ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

WOW, you weren't kidding when you said you had pics!!!!! hahahhaa... GREAT work, man! You guys are haulinnnnnnnnn arse!

V-cover looks awesome! I'm a fan! lol

1986yota4x4

well the reason there are soo many pics is because my senior project is on this motor, i have to have at least 100 powerpoint slides, at least 1 pic per slide, and details on each slide. ive been working on this all weekend pulling late night, and taking a break this week and weekend because i got deer huntin to do this weekend. thanks for the comment on the valve cover, same rattlecan paint as i did my truck in, just 5 coats of it, and some time with a silver paint pen lol

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

honestly, looks fantastic, man! Hope it runs as well as it looks... and great detail. Might just wanna get a lil more light on the photo subjects, ....I've had the blur happen to me when it's low light. But either way, as long as you're cataloging everything, ... I know that's what counts when it all comes due, right?

Hope you heal up quick from the Wisdom Nightmare! lol... get well fast! And send me some VENISON! hahaha

1986yota4x4

lol i had my right side pulled a month ago and i was workin on my truck the same night, not much can stop me from working on my truck, im just waiting right now for a buddy that graduated in wyotech to be able to help me, its my first motor build and i dont wanna mess it up so hes gonna help me with it, i love doing engine work just dont trust myself to rebuild a engine alone at this point in time

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

That's a GOOD THING! You may be a lil hyperactive(as am I! lol)... but you're HUMBLE enough to know to ask for help on this type of precision stuff where things CAN go wrong... Patience is a good thing on this, ... ASK ME HOW I KNOW! hahahaha.

1986yota4x4

haha thanks chef, this engine has to be back up and running by january 15th, but i know it will be done probly within a month

1986yota4x4

i think im gonna sell my half doors to a buddy so i can finish my engine

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Might be a good trade on ''things needed vs. things wanted'', eh? lol. Hope you get what you want for em.

1986yota4x4

probly sellin em pretty cheap, i need to buy oil and filter and some other stuff for when its done, what oil do you recommend i run on a fresh motor?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Well, with all new rings, bored and honed block, head refresh, etc.(especially with a new cam--???) I would just run 10-40w with plenty of lube on EVERYTHING pertinent. Be sure to prime the oil pump and then the rest would vary in regards to 'break in' and 'frequency of oil initial break in oil changes', depending on whether or not you're using a new CAM(??? Can't remember, sorry, lol). After speaking with many machinists, builders, I've noticed it varies... But many that I really respect don't recommend anything but oil and a proper amount of lube, including lubing seals with THE RED grease, and then drain it after 30 minutes or so of break in. Putting a load on the motor within reason, like 1800-2800 rpm, back and forth, every few seconds, will also help the rings to begin to find a seating pattern and reduce the risk of 'glazing', as well as reducing the risk of 'premature cam lobe failure'(IF YOU'RE using a new CAM.. hahaha), ya know? Just 'on sale' 10-40 should be fine and will help trap all the debris within itself and then allow you to drain it out with all the lube as well. Then refill with 10-40 again(maybe something a lil lower for you being in Oregon and nearing winter?), and then you COULD go in and check valve lash and head bolt torque... before refilling it... Then, run it for 500 miles and go in and check valve lash, head bolt torque again, then button it up and replace the oil again and DRIVE IT LIKE YOU OWN IT! (Just keep the RPM's from TOOOOOOOOOOOO crazy high for the first couple thousand, ya know? Some say "Don't go over 3,500rpm"... but really? >>>> Most of those same machinists I spoke of say the same thing, "Meh, ...that's excessive... just drive it like you own it, ...it's a 22re, not a Northstar!" lol. (BTW, ... don't listen to the book... Go to 62-65# of torque on the Head bolts.... NOT 58# like the Haynes and such recommend.... That has been a 'general consensus update' amongst machinists, everywhere, including the 'kitchens' of Toyota, itself, hahaha.

Of course, most of the 'more frequent' oil changing and such at the get go is due to the 'NEW CAM' factor, which I'm not sure you're dealing with... Yet still, you want to keep it clean in there till you get all the debris out, as well as getting to rings to seat as quickly as possible.

1986yota4x4

the cam has like 500 miles on it

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Ahhh, ok....

Well;

1. Are you using different rockers/rocker pads on this cam than when it was broken in?(meaning, are you going to swap over the different rocker assembly that is 'foreign' to this cam?) Reason I ask is because the MAJORITY portion of "break in of CAM" is the relationship between the rocker pads and CAM.

2. I'm sure this CAM is mostly broken in the way it's 'going to be' after 500 miles. But, as I mentioned in #1, you might just do a normal "new CAM" and Motor Break in. (Prime pump, crank over without coil wire connected to build a lil pressure, start up and then run WITHOUT letting it idle for 20-30 minutes, varying RPM back and forth in RPM from 1800-2800-2200, varying every 10 seconds or so)<<< the latter most portion depending on what someone like Tod at Engnbldr tells you, which will depend on 'what kind of cam' it is, etc., ya know?

3. I'm assuming you're going to hot tank and air flush this block before and after boring/honing it? (Reason I ask is because you NEED TO! lol. Secondly, because some times, people do HG repairs without touching the bottom end... very common... and there is an extra 'factor' in that, in those situations one would want to maybe run some ATF with the oil, in an effort to 'suspend' any water in there{ATF is great at suspending H20, then it comes out with the oil change} ) But, since it looks like you're doing a full tear down/rebuild, you might want to just stick, again, with basic 'manufacturer/guru instructions on break in'.

4. Don't forget to lube the bearings well and then, when installing the crank, test roll it, checking for any drama... Then, install the main bearings in the order the FSM recommends, then rolling the crank in between each main cap install. Then, after all main caps are installed, follow procedure for installing pistons/rings/rods, over the rod bearings, and repeat the rolling of the crank to see if it binds upon ANY caps install.(The crank WILL get harder to turn as you install them, but YOU WILL KNOW what I mean if you go to install one and instead of the tension increasing 10% each time, it increases to the point that you can HARDLY TURN the crank, after only one additional CAP install, ya know?) I'm sure your shop project manager will have a piston/ring/rod installer(and ring depressing tool), but you CAN use vacuum hose of the right size attached to the rod end studs(they keep the studs from scoring the crank journals, and you can use them to ''pull'' the pistons in as you're tapping them in from the top.

5. As you're ALMOST DONE, readying yourself to 'do all of #4'..... CLEAN THE CYLINDERS WELL, using a VERY LOW LINT cloth/shop towel(they do sell them). This would also include 'KEEP YOUR HANDS CLEAN!' lol.<<<(Do the same for the timing kit install...CLEAN HANDS!)

6. Before you hit #4 and #5, ... you will need to do a last "Hot tank/Air Flush and IMMEDIATELY dry it completely as well as possible, then WIPE CLEAN THE HOLES and CRANK JOURNALS, ETC., OUT AGAIN!

7. Do everything in the order it orders you, and that includes the head bolts, etc. READ it over and over, and then you'll see what you want to do ahead of each step, like getting the chain/attached to cam sprocket over the CAM notch and then bolted in.... And DO NOT DO THIS until you're sure you have the 'INFAMOUS HIDDEN TIMING COVER BOLT' in! lol.

Don't forget to prime the oil pump and install it on the cover before installing the cover. Also, note the 3 differing torque values of the oil pump mounting bolts and do NOT forget to slather some RTV on the proper Oil Pump mounting bolt(center/top). READ EVERYTHING 3 TIMES, ... regarding torque values.... especially the timing cover, etc. Remember, the "9# and 29# ratings on the timing cover is all available on the "4crawler cheap tricks timing cover install" page.

1986yota4x4

i was planning on using the rockers from the celica motor since they are cleaner, or do i have to use the ones that were from teh truck motor that the cam broke in on?

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

"Fresher" is somewhat irrelevant, 86, when it's pertaining to Rockers.... You could have 80K on a motor, ....and yet, on a TOTALLY "flat lobe failure" cam.... those rockers COULD be almost useless! lol. Do the rockers look better on the one you're planning to 'swap in'? If not, Yes, I WOULD run the same rockers on it.... You could keep them in order and pull them and then slap em into the other rocker assembly(if the one the cam broke in on is really rusted out, etc.?)... But they're usually pretty durable. If you're doing all new valves, consider that, as well, as they will be meeting up with whatever adjusters you're throwing in there, ya know? See if they're really worn. In fact, as part of your project, you could show a comparison of the different adjuster wear patterns... They can tell you A LOT!

It really can depend on all you're doing to a head, ya know? If you're just swapping them out, ... and both have questionable parts, and you don't wanna spend ANYTHING you don't have to... Well, then pick through them and pick out the best ones, maybe even have them lapped, etc.(adjusters and the rocker pads). A whole new set of adjuster screws from LCE is like 28$, as I remember(8 of them)... You most likely wont need the nuts as well...but many will tell you different.(again, I would really only do this if they look like CRAP and you are using new valves.... But then again, I, PERSONALLY? lol...> Yeah, I'd probably swap them out, have the rocker pads lapped, use what looked best????? lol)

1986yota4x4

ok well im gonna look at the rocker pad on both assemblies and choose the new ones, the cam wasnt replaced because it went flat it was replaced because my buddy just wanted to get a better cam in his 4runner

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Personally???................. I would swap the rockers that were wearing on the cam right onto it again.... UNLESS there's been some damage by being dropped, etc.(

I would also, if you're not CERTAIN what a "Perfectly fine to 'RUN IT' Cam looks like".... I would maybe post up some really clear pictures here of said cam.... Close ups of the lobes where the pads run.

I know, you're trying to save money/it's a budget build, for understandable reasons... Yet you wanna run it for a while, right? In that case, I would just be SURE on the things that might cause you a bit of drama and possibly force another tear down/tear out within a short time, ....ya know? That would be the CAM, Rings/wrist pins/bearings(the main inner stuff's that I think you're replacing all of, as well as a good crank grind, right?).... But, honestly?>>> The CAM, Rockers and Adjusters CAN cause drama that could end up forcing you to pull the head again, ... feel me?

NO WAY am I trying to overthink this.... I mean, it's THOUSANDTHS OF INCHES we're talking about here, that's all! hahahaha. RATHER, I'm trying to just getcha to double check everything before you get it all snugged up and ready to go back in(or worse, back in and about to turn the key.... OR EVEN WORSE, lol>> You turn the key the first time and within minutes, 'OH CRAP') .... make sense? hahahaha.

1986yota4x4

yea i appreciate all your help chef, ill go over everything tonight after school

1986yota4x4

just got done replacing my driver door, and come to find out that its not only that my window frame was bent that it wouldnt shut right, but my hinges are bent also, so now i gotta pull the fender again and replace the hinges, that will be another day tho, im done for the night

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

Hello 1986.. Glad to see you working on a Celica motor. I plan on doing one this winter for my 83 project. One thing I noticed already on yours is the dual row chain. Is that just on the old 22r motor?

The way I understand it the Celica and trucks of early years were the same and will bolt up to the newer trans, but cant say for sure. I know there are some differeces and why some parts wont interchange between the actual motors themselves.

Dutchbelly is working on a Celica motor also. Mine is an 83 Celica motor and is carbed. That will be 3 of us that I know of working on these. I plan on doing mine in the winter as I can work on it when it is cold out. I have a little shop but not big enough to get a truck in or have to go to my dads and his isnt much bigger.

Also a while back I found some hinges on ebay. I had some off of a door in the shed and wound up using them instead. I dont seem to recall them being to bad of a price.

1986yota4x4

the truck had the dual row, and the celica motor has single row, ill be running the dual row.

as for the hinges i have a set i just havent had the time to swap them out, being a senior in high school sucks lol