dlbrunner

Hit the junk yard for the steering box. some OEM steering parts are crap, like the tie rods, no grease fittings! Go with napa on the steering parts, lifetime warranty, you will burn through then either way on a second gen.

outdoorfever

k thanks for all the info guys.

Ched. Nope I listened to you. I got an allignment. oh well. I'll let u know when i need help.

tulsa_97SR5

OT: hey, just noticed your location under your avatar, did you move for school or something?

934rnr

Time for SAS.

Hey for $2,200 you would be well on your way there.

SloPoke

Yah, I secong the SAS.

Peep dis for that...

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=384733

SloPoke

So the allignment didn't fix things eh? Hmmmm.

What you think about this.....
https://www.yotatech.com/~corey/tech...imrockford.htm

easy enough to check at least

outdoorfever

yikes that rattle sounds crazy compared to mine! good find though Ched. I'm gettin ready to run to the dealership and check prices. I'm also gonna call toyota of grapevine, they usually have reallygood prices.

how do the junkyards work? u just go there and find what you want and then take it off yourself? or do they take it off?

anddd, i'd love to do the swap but...we have a Dad to deal with here. The only way that will ever happen is if I do it when I'm in NC.

Brian- I'm moving there shortly. Not there yet. This was preparation for the move lol.

outdoorfever

Just got back from the dealership......

2600 dollars for Genuine toyota parts. I think not sir!!!

callmej75

You can contact toyotapartsdude on here for a steering box. I'd say tie rods and ball joints you can get at auto zone. Idler arm and pitman arm get from toyota and axles you can get cheaper from cvunlimited. maybe a grand total of $600-$700. You can put these things on fairly easy if you know what a socket and a hammer is. Rent a pickle fork from auto zone.

dlbrunner

some yards will pull them for you, some you have to do yourself. Be warned though, steering parts are a PITA. High ft/lbs on the bolts, also when you take it in to be aligned ask the guy or girl to look over your work real quick, steering is critical no 1/2 a$$ jobs on that! leftover bolts at the end are a BAD sign

straightaxle85

SAS for me, bone simple and easy to work on.

Bluto

Idler arm:

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/idler/

outdoorfever

thank you Bluto!

OffRoadTexan

Look for some shops in your area. I found a local guy here in Houston, been doing drivetrain and suspension work for 25 years with 23 year customers, so the quality is good. He does hundreds of body and suspension lifts on Toyotas a year, and has lots of parts behind his shop.

Point is, he will do a solid axle swap on my 86 for $600 out the door. Everything done and included in that price, I have to offer up nothing. The work is really only welding on spring perches and bolting on from there. If I were you, I would seriously price out a SAS before fixing the IFS parts, especially at those prices...

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

You can do this job yourself for sure. I recently replaced everything under my front end for about for about $500-600 (I think) minus the pitman and steering box. But that includes some items you didn't mention (ball joint spacers $90, steering stabilizer $35, front shocks $90, and control arm bushings $55, Idler arm brace $50, IFS brace $50) I pretty much got everything internet/aftermarket and am happy with the quality and I'll slog around here in a bit and see if I can get you some links. Im no big mechanic and was very nervous about doing this job but it really went quite well. It took me quite a while but I was in no hurry as my truck is not my DD so I spent ALOT of time cleaning/sanding/painting/lubing things while I had it apart. There was also some cutting on the control arms for the BJ spacers. Minus the cutting and my anal nature about cleaning under there, I think I could have done this in a w/e. That idler arm write up that Bluto gave you is excellent BTW. I followed that to rebuild mine for $13 vs $50-75 for a replacement part. The only other thing I can add is don't do the control arm bushings if you don't have to. (mine had to go and they were the biggest PITA about the whole job) I also have a steering box rebuild write up somewhere I'll try to find for you, but I haven't decided yet wether to try that one or not. Good luck.

Mike

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

Here's the place i got my tie rod ends and ball joints. The ball joints aren't listed on the site and I had to call or e mail them but it went smoothly. The ball joints are 555 brand and the tie rods were "OE brand". At the time they didn't have 555 in the tie rods but I see that now they do at least for the outer.

http://www.instockauto.com/

The steering box write up doesn't work for me anymore but here it is anyway. Maybe you will have better luck. I think it was some guy's personal site and has maybe changed or doesn't exist anymore. I got it off of Pirate. Maybe you can find another if you poke around over there. Or maybe someone here has something?


http://128.83.80.200/taco/box.html

mastacox

For the suspension rebuild, you should look at this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ball-...spagenameZWDVW

I got this exact kit from this guy and it has worked great, and very good deal.

I might recommend having a guy do it though, the ball joints were really hard to get out (had to customize my craftsman puller).

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

I remember a thread about those parts. Glad to hear they are working out well for you. If you're happy with the parts then I just don't see how you can beat that deal. Just for a second opinion, I didn't have any trouble getting my ball joints out, but I did trash them in the process. There would have been no re-using them, though that (re-use) is not the point in this thread.

mastacox

Mine were REALLY in there, but I greased the new ones when I installed them so they should be easier to get out...

toyota parts dude

iTrader: (2)

i have 2 1990 4runners for parts. i'll sell the steering box for $100 shipped to you in North Carolina. i just got a idler arm from AdvanceAuto parts for only $60 for a 1988 4runner i'm fixing to sell.

the tierod ends you could get used just check if the socket is nice and tight. it should be hard to move the end.

put a jack under the lower control arm and wobble the tire grabbing the top and bottom. that will tell you which ball joint end you need. wobble it by grabbing the side anbd that will tell you which tierod you need. i extremely dought you need everything at once.