ChefYota4x4's 1987 4Runner Build-Up Thread
05-05-2010, 10:25 AM
#41
Ok, had the thread moved(THANKS, COREY, ...and whomever moved it! YOTATECH-TECHS ROCK!LOL)
I'm working with Ted at Engine Builder to figure out the best set up for my uses. He's saying 268 Cam, beefy valves and springs with my LCE 4-1 Y-type Stainless header, and proper clearance for that head set up, ......(still waiting to see what he says about the Cold Air Set up), a Decent but NOT CRAZY Torque-monster clutch kit, .....and I I should be good to go!
MAN I'm looking forward to putting this all back together! No, really, I'm not crazy...I just love a puzzle I guess. Must be the "I CAN FIX IT, DAD" in me still floating around in my brain! lol.
I'm working with Ted at Engine Builder to figure out the best set up for my uses. He's saying 268 Cam, beefy valves and springs with my LCE 4-1 Y-type Stainless header, and proper clearance for that head set up, ......(still waiting to see what he says about the Cold Air Set up), a Decent but NOT CRAZY Torque-monster clutch kit, .....and I I should be good to go!
MAN I'm looking forward to putting this all back together! No, really, I'm not crazy...I just love a puzzle I guess. Must be the "I CAN FIX IT, DAD" in me still floating around in my brain! lol.
05-05-2010, 05:07 PM
#44
Thanks, guys!
I'm thinking of putting a hitch carrier on it. I really don't want to do a "4runner-rack", unless I can buy one welded. hahaha. Not a welder...so there you have it. I can weld caster slots so I can wheel it around, and I figured it'd free up some space and allow me to drop my gear while locking it up
.
Went to China Freight, eh chemmmm, ...I mean, Harbor Freight, today, and they have a 500lb hitch-rack for 59$, on sale right now. Not bad! I was looking at the High Lifts, and decided after all that I'm doing, ....NAHHHH, I'ma go with the "High Lift" brand. Much better built.
I'm trying to figure out which lift to go with, to get the 32x11.5's on there, but realized......I'm not sure I can get those tires on the stock alloy wheels. I think they're 7'' rims. Hmmmmmmm. Wabbit pointed me to a 2'' lift, which is probably all I need(just to get the sag outta there and getter up a lil bit for tire clearance). However, that's an add-a-leaf, and MAN, my springs are ALMOST FLAT in the rear! Wonder if I should just replace the spring-pack, all together, then put the rest of the WabFab stuff/or Zuk?
Oh well, I think I'll sit back and do some more research. My friend had a pro-comp kit on his 85EFI Long bed 4x4, NICEEEEE TRUCK, and he LOVED IT, and it was tight for the 5 years he owned it. But, I think if I did that, people from this site would stone me to death and hang me up at some Yotatech Rally! lol. Jk
I'm thinking of putting a hitch carrier on it. I really don't want to do a "4runner-rack", unless I can buy one welded. hahaha. Not a welder...so there you have it. I can weld caster slots so I can wheel it around, and I figured it'd free up some space and allow me to drop my gear while locking it up
. Went to China Freight, eh chemmmm, ...I mean, Harbor Freight, today, and they have a 500lb hitch-rack for 59$, on sale right now. Not bad! I was looking at the High Lifts, and decided after all that I'm doing, ....NAHHHH, I'ma go with the "High Lift" brand. Much better built.
I'm trying to figure out which lift to go with, to get the 32x11.5's on there, but realized......I'm not sure I can get those tires on the stock alloy wheels. I think they're 7'' rims. Hmmmmmmm. Wabbit pointed me to a 2'' lift, which is probably all I need(just to get the sag outta there and getter up a lil bit for tire clearance). However, that's an add-a-leaf, and MAN, my springs are ALMOST FLAT in the rear! Wonder if I should just replace the spring-pack, all together, then put the rest of the WabFab stuff/or Zuk?
Oh well, I think I'll sit back and do some more research. My friend had a pro-comp kit on his 85EFI Long bed 4x4, NICEEEEE TRUCK, and he LOVED IT, and it was tight for the 5 years he owned it. But, I think if I did that, people from this site would stone me to death and hang me up at some Yotatech Rally! lol. Jk
05-05-2010, 06:08 PM
#45
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You could always do a block lift in the rear and crank your torsion bars up a little, that would definately let you clear 32s, its exactly what I did, and after some wheel-well trimming, the tires didn't rub at all. HOWEVER, a block lift and torsion bar crank, won't improve your ride too much, even with longer shocks.
A torsion bar crank and coil springs in the rear, would help out your ride quality a LOT, all you have to do to get lift with the coil springs is get 14" springs instead of 12". the 12inch springs will still reverse the sag of your leafs and improve ride quality, but only put you at stock hieght. the 14" springs will do all that, but give you 2-3inches of lift. If you go that route, don't forget to get longer than stock shocks for the front and back.
to get anything more serious, you'll either have to get an actual lift kit, which is just silly. or you could just do a solid axle swap and be able to clear 33s easily. OR, you could get a blazeland or Total Chaos long travel front suspension and still easily clear 33s. The good thing about those kits is the coils in the rear will still keep your truck good and even, there are several options for the rear suspension too though, like using longer shackles, or using chevy or deaver leaf packs.
Anyway, hope this helps out a little. Your good with engines and not so much with suspension. I'm the complete opposite, LOL
A torsion bar crank and coil springs in the rear, would help out your ride quality a LOT, all you have to do to get lift with the coil springs is get 14" springs instead of 12". the 12inch springs will still reverse the sag of your leafs and improve ride quality, but only put you at stock hieght. the 14" springs will do all that, but give you 2-3inches of lift. If you go that route, don't forget to get longer than stock shocks for the front and back.
to get anything more serious, you'll either have to get an actual lift kit, which is just silly. or you could just do a solid axle swap and be able to clear 33s easily. OR, you could get a blazeland or Total Chaos long travel front suspension and still easily clear 33s. The good thing about those kits is the coils in the rear will still keep your truck good and even, there are several options for the rear suspension too though, like using longer shackles, or using chevy or deaver leaf packs.
Anyway, hope this helps out a little. Your good with engines and not so much with suspension. I'm the complete opposite, LOL
05-05-2010, 10:06 PM
#46
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Looks like you got the LCE header....did you look at their Pro Flow Exhaust (uses Magnaflow muffler and 3" tip).
I like mine together - finally got them welded up. My CAT is almost 100% clogged though I passed smog this past year (before the header install).
I like mine together - finally got them welded up. My CAT is almost 100% clogged though I passed smog this past year (before the header install).
05-05-2010, 11:49 PM
#47
Thanks, Moze! Yeah, it helps, ...I mean, can't hurt to get as many peoples experiences as possible, weigh things out(price, comfort, practicality for my use) and then go from there, yahhhhhknow? lol. Thanks, I appreciate it, man, big time. I'll probly do the coils for now, but then I'd think that would make it a Dego, no? hahaha. So, I'll do the coils(or new quality leaf pack), tall-shocks if I go with the coil, and some type of kit for the front to go with it?
Hey, Phil, a FELLOW COLLIFOWNIAN! LOL. You know, I didn't even notice the exhaust 'PACKAGE' in their site, ...and I spoke to the guy many times, but when I bought the header, he included the pipes to the CAT, but after that, ...nope. I think I'll go high flow CAT, a good muffler(Magnaflow, eh?) and I already have 2.5 out the back, so I should be good. Then, around April, next year, I'll break out the Old CAT, slap it on and give myself a better chance at passing smog.
I've decided against going all crazy with the head, other than a cam and all new TOP OF THE LINE EVERYTHING else....The machinist is TOP NOTCH, and he rebuilds for many top end shops in Cali, ...so I'm going to trust him on the 'to do's' for the most part....and he knows already that I'd like to get as much life out of this as possible with a lil more 'umph', mainly on hills, not 'AIR BORN STUFF' LIKE MOZE UP THERE! lol. I'm also not going to do an AFM/Batt. swap...not at this time. I'm going to increase the flow a bit, and I'm trying to plan out something for that......I'll put it all up here when I get it figured. I've always actually had great torque off the line, and I'm not sure there's not a cam in there, already, hahaha. So we'll see on that, too.
By the way, Phil....you like your Zuk's?
Hey, Phil, a FELLOW COLLIFOWNIAN! LOL. You know, I didn't even notice the exhaust 'PACKAGE' in their site, ...and I spoke to the guy many times, but when I bought the header, he included the pipes to the CAT, but after that, ...nope. I think I'll go high flow CAT, a good muffler(Magnaflow, eh?) and I already have 2.5 out the back, so I should be good. Then, around April, next year, I'll break out the Old CAT, slap it on and give myself a better chance at passing smog.
I've decided against going all crazy with the head, other than a cam and all new TOP OF THE LINE EVERYTHING else....The machinist is TOP NOTCH, and he rebuilds for many top end shops in Cali, ...so I'm going to trust him on the 'to do's' for the most part....and he knows already that I'd like to get as much life out of this as possible with a lil more 'umph', mainly on hills, not 'AIR BORN STUFF' LIKE MOZE UP THERE! lol. I'm also not going to do an AFM/Batt. swap...not at this time. I'm going to increase the flow a bit, and I'm trying to plan out something for that......I'll put it all up here when I get it figured. I've always actually had great torque off the line, and I'm not sure there's not a cam in there, already, hahaha. So we'll see on that, too.
By the way, Phil....you like your Zuk's?
05-06-2010, 06:43 AM
#48
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Thanks, Moze! Yeah, it helps, ...I mean, can't hurt to get as many peoples experiences as possible, weigh things out(price, comfort, practicality for my use) and then go from there, yahhhhhknow? lol. Thanks, I appreciate it, man, big time. I'll probly do the coils for now, but then I'd think that would make it a Dego, no? hahaha. So, I'll do the coils(or new quality leaf pack), tall-shocks if I go with the coil, and some type of kit for the front to go with it?
Hey, Phil, a FELLOW COLLIFOWNIAN! LOL. You know, I didn't even notice the exhaust 'PACKAGE' in their site, ...and I spoke to the guy many times, but when I bought the header, he included the pipes to the CAT, but after that, ...nope. I think I'll go high flow CAT, a good muffler(Magnaflow, eh?) and I already have 2.5 out the back, so I should be good. Then, around April, next year, I'll break out the Old CAT, slap it on and give myself a better chance at passing smog.
I've decided against going all crazy with the head, other than a cam and all new TOP OF THE LINE EVERYTHING else....The machinist is TOP NOTCH, and he rebuilds for many top end shops in Cali, ...so I'm going to trust him on the 'to do's' for the most part....and he knows already that I'd like to get as much life out of this as possible with a lil more 'umph', mainly on hills, not 'AIR BORN STUFF' LIKE MOZE UP THERE! lol. I'm also not going to do an AFM/Batt. swap...not at this time. I'm going to increase the flow a bit, and I'm trying to plan out something for that......I'll put it all up here when I get it figured. I've always actually had great torque off the line, and I'm not sure there's not a cam in there, already, hahaha. So we'll see on that, too.
By the way, Phil....you like your Zuk's?
Hey, Phil, a FELLOW COLLIFOWNIAN! LOL. You know, I didn't even notice the exhaust 'PACKAGE' in their site, ...and I spoke to the guy many times, but when I bought the header, he included the pipes to the CAT, but after that, ...nope. I think I'll go high flow CAT, a good muffler(Magnaflow, eh?) and I already have 2.5 out the back, so I should be good. Then, around April, next year, I'll break out the Old CAT, slap it on and give myself a better chance at passing smog.
I've decided against going all crazy with the head, other than a cam and all new TOP OF THE LINE EVERYTHING else....The machinist is TOP NOTCH, and he rebuilds for many top end shops in Cali, ...so I'm going to trust him on the 'to do's' for the most part....and he knows already that I'd like to get as much life out of this as possible with a lil more 'umph', mainly on hills, not 'AIR BORN STUFF' LIKE MOZE UP THERE! lol. I'm also not going to do an AFM/Batt. swap...not at this time. I'm going to increase the flow a bit, and I'm trying to plan out something for that......I'll put it all up here when I get it figured. I've always actually had great torque off the line, and I'm not sure there's not a cam in there, already, hahaha. So we'll see on that, too.
By the way, Phil....you like your Zuk's?
I like the ZUK mod - it groans a bit here and there but I think that's because I left a lot of the bump stop in there and it's just extra friction. The ride is smoother for sure. I may get some longer shackles to give it more a "raked" look to it (I had to drop the front by adjusting the Torsion bars and now the front rides a little harsh for my tastes.
Here is the LCE system I was talking about. It requires some cutting to fit, and you'll want to get the slip joints welded due to leaks you can't avoid:
http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGe...D-9288C800EE01
I'd be wary of putting on a CAT that's been "sitting" - I hear the need to be used to stay effective and sitting idle for months or more can effectively ruin them...and that's not something you want to mess with here in CA....
05-06-2010, 07:09 AM
#49
Registered User
I'm wondering what you guys think on a few things....however, I'm not getting many hits, so I'll just fish the web as well. What I'm wondering is, ..."Is it best to stick with a factory type clutch? The one I pulled out is a good one, but I'm going to have the flywheel done, and I might as well replace the clutch--pressure plat, disc and bearing(150k minimum on all three)"
I'm also hoping to hear some personal experiences with some things....So I'll fish around on here for "Air Intake Systems", "Throttle Body Kits-Are they worth it?", "WHAT IS THE BEST way to lift my truck a lil bit without TOO much money,....but not cheap. I'm talking the '400.00 to 1200.00 range', depending on what I can get for what."
I know there is stuff on here, but I just get, oh what is that saying I love so much....."LOST IN A SEA OF SUB-FORUMS!", so any thoughts-shared would be greatly appreciated.
I'm also hoping to hear some personal experiences with some things....So I'll fish around on here for "Air Intake Systems", "Throttle Body Kits-Are they worth it?", "WHAT IS THE BEST way to lift my truck a lil bit without TOO much money,....but not cheap. I'm talking the '400.00 to 1200.00 range', depending on what I can get for what."
I know there is stuff on here, but I just get, oh what is that saying I love so much....."LOST IN A SEA OF SUB-FORUMS!", so any thoughts-shared would be greatly appreciated.
Link, scroll down to the middle of the page
http://www.rocky-road.com/4runner.html
Last edited by yotarob2005; 05-06-2010 at 07:18 AM.
05-06-2010, 08:42 AM
#50
Thanks, Rob! I appreciate any input I can get....and you know how it is, "NO, this way is best!!!" LOL. I like the Zuk coils too, and I'd bet that they'd help give life to the new Leaf Pack. However, I don't do desert-prerunner-airborn stuff like Koze, lol, so I'm not sure I need the kinda kit he's doing, ....as an example of 'different strokes for different folks', ya know?
So, this one is the one you're talking about? ..........
86-89 4Runner Complete Kit;
4runner OME Suspension:
Includes F&R Shocks, Front Torsion bars, Rear springs,
Bushings, Steering Dampener
So, this one is the one you're talking about? ..........
86-89 4Runner Complete Kit;
4runner OME Suspension:
Includes F&R Shocks, Front Torsion bars, Rear springs,
Bushings, Steering Dampener
05-06-2010, 09:04 AM
#51
Registered User
Thanks, Rob! I appreciate any input I can get....and you know how it is, "NO, this way is best!!!" LOL. I like the Zuk coils too, and I'd bet that they'd help give life to the new Leaf Pack. However, I don't do desert-prerunner-airborn stuff like Koze, lol, so I'm not sure I need the kinda kit he's doing, ....as an example of 'different strokes for different folks', ya know?
So, this one is the one you're talking about? ..........
86-89 4Runner Complete Kit;
4runner OME Suspension:
Includes F&R Shocks, Front Torsion bars, Rear springs,
Bushings, Steering Dampener
So, this one is the one you're talking about? ..........
86-89 4Runner Complete Kit;
4runner OME Suspension:
Includes F&R Shocks, Front Torsion bars, Rear springs,
Bushings, Steering Dampener
The Zuk coils are going to lift the rear & probablly give a good ride on the street, I am considering them myself, but for my rig, I think they would be a limiting factor in compression travel. I would op for the replacement springs, but the price of the Zuk coils is much nicer.
05-06-2010, 02:15 PM
#52
Called OME, ...they said, "Keep in mind, we make them to order, so wait time is at least 2 weeks".....EH? lol. Jk, I understand, but that would defeat my idea of having it in before I get the block back! hahaha.
I have read MANY good reviews on that set up. Seems mostly Jeep people use it, very common....but in Aussie, I KNOW Toy's are the 'Truck'o'Choice'!!!!!! My friends out there, just got one of those 85 Body SFA, EFI, 4 DOOR! Man do you pay more out there, though.....from what he tells me anyway. Thing is SWEET THOGH. I'ma try and get some pics from him that I can actually copy and paste to my photobucket.
Anyway, yeah, for the price, I think I'd rather do the 'Suspension REDO', rather than just getting her up a lil like with some other brands. Man, so many good Fabricators, so lil time!!!!!! The OME with steering Stab., Bushings, Leaf Packs, Torsion Bars, and I can't remember what else, but it was more, 900 or so, just like you said. But man, to be able to not punish my kidneys would be nice, and I don't want to just add a few things to get it up, like i said, ...then have to do more later on in the not to distant future. Ya know?
Nice talkin to you, Man. Looks like you have a die hard trail beater there! I LIKEY!
I have read MANY good reviews on that set up. Seems mostly Jeep people use it, very common....but in Aussie, I KNOW Toy's are the 'Truck'o'Choice'!!!!!! My friends out there, just got one of those 85 Body SFA, EFI, 4 DOOR! Man do you pay more out there, though.....from what he tells me anyway. Thing is SWEET THOGH. I'ma try and get some pics from him that I can actually copy and paste to my photobucket.
Anyway, yeah, for the price, I think I'd rather do the 'Suspension REDO', rather than just getting her up a lil like with some other brands. Man, so many good Fabricators, so lil time!!!!!! The OME with steering Stab., Bushings, Leaf Packs, Torsion Bars, and I can't remember what else, but it was more, 900 or so, just like you said. But man, to be able to not punish my kidneys would be nice, and I don't want to just add a few things to get it up, like i said, ...then have to do more later on in the not to distant future. Ya know?
Nice talkin to you, Man. Looks like you have a die hard trail beater there! I LIKEY!
05-06-2010, 03:24 PM
#53
Registered User
I would say do it right even if you have to wait an extra week or 2. Another way to look at it would be that putting a lift on a truck before the motor was in would make it harder to reach over to work on the motor. Toyotec has a 2" kit for less than $250, it is ball joint spacers & AAL, but if your leaves are shot then I doubt the AAL would save your spine any.
Sure is a nice clean truck you have, I really like it! Mine is just as you say, a trail beater. It's not even street legal, LOL.
Sure is a nice clean truck you have, I really like it! Mine is just as you say, a trail beater. It's not even street legal, LOL.
05-06-2010, 11:34 PM
#54
Well, I'm bored, so I thought I'd post some more pics, lol........
I've been cleaning EVERY nut and bolt and bracket and arm and ...well, you get the point.
Now, before and after on the bracket.....
Before....
After......
I just can't stand the thought of getting one SPEC of grease on my hands when putting this spotless engine back in! Ok, I'll get a lil dirty, but you kwim! lol.
Question; As you can see, I've cleaned the outside of the IACV, ...but is there a way to clean the inside? I keep reading there is, ...but can't find a thread/article on it!
Question; Does anyone have a link on the best way to clean the EGR and Modulator?
Thanks, guys, and I hope you've enjoyed my useless pictures of my clean parts and painted ones! hahaha
Night, the Chef must CRASH!
I've been cleaning EVERY nut and bolt and bracket and arm and ...well, you get the point.
Now, before and after on the bracket.....
Before....
After......
I just can't stand the thought of getting one SPEC of grease on my hands when putting this spotless engine back in! Ok, I'll get a lil dirty, but you kwim! lol.
Question; As you can see, I've cleaned the outside of the IACV, ...but is there a way to clean the inside? I keep reading there is, ...but can't find a thread/article on it!
Question; Does anyone have a link on the best way to clean the EGR and Modulator?
Thanks, guys, and I hope you've enjoyed my useless pictures of my clean parts and painted ones! hahaha
Night, the Chef must CRASH!
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 05-06-2010 at 11:37 PM.
05-07-2010, 04:36 AM
#55
Registered User
Your clean parts look real good. I did the same thing while my motor was out. I really can't ansewer your question about the IAC, but the EGR I just wire brushed the hell out of it & & painted it with some Black VHT flame proof paint.
05-07-2010, 11:37 AM
#57
Thanks, Rob, ....I guess I'm wondering with the EGR....Do I just clean it as is, not broken down at all?(With the pipes still on there?), cuz they are rusted on there pretty good, but I can't see being able to clean it well with that 8" pipe to the block still attached,....maybe with the other one.
PHIL, how's it goin, man? I swear, everytime I see your ID Photo, ....I'm not sure whether to RUN, or laugh, haha. It could be misconstrued as "YES, this is my s-eatin grin that I display when I'm about to GRIND YER FACE OFF!".....jkjk, I really admire your "FABBIN" skills. I really need to practice up on that stuff, to avoid having to pay THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS to put in something that costs hundreds! LOL. To answer your question about the 'cleaning stuff up'; I tried to use engine cleaner on certain things....It worked on the mounts and bell-h brackets to the rear of the block-to-BHousing, after AN HOUR IT WORKED, lol. So, I went out to my 'Parts and Chemicals Bin', lol, and I found a gallon of "Gunk" parts cleaner with XL Basket. After soaking them for about 2 minutes, I used my heavy gauge parts cleaning gloves, a set of brushes(Brass, Steel and Nylon), a couple wire reamers and some scrapers/mini-screwdrivers, etc.
Have a question, guys(YES, ANOTHER ONE, LOL);
I'm doing a new clutch, while I have it out. I'm having this ACE Machinist do a mild grind on my cam, all new high end EVERYTHING lower end, including a replacement crank(YES, ...mine had a TOTALLY grooved out/slotted key hole...NOT GOOD!), completely new top end for the cam, new steel timing chain kit(I had it already), new Rock Oil Pump, and he's balancing and blueprinting my motor/flywheel, etc., etc.,....and I'm wondering, should I just replace the mounts, now? And, should I include the rear/tranny mount?....if so, where to get them(would an OEM quality set be fine?).
I've also been surfing Toyota of Carson, CA's website(it's a dealer, but they've partnered up with a parts dealer, and we can get all Toyota OEM parts for like 40% less, at least in some cases. Should I consider just replacing the EGR and modulator, or do they just need regular cleaning? I'm checking that site out, because, if I need replacement TPS, etc., I'm going to use them...they're a chuck cheaper.(Lil Story...I printed out the price from their site, Carson Toyota, and took it to my more "local" dealer, ....they matched the price! I paid 130 for an O2 from behind the counter, instead of 186!..........Just a tip for my friends here on YT! ....Here's the link....
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=214915
I'm not trying to just 'replace everything', guys, I promise....Just curious about some things that might be better off replaced than 'cleaned out'. And, well, I HAVE NO IDEA on the EGR, Etc....including the Modulator. The Smog guy I know said, "YES, clean out the EGR, but NOT the Modulator..it's built differently, and doesn't benefit much from cleaning...and well,it can EASILY be destroyed. I have nothing against buying used parts, especially AFM's, ...stuff like that that run 500$
Also, someone, I believe 'Tried', gave me a link to cleaning the CAT....anyone tried that? Like I said, I'm not even sure how to check if it's clogged. I look in there, and with a light behind it, it looks like a lot of light radius...but I can't be sure, ...any ideas on testing it, etc.?
PHIL, how's it goin, man? I swear, everytime I see your ID Photo, ....I'm not sure whether to RUN, or laugh, haha. It could be misconstrued as "YES, this is my s-eatin grin that I display when I'm about to GRIND YER FACE OFF!".....jkjk, I really admire your "FABBIN" skills. I really need to practice up on that stuff, to avoid having to pay THOUSANDS OF DOLLARS to put in something that costs hundreds! LOL. To answer your question about the 'cleaning stuff up'; I tried to use engine cleaner on certain things....It worked on the mounts and bell-h brackets to the rear of the block-to-BHousing, after AN HOUR IT WORKED, lol. So, I went out to my 'Parts and Chemicals Bin', lol, and I found a gallon of "Gunk" parts cleaner with XL Basket. After soaking them for about 2 minutes, I used my heavy gauge parts cleaning gloves, a set of brushes(Brass, Steel and Nylon), a couple wire reamers and some scrapers/mini-screwdrivers, etc.
Have a question, guys(YES, ANOTHER ONE, LOL);
I'm doing a new clutch, while I have it out. I'm having this ACE Machinist do a mild grind on my cam, all new high end EVERYTHING lower end, including a replacement crank(YES, ...mine had a TOTALLY grooved out/slotted key hole...NOT GOOD!), completely new top end for the cam, new steel timing chain kit(I had it already), new Rock Oil Pump, and he's balancing and blueprinting my motor/flywheel, etc., etc.,....and I'm wondering, should I just replace the mounts, now? And, should I include the rear/tranny mount?....if so, where to get them(would an OEM quality set be fine?).
I've also been surfing Toyota of Carson, CA's website(it's a dealer, but they've partnered up with a parts dealer, and we can get all Toyota OEM parts for like 40% less, at least in some cases. Should I consider just replacing the EGR and modulator, or do they just need regular cleaning? I'm checking that site out, because, if I need replacement TPS, etc., I'm going to use them...they're a chuck cheaper.(Lil Story...I printed out the price from their site, Carson Toyota, and took it to my more "local" dealer, ....they matched the price! I paid 130 for an O2 from behind the counter, instead of 186!..........Just a tip for my friends here on YT!
....Here's the link....http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=214915
I'm not trying to just 'replace everything', guys, I promise....Just curious about some things that might be better off replaced than 'cleaned out'. And, well, I HAVE NO IDEA on the EGR, Etc....including the Modulator. The Smog guy I know said, "YES, clean out the EGR, but NOT the Modulator..it's built differently, and doesn't benefit much from cleaning...and well,it can EASILY be destroyed. I have nothing against buying used parts, especially AFM's, ...stuff like that that run 500$
Also, someone, I believe 'Tried', gave me a link to cleaning the CAT....anyone tried that? Like I said, I'm not even sure how to check if it's clogged. I look in there, and with a light behind it, it looks like a lot of light radius...but I can't be sure, ...any ideas on testing it, etc.?
05-07-2010, 01:46 PM
#58
Registered User
Sorry but I can't help you with the cat, mine has been deleted by the PO.
Factory mounts should be just fine, yours lasted this long right? If they are not visablly bad, I wouldn't replace them at all.
Factory mounts should be just fine, yours lasted this long right? If they are not visablly bad, I wouldn't replace them at all.
05-08-2010, 10:33 PM
#59
Ok, so I could use some advice, regarding 3 short things. I got under my truck and noticed that behind the CAT, the pipe is MAX-1.75"-OD......then the muffler(with a CRAPPY ASS weld.....I'll post pics tomorrow), then 2.5" pipe from Muffler to Exhaust tip(3")
So;
1. Seeing that I'm installing an LCE Header-CAT-Back kit, but from CAT to Muffler it's 1.75, then 2.5 after muffler(LCE is 2.25 I believe, from collector to CAT)...should I replace that section of pipe from the CAT to muffler?(The rest from muffler on is fine, just a lil rusty)....Andddddddddd, If I replace just that 14" or so piece of pipe with 2.25, how much should I pay a Muffler guy to weld it on?
2. My CAT, I believe, is original, but can't be sure. Either way, it's got a min. of 150k on it and max of 260k, if it's orig...... HOW IN THE HELL can I find out for sure if it's needing replacement? I don't want to cause any backflow with a fresh motor, ya know? Can a Muffler shop test it off the vehicle?....or does it need to be tested through the o2 slot? Just trying to avoid adding another 208$ for a CA Legal Magnaflow from Autopartswarehouse(I believe it's the same CAT that LCE is selling for 299$) I passed smog, but that's not necessarily meaning that my CAT isn't 75%(or whatever) clogged, is it?
3. My alternator is completely filled with oil and stuff from about 2 years of severe leaking. I don't think I need a SUPER-ALTERNATOR, lol...as I don't use tons of Juice-Suckers....so I don't mind just swapping it at Autopartswarehouse or something for 100$ or so....but is it fine to just take this one in and have it rebuilt?...And how much would I pay for that? ...Can't remember, been too long.
Sorry for the stupid questions, but I'm just no expert on some of this stuff, and I'd really appreciate the help, as I need to get this system on asap, after installing the engine this coming week. Any advice or technical input?
So;
1. Seeing that I'm installing an LCE Header-CAT-Back kit, but from CAT to Muffler it's 1.75, then 2.5 after muffler(LCE is 2.25 I believe, from collector to CAT)...should I replace that section of pipe from the CAT to muffler?(The rest from muffler on is fine, just a lil rusty)....Andddddddddd, If I replace just that 14" or so piece of pipe with 2.25, how much should I pay a Muffler guy to weld it on?
2. My CAT, I believe, is original, but can't be sure. Either way, it's got a min. of 150k on it and max of 260k, if it's orig...... HOW IN THE HELL can I find out for sure if it's needing replacement? I don't want to cause any backflow with a fresh motor, ya know? Can a Muffler shop test it off the vehicle?....or does it need to be tested through the o2 slot? Just trying to avoid adding another 208$ for a CA Legal Magnaflow from Autopartswarehouse(I believe it's the same CAT that LCE is selling for 299$) I passed smog, but that's not necessarily meaning that my CAT isn't 75%(or whatever) clogged, is it?
3. My alternator is completely filled with oil and stuff from about 2 years of severe leaking. I don't think I need a SUPER-ALTERNATOR, lol...as I don't use tons of Juice-Suckers....so I don't mind just swapping it at Autopartswarehouse or something for 100$ or so....but is it fine to just take this one in and have it rebuilt?...And how much would I pay for that? ...Can't remember, been too long.
Sorry for the stupid questions, but I'm just no expert on some of this stuff, and I'd really appreciate the help, as I need to get this system on asap, after installing the engine this coming week. Any advice or technical input?
Last edited by ChefYota4x4; 05-08-2010 at 10:36 PM.
05-13-2010, 04:35 PM
#60
Registered User
Chef wheres the new pics I'm getting anxious!!!
P.S. I noticed you removed your TPS....was it not working properly?
Oh yeah and I would get your alternator rebuilt, should be around $60, and if your cat is original, definitely replace it lol dont know how much they charge for that sort of stuff in your neck of the woods....
P.S. I noticed you removed your TPS....was it not working properly?
Oh yeah and I would get your alternator rebuilt, should be around $60, and if your cat is original, definitely replace it lol dont know how much they charge for that sort of stuff in your neck of the woods....
