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Old 07-07-2008, 08:23 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Elton View Post
sawzall
Didn't have a sawzall either so I used a drill with a cutting wheel attached took about 20 min. for each one but they snapped right off.
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Old 07-07-2008, 06:05 PM   #27 (permalink)
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I used a flex end GearWrench on top & a pipe wrench on the metal dust cover. The GearWrench allows an allen key to tighten the top if you are installing Bilsteins. Big pain in the butt!!!

Paul
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Old 07-07-2008, 06:17 PM   #28 (permalink)
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By the way, your rear sway is going to fall off
Yep, i broke that mount, and now the sway is totally gone. The front is going off sometime soon.
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Old 07-08-2008, 10:44 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by pattycakes77 View Post
...had to be contortionists to get in there... it does involve some twisting and maybe some odd yoga poses
My skinny arms were able to form an 'X' at some point, at times just getting them past the sway bar, stabilizers, and other junk they would bend at humanly impossible angles. My fingers are not that long so I'm using my fingertips to create any torque to break off the seized nuts on the top shock mount. That and trying to squeeze my hand through any viable space to hold a measly little crescent wrench. Excellent forearm workout.
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seized, stripped or broken, impossible access to hard-to-reach places, discovering I don't have the tool/part needed to finish the job, in the middle of the job....PRICELESS & worth it all once achieved!
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Old 07-08-2008, 11:11 PM   #30 (permalink)
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[quote=kmcaprice14;50867477] skip all the steps... just go straight to cutting it off...As for torquing the nuts, just hand tight using a small socket wrench with a deep socket... QUOTE]

Well, it was 1130PM when I had finally finished removal/installation. The fact that you can't see the top shock mount practically had me feeling my whole way through, so it didn't matter whether I had sun or not, screw it.

I'm stubborn and decided to go against the popular recommendation of destructive removals and got me some Craftsman strap wrenches. Low and behold...made it all possible to take off the old POS without damaging the housing. Someone earlier on this post 'wedged' one of the wrenches...that's what I did with the strap wrench against the muffler on the passenger side and the fuel tank on the opposite. Miracles do happen Worked so well that when I did the next rear side, I didn't use as much PB prior and still found it easier to break the seized nutcase.

Torquing the top nut, uh, yah, couldn't . Took a 3/8" breaker bar with a crow's foot attachment and with the other hand used a cresent wrench to grip that super small stud - slow as hell.
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seized, stripped or broken, impossible access to hard-to-reach places, discovering I don't have the tool/part needed to finish the job, in the middle of the job....PRICELESS & worth it all once achieved!

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Old 07-09-2008, 07:04 AM   #31 (permalink)
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I'm not so sure that is safe. The design Toyota uses is meant to pivot in more directions than the classic eye shocks can pivot. Maybe it's fine, but it looks like you've got a rigid mount where the adapter mates to the stock shock mount. That could be putting a lot of unplanned for forces on that shock mount area.

I will say that removing the rear shocks has got to be the worst job I've done on the 4Runner to date. First, I used a cut-off wheel and sliced into the fluid reservoir. Yuck! The sawzall did me right in the end and the second shock came off nice and quick.

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x2! With the coil spring suspension setup we have, your shock is supposed to be able to pivot front to back as well as side to side. You will be stressing your shock and mount more the way you have it set up when you do any serious articulation. Will it break? Maybe not... but maybe it will, or maybe your shocks will not last as long, who knows? Only time will tell.
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