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1998 4Runner 4WD Doesn't Work in the Snow

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Old 12-15-2008, 08:37 PM
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i had the same thing happen about 5 winters ago but only the rear axle problem. Mine was due to water entering my rear axle and freezing causing a blown rear axle seal. the dif fluid then soaked my rear pads causing them to swell and drag ever so slightly, on icy roads there was enough drag to lock it up under 10 but over 10 it would roll just fine. you could also have water in your brake lines causing sticky brakes. just my two cents good luck.
Old 12-15-2008, 09:36 PM
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Why are you running 32psi on packed snow?
Old 12-16-2008, 04:21 AM
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Originally Posted by DailyDrive
Why are you running 32psi on packed snow?
has nothing to do with the fact his rear wheel is binding

32psi is sticker pressure. no problems with that
Old 12-16-2008, 05:00 AM
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Sure, I just skimmed the post and that jumped out. 32psi is for loaded 4Runner on dry pavement. Running that on empty and on snow is like having Flintstones wooden wheels.
Old 12-16-2008, 06:58 AM
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I'm at 40psi f/r and do just fine in packed snow (and we just got 6" this morning). Running a lower pressure won't get you much better grip. It's more to do with your tire compound and siping. If the snow turns to slush, you definitely don't want to run low.
Old 12-16-2008, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by alaskan4runner
i had the same thing happen about 5 winters ago but only the rear axle problem. Mine was due to water entering my rear axle and freezing causing a blown rear axle seal. the dif fluid then soaked my rear pads causing them to swell and drag ever so slightly, on icy roads there was enough drag to lock it up under 10 but over 10 it would roll just fine. you could also have water in your brake lines causing sticky brakes. just my two cents good luck.

BINGO!

This is your problem more than likely. Happened to me too. On 2 separate 4Runners.

Your rear axle seal is leaking, causing your brake shoes to stick to the drum.

Or it could be a wheel cylinder leaking as well. Check your brake fluid level.

You need to remove the drums and inspect the pads. Mine was leaking ever so slightly that it did not leak externally, so the only way to find the problem was to pull the drums.


If you need help pulling the drums, speak up, I'll give you a step by step.
Old 12-16-2008, 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Adam F
BINGO!

This is your problem more than likely. Happened to me too. On 2 separate 4Runners.

Your rear axle seal is leaking, causing your brake shoes to stick to the drum.

Or it could be a wheel cylinder leaking as well. Check your brake fluid level.

You need to remove the drums and inspect the pads. Mine was leaking ever so slightly that it did not leak externally, so the only way to find the problem was to pull the drums.


If you need help pulling the drums, speak up, I'll give you a step by step.
either that, or my money's on a sticky parking brake bellcrank on that side. Crawl underneath and try to move it by hand... it should move freely (against spring pressure only). If it's hard to move, and doesn't spring back in by itself when you release the cable after pulling on it to apply the emerg brake, then you have to remove the bellcrank, take it apart, grind off the rust on the bellcrank arm, lube it, and re-assemble it to get it to work just like new.

The reason you have no problem going in reverse is likely because drum brakes are typically much less effective in reverse than going forward.

The other thing to check, is are you sure you are actually in 4x4 and that your front is pulling?

Last edited by GSGALLANT; 12-16-2008 at 09:00 AM.
Old 12-16-2008, 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by cackalak han
Running a lower pressure won't get you much better grip. It's more to do with your tire compound and siping.
Uhh, compound you say? Guess what happens to an overinflated tire when it's cold? The compound freezes! One that is underinflated keeps itself warm.
Old 12-16-2008, 11:02 AM
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good to see a number of opinions helping skovarik out with almost real time advice.

Please let us know what it is- when you discover for sure. I for one enjoy the learning process on a diagnosis like this.

Sorry to hear you are having trouble and make that T100 freeze outside a bit....

Last edited by Ron Helmuth; 12-16-2008 at 11:05 AM. Reason: spell the Original posters name correctly and take a swipe at the 100 while at it
Old 12-16-2008, 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by DailyDrive
Uhh, compound you say? Guess what happens to an overinflated tire when it's cold? The compound freezes! One that is underinflated keeps itself warm.
Who said anything about overinflating? Always keep it in the recommended PSI. Also, please expound on that theory of the freezing compound.

EDIT: Forgot to add that I'm running load range E, where it states that 80PSI is okay (though I'll never run it at that). On P-rated tires and C & D range, I run 32-40PSI. Never lower than 32, though.

Last edited by cackalak han; 12-16-2008 at 12:35 PM.
Old 12-16-2008, 12:22 PM
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Ron,
Having real-time responses on here really helped me out - what a great forum, I should have joined long ago. I will have to post some photos of my Runner soon, particularly after January off-roading with my co-worker 'lovetharunner'. Diagnosis is always interesting, although not preferred (that's why I bought a Toyota). I'd definitely rather do it to someone else's car, but I guess that's why I have two.

I will have to do an in-depth inspection on the braking system and the rear axles to make sure everything gets repaired, but I don't have time for it right now (must get the head replaced on the T-100 as soon as possible). I'm dying without my garage.

As for tire pressure, we get snow about once per year. 32-35 pounds gets the best traction and gas mileage in my Runner in all road conditions. In fact, when the brake wasn't locked up on the truck yesterday, it drove beautifully. I didn't even notice the inclement weather, just had to slow down to accommodate other drivers.

I'm jealous of your 4Runner Ron - if I could go back in time I would really, really want a '99 or '00 V6 5-speed with electronic locker. Maybe someday I will find a low-mileage manual transmission (and ECU?) to exchange into mine. I have 170K+ miles, maybe I should start looking now... I can't imagine how fun the thing would be with a 5-speed.

How do you like the Nitto tires? I am thinking of a 1.5" or 2.5" lift when my All-Terrain's wear out, and I will need some bigger tires. I was looking at Cooper Discoverer STT's in 265/75/16 or Mud-Terrain's.
Old 12-16-2008, 08:07 PM
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skov thanks very much-the 99s are fine with the 5speed. My bosses see me glancing out the window all day just admiring my ride. I am very proud to have such a fine vehicle, I really never dreamed a truck could be this nice to drive on an everyday basis. Still there is always some tweaking to do....

It may not be special to anyone really but me and that is just fine. It has the same quirky touches I do myself. Individiual and unique. Some would say weird.

We could all sure find you one if you want one bad enough....I noticed probably 10 Runners in the Auto Trader the other day course most of em were the &^%$ Limiteds...pffffftttt

The Nittos I like very much-RonMaiden pretty much convinced me as he is local to me and I respect his opinions. I gave them a try and I am running load range D and liking the ride and wear.

They do well on snow and ice and the limited amount of rain we ever get here. Pricewise they come in low and they hold up well to the boulder fields I have traversed off road.

For good 2nd and third opinons several of us are over on t4r.org as well and this forum is every bit as fine as that one.

cackalack han-it is always something is it not? I am playin' with ya-I will come out there one day and shake your hand. I did not get the compound deal either myself but I had to know when to say when.
Old 12-16-2008, 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by cackalak han
Who said anything about overinflating? Always keep it in the recommended PSI. Also, please expound on that theory of the freezing compound.

EDIT: Forgot to add that I'm running load range E, where it states that 80PSI is okay (though I'll never run it at that). On P-rated tires and C & D range, I run 32-40PSI. Never lower than 32, though.
Seriously... lets not jack this thread with another tire inflation debate.

Bump for a solution.
Old 12-17-2008, 03:19 AM
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Originally Posted by lovetharunner
Seriously... lets not jack this thread with another tire inflation debate.

Bump for a solution.
I agree about the tire inflation...

As far as the solution, I think it's in this thread already. He just has to go out to take a look and report back what his problem turned out being.
Old 12-17-2008, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by SKovarik
It was spinning fine when I was going down the freeway at 35-40. However, when I stopped both times, I could not get regain traction - no matter how much or little gas I gave it. That's why I ended up on top of the curb. The strangest part is that reverse was fine - maybe because the front wheels were doing the pushing? The tires are about 70% - should be enough to handle "moderate" snow.

The only mechanical oddity to the vehicle is a "stuck" feeling when first putting it into drive. The sequence is this - brake depressed, start truck, shift to D or R, release e-brake and pedal, slight "click" or "clunk", truck goes. Is my transmission on its way out? I just rolled over 171,000 mostly highway miles.

I would say the rear axle housing seal too. That is causing the shoe to swell and stick to the drum. The slippery ground is letting that tire stay stationary.

On a side note why do you press your brake when you start your truck? Why do you release your emergency brake only after shifting from park? Finally, why do you have your emergency brake on, are you parked on an incline or decline? Do you put your emergency brake on in bad weather and leave your car parked outside?

I would do this everytime: Get in your truck, 1)release emergency brake (if it is on from being on a hill, but never left on in snowy or icy conditions if your car is parked outside), 2) start car, 3) press brake and shift from park, and 4) release the brake and give your transmission a second before 5)stepping on the gas.

Last edited by DavidAlexander; 12-17-2008 at 12:14 PM.
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