To Charge or not to Charge?
12-11-2009, 09:56 AM
#21
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Well I saw the SEMA pictures then nothing.... then saw some items on URD's site as well as a trend that likely been developing using wifi to transmit data be it in car or in shop.
http://www.urdusa.com/product_info.p..._id=1260518993
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http://www.urdusa.com/product_info.p..._id=1260518993
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12-11-2009, 01:15 PM
#22
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That's interesting, what plugs do you run and how long do they last? Also what size pulley? I know TRD did come out at one point with a bigger than stock pulley to cut the boost down for people without fuel mods, any chance you are running one of those?
Also you have one of the newer ECUs and they do adjust better to the boost than the older models did. I think you also have an A/F sensor in front on that too, right? All this stuff helps.
To the OP, I'm just going to say I'm not taking mine off.
Also you have one of the newer ECUs and they do adjust better to the boost than the older models did. I think you also have an A/F sensor in front on that too, right? All this stuff helps.
To the OP, I'm just going to say I'm not taking mine off.
I just ran out to the car to measure the pulley and to take this photo. After comparing the photo to one of the engine bay when it was almost new, I can see that they also removed a vacuum line of some sort from the intake silencer. No idea why. I definitely do have an A/F ratio sensor, since I had to replace it to the tune of about $460 a few years ago (CEL P01130 code- open circuit in air fuel ratio sensor).
Spark plugs: I am not kidding when I say that I have no idea what plugs I am running. I was really bad at keeping service records in the past. I do know that the plugs were most recently replaced at the dealer 40K miles ago. I'll be replacing them myself in the spring. As far as the pulley, I can't find any markings on the pulley since it is covered in surface corrosion, but it measures 2.37" across on the very OD. I don't know if that is the location of the reference dimension or not. I can also tell you that my boost guage registers 7.5-8 psi under max boost.
The original install and the followup service did not include a throttle body "O" ring gasket. I dremeled my metal "D" ring a month or so ago when I cleaned my TB.
In case anyone is wondering, my last mpg calculation over my last half tank of gas yielded 19.86 mpg. I would estimate that was 75% highway driving.
Have a look at the new vs. old pics and let me know if you notice any other mods that I missed.
Here she was all shiny & sorta new
And here she is after almost 130,000 miles. Besides a few rusty parts, she could still clean up like new. Yes, I know, my brake fluid is filthy. It's never been changed to my knowledge
12-11-2009, 01:35 PM
#23
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12-11-2009, 01:38 PM
#24
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Interesting heres where I'm at with the snout. https://www.yotatech.com/newreply.ph...e=1&p=51279403
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12-11-2009, 01:41 PM
#25
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Looks like the stock pulley. That's great you're not able to get any ping. Before the fuel upgrades, my truck was super sensitive to anything below 92 octane. I'm also suprised they didn't swap out the D-ring gasket when they did the s/c install.
19 mpg is impressive, most of the supercharged 4runners I see getting that kind of fuel economy are 2WD.
19 mpg is impressive, most of the supercharged 4runners I see getting that kind of fuel economy are 2WD.
12-11-2009, 03:29 PM
#26
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---------------
Switching gears...
Why do we always get into the "my truck doesn't ping" debate?
Hook up an EGT/AFR gauge...like I always say. I know Dale can attest to that as well. The temp spikes (and subsequent drops) will scare the heck out of you. The fact that some of you have ran this long with fuel/timing mods is simply because this engine is so durable.
Audible ping is not an indicator of the health of your charged engine.
12-11-2009, 04:00 PM
#27
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Well not to sounds like an ass hat but 450-500 a year for fuel costs doesn't sound like it would even be noticed, lets see cut back on Starbucks cappuccino at $4 a pop 2x a week ...... is $384 a year so pretty much be a home brewer and tada fuel cost covered. I was also considering the wifi unit for the obdII and utilizing my i phone further. I think the 2.2 will be a better choice especially with the 7th inj. Well I've run out of patience and am going to send this snout off to a place in GA to rebuild it. Unless anyone has some insight as to how it comes apart, I'm sure it's simple as it's not very intricate.
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12-11-2009, 04:57 PM
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Hey XC, i'm in the same boat. I have a charger sitting in my room that i'm debating about. I've read about the shim mod for the tranny, supra injectors, and tuning needed. I need to get the snout on mine rebuilt as well. Was the place in GA that you're sending it, the one i keep seeing on ebay?
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12-12-2009, 02:35 PM
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Well while $500 might not be noticed over the course of a year $1000 plus to finish this project would be noticed. So for now I'll leave the SC project in go mode but continue the slow build of parts I started a month or so ago.
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12-19-2009, 05:43 AM
#32
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http://customtacos.com/tech/files/v6_supercharger.pdf
Supplement:
http://customtacos.com/tech/files/V6...arger_supp.pdf
12-19-2009, 01:45 PM
#33
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On a side not what about headers? I've found the TRD units for mid $400's and just wanted to know if worth doing, while I'm at it? Keep in mind the donor motor is being rebuilt so adding headers will not be an issues, though I do have a 1" body lift and can find no definitive information whether they are a cause to non fitment.
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12-19-2009, 03:05 PM
#34
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I would never do them again if I could go back in time. Then again, I have Edelbrock's (which they don't make anymore - probably for a reason). URD's are probably much better than the 'brocks. I've had just way too many issues like a nut you cannot reach unless you're a 5lb monkey with Vice Grip fingers, a header collector pipe that makes contact with the clutch release fork, a collector pipe that, by design, touched my slave cylinder's hydraulic line, burned a hole in it, and created a complete loss of clutch function along with a white cloud of smoke that rivaled some 4th of July shows, and increased engine sound. But hey, I had mine ceramic coated at least, lol.
12-20-2009, 12:58 AM
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I chose not to supercharge as I use mine as a bushtruck and won't sacrifice any reliability a hundred miles from nowhere just for highway fun. Just my .02
12-20-2009, 06:04 AM
#36
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I would never do them again if I could go back in time. Then again, I have Edelbrock's (which they don't make anymore - probably for a reason). URD's are probably much better than the 'brocks. I've had just way too many issues like a nut you cannot reach unless you're a 5lb monkey with Vice Grip fingers, a header collector pipe that makes contact with the clutch release fork, a collector pipe that, by design, touched my slave cylinder's hydraulic line, burned a hole in it, and created a complete loss of clutch function along with a white cloud of smoke that rivaled some 4th of July shows, and increased engine sound. But hey, I had mine ceramic coated at least, lol.
01-08-2010, 01:12 PM
#38
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So did we vote headers or no headers? I was looking at the Thorley units. Also is there a definitive mpg for a SC'd 4Runner? I've heard some numbers here and there and feel economically it might not be feasible (if I have to use premium and get ty fuel economy).
Aaron
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01-08-2010, 01:43 PM
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The headers are a win/win for performance and economy and I'd highly recommend them if you're up for the daunting task of installation.
There's a lot of variability, but mileage for me is roughly 15-17 w/fuel mods and 17-19 without them.
There's a lot of variability, but mileage for me is roughly 15-17 w/fuel mods and 17-19 without them.
01-08-2010, 01:47 PM
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Oh yea forgot the mention had a 5vz rebuilt and it is what will receive new headers. The 7th inj is what is recommended for my year and vehicle from URD, I still need a pulley likely a 2.2". I just was trying to get a 33" geared and sc'd mpg est. I have heard worse and have gotten worse than what you posted w/o a sc.
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