jaredbishop

I just picked up this 1987 4Runner, Manual 5 Speed 22RE 200k miles. It is not running so I'll be doing a complete rebuild on it. Engine does not run. I'll post more picture latter. For 2 Years this will be my daily driver so I'm going to see if I can get 25mpg on the highway. After the 2 years it will be weekend rock crawler.

The body is in great shape. Haven't seen any rust yet. It came with full soft top and a 6 disk CD changer. I think I'll drop the CD changer for an iPhone hookup. A few other mods that will have to be undone but I'm really happy with it so far.

So far I've spent $1000 for the truck.

ioumateo99@yahoo.com

Great Find. It has lots of potential. How's the interior? The body looks clean. What happen to the engine?

jaredbishop

Regarding the engine I was told it was taking a lot coolant over time. It just took a lot more than it should have. A few days/weeks latter they heard a pop haven't driven it in several months. I got the car when it was dark so I couldn't tell but other than the drivers seat it was in very good condition for the year. When they previous owner dropped the truck off it was the first time I had seen it in person.

I've rebuilt a the 4Runner's 3.4 L 5VZ-FE V6 engine, the Sienna 3.0 L 1MZ-FE V6 with VVT and a 3SGTE from an MR2. I've head these are easy to work on so I'm going to push my self a bit and see if I can't make this more fuel efficient. I'm also looking forward to doing some suspension work too.

I plan to clean up the whole under side and put on an nice anti corrosion coat.

jaredbishop

It came with a soft top like this one:

James Woods

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you have a plan, I will be interested in the turn out on your MPG, I don't think it is to far fetched as I got around 22 on the highway in mine.

jaredbishop

Here is a little math for you all. I figure I'll commute 10,000 miles in one year. I'll round it out to an average 20 mpg on the highway and $3.00 a gallon. That mean I'll spend $1500 a year in fuel to get to and from work. If I can get 25 mpg that would drop my cost to $1200 a year. A saving of $300 or $60 per mile. So what ever improvement I want to make for the sole purpose of improving mpg I will not spend more than $60 per 1 mpg gained. Not exact but It's a good ball park number to run with.

Dropping weight.
This will be easy, to a point. I'll drop the spare tire for a can of fix-a-flat (when not 4 wheeling). I'll also work on dropping about 20 pound of fat I've gained over the last 12 years of marriage. I'll remove the brush guard, side running tubes, and trailer hitch. I may even remove the rear seats. I'll remove the A/C compressors and power steering.

Driving habits
This will be hard for me. I may get one of those instant MPG gauges. A few that I've seen plug into the OBD-II plugs which don't exist in these 4Runners. So I'll look for one.

Aerodynamic
There are a few things to increase the drag coefficient such as removing the mud flaps. I may try to modify the front and rear bumper. I believe the truck is at stock height so I will not raise it any higher… yet.

Engine Performance
As I'm doing a complete rebuild this is a great time to look at power output. The is more of an unknown area for me. A lot of this is thinking out loud, so I'm open to any advice and feedback. Having a newly cleaned engine should help it run more fuel efficient. I know over boring the engine block will add power. I don't know if that will lead to a loss of mpg. Clean injectors are always good, and larger injects will use more fuel. Could I go down to smaller injectors? I've seen RV cams that put more torque at the lower end. It also means you got to use a bit more fuel to get up and go. Is there a cam that will improve MPG? I'll add a cold air intake I hear that should help a bit. Removing the A/C and power steering mean less energy is being drawn the system. I put tires in this category as the better performing tire the less energy is lost in making them go round. So good highway tires and keep them balanced, alined and inflated.

Any other ideas?

jaredbishop

Here are a few images. I wan not able to get it into the garage last night and just my luck we got about 3 inches of snow. Here are a few shots:

jaredbishop

After a couple of hours I made a bit of a dent. I took the oil cap off and found chocolate milkshake. I took the drain plug out and a gush of water pored out followed by thick chocolate milkshake.

jaredbishop

I'm about ready to pull the engine. I'm stuck on one of the bolts on the exhaust and 3 of the bolts that mate the engine to the transmission. I'm able to get the 4 bolts on the bottom. I was told there are 7 so that leave 3 on top I've found one of them I don't know where the other 2 are and I have no idea how to get to the 3 bolts.

I noticed a lot of people pull the pull the power steering and the A/C units before pulling the engine. I wasn't planing on removing them. Looks like there in plenty of room.

RMP8080

Did you remove the starter?
I removed the engine, transmission and transfer case all in one piece.
The top three bolts are at 10 o'clock 12 o'clock and 2 o'clock on the 5 speed manual

Latter today I'll take some picture of mind, it's already out.

ioumateo99@yahoo.com

I just did my swap about 4 months ago. Start with the Battery then the radiator drain and remove you don’t want to damage it when pulling. Quick and easy two hoses and four bolts, PS take the fan shroud off first. Next unbolt the accessories ie (AC, PS Pump) IMPORTANT leave the hoses attached just strap the AC & PS to the side and out of the way. Then unbolt the exhaust Manifold gives you more clearance. Hers a pic of the Transmission bell housing if that helps. I counted 7 bolts and one stud for the starter. Also remember the slave cylinder has a bracket. I will upload some pictures for reference when I get home later. Good Luck. Hope this helps.
[ATTACH]87570

jaredbishop

I did remove the starter. I thought it would be too hard to remove it with the transmission but after reading a few reviews I think I'll pull it all out together. It seem like it will be a bit of trick to pull it out.

It looks like the only reason to pull power steering and A/C is so you don't lose the fluids in thises components. Well they are already empty so they're staying on the block when I pull it

I must have missed how to pull the fan. Do I just remove the 4 bolts off?

ioumateo99@yahoo.com

PS I'm having problems posting large pictures like urs if you could help. Thanks Sorry.

jaredbishop

How much does the engine and transmission weigh? I need to know so I set it correctly for my cherry picker

ioumateo99@yahoo.com

A 2 ton Cherry Picker is good. Engine weighs around 200lbs. The trans about 100 w/o tcase. 140 with tcase. Also remeber fuel lines and grounding cables.

coryc85

Jared - not sure if 25mpg is possible, but I'm interested to find out. My tired old engine has 181,000 miles on it, I've got fresh plugs, air filter, distributor, wires, etc, no real engine mods other than a trail-gear header, new cat, fairly new muffler, and a fresh O2 sensor. Anyway, I just took a road trip, about 224 miles all highway and I got 20mpg. I'll bet you around the 20 mpg mark, the payoff in mpg gains for each dollar spent goes down because you are approaching the limits of this truck's gearing/engine/aerodynamics. For instance, if your truck is not running right and you spend $80 on a new O2 sensor, you might gain a few mpgs, but once you're around 20, I doubt $80 will buy you even 1 mpg.

That said, I don't know if 25 is realistic or not, but some narrower tires might help you, fresh wheel bearings, maybe synthetic oil in your t-case and rear end. You can probably remove the front skid plate to save weight, also put on that soft top and drop some weight. If we are talking about hyper-miling, squeezing every ounce of weight out, you could also remove the front d-shaft and heck maybe even the CV shafts and whole front diff.

Good luck, I'll check in here and see how close you can get to the 25mpg mark.

jaredbishop

I'm a bit worried about maneuvering the engine and transmission out together. I figure I'll support the trans with a rolling floor jack and pull both front tires off to lower the front end. I doubt the picker can lift both engine and trans to clear the engine bay without lowing the front end. They tires have to come off any way to work not the brakes.

jaredbishop

I'm not sure if it either but I'm going to try. I'll probably end up spending more then $80 per MPG but hey it'll be fun trying. I'm looking for an instant MPG reader that will work on a pre-OBDII car. That will help me adjust my driving habits which is the cheapest and biggest factors.

Thanks for the advice.

jaredbishop

I've made a lot of head way on finding an instant mpg display for us non OBD-2 people. It is possible for the do-it-yourselfer. I haven't seen anything that is off the shelf plug and play but I doubt one exists. Here are a few links if you're interested:

http://ecomodder.com/wiki/index.php/MPGuino

http://store.fundamentallogic.com/ec...db918522f96ba2

RMP8080

Here the pictures of the 5 speed manual tranmission out of my 87 Toy
Hope they help