waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

You got the cornfeds right? Why the difference in spacer size? And what was that other thing you got...dang it...I can't remember what it was called now...it was like $25 or so.



Brian

ravencr

I got 1.5" cornfed spacers and revtek 1/4" drop spacer for the front, and 2.5" cornfeds for the rear. The $25 piece is the diff drop to recorect the CV angles.

Chris

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

How does that balance out so to speak with a 1" difference from front to back? Just curious?



Brian

ravencr

The 1/4" drop spacer actually results in a 1/2" at the wheel, so the front will have 2" of lift and the rear will have 2.5" of lift. I did this, because if I have any load in the rear, it will sit closed to level. Plus it helps to have the rear a little higher for a tad better departure angle when off-roading.

In addition, I had David at Cornfed make the spacer so I can use it with or without the ruber conical bumper, so if I want to run both the spacer and the conical bumper, I'll actually have 3" of rear lift, so I can run my heavier rear bumper and still sit level or slightly higher in the rear.

Chris

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

kewl!

I still wanna see that rig!

You are talking about fabbing your own bumper? You got access to fab equipment? I do work at a FAB shop and know lots of first class welders, fitters, etc. Maybe we could work something out and get both of us a bumper out of this.



Brian

ravencr

I have no welding skills, but my friend does. It will be a first experience for me, but he knows what he's doing. We won't have a bunch of fancy equipment to make it, just good old common sense, and hopefully just enough equipment to make it right.

I'll be honest, my rear bumper is going to be primarily for function with looks being secondary. It will be painted the same color as my fender flares to blend in, but other than that, that's it. I don't mind doing another one, but to be honest, I don't even know how the first one is going to turn out. I would love to be able to make them and sell them, but I just don't have the time.

Chris

ravencr

Here's some pictures of the 1" body lift installed with my 285's.








With the fender trimming and the 1" RB body lift, I was able to go off-roading with no rubbing at all. I was very happy.

My cornfed spacers came in yesterday, so I'm waiting on my revtek 1/4" drop spacer and OME shocks before I do the install.

Stay tuned!

Chris

YotaFoShow

Can't wait to see it done.

I know that I'm excited about finally getting my suspension lift on my truck. I should have it on here soon.

Chris...VA

turboale

Do you keep your vallence off like that all the time?? Have you had any probs with holes in your radiator or A/T cooler yet? I have already have a rock in my stock fog light when I had my old bumper on, and now I have a crack in one of my Hellas now that I have the TJM on. GRRR

But other than that, looking good! I really need some bigger tires!

ravencr

Thanks guys! I've been riding around with my valence off like that because I'm working on a custom front bumper, and I needed to get some measurements, and didn't feel like putting it back on. I really need to though. No holes yet!

Chris

ravencr

I just got this from Steve for the location of the top mount for the limiting straps attached to the frame. This part needs to be welded, and from what I understand, the piece can easily be made or puchased from Downey.

http://fastq.com/~sschaefer/Downey.pdf

Upper tab dimensions: The tab is 3/16" thick steel but you could use 1/4". It is 2 1/4" long and 1 1/2" wide. The hole is 1/2" and is 1 1/2" from one end and 3/4" from the other. The end that is closer to the hole is completely rounded, the other end is completely flat. Use the Downey instructions for the exact placement. The original pieces were actually made by Rancho and were part of a limiting strap kit. As seen in the Downey instructions the Rancho tab is sort of a boot shape. This tab does not require this shape and both sides can be streight.

Just thought I'd add this information to show what I'm going to be doing real soon. Also, here's another link from Steve's site that has been a big help in showing me what I'm going to be doing real soon, too.

http://fastq.com/~sschaefer/misc.html

Chris

Black4runner97

chris dude everything looks great if u go for that ride in alabama drop me a line been waiting for a feild test of mine.

ravencr

Thanks Johnson! I can't wait to see pictures of your too. I have two videos of my off-roading trips that turned out pretty well, but I can't get the damn things transfered over to the computer. I would love to show everyone.

Chris

ravencr

Well, just in case everyone didn't already know, I had to drill out my front stock endlinks just to get them off, which sucks, because I wanted to use them on the rear, because they are longer than the stock rears which would work really well for the lift in the rear. But, I can't! So, yesterday after 4wheeling, I left the disconnects off while driving home last night and all day today, and I've decided I'm going to take off my addco front swaybar, and use the lars discos on the rear swaybar.

Now, I'm not using the lars discos in the rear to be able to disconnect them, but rather they are longer than stock by about 2.5-3" which is perfect for the lift I'm about to put on. Also, with the front swaybar off or disconnected, it is a much smoother ride, and there is a tad more lean and brake dive, but not much.

I've discovered that if we can figure something out for the rear swaybar to be disconnected, it would be much more beneficial to disconnect the rear addco swaybar, because it really limits the travel, but on the other hand makes the 4runners body roll very little.

So, for now, I'm going to run the stock rear swaybar with the lars discos and no front swaybar at all.

The ride is much smoother and the body roll isn't much more, and I don't have to buy new front swaybar endlinks to put on the rear either. So, I'm getting a better ride and no more money spent. I like it!

Chris

Mad Chemist

Just for clarification, the stock rear swaybar doesn't limit articulaton much at all, but the Addco, which is stiffer, does, right?

ravencr

Correct! The addco reduces wheel travel between 4-5 inches, which as we all know is a huge difference off-roading, and to be honest, just testin mine a long time ago bent the mounts to the axle a tad, which tells me the addco is really stiff.

Chris

P.S. That's in the rear by the way. The front reduces it somewhere between 1-2 inches.

ravencr

Ok, here's the next update. I'm waiting for my OME shocks to come in before I tear the suspension apart again. Today, I painted the cornfed spacers, the diff drop spacers, the revtek 1/4" spacer, the lars disconnects, the ends of the limiting straps, and the panhard drop bracket. The pics didn't come out too good, but you get the idea.








In addition, I took off the front Addco Swaybar and Lars Disconnects. As I mentioned before, I decided to not run the fron swaybar and use the longer Lars Disconnects on the rear. So, after having a heck of a time getting the rear endlinks off, just like another repeat of the front endlinks, I drilled out the swaybar with a 1/2" drill bit, and placed the Lars Discos on the rear. The only other thing I had to do is put thread locking liquid on the threads of the bottom bolt that slides through the swaybar, because the locking nut doesn't make it that far onto the bolt. The Lars Discos are a little too long for stock suspension height, but as soon as the lift goes on, they will be perfect. Plus, I saved some money this way.

Well, that's it for today. Stay Tuned!

Chris

ravencr

Well, there's a slight problem with this spacer combo that I just discovered after recieving the revtek spacers and studs and the cornfed 1.5" spacers.

The cornfed spacers some with bolts that are supposed to be threaded through the metal on the frame, and screwed into the spacer from the top into the spacer.

The revtek spacer has studs that are supposed to be hammered from the bottom upward and through the three holes in the frame and then use the same stock nuts.

So, what to do? Obviously the studs($42 custom made by the way) will not work at all. The only thing I can think to do is buy 1/4-1/2" longer bolts that I can screw downward through the revtek spacer and thread into the cornfed spacer.

What do you guys think?

Chris

Mark in Az

That's what I did.

On your previous painting post....Now sand off the paint on the panhard drop and limiting strap tabs....You don't want those painted before they are welded. My welder would give me a good scolding if I did that

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

then paint. You would not BELIEVE how many times I have heard that working at a fab shop and how many times folks forget it from time to time. I've seen huge things that had been sandblasted, primed and painted have to be entirely re-sandblasted because something else was going to have to be welded on.



Brian