My lift has begun!!
08-19-2003, 09:53 PM
#45
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Originally posted by ravencr
That is really weird! Why would it work on my computer, but not others?
That is really weird! Why would it work on my computer, but not others?
that's pointing to anything. If it's working locally for you, then you may have added a manual record in your local hosts file, or your local DNS is has the reference (because it's readyhosting.com?) but it hasn't been broadcast to the world.
And yes, the pics on apa-writing-format.com are showing up.
08-20-2003, 05:44 PM
#47
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Well, I finished the body lift today! All went great, except Roger sent two bolts that were too short, so I had to go pick them up.
I also did the rear diff breather extension which was also real easy.
I'll have pictures tomorrow when it's light again. The cornfed spacers should be here by the end of this week, along with the revtek 1/4" top out extender.
Stay tuned!
Chris
I also did the rear diff breather extension which was also real easy.
I'll have pictures tomorrow when it's light again. The cornfed spacers should be here by the end of this week, along with the revtek 1/4" top out extender.
Stay tuned!
Chris
08-21-2003, 03:05 AM
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Here's some pictures of the body lift install. I used the directions I received from Roger Brown's web site, and everything went real smooth. The hardest part was the steering column, and I've decidd that instead of loosening the bolt that holds that actual steering arm to the bottom part, loosen the two bolts on the bottom part instead before lifting the body. This way way your steering wheel won't be out of whack when you finish it up. Other than that, everything went real smooth, and it took me about 3.5 hours by myself. If you can follow directions, then you can easily do the Roger Brown 1" body lift. Here's some pics:
This picture is of one of the doorwell mounts from inside the cab.
This is the driver's side bumper bracket. The only thing I'm going to change is take a grinder to the bottom portion of the bumper's bracket so they'll fit above the large washers on the stock screws. Right now the bumper is as high as it can go, and there's not the gap that was there when it was stock. It looks fine though.
This is a picture of how I jacked up the body, which worked out great. The body didn't bend and it was fairly stable.
This is the front of the 4runner with the bumper removed with no spacers installed yet. You'll noticed I've got a loose piece on the passenger side that I need a clip for.
This is a picture of the rear cargo area, and how I got to the two read body mounts. You have to remove the plastic piece that runs from right to left. I also had to pull off the side panels partially to get to the body mount, which are under a larger plastic piece.
This is the rear body mount hole from inside the 4runner.
I needed to remove the little bracket that holds the retractable cargo cover in place, so I could pull the side panel out enough to get to the rear body mounts.
Lastly, this is the passenger's side bumper bracket.
I'll have more pictures of the finished product today, but it will be hard to notice a difference, except in the front, becuase I have a couple of hundred pounds of stuff in the rear of the 4runner right now. I will note that only the passenger side tire rubs on the rear inside part of the fender when turning to the right. Does anyone have any ideas of how to trim the fender, and relocate the screw that holds it in place, because it's right where the tire hits everytime? I took a hammer to the driver's side, and it doesn't rub. I couldn't get the passenger's side to bend in though.
Stay tuned for the Lars disco install, Cornfed spacers install, and Panhard drop bracket install.
Chris
P.S. I also did the rear diff breather extension, which I used the directions from Yotatech's tech pages. It was very easy to do!
This picture is of one of the doorwell mounts from inside the cab.
This is the driver's side bumper bracket. The only thing I'm going to change is take a grinder to the bottom portion of the bumper's bracket so they'll fit above the large washers on the stock screws. Right now the bumper is as high as it can go, and there's not the gap that was there when it was stock. It looks fine though.
This is a picture of how I jacked up the body, which worked out great. The body didn't bend and it was fairly stable.
This is the front of the 4runner with the bumper removed with no spacers installed yet. You'll noticed I've got a loose piece on the passenger side that I need a clip for.
This is a picture of the rear cargo area, and how I got to the two read body mounts. You have to remove the plastic piece that runs from right to left. I also had to pull off the side panels partially to get to the body mount, which are under a larger plastic piece.
This is the rear body mount hole from inside the 4runner.
I needed to remove the little bracket that holds the retractable cargo cover in place, so I could pull the side panel out enough to get to the rear body mounts.
Lastly, this is the passenger's side bumper bracket.
I'll have more pictures of the finished product today, but it will be hard to notice a difference, except in the front, becuase I have a couple of hundred pounds of stuff in the rear of the 4runner right now. I will note that only the passenger side tire rubs on the rear inside part of the fender when turning to the right. Does anyone have any ideas of how to trim the fender, and relocate the screw that holds it in place, because it's right where the tire hits everytime? I took a hammer to the driver's side, and it doesn't rub. I couldn't get the passenger's side to bend in though.
Stay tuned for the Lars disco install, Cornfed spacers install, and Panhard drop bracket install.
Chris
P.S. I also did the rear diff breather extension, which I used the directions from Yotatech's tech pages. It was very easy to do!
Last edited by ravencr; 08-21-2003 at 03:09 AM.
08-22-2003, 05:47 AM
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Lars Disconnect Install
Ok, here's the details on the Lars Swaybar disconnect install. Last night I made sure to fully soak the two bottom bolts in PB Blaster for easy removal today. Yeah right! The way the bolt and nut is designed is the bolt has a allen head in the end of it. So, you have to use an open end wrench and allen key to remove the bolt. All was going well until the stupid allen key hole stripped out. So, the only other alternative was to drillit out, which was not fun, but it did work. I had to do this on both sides, unfortunately. I wanted to reuse them in the rear, but now I'm going to have to buy them from Toyota. I did notice that once they were removed, the flat flange on the opposite side of the frame had flat sides. I guess before trying to drill it out, I would try to get a large pair of vice grips on that side, which is attached to the bolt to hold it in place as you remove the nut.
After removing both stock links, the Lars install was very simple. First you have to drill out the hole on the frame using a 1/2" drill bit. Once that's done, I adjusted the height of the links, an installed them. The directions are very simple and easy to understand, and you don't really need them anyway. Here's some pictures of the finished product:
The pictures aren't great because of the lighting, but they fit perfectly.
I do have a question for everyone though. When I disconnect them for off-roading, do I remove just the bottom pin and let the disconnects dangle, or do I also unscrew the butterfly nut at the top and remove the whole disco?
Stay tuned for more!
Chris
After removing both stock links, the Lars install was very simple. First you have to drill out the hole on the frame using a 1/2" drill bit. Once that's done, I adjusted the height of the links, an installed them. The directions are very simple and easy to understand, and you don't really need them anyway. Here's some pictures of the finished product:
The pictures aren't great because of the lighting, but they fit perfectly.
I do have a question for everyone though. When I disconnect them for off-roading, do I remove just the bottom pin and let the disconnects dangle, or do I also unscrew the butterfly nut at the top and remove the whole disco?
Stay tuned for more!
Chris
08-22-2003, 05:56 AM
#50
Re: Lars Disconnect Install
Originally posted by ravencr
Ok, here's the details on the Lars Swaybar disconnect install. Last night I made sure to fully soak the two bottom bolts in PB Blaster for easy removal today. Yeah right! The way the bolt and nut is designed is the bolt has a allen head in the end of it. So, you have to use an open end wrench and allen key to remove the bolt. All was going well until the stupid allen key hole stripped out. So, the only other alternative was to drillit out, which was not fun, but it did work. I had to do this on both sides, unfortunately. I wanted to reuse them in the rear, but now I'm going to have to buy them from Toyota. I did notice that once they were removed, the flat flange on the opposite side of the frame had flat sides. I guess before trying to drill it out, I would try to get a large pair of vice grips on that side, which is attached to the bolt to hold it in place as you remove the nut.
After removing both stock links, the Lars install was very simple. First you have to drill out the hole on the frame using a 1/2" drill bit. Once that's done, I adjusted the height of the links, an installed them. The directions are very simple and easy to understand, and you don't really need them anyway. Here's some pictures of the finished product:
The pictures aren't great because of the lighting, but they fit perfectly.
I do have a question for everyone though. When I disconnect them for off-roading, do I remove just the bottom pin and let the disconnects dangle, or do I also unscrew the butterfly nut at the top and remove the whole disco?
Stay tuned for more!
Chris
Ok, here's the details on the Lars Swaybar disconnect install. Last night I made sure to fully soak the two bottom bolts in PB Blaster for easy removal today. Yeah right! The way the bolt and nut is designed is the bolt has a allen head in the end of it. So, you have to use an open end wrench and allen key to remove the bolt. All was going well until the stupid allen key hole stripped out. So, the only other alternative was to drillit out, which was not fun, but it did work. I had to do this on both sides, unfortunately. I wanted to reuse them in the rear, but now I'm going to have to buy them from Toyota. I did notice that once they were removed, the flat flange on the opposite side of the frame had flat sides. I guess before trying to drill it out, I would try to get a large pair of vice grips on that side, which is attached to the bolt to hold it in place as you remove the nut.
After removing both stock links, the Lars install was very simple. First you have to drill out the hole on the frame using a 1/2" drill bit. Once that's done, I adjusted the height of the links, an installed them. The directions are very simple and easy to understand, and you don't really need them anyway. Here's some pictures of the finished product:
The pictures aren't great because of the lighting, but they fit perfectly.
I do have a question for everyone though. When I disconnect them for off-roading, do I remove just the bottom pin and let the disconnects dangle, or do I also unscrew the butterfly nut at the top and remove the whole disco?
Stay tuned for more!
Chris
Brian
08-22-2003, 06:34 AM
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They are the silver things in the picture. They replace the stock swaybar end links which are fixed length, and are hard to remove as noted by my removal procedure. The purpose of the Lars disconnects is when you go off-roading, you want the maximum amount of wheel travel possible. The stock swaybar and the addco swaybars (especially) limit this travel. So, by disconnecting them before you hit the trails takes the swaybar out of the equation and you get maximum travel.
Chris
Chris
08-24-2003, 08:01 AM
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Ok, the next project I did was the fender trimming. Obviously, with only 1" body lift, I was going to run with 285's. I thought now would be a good time to do it, since the spacer lift wasn't installed yet, and I could squash the tires up into the fenders without much effort to see where it was rubbing. Here's the items we used to do the fender trimming, and it worked out great:
1) 5 lb hammer
2) Regular Hammer
3) Razor Knife
4) Coping Saw or small hack saw
Ok, so here's what we did. I disconnected the swaybars so I could get maximum articulation. I then backed up onto one ramp at a time with the wheel turned hard to the left for the driver's side tire, and hard to the right for the passenger's side tire. I knew it was going to rub, but I wanted to see where first. Well, that was easy: Everywhere it was rubbing basically. So, here's what we did. It's a little dirty, because we just had to test out our work last night at a trail we hadn't been to in a long time. Here's the first one:
In this shot you can see where we trimmed and used the hammer to knock back the metal lip and made it smooth. In addition the line on the left indicates where the metal bracket is that we bent back towards the rear of the vehicle too. Right obove the metal bracket where the circle is, we knocked that back, because with the swaybar off, it rubbed there too. The circle above that was rubbing, so we knocked it back in too. The finished product resulted with absolutely no rubbing even with just the 1" body lift.
Here's the passenger side. You'll notice the orangish looking stuff. That's where we knocked in the metal body and that's the undercoating foam peeling off.
Here's another shot of the driver's side:
Here's another shot of the passenger side:
And, here's the last picture of the passenger side:
And, here's some pictures of where I used zip ties to hold up the water tank for the windshield washer:
And here's where I zip tied up the plastic on the driver's side:
So, there it is! With this modification you can actually run 285's without any rubbing with just a 1" body lift. I figured that I had to do this regardless of the lift simply because when the suspenson compresses, it's up in the fender anyway, and it was going to rub even with the additional lift.
The only thing I've got to do now is take a grinder and smooth things out a tad, then paint it with a coat of rustoleum, and then a can of undercoating spray of some sort.
Stay tuned for the next update: Cornfed Spacers Install!!
Chris
1) 5 lb hammer
2) Regular Hammer
3) Razor Knife
4) Coping Saw or small hack saw
Ok, so here's what we did. I disconnected the swaybars so I could get maximum articulation. I then backed up onto one ramp at a time with the wheel turned hard to the left for the driver's side tire, and hard to the right for the passenger's side tire. I knew it was going to rub, but I wanted to see where first. Well, that was easy: Everywhere it was rubbing basically. So, here's what we did. It's a little dirty, because we just had to test out our work last night at a trail we hadn't been to in a long time. Here's the first one:
In this shot you can see where we trimmed and used the hammer to knock back the metal lip and made it smooth. In addition the line on the left indicates where the metal bracket is that we bent back towards the rear of the vehicle too. Right obove the metal bracket where the circle is, we knocked that back, because with the swaybar off, it rubbed there too. The circle above that was rubbing, so we knocked it back in too. The finished product resulted with absolutely no rubbing even with just the 1" body lift.
Here's the passenger side. You'll notice the orangish looking stuff. That's where we knocked in the metal body and that's the undercoating foam peeling off.
Here's another shot of the driver's side:
Here's another shot of the passenger side:
And, here's the last picture of the passenger side:
And, here's some pictures of where I used zip ties to hold up the water tank for the windshield washer:
And here's where I zip tied up the plastic on the driver's side:
So, there it is! With this modification you can actually run 285's without any rubbing with just a 1" body lift. I figured that I had to do this regardless of the lift simply because when the suspenson compresses, it's up in the fender anyway, and it was going to rub even with the additional lift.
The only thing I've got to do now is take a grinder and smooth things out a tad, then paint it with a coat of rustoleum, and then a can of undercoating spray of some sort.
Stay tuned for the next update: Cornfed Spacers Install!!
Chris
08-25-2003, 05:34 AM
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Today I recieve my Cornfed Spacers, and I had planned to have a great off-roading video for everyone to see how the 4runner did yesterday with only fender trimming and a 1" body lift. I was very impressed, and I have to say the rear e-locker is the best thing ever. Tonight, if everything goes as planned, and I received the Revtek Top Spacer and Cornfed spacers, I'll be installing them late tonight.
Chris
Chris
08-25-2003, 05:41 AM
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Don't know about the state line, but from you Mapquest tells me about 315 miles. What do you have in mind?? A little off-roading trip?? I've never been to Alabama, just through it.
Chris
Chris
08-25-2003, 05:45 AM
#56
Seeing your rig...
I have just done my 2" RB body lift, but I need some more clearance for my tires, some minor rubbing, and just wanted to look at your setup once it is finished. I do want to get some custom bumpers on down the road, the rear one first, so I don't want to cut cost to have it bite me in the 
on down the road.
Maybe some time in the future we could plan a meeting. Bamachem lives in Bham, I saw him this weekend as he helped me with some touch-up paint on some small rust spots.
Just a thought...the rig is looking NICE
!!!
Keep it up and keep us posted!
I am really interested in your setup and how it works out!
Brian
on down the road.Maybe some time in the future we could plan a meeting. Bamachem lives in Bham, I saw him this weekend as he helped me with some touch-up paint on some small rust spots.
Just a thought...the rig is looking NICE
!!!Keep it up and keep us posted!
I am really interested in your setup and how it works out!
Brian
08-25-2003, 05:48 AM
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Brian, read my thread about fender trimming, and you won't have a problem at all with tire rubbing: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...threadid=16315
Remember, I no longer have any rubbing, and right now I've only got the 1" RB body lift installed.
Do you know of any trails at the halfway point somewhere? Maybe we could get a small group of yotatech members up for an off-roading trip.
Chris
Remember, I no longer have any rubbing, and right now I've only got the 1" RB body lift installed.
Do you know of any trails at the halfway point somewhere? Maybe we could get a small group of yotatech members up for an off-roading trip.
Chris
08-25-2003, 07:37 AM
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Well, I broke down and went ahead and ordered the OME shocks, since I have to take the front shock apart. So here's what I put on the old credit card today:
1) 2 OMEN86 Rear Firm Shocks
2) 2 OMEN91S Front Firm Shocks
This way, I can use the Mastercraft limiting straps that I've already recieved, plus get more articulation.
The total with shipping was $334.26! So I'll probably disassemble the front end, and go ahead and do the rear spacers. I'll have to wait until I get the shocks to reassemble the front end.
Chris
1) 2 OMEN86 Rear Firm Shocks
2) 2 OMEN91S Front Firm Shocks
This way, I can use the Mastercraft limiting straps that I've already recieved, plus get more articulation.
The total with shipping was $334.26! So I'll probably disassemble the front end, and go ahead and do the rear spacers. I'll have to wait until I get the shocks to reassemble the front end.
Chris
