tc

No - I think he made a glancing blow at best. I think people are mixing things up here.

YES - both CV joints are spinning, BUT the differential is disconnected on one side (passenger IIRC). The side still connected (driver's I think) spins the shaft to the transfer case, which is not connected to the shaft.

Do a search for ADD looking for a post by Flamed4x4 - he explains it in great depth.

Long story short, with a locker in the front with the lever in 2HI, you will still have full differential action in the front and NOT FEEL THE LOCKER.

The concern is that when you engage 4WD on slick surfaces, you do not have enough torque to ratchet the locker and therefore have NO differential action in the front, which leads to very poor handling. One solution to this problem is to convert to manual hubs and only lock one side (so you only have 3WD).

Not sure what the newer model 4Runner hubs are like, but on the older ones, changing to manual hubs is a piece of cake. I hear it's a real PITA on Taco's though, so it may be bad on newer 4Runners too.

There are a few people on here running TruTrac in the back, locker in front (Marko I think?) ... wish they would chime in...

Napoleon047

with the ADD and an open diff, the driver side axle is spinning the spider gears in the diff, but the ring gear and pinion (and thus the driveshaft) do not spin because the passenger side axle is disconnected.

if you leave the ADD intact and put a lunchbox up front, the driver side axle shaft will spin but the diff will not, thus causing the locker to be in a constant state of ratcheting, which you will hear, and will wear out the locker

if you disable the ADD and tie both axle shafts together permanantly, you can put a lunchbox up front and it will unlock around corners. the only downside is that your R&p would now be spinning as well along with the driveshaft. if everything up front is in good shape and the d-shaft is balanced, there wont be any probs. i wheel with some jeepers who have this setup and it is invisible on the street.

yoda-g2

How mush PSI do the ARB's need? I have a compressor form an airbag suspension kit that would probably do the job. 120 PSI I beleive. Has guages, auto turn on, etc.

JHupp

80-90, so 120psi shoudl do it. Did you mount this up under the hood in front, it deosnt appear that I have very much room, but I should be able to locate a spot. If you get a chance, e-mail me some pics, my e-mail is above my avatar, or hit me up on AIM, my screename is PQJ. Also, let me know how mcuh you want for it. Thanks,
Jason

tc

I don't understand. If the passenger side axle is disconnected, what applies the force to overcome the springs and ratchet the locker? IMHO, both "sides" of the locker will spin at the same speed as the driver's side axle, and the passenger side axle will spin at whatever speed it needs to separately. Since the "open" action of the diff is not there anymore, I guess the driveshaft might turn, but since it's not connected to anything in the transfer case when in 2WD, it won't matter (just like your example below).


OK - this part I understand. The differential speed of the tires results in a torque in the locker that causes it to ratchet around corners, everything spins the same speed when going straight. Since the "open" action is gone, the driveshaft has to turn.

ebelen1

Why not wait for the compressor. You've already paid him $200, which he'll credit you on the ARB. Buy the ARB since this is what you want, use the $200 credit, and wait for a compressor until you decide on the install. My biggest priority, if I were you, is to not lose my $200.

Napoleon047

assuming the front diff is set up correctly, the pinion and carrier preload is enough force to cause the diff to stay stationary and the locker ratchet.

ecchamberlin

I do not usually like to buy parts from 4Wheel Parts but They often have ARB lockers sales that they will throw the compressor in for free. Not sure it you have to have them install to get the deal but would be worth looking into it to save $200.

As far as the front locker thing goes. If this was a better idea over the rear lockers that Toyota has been istalling now for a few years it seems like they would be doing it IMO.

tc

Just saw this in this month's Off Road Adventures. Free compressor and $25 off install if you buy Front and Rear ARB's

EDIT: Went over to the local 4WP this afternoon. Turns out basically the same price as TRDParts4U (Toyota of Dallas). I would order from Phil (StrapR22) - they have a much better track record on here!

yoda-g2

I didn't want to clutter this thread anymore, sent you a PM.

JHupp

Ok, here is where I am at right now. I recieved my body lift in the mail the other day which means I will be going with bigger tires soon, 285/75 or 295/75 which means I will have to re-gear. I hav a lock-right on order, so failing all else, I will install it, and re-gear at the same time. The ARB is out of the question, it is going to be too expensive. I am currently looking for a rear axle, and differential for an e-locked 4runner in local scrap yards. I will begin my search on Monday and swap in the entire axle if I can pick one up for under $700 in decent shape. So my newest questions are 1- Does anyone remeber the site that sold e-lockedrs and the housing, and also had a wiring kit that did not need the ecu, it was like a direct wiring kit with a few relays? and 2-; What model 4runner should I be looking for with an e-locker to get a differential with 4:30 gears installed. Thanks again, and I apologize once again for my indeciseivness.

tc

both marlincrawler and inchworm sell set up elocker thirds. Pretty spendy though...

JHupp

yeah, Iwould just buy the wiring kit from them, instead of going through the trouble of taking out an ecu, etc. etc. from a wrecked runner. I will start my search for an entire axle from an e-locked 3rd gen 4runner on Monday at salvage yards in NJ. Only trying to spend about 600 total, and hopefully I will be able to dump my original axle somewhere, maybe they might buy it back or something.

tc

There is also the manual activation cable from downey - then you don't have to mess with the electrics.

JHupp

yeah, I saw that too, I have not seen one in action, but I would like to try the electronics first. It is one of the few things I am good at. I wired up my subs, head unit, electronic brake controller, etc. I was originally going to be an electrical engineer, but have since changed majors 101 times. Thee electroniocs don't scare me too too much, and it seems I can pick up all the electronics for about $100, depending on how much the entire rear axle runs me though, I may go with this to save some money.If anyone has any experience with it, I would love to hear about it, I guess its operation is similar to my gas door(well maybe a little more complex) I really just want the little RR Diff Lock switch on my dash, I think it looks cool. (I also need a rear locker for wheelin too)

bob200587

I think getting the whole rear axle would be tough. Why not just modify yours? I haven't done it but from what I can tell tracing the outline of the E-locker third member gasket and taking a angle grinder to it would be all it would take. Then just put the E-locker third on there and hook it up. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/diff/pickup_diff.htm

I'd get the harness, gaskets and studs from Marlin, Then all you will need to do is get the 3rd member and maybe the RR Diff lock switch if you really want it. I think that would be pretty cool myself.

Bighead

It's only that easy if he has the e-locker wiring already installed from the factory. In my opinion going ARB RD23 in the rear is easier than an e-locker retrofit.

Alot of the pictures are gone but this link is to Phong's e-locker retrofit write-up.

JHupp

yes, I know the ARB is easier, but much more expensive. If I could pick up a whole rear axle from and e-locked runner, I would only pay about $100 for the wring from inchworm.com, Depending on the axle price, I think it will be much cheaper than the $900 price tage of an arb locker with compressor. I don't mind doing the work either, my buddy from TTORA said it would take about a day to swap the axles, and wire it all up. I would not add the ecu, all I would need in the way of wiring is the kit from inchworm, the harness, and factory switch. Looking to drop about $600 and a good days worth of work total. And considering it is hard to get $300 for a dya's worth of work, especially doing something you like. I have allready saved money vs. the ARB. Although, I maye be missing something here, so let me know, as usual, I am wrong a lot.

bob200587

I also don't like the idea of relying on air to keep my locker engaged, theres way too many things that could go wrong with that. I wish they had Ox lockers for toyota 3rd members. Those are completely manual. its turned on and off by a wire cable.

Mr. Bob

I would say if you can find just a 3rd member, modify your housing... I did one a few months back and it was not really all that bad... we had to grind the stock housing, drill some new holes, tap them, and get some longer studs... We did it in about 3 hours without wiring...

As for wiring, I did a complete custom wiring job. If you are electronically minded then its not bad and WAY cheaper than $100... more like $20... I installed 3 LEDs with the switch too, locked, locking, and unlocking.... looks really slick, and works just as well... If you are interseted, I can prabably dig out that diagram and Email it to you if you are interested... let me know

Cheers
Bob