Stevo3

heh, well sorry to sound like a dumb @#$% but no. :pat: dont even know what it is.

Stevo3

Nevermind about the free fmu mod. did a lil seaching and found out what it is. No i do not have that done, atleast i dont think so anyways. When it gets a lil lighter out here ill go have a look see.

Yota82

100 octane fuel in a S/C 3.4 isn't bad for it at all and would probably reduce pinging. Like someone said earlier the higher the octane the less likely it is to detonate. Higher octane= slower burn rate which allows the timing to run more advanced. It's really better overall. 100 octane doesn't mean it's more volitle as a matter of fact lower octane is more explosive. 87 is more explosive than 91. 100 octane won't burn up your engine. I think your pinging problem is that you supercharged a 96 and not a 97 and newer.

Stevo3

Supercharging a 96 is no different than supercharging a 97+ They boths have the same engine and brain. Its the leaning out that causes the pinging. Either way s/c a 97 you still need fuel mods aswell in my case a 96. If im not mistaken correct me if im wrong <96 Runner>.

Yota82

To the best of my knowlege the engine is the same but the computer on the 97+ is different. My dad bought a 96 tacoma brand new and there was talk about TRD coming out with a supercharger and when they did my dad wanted one but TRD told him that 97 was the first year that you could supercharge them because the computer would retard the timing too much and it would ping. I know this is a very controversal issue but everyone I know that has tries to S/C a 96 has had this issue.

Stevo3

Correct about the Tacoma. Something with the 96's computers it would not "learn" itself to compensate for the forced air.

But for the 96 4Runners, its a different story. It is the right computer that can indeed handle the S/C. Why that is i have no idea.

rimpainter.com

Well, there were definitely some years that handled supercharging better than others. 96's seem to be one of the worst unfortunately. Sucks, I know. Based on what I have read and heard, the 98's and up seem to do a little better, with the 99 - 01's doing really well. But by no means are they exempt from the HG/LR ping and WOT leanout. They all should have fuel/timing mods or at least be running some monitoring devices so the owners can see how lean they really are.

Want me to help you with that FMU mod? It's cake, but if you can't figure it out you can come wrench at my house sometime.

Stevo3

By what i have searched i think i can figure it out. The problem is the pics dont quite point it out exactly. i know i use the boost line with a T fitting on it, but there where does that line go to. I think i have an idea but i believe its already connected to something already. Is it right under the boost port on the GEN 1 (grey) S/C??? Ill brb, im going to go pop the hood right now.

rimpainter.com

Yeah, it's very easy. The line goes to the FPR and tricks into supplying maximum fuel. There is one drawback to this mod: your mpg will drop by about 2. At least that's what happened to me. After I got new injectors, I reversed the mod and my mpg back up to 17.5 mpg (from the low 15's).

So yes, the mod works, and it works pretty well. All things considered that is.

Stevo3

sheesh 2mpg thatll add up pretty fast for me. Guess its time to save up for the urd kit. Uhmm just looked, i cant see squat, i need to get home and get a step stool lol. first time tinkering under the hood since the lift. taller than i thought. i even scratched it a bit :pat: :cry: . itll be buffable though. Uhmm i for sure dont have the mod done. and cant even figure out where the line would go to??? i would have to get a better view to even see that FPR what ever the heck that is. And is there a line already connected to it, and if there is what do i do with it? plug it?

Would i need to have the new fuel pump for that mod ot work correctly? And what benifits would i gain from this mod? Better acceleration? Throtle response? Less pinging of coarse? any others?

Its a good thing i did look under the hood. The Big hose that goesfrom the intake tube down below the bypass valve area was undone??? time for a hose clamp.

rimpainter.com

I am almost certain this is what you want to connect, or T, the boost line to. I dug it up here on YT.



You can do this without the fuel pump, but it wont be as effective under certain conditions. You need to get that Walbro Fuel Pump in there to prevent a complete loss of power under sustained WOT conditions.

As for the pros of the FMU, well, you mentioned most of them already. There are some cheap countmeasures you can put in place in the meantime though, such as a colder thermostat, different coolant mixture, 2-step colder plugs, and of course the Free FMU mod.

Stevo3

Where is that section located under the hood? like center rear. driver rear? or pass rear??? Thats a good pic to reference off of, but it looks like there isnt a S/C on there so i can see exactly where that is located. and as for the hose that is already connected to it. do i just plug it?

bwhyit

Bite the bullet and buy the 7th injector kit. Your problem sounds like a pre-ignition problem and not detonation. Pre-ignition is caused by lean air fuel mixture and won’t be completely fixed by higher octane. Plus you’re not reaping the benefits of the SC without the extra fuel needed from the 7th injector.

rimpainter.com

That picture is facing the throttle body from the passenger side of the vehicle. And what you should be looking at is that shiney thing with a 90-degree bend coming off of it. That is what you want to ultimately connect to the boost port; either via a T if you have the boost guage, or directly if you don't. Do not cap it off.

Oh, and TRD has the Free FMU mod via their site on PDF. You should pull that up and print it off to help you with this mod since TRD took credit for Gadget's finding...

Stevo3

Alright that sums it up. When i get off of work today i will go buy a hose to connect it too. I already have the T fitting on there when I installed the boost gauge. Had a feeling they gave me a T for some special reason. And when it goes into vacume, it will not hurt the pressure regulator? or does that act as a one way valve too like the check valve under the TB?

And one more thing about your S/C. Do you have the first gen(grey) <96 Runner>? If you do, on the bypass valve when you do a quick WOT does your valve open fast? When i had bought mine from a buddy, the bypass valve was very loose. And i read on magnuson they have this factory preset, had to readjust it myself(whether i did it right or not i dont know). The reason i ask is because when i would do a quick WOT the gauge would jump to 0. wait a sec maybe 2 tops then begin boost. i looked at my buddies 2nd gen and when you mash the pedal really fast it flicks open like 10x faster than mine and jumps to boost immeadiatly. Im wondering if it may be a bad bypass valve. Or than again it may not be adjusted correctly???

And then this one goes out to anyone with S/C knowledge. Anyone know where to adjust the bypass valve? or would i be better off letting the stealership deal with it?

And i think its prolly about time for an overhaul on the beast. It has well over 150K on it. Oil changed regularly. (every 40-50k mi). I say this because yesterday after i got done from a WOT to shift or slow down, i would get a chirp/squeel. I know its the nose cone. it was loud to begin with.

rimpainter.com

No, it won't hurt anything. Just your mpg .

I have the 2nd gen.

My guess is that it isn't adjusted correctly. Mine goes into boost almost instantaneously.

Well based on what you said below about needing an overhaul, I would just send it out to Magnuson and let them take care of everything. Magnuson had great service and turnaround. I highly recommend them. I even have a feedback thread about them here on YT.

Stevo3

The only issue im going to have is putting the old plenum back on. I dont know where all the stock hoses go. Ive kinda been stauling on it, Its 700$ + shipping. And the downtime of my truck. Ive been kinda saving for the fuel mods. but guess im going to have to the more important thing first.

I was talking with a stand alone toyota/lexus specialist shop. and one of the tech in there mention something about them replacing the 1st gen with the 2nd gen even swap due to the issues with the first gen. Im going to have to make a call to them sometime, unless you have heard something about this too. If that is the case i would take the gen 2 over the 1st any second of the day. I like the look of it more. And you hear the whine of it more than the gears with the gen 1.

rimpainter.com

If I was you I would take the charger off, put it back to stock, and wait till I could afford the rebuild and fuel/timing mods. I know that's not what you want to hear, but seriously, that's what I would do. Especially with 150K miles.

Just my .02.

Stevo3

As i was sayin before i bought it used. I have only put 5k on it. I put it on with 97k mi. My engine is barly broken in . But have you heard anything of such a swap like that?

rimpainter.com

The sc'd donor rig I bought had 197K miles on it, 100K of them were supercharged. That thing pinged like a glass bottle full of marbles when I drove it home from CA.