1999 4Runner Won't Start
#21
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I have not yet been able to fully unplug the alarm, and likely won't be able to until this weekend. Any other ideas or help in the short term would be GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks,
JT
Thanks,
JT
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I believe it has to do with the actual KEY with the chip inside of it. Here's why....
My 99 Limited has the dumb immobilizer. I have always had a problem starting it, but mine is whenever it feels like. If/when this happens, I take the key out for a second or two, flip it over, and it starts.
All good and fine, thinking its something with the car....BUT, when I use the Remote Start, (Has a chip type sender that duplicates as if the key were starting the car) It starts EVERYTIME.
This leads me to think its the key, and not the system. Although, I don;t have the alarm that you have...and I don;t have another key to even test my theory. But, that's my take.
Next time it won;t start, take the key out, flip it around, and see if it starts.
Brett
My 99 Limited has the dumb immobilizer. I have always had a problem starting it, but mine is whenever it feels like. If/when this happens, I take the key out for a second or two, flip it over, and it starts.
All good and fine, thinking its something with the car....BUT, when I use the Remote Start, (Has a chip type sender that duplicates as if the key were starting the car) It starts EVERYTIME.
This leads me to think its the key, and not the system. Although, I don;t have the alarm that you have...and I don;t have another key to even test my theory. But, that's my take.
Next time it won;t start, take the key out, flip it around, and see if it starts.
Brett
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Brett:
Thanks for taking the time to post your experience with this issue. I dont "think" it's the key, as Toyota coded and cut a new key already and this didn't resolve the issue. However, the next time this occurs, I will absolutely try this method and see what the results are...you never know...
Thanks again!
Thanks for taking the time to post your experience with this issue. I dont "think" it's the key, as Toyota coded and cut a new key already and this didn't resolve the issue. However, the next time this occurs, I will absolutely try this method and see what the results are...you never know...
Thanks again!
#24
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Jeff, I don't think people are far off in regards to the actual issue, but I don't think there is any way to bypass the immobilizer with your current RS3200 (assuming this is what you have) alarm on there. I know with most other aftermarket systems they have immobilizer bypass modules which will get you around this issue altogether. Now I know this does not solve the actual problem and is simply a way to go around it.......sorry I can't help you solve the actual issue (ie the immobilizer itself).
#25
My best guess...
Okay I have 2 ideas similar to whats be stated find the relays under the stearing wheel were the alarm harness basicly it pluged in series with the factory wireing, this is were the relays are that you splice into if your doing a remote start system by the way. This is why unpluging the harness at the alarm brain causes the truck to still not start till you unplug the connectors going to the harness of the alarm brain and just plug them right into each other. This should bypass your factory alarm system whle you see if the problem still there or gone, I would also guess its possible that one of these relays could be failing getting stuck when its real cold out as another possible problem.
My next guess is the theory that its the immobolizer circuit not seeing the key in the ignition since you said you still see the alarm light blinking when you have the key in the ignition but this also could be the alarm brains just having problems too, My understanding is that there is a ring around the keyhole that gets energized when you put the key into the ignition and it actually senses and reads the chip in the key via creating a magnetic field around the key to power it and read it and then disabling the imobilizing circuit which I would think is just a relay some were under the dash or in the engine bay to allow it to start.
Sorry for the long post and my rambiling..... but good luck finding the problem, but if it was me I would bypass the factory alarm first then look at the imobilization circuit as the next possible cause.
Oh forgot to say I don't think its your key now that you have gotten a new one re-cut and programed into the truck.
My next guess is the theory that its the immobolizer circuit not seeing the key in the ignition since you said you still see the alarm light blinking when you have the key in the ignition but this also could be the alarm brains just having problems too, My understanding is that there is a ring around the keyhole that gets energized when you put the key into the ignition and it actually senses and reads the chip in the key via creating a magnetic field around the key to power it and read it and then disabling the imobilizing circuit which I would think is just a relay some were under the dash or in the engine bay to allow it to start.
Sorry for the long post and my rambiling..... but good luck finding the problem, but if it was me I would bypass the factory alarm first then look at the imobilization circuit as the next possible cause.
Oh forgot to say I don't think its your key now that you have gotten a new one re-cut and programed into the truck.
Last edited by WT; 11-09-2006 at 04:22 PM. Reason: another idea
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WT:
Thanks for all your input.
At this point I'd be happy if I could 100% bypass the factory alarm, keyless entry, and immobilizer system. I would be happy to buy an aftermarket system to protect the truck and provide keyless entry, if only I could just get the truck to be reliable.
Thanks again...
Thanks for all your input.
At this point I'd be happy if I could 100% bypass the factory alarm, keyless entry, and immobilizer system. I would be happy to buy an aftermarket system to protect the truck and provide keyless entry, if only I could just get the truck to be reliable.
Thanks again...
#28
WT:
Thanks for all your input.
At this point I'd be happy if I could 100% bypass the factory alarm, keyless entry, and immobilizer system. I would be happy to buy an aftermarket system to protect the truck and provide keyless entry, if only I could just get the truck to be reliable.
Thanks again...
Thanks for all your input.
At this point I'd be happy if I could 100% bypass the factory alarm, keyless entry, and immobilizer system. I would be happy to buy an aftermarket system to protect the truck and provide keyless entry, if only I could just get the truck to be reliable.
Thanks again...
#29
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Then simply pull the harness apart that leads to the stock alarm brain and plug them together (there will be 2 male and female end) and this will effetivly bypass the stock alarm to see if the problem goes away first, then consider adding a aftermarket system. My harness was located just under my right knee of lower dash
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Ok, is there any way to bypass the immobilizer system altogether? I'm 99% sure this is where the problem lies, but from all accounts it's extremely difficult or impossible to do...
#32
I would say try to bypass the factory alarm first and see how things go for a while, since you said it seems that you still see the alarm LED on when you have it disarmed, so it maybe thinking its still on so its causing the car not to start when the key it inserted and tried to be used. If the problem still there afterwards it may be the imobilizer circuit causing it and the only way I know to bypass it is with a module similar to what a alarm installer would use if you were putting in a remote start alarm since it has to temporarly bypass the imobilizer to start the car without the key inserted. These are alaviable from most alarm instal shops, I would suggest you find one that has a unit that can learn your key code so you don't have to actually install a spare key in the unit for it to function. Also this is probably something you may want a alarm installer to help you with if your not familiar with what I am talking about. Another option maybe as simple as replacing that magnetic ring that I refered to ealier thats around the ignition for a few bucks from the dealer, its what is actually activating and sensing the key is close and inserted in the ignition.
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this thread rings true for me too. i am having a major issue right now.
i left my hella fogs on for about 4 hrs, came back and my battery was near dead. threw a jump pack on, wont crank over. tried to jump it, same result.
its almost as if it is getting all the juice it needs but no gas.
i am wondering if i have a problem my alarm/immobilizer.
jtrent: does your starter run fine, but it just doesnt result in the engine actually turning on, or do you get no noise at all with the turn of the key?
i left my hella fogs on for about 4 hrs, came back and my battery was near dead. threw a jump pack on, wont crank over. tried to jump it, same result.
its almost as if it is getting all the juice it needs but no gas.
i am wondering if i have a problem my alarm/immobilizer.
jtrent: does your starter run fine, but it just doesnt result in the engine actually turning on, or do you get no noise at all with the turn of the key?
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Lee:
The truck turns over just fine, but no fuel (verified with pressure gauge at the rail) and possibly no spark.
My truck ONLY does this if the Security Light continues to blink after inserting the key. Does your light blink as well?
The truck turns over just fine, but no fuel (verified with pressure gauge at the rail) and possibly no spark.
My truck ONLY does this if the Security Light continues to blink after inserting the key. Does your light blink as well?
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i havent yet paid attention to that
its raining hard today, but this afternoon i am going to try some things
ill check that out. mine just plain wont start, it hasnt started since friday evening when i left my fog lights on by accident
its raining hard today, but this afternoon i am going to try some things
ill check that out. mine just plain wont start, it hasnt started since friday evening when i left my fog lights on by accident
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Well, it doesn't look like I've got the RS3200 Alarm System in my truck...at least not judging by the document that MTL_4runner posted. I took the lower driver-side panels off and none of the connectors I looked at had the V5 connectors inbetween the factory ones like shown in the RS3200 document.
Anyone got anything else I should look at while this is all apart? Otherwise, I guess I'm just going to put it all back together.
Anyone got anything else I should look at while this is all apart? Otherwise, I guess I'm just going to put it all back together.
#39
Well, it doesn't look like I've got the RS3200 Alarm System in my truck...at least not judging by the document that MTL_4runner posted. I took the lower driver-side panels off and none of the connectors I looked at had the V5 connectors inbetween the factory ones like shown in the RS3200 document.
Anyone got anything else I should look at while this is all apart? Otherwise, I guess I'm just going to put it all back together.
Anyone got anything else I should look at while this is all apart? Otherwise, I guess I'm just going to put it all back together.
Not sure if you have had this since new so is it possible they replaced the stock alarm ?? do you have a picture of the alarm transmitter that help determine if its actually a toyota unit of after market.
#40
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Ditto on the advice from WT, post some pics of the key fobs so we can get an idea if this is even a dealer installed unit or maybe something aftermarket.