33x12.50 and stock toyota driveline
#3
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Oh my god. 33 x 12.5 are god awful. Its is probably the worst tire size ever created hense the reason why nobody uses them. You should really look into 37x13.5 those will definately fit under your truck requiring no mods at all
#5
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#6
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The driveline is fine...there are people running huge tires on stock parts....
CVs is what you need to worry about...I wouldnt feel comfortable running larger than 33s on an IFS truck (that is actually wheeled)
CVs is what you need to worry about...I wouldnt feel comfortable running larger than 33s on an IFS truck (that is actually wheeled)
#7
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is that the reason people get manual hubs on the front?
and sorry i didn't know people asked this question so frequentl
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#8
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it's the fact that you have 2 u-joint points that are weaker than a straight axle, leading to more possibility of failures when a lot of stress is put on them, ei bigger tires ( bigger than 33's I would safely say )...
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 08-28-2008 at 05:09 PM.
#9
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it's not the hubs you have to worry about...
it's the fact that you have 2 u-joint points that are weaker than a straight axle, leading to more possibility of failures when a lot of stress is put on them, ei bigger tires ( bigger than 33's I would safely say )...
it's the fact that you have 2 u-joint points that are weaker than a straight axle, leading to more possibility of failures when a lot of stress is put on them, ei bigger tires ( bigger than 33's I would safely say )...
so then if i get a IFS Truss bar, that should help it
right?
#10
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well a truss doesn't strengthen the cv axles or the u-joints; all it does is strenthen the front end and keeps the lower rear control arm mounts from bending in, and possibly bending the frame when wheeling hard
so in short, a truss really wont help in that circumstance...
I've seen aftermarket CV's that claim to be stronger and more than likely are a little bit, but you can only do so much to strengthen a wooden toothpick and still make it work like it's suppose to if ya know what I mean
Basically, run'n 33's, I don't think you'll have any issues.
Now it later on if you decide to jump up to 36's or higher, you may want to consider either not wheeling very hard, or look into a SAS
so in short, a truss really wont help in that circumstance...
I've seen aftermarket CV's that claim to be stronger and more than likely are a little bit, but you can only do so much to strengthen a wooden toothpick and still make it work like it's suppose to if ya know what I mean
Basically, run'n 33's, I don't think you'll have any issues.
Now it later on if you decide to jump up to 36's or higher, you may want to consider either not wheeling very hard, or look into a SAS
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 08-28-2008 at 06:49 PM.
#11
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lol at all these people...
if you know the limits of your truck, you won't break anything.
and IFS trucks tend to break axles in such a way that you can drive it home.... or so I've heard.
if you know the limits of your truck, you won't break anything.
and IFS trucks tend to break axles in such a way that you can drive it home.... or so I've heard.
Last edited by abecedarian; 08-28-2008 at 07:13 PM.
#12
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finding the limits of your truck is usually when you break stuff
Last edited by iamsuperbleeder; 08-28-2008 at 07:17 PM.
#14
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The weakest part of IFS is the stub shaft off the outer CV joint, and when that breaks, you can still drive the truck, since that rides inside the wheel bearings.
Last edited by abecedarian; 08-28-2008 at 09:03 PM.
#15
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ilizer-140662/
#16
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I'm surprised no one brough this one up sooner. The driveline will handle it just fine most likely, but the steering won't. Look into an idler arm brace or an aftermarket idler arm from Total Chaos.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ilizer-140662/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ilizer-140662/
I have used an extra (2nd) idler arm since 97, its in the middle of the relay arm (gold colored arm here)
I've never had any problem with my idler arm, I replaced the bushing once but it really didn't need it.
Last edited by mt_goat; 08-29-2008 at 03:56 AM.
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I dont think anyone would argue the fact that larger tires put more stress on almost everything. That being said, Know your limits. I think 33s will be fine on your rig but if your really worried about it try 32s and a rear locker.
#18
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After 11 years of running 33 x 12.50s I finally decided to put on an idler arm brace this summer:
I have used an extra (2nd) idler arm since 97, its in the middle of the relay arm (gold colored arm here)
I've never had any problem with my idler arm, I replaced the bushing once but it really didn't need it.
I have used an extra (2nd) idler arm since 97, its in the middle of the relay arm (gold colored arm here)
I've never had any problem with my idler arm, I replaced the bushing once but it really didn't need it.
goat, what are you running suspensoin wise? it looks sweet.
i see tublar upper arms, bj spacers, limiting straps, 4in drop brackets and a tublar steering link?
Last edited by MIKEMOKAS; 08-29-2008 at 07:39 AM.
#19
Contributing Member
It's an old Superlift kit, they used to make a kit that replaced the UCAs. They quit making it about mid 90's sometime. It had an extra idler arm in the middle, seems to really help support both the idler arm and pitman arm.