dpin78

Hi Charchee,
Just PM'd you.

I found the document (pics below) that someone posted. I has the same TC actuator connector my 2000 has. I was able to manually power the actuator and get it to move.
And yes, from looking at the FSM I believe you are correct. I would need to open the case to get to the snap rings. Unless someone else has done it another way?

Update to keep everyone in the loop:
When I powered my actuator I could hear the electric motor clicking. I decided to open that little black round cover you see on the top of the actuator. That's the electric motor cover. Behind it are some gears. I applied some WD40 to them.
I also removed the metal cover behind the white connector see in the pictures. It has three 10mm bolts. I also applied some wd40 there. I then jumped my actuator and hit it with a rubber mallet. IT MOVED!

Problem not 100% fixed yet though.
- My actuator is still getting stuck and need to bang it with a rubber mallet.
- When I manually move it to 4wd position all my green lights stay on and no flashing.
- When I try to get it back to 2wd position my lights stay blinking.
- I can manually put it back into 2wd by jumping the actuator and banging it a few times.

Not sure if maybe a TC fluid change is next. Maybe new fluid will lubricate the gears inside the actuator enough to get it unstuck.

I don't think I have any more bad switches/sensors though, because when I manually move the actuator to 4wd position and push my 4wd button all my lights stay green and no flashing. If I had bad sensors I think I would be in 4wd, but with flashing lights since one of the signals would be wrong and confuse the ECU.

Transfer Case Actuator Motor part number for my 2000 4runner Limited 4WD is 36410-35051

Dailydriver2

So your sensors are showing 4wd when engaged. When you go back to 2wd have you checked for pending dis-engagement of the front ADD? Is it still engaged and not releasing the clutch? If you jack the front end up you can tell by turning the tires and the front driveshaft will still turn or vice versa.

Charchee

You really need to take some time, if you have it and jack her up about an inch on all four corners and then do your troubleshooting. If you see your TC doing what it's supposed to and the front end not, you are on the wrong end of the truck. I'm not think it's your front end but you will sure be able to see what's going on, if anything, in real time. You'll also be able to see it work with the TC turning. A lot of time they'll hang up and not shift when you are completely stopped. It helped me a bunch the one time i did it.

robertwall

Okay. I'm somewhere else on this thread and think I may have found the possible issue. I reported several weeks ago how, for a second time, I separated the plug/contacts from the main sensor in question and cleaned the contacts using CRD contact cleaner. As previously I plugged the extension tube that came with the spray into the nozzle and started spraying. The tube immediately blew off although I was subsequently able to find it. I then proceeded to BATHE both the sensor terminals and, the best I could, the internal part of the collecting plug, literally soaking them both. A few days later, and since, now for at least two weeks or more, the unit continues to function flawlessly, promptly turning on and turning off mere moments after pushing the 4WD button.

I think that this describes the nature of the problem. The connections to the sensor, both at the sensor and the plug itself, need to be cleaned and more than once. Oxidization, heat, moisture all can degrade copper or other terminals, especially over a period of nearly 15 years. (Mine is a 2002 4 Runner.) So it would now appear that thoroughly cleaning the terminals on the sensor, AS WELL AS ON THE PLUG WHICH CONNECTS TO THE SENSOR, solves the problem as well as explains why cleaning the sensor's terminals only may work but only briefly.

I hope this helps. I will update if there are any additional problems. When I run the 4Runner I am constantly exercising the 4WD by shifting in and out as I travel. Again, the unit now works flawlessly!

AND AGAIN, THANKS TO FUNRUNNERGAL FOR PUTTING ME ON THE RIGHT TRACK!!!!!

dpin78

Hi Dailydriver2/Charchee,

Jacked up the truck and here are my results:
- When in 2wd I press the 4wd button = I hear the TC actuator moving, but 4wd does not engage (blinking lights). Only Rear wheels spinning.
- When in 2wd with 4wd button still pushed in and I move the lever to 4H(L) then all 4 tires spin, but 4wd lights stay blinking.
- When I push lever back to 2wd and turn off 4wd button, the truck stays in 4wd with 4wd lights blinking. I don't hear the TC actuator moving back to 2wd position

Thanks,
Dan

Dailydriver2

If you jumped it, there might be a timing issue at play since there is no control to stop at any one position other than 2wd, which is when the actuator rod is completely to the rear position. Inside the cup, the switch needs to be in a certain place in 2wd to be able to turn, pushing the actuator to the next position where the actuator switch is open or closed, depending. When these two get out of time, the 2wd/4wd/Awd modes are not fully obtainable, causing the light to flash as an error. In the picture, this was my starting point in 2wd. The turning of the black motor is irrelevant, but the position of this is. I believe it was two or three teeth counterclockwise to this position in the cup or where "B" was near the "C" position in order for the whole system to work, given everything else is working properly such as the little switches that were mentioned in the early post of this thread. Vacuum is also a factor, but possiblly not in your case.

dpin78

Very interesting! I didn't know the TC actuator could jump timing. I'll snap some pictures tomorrow of mine. I do hear the actuator moving when I try to put it into 4wd mode. I'm able to get it into 4wd mode when I jump it. And when I jump after putting into 4wd mode it still moves a little but more. Like it didn't go all the way in only half way. Once I jump it and help it finish moving all the way inside then my 4wd light stops blinking and everything works as it should. Maybe this is my issue.

If anyone has instructions on how to set it back to the correct timing it would be helpful!
Thanks!

Dailydriver2

It was trial and error for me. During trial and error of going back to 2wd each time, removing the switch, it may become jammed in between modes and you need to loosen the actuator housing bolts and jiggle it and pound it with a dead blow hammer. Just remember to not force it back in. The gear is Delrin, and pretty durable, but my teeth looked as the picture when I got it to work. You also have to take the small brass gear out the top and push it back onto the splines on the end of the switch that point upward to the actuator rod. 8mm open end will get that door off and to the side.

I know of a few Toyota techs that won't even mess with this, they replace them per the book instead. I believe that when you have it in 2wd and the B marking is near C, it will work. It put a smile on my face when I could shift through modes with no issues.

Dailydriver2

Just like mine did!

Charchee

Here's one more thing to look at if you want an easy test. The last time I had to troubleshoot mine, I tested the 4WD button on the TC stick. I had some odd continuity readings which I contributed to my probes slipping. After several tries, I got it to make a good tone. After a long night of fooling with the system I put it all back together and not paying attention, I let the wires for that switch get wrapped around in front of the set screw and ended up running the screw through the wires which ruined the switch.

Fast forward a few weeks. My new, new to me, switch came in and before installing, I tested it. No continuity. I tried it several times and finally got a little beep. The more I tried it the more tone I got. I sprayed some contact cleaner in there and worked the switch several more times and got a good steady tone. The switch contacts were just corroded or dirty from not being worked for some time.

I guess what I'm saying is to really check that switch well and work it quite a few times to make sure the contacts are clear. An intermittent signal from that switch will throw everything out of whack. Again, that's just something to think about in the course of troubleshooting the system.

dpin78

Hi guys,
Okay so I retested my 4wd push button and continuity readings were good.
Here is a picture of my TC actuator gear in 2wd position. As you can see it seems off compared to your picture Dailydriver2. I will play around with the timing and hopefully this corrects my issue:

Dailydriver2

Your picture looks about right where I put mine to get it working.

Dave E

I have the flashing 4wd and center lock lights on my 2001 runner. Let the games begin!!!!!!. I have read this post and lots of good info but in my case I am overloaded with info and get confused sometimes!!!!! I pulled the switches on the drivers rear on the Transfer case and they checked ok. (electrical open when plunger not depressed and energized when plunger pushed in) at that time I also sprayed ALL the connectors with tons of electrical cleaner, they actually look shiny and bright but I sprayed the contacts anyway) But l did notice that both switches were open with no pressure on the plunger and closed AS SOON as I touched the plunger. My question is how much travel does the plunger make before it completes the circuit? Mine complete the ckt as soon I as move the plunger as little a 1/16 inch. is this normal or is it energizing to soon. ????
tks
Dave

robertwall

Dave, it's one thing to pull the switches and another to clean the terminals, i.e. those protruding from the switch and those INTERNAL to the connector. Try that with heavy doses of CRD Contact Clearner and give it a week for it to take effect. When I say "take effect" I mean it may be difficult to wipe the contacts on the switch as well as to get inside the slots on the connectors. So it may take that long for the CRD to penetrate the gunk. That was my experience. In fact, after about a week I threw in the towel and took my vehicle to the Stealership. When I came to pick it up (and pay the $100.00 for them to drive it and find out all was well) it was fully functioning. They looked at me as if I was an alien and I looked at them questioning whether they thought I was crazy. I had been driving 4-Wheel drive vehicles since the 70's doing many things and going places most people wouldn't even try-- such as up dry washes from boulder to boulder using U.S. Geological Survey maps!

Dave E

Robert thanks for the response. I will take them out again and spray more electrical contact cleaner in all the terminals. Do you remember how much travel the .plunger makes before it closed the circuit? Mine close almost immediately and to me that seems very touchy.

Charchee

They should close quickly as you depress them. What's more important is, do they stay closed as you slowly depress them all the way? Attach your leads and press them in a bunch of times and listen for a break in continuity. If you find any bad spots in them, either clean them really well or replace them.

It is also good to know what position your transfer case is actually in. I do this by reinstalling the switches and testing for continuity on each of them while they are installed. Check that out and post what you see.

robertwall

Dave, I could never get that far. My 4 Runner is an '02 and although owners of 4 Runners of other years indicated a 27mm socket would get the switch off I could never get that socket on it. As I related in other posts, the first time I disconnected the contacts and exposed the terminals on the switch I sprayed the switch and the connector contacts, although not too heavily. The vehicle ran just fine thereafter for a month or two. The next time I exposed the switch and connector I HEAVILY sprayed the contacts. In fact, the tube that came with the CRD blew off the can, I knew not where but found it on the ground afterwards. I used fluid straight from the can and sprayed a large amount on both the connector and the switch-- much more than would come out of the tube. I also let both pieces hang to drip dry although I was of course able to wipe the exposed terminals on the switch. That seems to have done the trick as two months (or more) have gone by and I can readily and easily switch into and out of 4WD. Should I have the problem again I will spray again although I have had no problems since mid-December if not earlier!

The only "problem" I have had, and it's not really a problem, is that I may have to wait until the vehicle moderately warms up before I can switch to 4WD, i.e. about five to ten minutes, max. Thereafter, again, no problems and virtually instantaneously in and out of 4WD.

I hope this helps!

Dave E

2-15-17 update:2001 sr5 I removed the two switches that are on the actuator on the drivers side rear of the transfer case. I also removed the 2 that are on the top drivers side (what a pain in the A$$ that was). I cleaned with contact/electrical cleaner both the switch and the connector, flushed out the plunger multiple times and checked for continuity both before and after cleaning. I had/have good continuity for the full stroke of the all the plungers. Only the neutral position switch on top of the t-case required the plunger to move about 3/16 of an inch before valid continuity check, all other switches made contact (completed circuit) almost immediately.

Looking at some of the diagrams of the T-case there is pictured another switch on top of the t-case on the passenger side. I can not find it. I looked as best I could get my fat head up there and also stuck my hand up there and nothing! am I missing something of is this omitted on a 2001 2022 runner?

I reinstalled everything and drove around for about 3 to 4 miles in 4wd. Still locked in 4wd. Lights still flashing. pushed buttoms both the 2 to 4 and the centerlock and nothing changed. When I push the 2 to 4 button the lights (both the 4 green tire lights and the orange center diff light) go out for about 3 seconds but come right back on. Pushing the center diff lock button doenst do anything, all the lights continue to flash.

Tomorrow I will try to find out what position the t case actuator is in. and if time permits the front diff actuator.

any suggestions are welcome!!!!

robertwall

Dave, are we talking about the same switch? To be sure you might want to check Dreamer's or Newly Awakened's series of four videos. (I believe she has used both names, one of which can be found on YOUTUBE.) The switch I'm talking about can be reached from under the vehicle, on the transfer case and under or slightly to the rear of the alternator when you're looking down with the hood open. Check out the videos as we're talking about a single switch.

In fact, here's the link. https://www.youtube.com/results?sear...hift+into+4+wd. There are four videos and she has done a wonderful job!

Dave E

RObert, yes I saw her videos but unfortunately mine is a 2001 and Toyota changed the 4 wheel system on the 2001 and 2002. So most of the info and videos do not apply to mine. Basically its the same but the pre 2001 has 6 switches (i think) and mine only has 4. And the actuators are also different. my front actuator (on front diff) has an electric motor and the older years use vacuum. My front actuator does NOT have a switch on it. Those little differences have made if difficult for me to figure out. I am planning on getting some pages from an FSM today to see if I can figure this out for a 2001. Also electrical stuff is NOT my strong suit. I can get by but just barely. I do have all the tools and equipment but lack the basic knowledge to dive into electrical stuff. And I do appreciate your feedback.. tks