theMonch

I highly recommend the TIS 15 bucks. It is well worth it. I have the '96 EWD's for a T-100 as well as the '97 that I used. (I downloaded 1 year before and after just in case)

PM me your e-mail and I can send to you if you want, but like I said. the TIS site is great. You can get the EWD's as well as the repair manuals for both truck in 1 afternoon for the $15.

YOTAARMYGUY

Here is the 3.0


This is the 3.4






The Beautiful "kaylee"

YOTAARMYGUY

Thanks man! I went ahead and spent the $15 for TIS (2-Day Subscription). Excellent website, although, they did not have the Overall Wiring Diagram for the 4Runner...No biggie, found it on another website!

Going to start tearing out the 3.0 tomorrow and hopefully reroute the fuel lines and build the crossover before the days over....I really need an engine stand for drilling the dipstick tube and changing out the oil pans.....Harbor Freight has one for 50 bucks.....Just might grab it.

If there is anyone in or around the Longview TX area reading this, hit me up if you want to join in on the swap!

theMonch

Yeah TIS rocks. I really pushed it to the limit by downloading stuff for anything I thought I might have in the future.

Harbor Freight will definetly come in handy for all of those things you might rent, but could buy there instead and have for next time.

YOTAARMYGUY

Alrighty! Got the 3.0 out........took a lot longer than I thought!!! That top transmission bolt is no joke!!

Now, a few questions.

1. Is it possible to reroute the fuel line without buying another line? (use existing materials)?

2. Will the T100 transmission clips on the harness clip right in to my A340H? Or do I need to keep those wires and plugs?

3. What can I get out of there that I dont need for the 3.4? I.E. Vacuum hose's, electrical stuff....etc......

Thanks!

theMonch

1. Is it possible to reroute the fuel line without buying another line? (use existing materials)?
Yes, you can flip the feed line up on the motor from driver to passenger side and it should reach right to the hard line from the 3.0.

2. Will the T100 transmission clips on the harness clip right in to my A340H? Or do I need to keep those wires and plugs?
I doubt that they'll line up, but the clips can be removed from the 3.4 harness and placed anywhere you need them. Half of them are taped to the wire looming and the other half are simply clamped around the looming. (atleast this is the way my 3.4 was)


3. What can I get out of there that I dont need for the 3.4? I.E. Vacuum hose's, electrical stuff....etc......

You should be able to remove just about everything but the 3.0 fuse block. Including coil, igniter VSV's etc. I left my 3.0 Evap cannister because I chose to use it for it's small size compared to the 3.4 EVAP box.

YOTAARMYGUY

Damn your fast!

Ok, when you say flip the feed.....What do you mean by that? Like disconnect it from the fuel rail?

Ahbustae86

"Flip" Bend the feed line that goes into the fuel rail to point towards the passenger side. I took mines out and bend it and reinstalled. The 3.0 line will reach the 3.4 line and they can be connected.

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

or instead of risking pinching the line by bending it... loosen the banjo bolt that holds the line to the fuel rail so you can spin the fitting on bolt.

theMonch

Yes, what Vital said. Do not bend anything... at the fuel rails especially. The banjo bolt on the back of the passenger fuel rail is loosed then the line is flipped to the other side and then tightened again. If you do some searches on here there should be a picture somewhere. I had to "tweak" the 3.0 hard line down by the frame to gain clearance for my headers, but if you are going custom crossover with driver side drop, this will not be a problem for you.

YOTAARMYGUY

Thanks guys, I think I understand what you guys are talking about.

If I've got it right, should be the banjo fitting you are talking about......


And this is where the Jerk that was helping me remove it cut the dang line.....He must have cut it when I wasnt looking because I told him like 5 times not to cut the lines....Should I get one out of a junk yard or just buy a new one?




Now, have any of you bypassed the ABS pump thingy? Im going to do some searching to see what other did here in a little bit. I'm thinking I can just take the brake line from the back, bend it up a little, and just plug it into that litte tree, 4 plug thing, where the line from the pump thingy is going......will take pictures to better describe what im talking about.....

I will be switching out the oil pans, splash treys, pick up, sender, and dip stick today hopefully! I think Im going to save the crossover for last.

YOTAARMYGUY

Empty engine bay.



And again....The magnificent 3.4!!!

YOTAARMYGUY

Wow, just got back from the junk yard....That fuel line bracket was a b^#*! to get to!

Here's the Fuel line $25:


Rims I found while at the junk yard $150: (A little dirty but in good shape, will be painting them black):


Here is the picture of the break idea...let me know if you dont think this will work:

YOTAARMYGUY

Running total on swap (prices rounded to the nearest dollar):

Engine...................$475.00 (Craigslist)
Harness.................$100.00 (Craigslist)
Engine hoist............$210.00 (Harbor Freight)
Engine stand...........$54.00 (Harbor Freight)
Fuel hose...............$25.00 (Junk Yard)
Rims......................$150.00 (Junk Yard)
Double flaring tool....$27.00 (Harbor Freight)
Tube Cutter............$5.00 (Harbor Freight)

Total......................$1046.00

Still have not reached what I would have had to pay for just the machining and valve job with seal kit from a local shop on the 3.0. ($1220.00, plus the power steering vacuum thing I broke.....~$110.00 after shipping) AAAAAnnddd, I can part out the left over stuff, and sell some of the tools I bought (engine hoist, engine stand, T100 oil pan, stock rims, 3.0 block and what not, etc......)

I plan to build my own crossover and build a new power steering hose from the 3.0 and 3.4 lines....we will see how well these two projects go haha...

I am trying to stay under $2500.00 with the body lift, tires, and other misc things....

P.S. I really don't have any automotive experience, never pulled a motor, and never welded..... So if you are thinking about doing this swap and on the fence about it....take it from a beginner that this swap really isn't too complicated....not yet at least...we will see what I have to say about it when I get to the wiring.

dntsdad

the power steering hose isnt that hard. I copied what Cadman did sort of.

After the motor is in take the stock 3.4 hose from the pump, route it towards the steering box. Attach the stock 3.0 hose and route it towards the pump along the brackets under the radiator. I cut both hoses where they met and then bought some round tubing from Lowes and cut a 2" piece to act as a sleeve to join the two hoses together. Then welded it up around the seam. My first attempt leaked badly so I had to repeat the whole process and then it was sealed correctly without leaks.
I cant find a picture but its probably in Cadman's thread here If you have not read this thread, you should.

What I did with the brake actuator.
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...23/index6.html

YOTAARMYGUY

DNTSDAD,

Awesome links!!!! Just the info I was looking for!

Ive got the oil pans dropped, and little buildup on the baffle plate and pick up, no big deal, wire brush took it all off. What are you guys using to get that Toyota gasket stuff off?

Im pretty sure Im just going to cut that third leg off my pick up...I dont really like that 3.0 baffle plate.

Going to have to wait until tomorrow and possibly tues to get the Toyota gasket stuff....Grrr.....I dont know why I didnt pick it up last week.

YOTAARMYGUY

Oh, and is removing all that ABS stuff from the back necessary? or can I just plug that line into that T thing? Reason I am asking is because none of the junk yards around me have any Toyota's (well, one has a 1996 4runner, but thats it) and I am not trying to spend a fortune to buy new stuff.

dntsdad

I used a small wire wheel attached to a drill. harbor Freight sells them cheap.

I found a guy parting out a truck that was nonABS and bought the long brake line from the front to the rear.
The thing in the back is the LPSV and not a part of the abs system. I proportions the fluid to your rear brakes according to the weight in the bed. I removed mine and replaced with a manual proportioning valve. Not necessary to remove the abs stuff though.

YOTAARMYGUY

Sweet! (That I dont have to remove that stuff).

Ok, Minor problem. I cant find the torque specs for the baffle plate in the FSM I downloaded.......anyone know them off the top of your head? Im assuming it should be anything more than like 13ft lbs....

Update: cut the leg off the pickup and had to grind a little bit off the bolt for the baffle plate that sits right behind the pick up, but it fits perfectly! Will get pics up tonight.


....Still cant believe I have to wait to get that dang gasket stuff......

YOTAARMYGUY

I think I may have stripped one of the baffle bolts a little....My dang torque wrench isnt working or something.

There is some fishy stuff going on....First, the oil pans look identical to me (Are they the same?).....Second, The oil sender's are identical in size, one has a plastic housing and the other has a metal housing(are they the same?)....Thirdly, the oil dipstick holes are in the same place on both motors but the dip stick tunnels are diffrent and mount diffrently, and the T100 dip stick is about an inch longer...Does this mean I wont have to drill a new hole ???

Here are the pics....

3.0 oil sender (90 4runner 4x4)


3.4 oil sender (95 T100 4x4)


3.0 pan (90 4runner 4x4)


3.4 pan (95 T100 4x4)


Will have to get pics of the oil dip stick....