Yota army guys 1990 4runner 3.4l swap
10-10-2010, 03:30 PM
#41
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Thread Starter
Not a very good pic but here is the 3.0 pickup with the 3.4 baffle. Notice where the oil dip stick tube thingy is......Its in the same place on the 3.0!
Last edited by YOTAARMYGUY; 10-10-2010 at 03:32 PM. Reason: Notice where the oil dip stick tube thingy is......Its in the same place on the 3.0!
10-10-2010, 04:53 PM
#43
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Thread Starter
Update
Had some time to read through some threads and found some answers.
Will be using the 3.0 oil sender and I do not need to drill a new hole.
Will be using the 3.0 oil sender and I do not need to drill a new hole.
10-10-2010, 04:54 PM
#44
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ummm thats where the dipstick union needs to be.
youd have to drill the block if the dipstick union was in the front.
since it came out of a t100 your golden.
read alot of other swap threads youll learn alot and it will eliminate a lot of confusion, elvota, yotaman, and cadman to name a few.
edit: haha posted at the same time.
youd have to drill the block if the dipstick union was in the front.
since it came out of a t100 your golden.
read alot of other swap threads youll learn alot and it will eliminate a lot of confusion, elvota, yotaman, and cadman to name a few.
edit: haha posted at the same time.
Last edited by flaunt; 10-10-2010 at 04:58 PM.
10-10-2010, 05:52 PM
#46
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Definetly read all of the sticky 3.4 swaps, there is so much info in there you should know before getting into this, but it's not too late to catch up. I just completed mine using a T100 as a donor and I listed the advantages of doing so in post 103 of my swap thread.
10-10-2010, 06:38 PM
#47
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Thread Starter
........I REALLY wish I would have read that before hand.........I could have been putting the motor in tomorrow had I read through your thread....grrrrr.....Oh well, at least I got to clean out the pan and baffle plate and what not....it was pretty nasty. Did you still switch out the pick up tubes?
Thanks for the info bro!
10-11-2010, 07:01 PM
#49
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yeah my strong suggestion so you dont get frustrated; ALOT of research.
ive even reread each of the swap threads like 5x to make sure i covered all the aspects and if i didnt, well lets just say i wouldnt be where im at right now haha.
ive even reread each of the swap threads like 5x to make sure i covered all the aspects and if i didnt, well lets just say i wouldnt be where im at right now haha.
10-11-2010, 11:08 PM
#50
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Thread Starter
Update! Whew....
Well, I had a lot of fun tonight........learned a few lessons......
Lesson 1: Dont trust your pathologically lying neighbor when he tells you he knows how to weld....(spent about 3 hours cutting apart the welds he made...)
Lesson 2: When things are being welded they get hot. So, dont place the metal on top of an extension chord that plugged in while you are welding. (happen to be my die grinder/cutting wheel chord....no going back now, cant cut my weld off).
Lesson 3: Practice before welding on a pipe....(If I had pipe laying around I would have practiced....next time I will go practice on my other neighbors pipe fence
.....)
Lesson 4: Die grinders hurt when you take the shield off and the blade hits your finger.
Lesson 5: Those knobs on the front of the welding machine actually do something.
Lesson 6: It helps to turn the gas on while welding.
Check out my welds and tell me if you guys think they will hold...I figure it was worth a shot and if it leaks or breaks I will have the Muffler Shop fab one up for me.
P.S. Thank you all for your help and patience with all my questions. I have read through threads on other websites and their members arent the nicest people when a new person asks a question.
Man I cant wait to get that engine in tomorrow!
So far I have:
Switched the motor mounts
Switched and spliced the 3.0 oil sender
Switched the oil pans....hope I did the sealer right....
Switched the Oil Pickups
Cleaned the engine off (Which reminds me...took a look into the valve cover through the oil fill hole.....there is some build up....Do you guys know of anything to clean that stuff out with...Like something you put in the oil and then drain it after running it for 5 min?
[COLOR=Black]
Installed a new oil filter
Lesson 1: Dont trust your pathologically lying neighbor when he tells you he knows how to weld....(spent about 3 hours cutting apart the welds he made...)
Lesson 2: When things are being welded they get hot. So, dont place the metal on top of an extension chord that plugged in while you are welding. (happen to be my die grinder/cutting wheel chord....no going back now, cant cut my weld off).
Lesson 3: Practice before welding on a pipe....(If I had pipe laying around I would have practiced....next time I will go practice on my other neighbors pipe fence
.....)Lesson 4: Die grinders hurt when you take the shield off and the blade hits your finger.
Lesson 5: Those knobs on the front of the welding machine actually do something.
Lesson 6: It helps to turn the gas on while welding.
Check out my welds and tell me if you guys think they will hold...I figure it was worth a shot and if it leaks or breaks I will have the Muffler Shop fab one up for me.
P.S. Thank you all for your help and patience with all my questions. I have read through threads on other websites and their members arent the nicest people when a new person asks a question.
Man I cant wait to get that engine in tomorrow!
So far I have:
Switched the motor mounts
Switched and spliced the 3.0 oil sender
Switched the oil pans....hope I did the sealer right....
Switched the Oil Pickups
Cleaned the engine off (Which reminds me...took a look into the valve cover through the oil fill hole.....there is some build up....Do you guys know of anything to clean that stuff out with...Like something you put in the oil and then drain it after running it for 5 min?
[COLOR=Black]
Installed a new oil filter
Last edited by YOTAARMYGUY; 10-11-2010 at 11:12 PM.
10-11-2010, 11:13 PM
#51
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Thread Starter
Tomorrow,
Switch the A/C tops (to plug my 3.0 lines in)
Finish the crossover (I will have to weld the 3.4 bottom connector to my 3.0 exhaust as well)
Put the engine in
Fab a new power steering line
Try to hook the rear break line into the "T" thing
Start on wiring.
Switch the A/C tops (to plug my 3.0 lines in)
Finish the crossover (I will have to weld the 3.4 bottom connector to my 3.0 exhaust as well)
Put the engine in
Fab a new power steering line
Try to hook the rear break line into the "T" thing
Start on wiring.
10-13-2010, 03:45 PM
#52
Registered User
Thread Starter
Update
Got the motor in today!
That crossover I built.....its a no-go...I hits a little part of the suspension and the heat shield covering the metal lines that run up that area....I will be busting out the saw-zaw and ordering some headers here in a few days.
I also think Im going to try what Monch did and use the 3.0 power steering line.
That crossover I built.....its a no-go...I hits a little part of the suspension and the heat shield covering the metal lines that run up that area....I will be busting out the saw-zaw and ordering some headers here in a few days.
I also think Im going to try what Monch did and use the 3.0 power steering line.
10-13-2010, 07:31 PM
#54
Registered User
Where have you found that makes a 3.4 header? Everything that I found while doing my research dumped on the passenger side(OBX, TRD, etc.), which as you know doesn't work. The downeys that I used both dump down the sides of the bellhousing, but they are discontinued due to Downey being out of busineess for a while now.
What side are you hitting the suspension on?
What side are you hitting the suspension on?
10-13-2010, 08:43 PM
#55
Registered User
Thread Starter
I was going to see if there is someone on here or on cragslist is selling Downey headers ( like the ones in evolta's thread). Can the exhaust shop make and install a new crossover with the engine installed? I could fix it my self but I REEEEALLY don't feel like pulling the engine again to do so! I figured to not have to remove the engine I would have to cut out the cross over I made and install headers.
I am hitting that long bar right above the frame rail....its kinda hard to describe it connects right by the motor mount and runs back under the cab. Its just barely hitting it but enough to block it from connecting to the rest of the exhaust. I just had an epiphany....I may just buy the custom crossover from ORS or something....wow, really slow today....But again, will I have to pull the engine to install it?
Last edited by vital22re; 10-14-2010 at 10:49 AM.
10-13-2010, 09:03 PM
#56
Registered User
Thread Starter
10-14-2010, 07:34 AM
#57
Registered User
Sounds like it is hitting your driver's side torsion bar.
I think your best course of action would be to go to toyonlyswaps.com and give them a ring. They can sell you a custom crossover professionally welded that you can bolt right in. This would be your best bet for not having to pull the motor back out. That or find used Downey's somewhere like I did. It's still going to be a paiin in the a$$ to get it in there, but it is possible, even more so with a body lift.
Personally, I would undo the motor mounts and the trans mount and pull the whole thing forward a little to make it easier to put on.
I think your best course of action would be to go to toyonlyswaps.com and give them a ring. They can sell you a custom crossover professionally welded that you can bolt right in. This would be your best bet for not having to pull the motor back out. That or find used Downey's somewhere like I did. It's still going to be a paiin in the a$$ to get it in there, but it is possible, even more so with a body lift.
Personally, I would undo the motor mounts and the trans mount and pull the whole thing forward a little to make it easier to put on.
10-14-2010, 09:30 AM
#58
Registered User
Thread Starter
Sounds like it is hitting your driver's side torsion bar.
I think your best course of action would be to go to toyonlyswaps.com and give them a ring. They can sell you a custom crossover professionally welded that you can bolt right in. This would be your best bet for not having to pull the motor back out. That or find used Downey's somewhere like I did. It's still going to be a paiin in the a$$ to get it in there, but it is possible, even more so with a body lift.
Personally, I would undo the motor mounts and the trans mount and pull the whole thing forward a little to make it easier to put on.
I think your best course of action would be to go to toyonlyswaps.com and give them a ring. They can sell you a custom crossover professionally welded that you can bolt right in. This would be your best bet for not having to pull the motor back out. That or find used Downey's somewhere like I did. It's still going to be a paiin in the a$$ to get it in there, but it is possible, even more so with a body lift.
Personally, I would undo the motor mounts and the trans mount and pull the whole thing forward a little to make it easier to put on.
Until then, I am going to plug everything in, start the motor, and make sure everything is still operating properly...Then engine, when I bought it hadnt been started for about a year. When we started it there was a very very light tint of white smoke for about a miniute...I am figuring it was just condensation from sitting for a year. Plus, it was about 40 degrees out side. Im thinking its not the head gasket because it didnt look anything like the white smoke that was coming out of my 3.0......we will see.
