Check engine light on '00 4Runner SR5?

stangman39 · 06-17-2006, 06:52 PM

Hi all,

Just got my "new" '00 SR5 today delivered from the dealership in Texas. Overall really please with the 4Runner...only saw a bunch of pics online b4 delivery.

Has just over 82K miles on it. Don't think the timing belt has been changed yet.

Drove about 25miles on the highway today after taking delivery. Filled it up with gas, drove another 25miles on the highway. Parked, helped my g/f move and then drove about 15miles on the highway and got off onto local roads. Then the check engine light comes on!! No change in the way the 4Runner is driving or acting. Idling and accelerating everything sounds normal.

Any thought or comments? What should I do? Take it to the local dealer and have them run codes? Am I possible doing any major damage driving it w/the light on?

Kinda bummed this happened after just getting it!

Thanks for the thoughts,
Mike

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Midget96 · 06-17-2006, 07:06 PM

Either take it to an autoparts store to pull the code or disconnect the negative battery cable, wait about 20-30sec., then reconnect and start the truck. See if the light comes back on...

If you bought it from a dealership, sometimes vital parts can get wet when they detail the engine bay, or even the body shine they hose it with after can screw stuff up resulting in an intermittent CEL.

WHORERUNNER · 06-17-2006, 10:05 PM

you mentioned you put gas, maybe you didn't tighten the gas cap enough. Double check.

humanoid · 06-17-2006, 11:53 PM

Yeah, double check that the gas cap is on correctly. If you still get the CEL after checking, try resetting the CEL or take your rig to AutoZone and have them pull the code for you. Once you find what the code is we can help you out better.

DoubleZero4x4 · 06-18-2006, 02:50 AM

Double ditto on those last 2 posts...had the same problem once about 30 miles after a fill-up.

kcebes · 06-18-2006, 08:12 AM

Go to autozone or the equivalent there, they will usually pull the code for free. Post the code here.

I recently had a check engine light. It was the MAF sensor. All fixed now. Not much goes wrong with these vehicles from what I can tell. MAF's, O2 sensors

MTL_4runner · 06-18-2006, 08:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kcebes

Go to autozone or the equivalent there, they will usually pull the code for free. Post the code here.

Ditto on that advice.

HUTCHSTACO · 06-18-2006, 10:58 AM

i assume u did not puy disel in it, but was it cheap gas, if the old owner used primium nad u pu regular cheap gas it can set off a cel

marko3xl3 · 06-18-2006, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HUTCHSTACO

i assume u did not puy disel in it, but was it cheap gas, if the old owner used primium nad u pu regular cheap gas it can set off a cel

That won't set off a CEL. The only way switching from 91 -> 87 would cause a CEL is if there was a problem with 87 that 91 fixed (knocking).

If you put 85 in there (which some areas still sell) then yes, you might encounter some orange light problems.

hbar314 · 06-18-2006, 02:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kcebes

Go to autozone or the equivalent there, they will usually pull the code for free. Post the code here.

I recently had a check engine light. It was the MAF sensor. All fixed now. Not much goes wrong with these vehicles from what I can tell. MAF's, O2 sensors

Sorry to hijack but where did you buy your MAF sensor and how much did it run you?

stangman39 · 06-18-2006, 07:07 PM

Update all...

Thanks for all the tips.
Last night I did disconnect the neg battery cable, let it sit for a few mins and then put back on. CEL went away. Drove it about 25 miles today and the light came back on. Did the neg cable unplug again...CEL off. Came back on in 20-30miles range. Drove another 15miles or so with it on and then after next start up it was off. Now it is back on!
I did put 87 octane in but have no clue what the previous owner used.
I'll take it to try to get the codes pulled tomorrow.
Overall tho it is driving great.

Thanks,
Mike

Rick F. · 06-19-2006, 05:38 AM

The Autozones here in PA will pull the code for free. Find a local joint that'll do the same and post the code. I doubt you're doing any damage to the vehicle as most of the codes are rather benign. You may or may not even notice any change in the vehicle's driveability.

Once you post the code, it could be as simple as cleaning the MAF (which is a very common CEL).

BOSTON4RUNNER · 06-19-2006, 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stangman39

Hi all,

Just got my "new" '00 SR5 today delivered from the dealership in Texas. Overall really please with the 4Runner...only saw a bunch of pics online b4 delivery.

Has just over 82K miles on it. Don't think the timing belt has been changed yet.

Drove about 25miles on the highway today after taking delivery. Filled it up with gas, drove another 25miles on the highway. Parked, helped my g/f move and then drove about 15miles on the highway and got off onto local roads. Then the check engine light comes on!! No change in the way the 4Runner is driving or acting. Idling and accelerating everything sounds normal.

Any thought or comments? What should I do? Take it to the local dealer and have them run codes? Am I possible doing any major damage driving it w/the light on?

Kinda bummed this happened after just getting it!

Thanks for the thoughts,
Mike

spend the 25 bucks and buy an OBD 2 scanner from a parts store, used it to get this code, and keep it for the future

if it runs good still,,,,I am betting O2 sensor,,or,,Evap cannister

stangman39 · 06-19-2006, 11:37 AM

Got a scanner...was a bit more then $25 but that's ok.

Pulled the codes. Said there were 2. One was "172" which in my book says ""System Too Rich (Bank 1)". I erased it and the CEL went out. The other code was "172 Pending" Not sure what the pending part means. I guess I'll see when the CEL comes back on. Should I do anything about the too rich code?

Thanks,
Mike

Rick F. · 06-20-2006, 06:44 AM

That would be "P0172". Do a forum search. I recall this as a common CEL code but can't recall what the fix is...

MTL_4runner · 06-20-2006, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stangman39

Got a scanner...was a bit more then $25 but that's ok.

Pulled the codes. Said there were 2. One was "172" which in my book says ""System Too Rich (Bank 1)". I erased it and the CEL went out. The other code was "172 Pending" Not sure what the pending part means. I guess I'll see when the CEL comes back on. Should I do anything about the too rich code?

Thanks,
Mike

Pending means the system has seen the conditions which would trigger the code but it must be seen 3 times to actually throw a CEL (so when a code is pending, the ECU is basically counting).

Few threads for you to read on that:
http://yotatech.com/search.php?searchid=1854421

Doug S. · 06-20-2006, 08:59 PM

Sounds like an easy fix. The MAF sensor is dirty and requires cleaning. I have used QD Electrical parts cleaner. You first have to remove the Maf sensor and be really careful with this thing. A couple of short bursts from the aerosol spray on the sensor, reinstall and the codes go away!!!!

stangman39 · 06-21-2006, 04:20 AM

I'm gonna try to clean the MAF today.
I've noticed a bit of a jumpy idle in the morning too so hope it solves that also.

Mike

stangman39 · 06-21-2006, 09:34 AM

Well, tried to go remove the MAF sensor and I was able to get the top screw out but the bottom bolt...the head is stripped pretty good and I can't get any type of screwdriver in there to turn it! Unless I can figure out some way to get it out I may need to take the top bolt out and just break the sensor around the screw and take the screw out w/pliers...and get a new sensor. What do they run from the dealer?

Also noticed the front clips of my air cleaner box were not clipped shut.

Mike

MTL_4runner · 06-21-2006, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stangman39

Well, tried to go remove the MAF sensor and I was able to get the top screw out but the bottom bolt...the head is stripped pretty good and I can't get any type of screwdriver in there to turn it! Unless I can figure out some way to get it out I may need to take the top bolt out and just break the sensor around the screw and take the screw out w/pliers...and get a new sensor. What do they run from the dealer?

Also noticed the front clips of my air cleaner box were not clipped shut.

Mike

In that case the best way to get it off is to use a drill to drill off the head of the screw, remove the sensor and use a pair of pliers to remove the remaining portion.

stangman39 · 06-21-2006, 09:55 AM

So just use a drill bit and drill thru the head of the screw? I assume go to the dealer for a new sensor?

Thanks,
Mike

MTL_4runner · 06-21-2006, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stangman39

So just use a drill bit and drill thru the head of the screw? I assume go to the dealer for a new sensor?

Thanks,
Mike

Yep, just drill far enough that the head of the screw comes off (3/16" or 1/4" bit works well).

You can either get one from the dealer or online from one of these guys:
http://yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=88539

stangman39 · 06-23-2006, 11:09 AM

Went to the dealer today and got what I think is the correct MAF sensor/meter. It is part # 22204-07010

They didn't have new screws for mounting it. Does anyone what type of screw I need since one of my is stripped? I may be able to just clean the old sensor once I get it off and can return the new one.

Thanks,
Mike

MTL_4runner · 06-23-2006, 04:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stangman39

Went to the dealer today and got what I think is the correct MAF sensor/meter. It is part # 22204-07010

They didn't have new screws for mounting it. Does anyone what type of screw I need since one of my is stripped? I may be able to just clean the old sensor once I get it off and can return the new one.

Thanks,
Mike

The dealer should have those screws in stock for you (they are a standard metric screw, can't remember size offhand). Definately try cleaning first and drive it for a few days, if no CEL, then return the new MAF.

Godzilla · 06-23-2006, 04:34 PM

before drilling through the screw have you tried removing the airbox ( i think its attached to that) and try a stripped screw remover tool on it?

06-17-2006, 11:53 PM	#4 (permalink)
humanoid Contributing Member Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Sunny SoCal Posts: 1,192	Yeah, double check that the gas cap is on correctly. If you still get the CEL after checking, try resetting the CEL or take your rig to AutoZone and have them pull the code for you. Once you find what the code is we can help you out better. __________________ '99 Taco PreRunner V6 3.4L

06-18-2006, 02:50 AM	#5 (permalink)
DoubleZero4x4 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Gilbert, AZ Posts: 209	Double ditto on those last 2 posts...had the same problem once about 30 miles after a fill-up. __________________ 2000 4Runner SR5 4x4 Sport Mods: Crimestopper Remote Start Alarm - Deck Plate Mod - 400W Inverter - Limo Tint - K&N Air Filter - Tundra Brakes/w Ceramic Pads & PowerSlot Rotors - Hayden Trans Cooler - Goodridge SS Brake Lines 2000 4Runner LTD 4x4 - Wife's Mods: Deck Plate Mod - Tundra Brakes/w Ceramic Pads & PowerSlot Rotors - Goodridge SS Brake Lines - 400W Inverter

06-18-2006, 08:12 AM	#6 (permalink)
kcebes Contributing Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: NoVA Posts: 208	Go to autozone or the equivalent there, they will usually pull the code for free. Post the code here. I recently had a check engine light. It was the MAF sensor. All fixed now. Not much goes wrong with these vehicles from what I can tell. MAF's, O2 sensors __________________ 2000 4runner \| 3.4L \| e-locker \| TJM T-15 \| 305/70/16 maxxis buckshot \| powder coated procomp 1069's \|Lightforce 170's \| Yakima Load Warrior Rack \| Warn M8000 w/Viking synthetic winch rope \| 4crawler 1" BL \| Front:OME lift 881's w/ 1 1/4" daystar spacers + N91S shocks. Rear: OME 891's w/N86 shocks \| Stubbs welding sliders \| Cobra 75 WX ST w/ K40 fiberglass 2' antenna

06-18-2006, 10:58 AM	#8 (permalink)
HUTCHSTACO Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Bellevue, Washington Posts: 1,044	i assume u did not puy disel in it, but was it cheap gas, if the old owner used primium nad u pu regular cheap gas it can set off a cel __________________ 2006 Tacoma 4x4 TRD Sport with 20's and 285 Goodyear Furtura's and 2 inch cornfed lift 2002 Tacoma Extra Cab V6 (SOLD)

06-19-2006, 05:38 AM	#12 (permalink)
Rick F. Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Far western Kentucky (transplanted from central PA) Posts: 1,063	The Autozones here in PA will pull the code for free. Find a local joint that'll do the same and post the code. I doubt you're doing any damage to the vehicle as most of the codes are rather benign. You may or may not even notice any change in the vehicle's driveability. Once you post the code, it could be as simple as cleaning the MAF (which is a very common CEL). __________________ '00 SR5, Desert Dune: 4" Deckplate, Amsoil TS-115, Bilsteins, Brembo rotors w/Performance Friction pads, Fiam Highway Blasters, Sylvania Silverstars, Hella Micro DE Fog Lights w/Hella Yellow Star Lamps - SOLD 1/24/09 '08 Sport, Salsa Red: Hella Optilux fogs, Silverstar Ultra Hi beams. Pending: Borla dual catback, CAI, shocks

06-17-2006, 07:06 PM	#2 (permalink)
Midget96 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 325	Either take it to an autoparts store to pull the code or disconnect the negative battery cable, wait about 20-30sec., then reconnect and start the truck. See if the light comes back on... If you bought it from a dealership, sometimes vital parts can get wet when they detail the engine bay, or even the body shine they hose it with after can screw stuff up resulting in an intermittent CEL.

06-17-2006, 10:05 PM	#3 (permalink)
WHORERUNNER Registered User Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: St.Cloud,MN Posts: 121	you mentioned you put gas, maybe you didn't tighten the gas cap enough. Double check.

06-18-2006, 07:07 PM	#11 (permalink)
stangman39 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 76	Update all... Thanks for all the tips. Last night I did disconnect the neg battery cable, let it sit for a few mins and then put back on. CEL went away. Drove it about 25 miles today and the light came back on. Did the neg cable unplug again...CEL off. Came back on in 20-30miles range. Drove another 15miles or so with it on and then after next start up it was off. Now it is back on! I did put 87 octane in but have no clue what the previous owner used. I'll take it to try to get the codes pulled tomorrow. Overall tho it is driving great. Thanks, Mike

06-19-2006, 11:37 AM	#14 (permalink)
stangman39 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 76	Got a scanner...was a bit more then $25 but that's ok. Pulled the codes. Said there were 2. One was "172" which in my book says ""System Too Rich (Bank 1)". I erased it and the CEL went out. The other code was "172 Pending" Not sure what the pending part means. I guess I'll see when the CEL comes back on. Should I do anything about the too rich code? Thanks, Mike

06-20-2006, 06:44 AM	#15 (permalink)
Rick F. Registered User Join Date: Nov 2002 Location: Far western Kentucky (transplanted from central PA) Posts: 1,063	That would be "P0172". Do a forum search. I recall this as a common CEL code but can't recall what the fix is... __________________ '00 SR5, Desert Dune: 4" Deckplate, Amsoil TS-115, Bilsteins, Brembo rotors w/Performance Friction pads, Fiam Highway Blasters, Sylvania Silverstars, Hella Micro DE Fog Lights w/Hella Yellow Star Lamps - SOLD 1/24/09 '08 Sport, Salsa Red: Hella Optilux fogs, Silverstar Ultra Hi beams. Pending: Borla dual catback, CAI, shocks

06-20-2006, 08:59 PM	#17 (permalink)
Doug S. Registered User Join Date: Jan 2005 Posts: 3	Sounds like an easy fix. The MAF sensor is dirty and requires cleaning. I have used QD Electrical parts cleaner. You first have to remove the Maf sensor and be really careful with this thing. A couple of short bursts from the aerosol spray on the sensor, reinstall and the codes go away!!!!

06-21-2006, 04:20 AM	#18 (permalink)
stangman39 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 76	I'm gonna try to clean the MAF today. I've noticed a bit of a jumpy idle in the morning too so hope it solves that also. Mike

06-21-2006, 09:34 AM	#19 (permalink)
stangman39 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 76	Well, tried to go remove the MAF sensor and I was able to get the top screw out but the bottom bolt...the head is stripped pretty good and I can't get any type of screwdriver in there to turn it! Unless I can figure out some way to get it out I may need to take the top bolt out and just break the sensor around the screw and take the screw out w/pliers...and get a new sensor. What do they run from the dealer? Also noticed the front clips of my air cleaner box were not clipped shut. Mike

06-21-2006, 09:55 AM	#21 (permalink)
stangman39 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 76	So just use a drill bit and drill thru the head of the screw? I assume go to the dealer for a new sensor? Thanks, Mike

06-23-2006, 11:09 AM	#23 (permalink)
stangman39 Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 76	Went to the dealer today and got what I think is the correct MAF sensor/meter. It is part # 22204-07010 They didn't have new screws for mounting it. Does anyone what type of screw I need since one of my is stripped? I may be able to just clean the old sensor once I get it off and can return the new one. Thanks, Mike

06-23-2006, 04:34 PM	#25 (permalink)
Godzilla Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Vancouver Posts: 2,151	before drilling through the screw have you tried removing the airbox ( i think its attached to that) and try a stripped screw remover tool on it?

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