Manual Hub Kit for $700 ??? Would you buy it ???
#101
Originally Posted by Flygtenstein
It always makes me laugh when people gripe about prices on things they do not have.
Marmot has them, Schaefer has them, Hunt has them, Jim has them. Yup, you are right, must be worthless.
The thing not yet mentioned is Jim has the Aisin hubs. Much lower profile, much stronger hub, less turn to lock, stock cone washers are still used. Yeah, manual hubs are a waste, especially doing it this way instead of in the kit.
Marmot has them, Schaefer has them, Hunt has them, Jim has them. Yup, you are right, must be worthless.
The thing not yet mentioned is Jim has the Aisin hubs. Much lower profile, much stronger hub, less turn to lock, stock cone washers are still used. Yeah, manual hubs are a waste, especially doing it this way instead of in the kit.
LOL anyway, that's NOT what I said and DEFINITELY not what I meant. What I MEANT by that is if it's JUST to reduce wear, then I don't see the point. If it's solely (or mostly) for the ability to isolate a broken shaft on the trail, then I totally see the point and I'm sure that after changing ONLY ONE on the trail then I'd WANT to go manual as well. I don't have a locker up front, so hubs wouldn't help me anyway EXCEPT to reduce wear and to improve mileage slightly, so for MY PURPOSES, they are not something I have on my to-do list.
Not trying to be an ass here, just clarifying my point and my reasoning while I'm scratching my head wondering why Brian is wanting to do this before he has a rear locker, much less a front one. Like Jim said, that money should be spent FIRST on other stuff, then on the hub conversion. There's some logic to that order that is hard to argue with.
Last edited by bamachem; 07-06-2004 at 07:54 PM.
#102
Originally Posted by dragr1
You still running 3.90's with the 285's?
#105
Brakes
Originally Posted by Albuquerque Jim
I just thought of something...
If your brakes are the same as a Taco you could just run the Taco spindles "as is" and just deal without ABS...
I know the guys who have SAS'd Tacos just cut off the wires and deal with the ABS light on the dash.
OR
If you want to really do it right (since you have larger than stock wheels and tires), find a donor 4Runner with the bigger 13" brakes and a Taco with Manual Hubs and use the big brakes and the maunal hubs. The you'll have done a nice upgrade.
Just a few other options to consider.
If your brakes are the same as a Taco you could just run the Taco spindles "as is" and just deal without ABS...
I know the guys who have SAS'd Tacos just cut off the wires and deal with the ABS light on the dash.
OR
If you want to really do it right (since you have larger than stock wheels and tires), find a donor 4Runner with the bigger 13" brakes and a Taco with Manual Hubs and use the big brakes and the maunal hubs. The you'll have done a nice upgrade.
Just a few other options to consider.
Originally Posted by sschaefer3
Your gas milage must be horrid. No kidding.
Originally Posted by bamachem
Not trying to be an goat herder here, just clarifying my point and my reasoning while I'm scratching my head wondering why Brian is wanting to do this before he has a rear locker, much less a front one. Like Jim said, that money should be spent FIRST on other stuff, then on the hub conversion. There's some logic to that order that is hard to argue with.
#106
All at once? Still dreaming of hitting the LOTTO, heh? Actually, it doesn't have to sit for the gearing, since you can pick up a cheap set of housings and have your new gears installed in them, then swap the front diff and rear third. That would give you MAYBE a day of down time. The manual hub swap is going to definitely throw a kink in that and add several days to the job for sure.
At least you're planning ahead...
At least you're planning ahead...
#107
Registered User
BamaChem says: Wow. $1200 to know that you won't wear out CV's that are $80/side with a lifetime warranty... but I just don't see the justification for $1200. I don't see the justification for $900 either.
For clarity, that is what I was responding too. I my opinion, this is one of those things that people often write off as worthless and too expensive without seeing the gain. If it is worthless, than it is too expensive.
I know you have them too Steve. I just mentioned Jim having them this way based on doing what you are outlining rather than you using the ORS kit and swapping to better parts later.
Brian, one week down to get it all done? Good luck with that.
For clarity, that is what I was responding too. I my opinion, this is one of those things that people often write off as worthless and too expensive without seeing the gain. If it is worthless, than it is too expensive.
I know you have them too Steve. I just mentioned Jim having them this way based on doing what you are outlining rather than you using the ORS kit and swapping to better parts later.
Brian, one week down to get it all done? Good luck with that.
#108
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Full Float VS Semi Float.
I will not be stuck on a trail broke down. You can drive a manual hub 4Runner not only with the axles removed, but the entire front diff as well. If you drive an ADD 4Runner with the outter CV removed you will destroy the bearing within the first few hundred feet. To me that is worth it as well as the extra strength. Just another "invisable" non-cool mod.
Pass on it if semi-float works for you. Just that simple.
Stock axles are strong, Chromoly axles are stronger.
I will not be stuck on a trail broke down. You can drive a manual hub 4Runner not only with the axles removed, but the entire front diff as well. If you drive an ADD 4Runner with the outter CV removed you will destroy the bearing within the first few hundred feet. To me that is worth it as well as the extra strength. Just another "invisable" non-cool mod.
Pass on it if semi-float works for you. Just that simple.
Stock axles are strong, Chromoly axles are stronger.
Last edited by sschaefer3; 07-07-2004 at 08:34 PM.
#110
Originally Posted by Flygtenstein
BamaChem says: Wow. $1200 to know that you won't wear out CV's that are $80/side with a lifetime warranty... but I just don't see the justification for $1200. I don't see the justification for $900 either.
Anyway, no harm done.
Last edited by bamachem; 07-08-2004 at 04:31 AM.
#111
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Originally Posted by Flygtenstein
Brian, one week down to get it all done? Good luck with that.
Originally Posted by bamachem
you can pick up a cheap set of housings and have your new gears installed in them,
Last edited by keisur; 07-09-2004 at 09:30 PM.
#112
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So I know this thread is old...if I have a Tacoma with ADD, rather than a 4runner, and I want (someday) to convert to manual hubs, is the process somewhat simpler for me, in that there is less labor because I don't have ABS to start with, and, I imagine, my rotors are probably the same size as on a reg cab taoma?
Its late here, if this questions makes no sense, I apologize
Its late here, if this questions makes no sense, I apologize
#113
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Originally Posted by ianshoots
So I know this thread is old...if I have a Tacoma with ADD, rather than a 4runner, and I want (someday) to convert to manual hubs, is the process somewhat simpler for me, in that there is less labor because I don't have ABS to start with, and, I imagine, my rotors are probably the same size as on a reg cab taoma?
Its late here, if this questions makes no sense, I apologize
Its late here, if this questions makes no sense, I apologize
The exception being if you have the smaller brakes and find junk with good bearings and the smaller brakes.
The real factor is of the "junk" still has good unbent backing plates.
#114
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Thanks steve, I guess the trick is just to keep an eye out for one thats been smacked in the rear (recently). No big hurry, just one more thing for me to think about for the future.
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