The same procedure is required, minus needing to account for any bearing pre-load which isn't applicable. And there's no breather on the transfer case.

I rebuilt my transfer case myself, and I thought it was going to be way more complicated than it was.

User 051420

Fortunately, you don't really need to lift the vehicle to change those seals.
It's a matter of removing the driveshaft (front, usually), unbolting a "staked" nut, pulling the "companion flange", and replacing the seal.

Follow those links, and feel free to PM me if you need more details. I have a few pics of the job.

Texas_Ace

That doesn't look to bad, if fact it looks to easy. Kinda like the oil seals on the block.

How hard is it to drop the drive shaft? Is it like the rear diff bolts, won't come off no matter what? or is it pretty simple?

YodaPala

I changed my front diff 75w90 last week and couldnt get the sob loose (10mm) allen bit. I ended up using an air hammer. I scored a gouge in strait then I held it an an angle (so it will break ccw) and BAM! it loosened right up.

OSU4Runner

Ya i tried to change my front diff oil about a month ago, I couldn't get the damn thing out, so I finally got pissed and gave up. I'm gonna give it another shot next oil change.

Texas_Ace

Yeah, that front diff plug is in there good as well. I just got back from some other work and am going to give them both another try. We shal see...