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bindergirl's 1981 Pickup Build-Up Thread "The Perkulator"

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Old 03-06-2010, 05:37 AM
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Bindegirl, I would not recommend NWOR their customer service is beyond poor. Try out some of the vendors here or DK Diesel on Bakerview. they are our local Trailgear dealer.
Old 03-06-2010, 06:05 AM
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Originally Posted by peow130
If the herc is anything like POR15, it's not coming off for a week or two.
My hands and forearms were black with POR15 marks for weeks, and half of the back of my forearm was coated lol
Originally Posted by toyospearo
Looking good!
Try lacquer thinner to remove that hurculiner. Works for me.
Originally Posted by bindergirl
LOL I can't believe how many responses there have been to the stained hand. I appreciate everyones participation but I think I'll just let it wear off.


Truth is, Lacquer thinner works if you get to it fast enough. But after 24 hours it is stained into your skin and won't come off till you shed those skin cells.

Way to wear your wrenching pride bindergirl! (They don't call me pigpen for nothing!)
Old 03-07-2010, 02:43 PM
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Ok sorry for the lack of updates it's been a long week.

Sooo for the most important update - the herc stain only lasted two days, a little scrubbing with the pumice stone and all is well once again
Old 03-07-2010, 02:49 PM
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Other than that there has very little progress. The second coat herculiner is on and set. I'm really happy with the final product. I ended up using 1 gallon for two solid coats of both the bed and cab interior.

Last edited by bindergirl; 03-07-2010 at 08:58 PM.
Old 03-07-2010, 03:03 PM
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The lack of local 1st gen parts and not being able to locate a 20r head has put a damper on the whole engine rebuild plans thingy... I changed out the PCV valve per pumkinyota's suggestion hoping it would buy me some time... No luck the blow by is bad enough, the perkulator isn't going anywhere for a while. So now I am seriously reconsidering rebuild options because I want to keep moving forward on this truck.
Old 03-07-2010, 03:11 PM
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if you can't find a valve cover for that thing let me know. I can probably find one at the shop I am working at.
Old 03-07-2010, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by bikerbob
Bindegirl, I would not recommend NWOR their customer service is beyond poor. Try out some of the vendors here or DK Diesel on Bakerview. they are our local Trailgear dealer.
Thanks for the heads up ... I was going to go with NWOR beause they are local and I wasn't going to have to wait on shipping - but after talking with the owner he is out of stock for at least two weeks - so I guess I'm still shopping for suspension as well
Old 03-07-2010, 03:37 PM
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I have done business with John at Northwest Off-Road Specialties for over 25 years and I never had any problems with his products or services. I live in Pennsylvania and he has always shipped my orders as fast as possible and his products always fit and work. When I raced my truck, if I needed something, it was always there so I could continue my racing schedule. I hear some negatative things about Downey Off-Road Manufacturing also and again I have done alot of business with Jim Sickles over the years and never any problems. Most vendors whom have been in business for many years do make mistakes at times but if they have a problem with one of their products they do whats right towards the customer if it is their fault.
Old 03-07-2010, 04:16 PM
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Originally Posted by bindergirl
The lack of local 1st gen parts and not being able to locate a 20r head has put a damper on the whole engine rebuild plans thingy...
why a new head? when i did my 3vze rebuild i just took the old heads into the machine shop with some new valves and they sand blasted the heads, seated the new valves, put new shims in, put my new cams in for me and made sure everything was in spec. and that cost me... about $300 per head if you exclude the cost of the cams and valves.
Old 03-07-2010, 04:19 PM
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ohhh... never mind my previous post... i read page three and saw the thing about the 20R/22R hybrid...
Old 03-07-2010, 05:37 PM
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at last report Downey was dead and gone so that source of parts is no more... NWOR seems to be a hit and miss operation some folks say they are great and others not so much, though their parts are reputed to fit right every time (for the most part)... as one PP suggested a local machine shop should be able to rebuild your heads relatively cheaply so that would be an option worth looking into...
Old 03-07-2010, 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by toyospearo
if you can't find a valve cover for that thing let me know. I can probably find one at the shop I am working at.
I appreciate the offer I'll keep you in mind once I get to that point.
Old 03-07-2010, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by aviator
at last report Downey was dead and gone so that source of parts is no more... NWOR seems to be a hit and miss operation some folks say they are great and others not so much, though their parts are reputed to fit right every time (for the most part)... as one PP suggested a local machine shop should be able to rebuild your heads relatively cheaply so that would be an option worth looking into...
Rodger that...
I just wanted to put it back together better than factory, if I take it all the way down to a bare block. We'll see I guess, I looked into the LCE kits and almost had a heart attack when I saw the prices Everything I hear about them is good but holy moley they want some coin for those performance kits.

Work is picking up as we are rolling into a shutdown, so the build will slow down but maybe the coin will build up!

Its only time and money I guess, I'll find something I want.
Old 03-08-2010, 09:22 PM
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Yeah they keep their pencils extremely dull over there at LCE... always found that strange that work would pick up as they prepare to shut down a plant...
Old 03-09-2010, 08:38 AM
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Originally Posted by aviator
always found that strange that work would pick up as they prepare to shut down a plant...
Took me awhile to figure out what you were talking about, but I think I get it...

Refinery shutdowns dont shut the whole plant down, usually just a unit or two for maint. When the unit is down you are making less product & $$$... so crews work days/ nights to clean up, fix anything needing maint, and get it back up and running. Every unit will come down on a regular maintence schedule.
Old 03-09-2010, 08:46 AM
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OK sooo back to the build...
I talked to Ted at engnbldr.com last night and of course he was very helpful and I think I will go with one of their kits for my rebuild... the 261 & 268 cams look pretty slick - anyones personal experience?
If I get a weekend I will start pulling the motor - be prepared for lots-o-pics

Speaking of pics I tore into my hubs last night - they could use some cleaning. Anyways I have a few pics but the firewall here at work is posing some problems... I'll post a little later tonight from home.
Old 03-09-2010, 09:12 AM
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I highly recomend engnbldr. Ted has helped me out a lot on my 22re.

Last edited by yotarob2005; 03-09-2010 at 09:50 AM.
Old 03-09-2010, 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by bindergirl
Took me awhile to figure out what you were talking about, but I think I get it...

Refinery shutdowns dont shut the whole plant down, usually just a unit or two for maint. When the unit is down you are making less product & $$$... so crews work days/ nights to clean up, fix anything needing maint, and get it back up and running. Every unit will come down on a regular maintence schedule.
did'nt know you worked at a refinery... yeah that type of op. shutdowns would mean lots of extra work same thing for mines and the like... when you said plant I thought you meant a mfg. plant those wind down (generally) as they move towards a shut down cycle...

On topic... my mech. (who is a top fabricator among other things) is about to begin offering several items which might interest you like slotted flywheels among other things... these will reduce the rotational mass and allow an increase in real HP output, much better clutch performance, and improved MPG.

Last edited by aviator; 03-09-2010 at 04:51 PM.
Old 03-09-2010, 08:56 PM
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OK so back to the hubs
The drivers side was a little more diff to operate if you look closely you can see some RTV or something oozing out between the hub face and body.

It is not my intent to show a full hub rebuild as there are plenty of those already on here... but I always seem to get pic happy as I tear into stuff so bear with me
Old 03-09-2010, 09:00 PM
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remove the 10mm hub face retaning bolts (6) and the face and dial indicator will come off. the green arrow shows the dial indicator retaining c-clip, and the red arrows show where the RTV leaked everywhere including the bolt holes.


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