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3.4 Plugs

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Old 06-19-2005, 05:20 PM
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3.4 Plugs

I did a search but I actually couldnt find to much on the precedure.

Other then plug socket and extension what else will I need?

I've done plugs on other vehicles and never used anti seize or anything. Do you guys use some sort of anti seize or dielectric grease?

Other then that anything else I'll need? On my s-10 i had a piece of vynal tubing that I'd use to remove and install the plugs that I couldnt reach. It didnt look like I'd have that problem.

But my s-10 didnt have coil packs like this truck. Is there a trick to these? Just take out the little bolt and pull off the plug boots right? Are these boots known for breaking? Should I have anything just incase?

Thanks guys...
Old 06-19-2005, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by CynicX
I did a search but I actually couldnt find to much on the precedure.

Other then plug socket and extension what else will I need?

I've done plugs on other vehicles and never used anti seize or anything. Do you guys use some sort of anti seize or dielectric grease?

Other then that anything else I'll need? On my s-10 i had a piece of vynal tubing that I'd use to remove and install the plugs that I couldnt reach. It didnt look like I'd have that problem.

But my s-10 didnt have coil packs like this truck. Is there a trick to these? Just take out the little bolt and pull off the plug boots right? Are these boots known for breaking? Should I have anything just incase?

Thanks guys...
cynix,

i always use anti-seize on the plug threads and dieletric grease on the boots. a few seconds and cents of the goo on both can save you from unneeded headache.

removing the plug boots: unbolt and slowly lift off the plug boots. thats it.

i believe waskilly has a writeup. check his website. i *had* one in the making but never finished it

bob
Old 06-19-2005, 05:32 PM
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Try this

I have the Snap-On socket like this one and its saved me hours of time working on my 3.0. Check it out http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=91705
Old 06-19-2005, 05:45 PM
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In addition to the ratchet, extension, and correct socket, you may want to get a telescoping magnetic tool. If the socket has insulator material in it, you may not need this, but I do on mine. Once you get the plug loose, slide the magnet down in the valve cover and the plug will come right out.

Also, get yourself a wire feeler guage gapper. Don't use the standard coin type. It is impossible to gap these twin (in my case triple) electrode plugs with a coin type gapper. The wire gapper also has a nifty adjustment tool on it, so you can adjust each electrode by putting pressure in the right places.

While I agree with the anti-seize suggestions, I would also like to mention that I have never used it on any of my vehicles, and never had a problem. However, I do use dielectric tune-up grease on the inner portion of the plug boot. Everyone should do that.
Old 06-19-2005, 06:03 PM
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i don't really bother with anti-sieze on my plugs. my ignition burns them up in 5k miles so i'm changing them every few months.

interestingly enough i used to be on the NGK/denso bandwagon until i installed an accel super stock coil. i gave a set of standard autolites a try for grins(a regular electrode holds up to my ignition better than the "V" plugs) and i noticed no decreases in driveability or performance. then again, might be different on a stock coil, my old truck hated bosch plugs...
Old 06-19-2005, 07:27 PM
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Tape your extension to the spark plug socket so it does'nt come off. I use synth motor oil on the threads instead of anti-seize. Works for me.
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