xBANEx's 1980 Pickup Build-Up Thread
03-12-2010, 02:59 PM
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xBANEx's 1980 Pickup Build-Up Thread
So this is the story of Bane, a 1980 1st gen pick up bought initally as a just for fun truck for a whopping 250 bucks, and ended up as a frame off build costing me all of my money and most of my time(as is so often the case). Believe it or not the truck ran, was completely in tact, and could even pass smog (it was far from mint condition mind you, and was barely road worthy). I had never owned a Yota before, and didn't know a complete 1st gen was a rare find and if I had to do it all over again, I might have gone the resto route instead...aw, who am I kidding. If I had it to do over again I'd do it all over again!
Bane on it's first day home:
Bane on it's first day home:
03-12-2010, 03:25 PM
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So, a little background information is I bought this truck a few weeks before I started my Paramedic internship, a difficult task that took a lot of effort just to get to and requires all ones time and focus to get through. What made me think starting a project like this was a good idea, I'll never know.
We took the truck out right away (we being my friend Justin who has been a faithful partner in crime since day one) and got it stuck. And once we got it freed it broke down. So 3 days and lots of hiking later it came home and we began doing work. We found a parts truck for 100 bucks, with the initial plan of robbing just a few parts off of.
(Of course we had to try the parts truck out first...you know, to make sure the parts were ok).
As it turns out the parts truck ran better than the original truck. We spent the next week or so swapping parts back and forth between the two trucks in front of my apartment until some very nice police officers from the Redlands police department came and started to tow everything away! After some smooth talking we were able to convince them to leave both trucks, but they said anything that was still on the street the next morning was gonna get towed. We quickly considered our options and decided the only way were were gonna get to keep everything would be to put it all in my tiny apartment garage. But how to put two toyotas in one garage...
The solution we came up with was dismantle everything. I wish the pictures would have turned out better but it was getting too dark. In about 6 hours we took boths beds off and stacked them in the back, we then took the green cab and put it back to back with the red cab on the 1980 frame. we then turned the donor truck frame sideways and slid it in next to the double-cabed truck and slid engines and transmissions and all kinds of other junk where ever we could find an opening. What we ended up was a garage of floor to ceiling toyota parts. And this began the true re-build of Bane...
We took the truck out right away (we being my friend Justin who has been a faithful partner in crime since day one) and got it stuck. And once we got it freed it broke down. So 3 days and lots of hiking later it came home and we began doing work. We found a parts truck for 100 bucks, with the initial plan of robbing just a few parts off of.
(Of course we had to try the parts truck out first...you know, to make sure the parts were ok).
As it turns out the parts truck ran better than the original truck. We spent the next week or so swapping parts back and forth between the two trucks in front of my apartment until some very nice police officers from the Redlands police department came and started to tow everything away! After some smooth talking we were able to convince them to leave both trucks, but they said anything that was still on the street the next morning was gonna get towed. We quickly considered our options and decided the only way were were gonna get to keep everything would be to put it all in my tiny apartment garage. But how to put two toyotas in one garage...
The solution we came up with was dismantle everything. I wish the pictures would have turned out better but it was getting too dark. In about 6 hours we took boths beds off and stacked them in the back, we then took the green cab and put it back to back with the red cab on the 1980 frame. we then turned the donor truck frame sideways and slid it in next to the double-cabed truck and slid engines and transmissions and all kinds of other junk where ever we could find an opening. What we ended up was a garage of floor to ceiling toyota parts. And this began the true re-build of Bane...
03-12-2010, 03:41 PM
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Once we had the truck pulled completely apart we decided it would be dumb not to go through it piece by piece as we put it back together (we also decided it would be dumb TO rebuild it piece by piece, but at least with the first option we'd end up with a cool truck, so we did that).
We spent a week or so going through the garage and sorting out all the parts from both trucks, keeping anything that might come in handy, and recycling the rest. Incidentally, we got a hundred bucks in recycled scrap steel, which is what we paid for the parts truck in the first place, so that worked out. We saved the 22r and 5 speed trans, the power steering, the 3" wider rear axle, the front hubs what not to widen the front end equally, the complete wiring harness, the tilt steering column, and 3 or 4 coffee cans worth of nuts and bolts.
The first step was to dive in to the solid front axle:
(notice the upside down reinforcement welded on the axle? We dubbed it the 'snow plow' because it would dig deep and start pushing lots of snow, which played a big part in our getting stuck for 3 days our first time out with it.
Came out pretty well. The 3rd member got rebuilt with a brand new motive 4.88 ring gear, all new bearing seals, cleaned the birfs, all that good stuff. Also went with rear's up front with sort of a custom spring pac from 3 different sets of leaf springs. All the bushings were replaced and the bracket for that control arm thingy was later removed. Why I didn't do a u-bolt flip then I don't know. Also mounted the steering box to get ready for hi-steer. We also cut the back of the dust shield to accommodate the bigger calipers off the 86 and the slotted rotors, along with the hubs to widen each side by an inch and a half.
We spent a week or so going through the garage and sorting out all the parts from both trucks, keeping anything that might come in handy, and recycling the rest. Incidentally, we got a hundred bucks in recycled scrap steel, which is what we paid for the parts truck in the first place, so that worked out. We saved the 22r and 5 speed trans, the power steering, the 3" wider rear axle, the front hubs what not to widen the front end equally, the complete wiring harness, the tilt steering column, and 3 or 4 coffee cans worth of nuts and bolts.
The first step was to dive in to the solid front axle:
(notice the upside down reinforcement welded on the axle? We dubbed it the 'snow plow' because it would dig deep and start pushing lots of snow, which played a big part in our getting stuck for 3 days our first time out with it.
Came out pretty well. The 3rd member got rebuilt with a brand new motive 4.88 ring gear, all new bearing seals, cleaned the birfs, all that good stuff. Also went with rear's up front with sort of a custom spring pac from 3 different sets of leaf springs. All the bushings were replaced and the bracket for that control arm thingy was later removed. Why I didn't do a u-bolt flip then I don't know. Also mounted the steering box to get ready for hi-steer. We also cut the back of the dust shield to accommodate the bigger calipers off the 86 and the slotted rotors, along with the hubs to widen each side by an inch and a half.
03-12-2010, 03:58 PM
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Photo coverage gets a little bit sketchy from here on out, but moving towards the back we began the rebuild of the rear 3rd and put an auzzie locker in it. I rebuild both 3rd members myself, I read just about every thread on Zuk's gearinstalls.com, I hope I did it right. We'll find out when we hit the trail! (Thats kind of been a theme with the whole build, child-like optimism in the face of adversity and ineptitude). We also went with 63 inch Chevy's in the rear. I read several helpful posts on this site and others, but one thing no one mentions is THOSE THINGS ARE HEAVY! I had to drag them out of a junk yard by myself, and man, that is a chore!
Jacked her up about 5 inches...perfect!
Working in sub-optimal conditions has an effect on your rate of progress, as any shade tree mechanic will tell you. Being in the cramped garage did lead to the occasional mis-hap, such as the truck falling off the jack stands. Fortunately I wasn't under it.
Sometimes I'd get a little grumpy, especially when my welds didn't turn out as 'stack of dimes' looking as I wanted
But usually we were in pretty good spirits, and up for a good game of who-can-balance-the-longest-before-they-break-their-arms:
(There's the legend himself - 1997-98 tire balancing champion Justin Hastings)
Jacked her up about 5 inches...perfect!
Working in sub-optimal conditions has an effect on your rate of progress, as any shade tree mechanic will tell you. Being in the cramped garage did lead to the occasional mis-hap, such as the truck falling off the jack stands. Fortunately I wasn't under it.
Sometimes I'd get a little grumpy, especially when my welds didn't turn out as 'stack of dimes' looking as I wanted
But usually we were in pretty good spirits, and up for a good game of who-can-balance-the-longest-before-they-break-their-arms:
(There's the legend himself - 1997-98 tire balancing champion Justin Hastings)
03-12-2010, 05:03 PM
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So total the RUF's and 63's lifted the rig about 5", the nose is just a touch high, but I'm sure it'll settle down with some weight over the front end.
Tragically, word came down we were no longer able to keep the truck in the garage and it had to be moved! Ugh, it's always something. Well, like I said, optimistic and inept, we set out to figure out how to get the truck moved from where it was to where it was going. The cheapest thing we could find was a u-haul that was just a few feet shorter than the truck. Since the engine/trans/t-case was out, along with a bunch of interior and trim parts, we decided it'd be light enough to not fall through the floor of the u-haul so we gave it a try.
So far so good...
Ok, this is getting a little precarious, the ramps are kinda half wedged under the truck...
Doh! Tried to do a final push, forgot the bed wasn't bolted on, LOL!
But we eventually got there. This set up got a lot of strange looks going down the freeway, but it made it. Once it was at it's new home it was time to pull the cab for some rust repair
Like the leathers with no shirt? Ha. It's like 103 degrees and way to hot to be welding, but we made some progress. Eventually we got some sheet metal we bummed from a hot rod shop welded in, and the whole underside wire wheeled and sprayed with that rubber undercoating stuff.
So a question at this point, on the inside of the cab is that 1/4" inch thick rubber stuff the factory smeared all over, and it's obviously missing where I welded my patch panels in. Any ideas on what can I can put down to smooth things out and make a nice rust barrier? Anyone have any experience with por-15's floor liner?
Tragically, word came down we were no longer able to keep the truck in the garage and it had to be moved! Ugh, it's always something. Well, like I said, optimistic and inept, we set out to figure out how to get the truck moved from where it was to where it was going. The cheapest thing we could find was a u-haul that was just a few feet shorter than the truck. Since the engine/trans/t-case was out, along with a bunch of interior and trim parts, we decided it'd be light enough to not fall through the floor of the u-haul so we gave it a try.
So far so good...
Ok, this is getting a little precarious, the ramps are kinda half wedged under the truck...
Doh! Tried to do a final push, forgot the bed wasn't bolted on, LOL!
But we eventually got there. This set up got a lot of strange looks going down the freeway, but it made it. Once it was at it's new home it was time to pull the cab for some rust repair
Like the leathers with no shirt? Ha. It's like 103 degrees and way to hot to be welding, but we made some progress. Eventually we got some sheet metal we bummed from a hot rod shop welded in, and the whole underside wire wheeled and sprayed with that rubber undercoating stuff.
So a question at this point, on the inside of the cab is that 1/4" inch thick rubber stuff the factory smeared all over, and it's obviously missing where I welded my patch panels in. Any ideas on what can I can put down to smooth things out and make a nice rust barrier? Anyone have any experience with por-15's floor liner?
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03-12-2010, 09:11 PM
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Incidentally, the bed off this truck is for sale, please refer to the classified section for info.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f109...or-cal-206825/
Thanks!
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f109...or-cal-206825/
Thanks!
06-08-2010, 11:33 AM
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Well I've gotten a few things done since my last posting. I don't know why we didn't do it the first time around, but we didn't flip the ubolts, so I addressed that.
Had a local shop cut and break some 6" flat strap. Looked around the garage for something 'axle shaped' and ultimately came up with a drive shaft. Took the old u-bolts and warmed em up, then gently wrapped them around the drive shaft.
I am a little concerned about weakening the ubolts doing this, but I was very careful not to stretch them as I reshaped them, So I'm gonna see how they work. It's a 25 dollar investment for all 4, so I'm gonna give it a shot.
Final product came out pretty well.
Also spent some time cleaning the engine bay in preparation for paint. While we were in there we also did the final fab on the IFS steering box and adapting the 86 steering column to the 80 pick up.
getting the column in took a little work. Had to cut the mounting ears off, cut an inch of either side, then weld them back on (wish I had pics but phone died that day). Ultimately it came out pretty sweet though. Now the truck has a tilt column (hey I started out a hot rodder, every rod has to have a tilt column) and more importantly the wiring harness from the 86 is now plug and play, the only splicing needed will be on the instrument cluster.
Had a local shop cut and break some 6" flat strap. Looked around the garage for something 'axle shaped' and ultimately came up with a drive shaft. Took the old u-bolts and warmed em up, then gently wrapped them around the drive shaft.
I am a little concerned about weakening the ubolts doing this, but I was very careful not to stretch them as I reshaped them, So I'm gonna see how they work. It's a 25 dollar investment for all 4, so I'm gonna give it a shot.
Final product came out pretty well.
Also spent some time cleaning the engine bay in preparation for paint. While we were in there we also did the final fab on the IFS steering box and adapting the 86 steering column to the 80 pick up.
getting the column in took a little work. Had to cut the mounting ears off, cut an inch of either side, then weld them back on (wish I had pics but phone died that day). Ultimately it came out pretty sweet though. Now the truck has a tilt column (hey I started out a hot rodder, every rod has to have a tilt column) and more importantly the wiring harness from the 86 is now plug and play, the only splicing needed will be on the instrument cluster.
06-08-2010, 12:13 PM
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Took the rig outside on a (rare) sunny day in nor cal and splashed some paint in the engine bay. In my head I was envisioning more of a flat green, almost military looking, but turns out its pretty glossy
Next decided to coat the inside of the cab, to hopefully prevent any further rust and cover the patch panels we put in. I used duponts bed liner, I suppose I won't know how well it worked for years to come, but so far so good
And the latest project has been the engine. I have been going back and forth for over a year about wether or not to rebuild the 22r out of the donor truck, it ran great, but I also knew it had a history of abuse. I literally had the engine on the cherry picker, and had to decide right then if I should put it on the stand and rebuild it or drop it in the engine bay. I decided for the rebuild, and boy am I glad I did. The top end looked beautiful, so initially I was disappointed I started tearing into it. However, when I got to the main and rod bearings, they were trash! 1 and 2 rod bearings were worn through the bearing surface, through the copper coating, and into the metal the bearing is made of. Number 1 was so thin it cracked in half as I took it out of the journal. The mains weren't much better. The front timing cover, although the plastic retainer for the timing chain was newish, was worn so thin you could feel the 'bubbling' on the other side of the water passage where the timing chain was about to wear through before it was replaced. I'm guessing this 'ran great' engine had a few hours of life left in it before a bearing spun.
So I took it to the local machine shop where the block and head passed their pressure tests and magnaflux. The machinist asked me what I wanted to do next, and it was about this time I remembered the 20r head in storage in so cal. I told him to hold off and took the 12 hour drive down to get it. He agreed to trade me my late 22r block for an early one, and my 22r head in trade for some machine work. So the early 22r block will get honed, the 20r head will get bigger valves put in it and surfaced. I think I'm gonna do a (very) mild port job on the head, and a crower stage 1 cam is on the shelf waiting to go in. Of course the mill will get new pistons and a complete rebuild kit. Everything should be back from the machine shop next week to begin re-assembly. After saving up a few paychecks I hope to make a call to LC for a header, the carb adapter, and an adjustable cam gear.
Oh P.S I'm looking for a better trans (currently have g-52) i.e. w56 or the holy grail r151f, if anyone has any leads I'm interested.
Next decided to coat the inside of the cab, to hopefully prevent any further rust and cover the patch panels we put in. I used duponts bed liner, I suppose I won't know how well it worked for years to come, but so far so good
And the latest project has been the engine. I have been going back and forth for over a year about wether or not to rebuild the 22r out of the donor truck, it ran great, but I also knew it had a history of abuse. I literally had the engine on the cherry picker, and had to decide right then if I should put it on the stand and rebuild it or drop it in the engine bay. I decided for the rebuild, and boy am I glad I did. The top end looked beautiful, so initially I was disappointed I started tearing into it. However, when I got to the main and rod bearings, they were trash! 1 and 2 rod bearings were worn through the bearing surface, through the copper coating, and into the metal the bearing is made of. Number 1 was so thin it cracked in half as I took it out of the journal. The mains weren't much better. The front timing cover, although the plastic retainer for the timing chain was newish, was worn so thin you could feel the 'bubbling' on the other side of the water passage where the timing chain was about to wear through before it was replaced. I'm guessing this 'ran great' engine had a few hours of life left in it before a bearing spun.
So I took it to the local machine shop where the block and head passed their pressure tests and magnaflux. The machinist asked me what I wanted to do next, and it was about this time I remembered the 20r head in storage in so cal. I told him to hold off and took the 12 hour drive down to get it. He agreed to trade me my late 22r block for an early one, and my 22r head in trade for some machine work. So the early 22r block will get honed, the 20r head will get bigger valves put in it and surfaced. I think I'm gonna do a (very) mild port job on the head, and a crower stage 1 cam is on the shelf waiting to go in. Of course the mill will get new pistons and a complete rebuild kit. Everything should be back from the machine shop next week to begin re-assembly. After saving up a few paychecks I hope to make a call to LC for a header, the carb adapter, and an adjustable cam gear.
Oh P.S I'm looking for a better trans (currently have g-52) i.e. w56 or the holy grail r151f, if anyone has any leads I'm interested.
06-09-2010, 03:24 PM
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06-17-2010, 01:51 PM
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Well, a little progress. The machine shop called and said my 20r head magnafluxed and pressure tested fine BUT there were a ton of holes that needed thread repair (mostly on the exhaust side) and 2 broken studs. It had been so long since I pulled that head off I had forgotten what kind of shape it was in. The shop said they wanted close to 200 dollars to fix the holes and pull the studs. I asked if by 'fix' they meant helicoil, they said yes. Sweet! I can do that. So I went and picked the head up and got to it.
Seven holes needed repair on the exhaust side. The one on the right with the circle and the x is in very bad shape, too worn out to helicoil. A little research has suggested keenserts use a larger pilot hole and might work better. Anyone have an experience with them?
...2 broken studs need to be pulled, which turned out to be cake. The unbroken ones on the intake side had to come off so the head would sit flat on the drill press, those turned out to be far more difficult.
Drilled...
And tapped.
The whole process went pretty smoothly except for the stupid plastic insert tool that came in the helicoil kit broke, so I need to come up with a way to put one more insert in, and the aforementioned hole that is beyond helicoil repair.
The block should be done any day, I'm gonna try and clean up the ports on this head and then it will go back to the machine shop for bigger valves and assembly.
Seven holes needed repair on the exhaust side. The one on the right with the circle and the x is in very bad shape, too worn out to helicoil. A little research has suggested keenserts use a larger pilot hole and might work better. Anyone have an experience with them?
...2 broken studs need to be pulled, which turned out to be cake. The unbroken ones on the intake side had to come off so the head would sit flat on the drill press, those turned out to be far more difficult.
Drilled...
And tapped.
The whole process went pretty smoothly except for the stupid plastic insert tool that came in the helicoil kit broke, so I need to come up with a way to put one more insert in, and the aforementioned hole that is beyond helicoil repair.
The block should be done any day, I'm gonna try and clean up the ports on this head and then it will go back to the machine shop for bigger valves and assembly.
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