drifterjones

the 4runner as running pretty good it just need the tps set to spec. because my 22re would sputter when reach 2500rpm with very little pressure on the gas petal. i had set it and it stopped the sputter but i didn't like the setting because throttle response was quick and sensitive. i had gotten used to it feeling more like a automatic trans when cruising in search of Ms. Future Baby's Mama so i tuned it back where i wanted it and just been putting up with the sputter. just recently i felt that i had lost power and gas mileage again. so i let the engine run while i checked for fuel leaks under my hood and found my fuel pressure dampener started to leak real nasty like (this did not set well in my gut because it was leaking all over the starter). the local toyota parts department wanted $120 for it. that seemed like way too much so i planed on getting one from the junk yard instead but first i jammed the little hole it was leaking from with jb weld. it wanted to work but it still leak like crazy. but soon after that failed i was killing time looking at some one's engine build up thread and notice that they a regular looking bolt in place where i had my leaky mushroom bolt. so i asked the parts department about it and i was told that the newer 22re had a fuel system that work differently and didn't need a dampener on the fuel rail the way mine did. next i asked them what would happen if didn't have it and they said they were not sure but it wouldn't be good for the motor. i really didn't like that answer and decided that i really wanted to find out exactly how bad this would be on the motor before i spent money on anything because i had wasted so much money last time i lost power. (i think our last president said it best "fool me once, shame on you, you fool me, we can't get fool again") i did my homework but did really find a straight answer either so i got the bolt and washers for the newer 22re fuel rail and bought a cool air fuel ratio gauge. everything looks to be working as it should ( the gauge looks crazy when i make the motor sputter) but i still need to buy a fuel pressure gauge to feel 100% certain that you don't need a dampener. i think because all the injectors open at the same time and the fuel pump pulses accordingly that i might see spastic drops in fuel pressure at high rev as a resolute of no dampening helping to regulate fuel pressure. but i only spent $10 for the bolt and washers from the toyota parts department and i got my power and gas mileage is back to normal. so in the end i only got what i paid for and I'm lucky someone made a entertaining build up thread because i don't really want to fix anything other than leaks right now.

drifterjones

here some pictures of the bolt and where the fuel filter ended up

drifterjones

oh and the tps is not easy to remove until the throttle body is off. just keep in mind that it has coolant running through it and you have to convert the fillip head screw to some kind of bolt if you want it to be easy to tune while the throttle body is still on. also i don't think the fuel dampener will ever go out if you keep the fuel filter clean. i believe that the only reason mine when bad was because my 4runner was not used for over 4years letting the gas in the tank and in the fuel lines to go bad and that in turn clogged everything in my fuel system. that mixed with the fact that i red line every gear almost every time destroyed it (but not 5th because i have not found it to be physically possible). if you should choose to relocate your fuel filter beware if you live in a colder part of the world than i do because i have had the check engine light come on and tell me that my fuel was too cold before i even moved it from the stock location. (i was up in the hills over by where the 8 meets the 79)

drifterjones

my valve cover was leaking so i decided i would add a little silicone to the gasket. unfortunately some had beat me to that idea years ago because it had a bunch already and the gasket it self was hard and the little half moon thingies were warped. so i got a new valve cover gasket set for $15 at autozone along with hand cleaner/shop towel deal they had for $3 and some brake cleaner that was also $3. i planned on painting the valve cover with some high temp old ford blue paint i got from a friend who had it for too long and was worried it had gone bad. i was willing to take my chances with it because i had a few spare spray tips for the can.( i did end up needing them too) my entire valve cover had a nice even layer of nasty. it easily had a 1/4 inch of road grim, mud, sand, horse crap dust, oil and hot sauce (from when i ate a California burrito on top of it back when i had the injectors out over a year ago). so i got a scuff pad (very similar to the ruff side of a sponge) and sprayed it with the brake cleaner as i wiped the nastiness off. it work pretty damn good but after a certain point i was just smearing the same crap i just took off back on to it so decided to sand the rest off with 80 grit sanding paper and then over again with 150 grit. thats were i made my mistake. i took forever to do and it wasn't doing much for the oil stains so i got a new scuff pad and put some hand cleaner on it. this worked great on the oil stains but seemed to just smear them around. so next i wet a shop towel with warm water and wiped it down with a lot of pressure. i did that real good 3 times over until i was bored with it. it did the job and i was tried of messing with it so i let it dry in the sun and taped up the holes. i did one nice even not to thick coat and an let it dry in the sun for an hour before spraying a thick second coat. the scratches i had made with the sanding paper did show through the paint but it don't look too bad. as for the removal and installation of the valve cover i simply removed all bolts on it, unplugged the two lines the go to the distributor and the plug going to the coil and folded everything over the intake manifold. i had to completely remove the two breather hoses from both ends and spin the four rubber gasket washer thingies off the studs. the heater hoses next to the firewall are only there to give you a hard time. your going to have to hold them out of the way some how because the valve cover demands you hold it with two hand at all times. i have reason to believe i did not get the valve cover clean enough for the paint to stick to it like it should. so next time i do this I'm going to *-spray it with engine degreaser *-then use the scuff pad with hand cleaner *-then wiped that off with warm water shop towel and *-then use the brake cleaner by its self before taping the holes *-then the warm water shop towel again this time much less water *-then spray the paint on evenly five times with about ten minutes between coats plus start and finish all steps with cleaner hands then you normally eat with. the trick i think will be to get it clean and dry between each step. that and no sanding paper unless its finished with 400 grit or higher. pictures coming soon so prepare your self to be jealous (enough to want to paint yours this weekend).

drifterjones

never mind i just wrecked the paint with brake cleaner trying to clean the underside a little better. i would not touch the under side for/with anything if i were you. i think i should have used throttle body cleaner instead. I'm going to try that tomorrow. wish me luck