JGrund85

Vroom vroom went the motor today!

She started.. ..I screwed up when doing to timing belt . I was assuming the TDC mark on the crankshaft gear was the outer mark. I lined up the inner mark and she fired pretty shortly after.

New problem...when it first started up it ran and idled well...didn't let it run to long (maybe 10 seconds) because I didn't have the radiator or any of the accessories hooked up and don't have a desire to burn up my motor since there was no coolant in it. So I got everything hooked up and added water and power steering fluid, hooked up the rest of my electrical connections etc. When I went to start it again, it took about 30 seconds worth of cranking before it turned over. After it turned over the first time it ran pretty well for about a minute and then stalled. Since then I have been having the same issue getting it started and then once it gets started it stalls except now it stalls more quickly. I have my headers bolted on so I have a little bit of back pressure. I have one ground that goes from the battery to the body that is a pretty small wire that I need to change out for a bigger wire. I'm thinking this might be part of the issue?? I ran the obd2 scanner and was getting 3 p0700 codes which all referred to auto transmission codes. I also got a O2 code and some heater code as well as some MIL code. I didn't write them all down. My battery then died so i didn't have an oppurtunity to pull all the codes or continue to try and start it.

does anyone have any ideas regarding my starting and idling issue? Could it be something as simply as my ground's not being sufficient? The battery ground to the body got extremely hot while I was starting it. I was thinking about running a 4 guage from the battery ground to the body and seeing if this works out. Any suggestions would be very appreciative. If I can figure out the starting and idling issue I can have her driveable tomorrow evening.

So far this has been a somewhat easy swap...I am so ready to be done with it though.

JGrund85

any ideas??

mt_goat

That's a big red flag

Did you use the 3.4 battery harness? It runs huge ground and power cables from the starter to the battery and also has this big ground from the block to the battery:

mt_goat

Sounds like you used an auto ECU for your 5 speed tranny?

What are you using for the O2 sensor?

JGrund85

Yes I definitely did not have things grounded properly. Now it starts up and runs, but it still stalls every time. It will run for about a minute or two and then stops.

I am using an auto harness and ecu with my 5 speed.

I ran the Code check again and get these codes from the Actron CP9125 OBD2 pocket scanner:
Reads exactly like this
3 Codes
P0758
P0773
P0773 p/d
MIL On
Monitrs
4 Inc
Catlyst
Evap
O2 Snsr
O2 Htr
Misfire
Fuel
Comp

Yes there are a lot. But I can't figure out what all of them mean. I understand the first 4.

I plugged in my O2 sensor just to try and see if that would fix anything.

I also get a severe squeal once it gets ready to stall. sounds similar to a idler bearing about to seize.

RobD

Awww, man, so close. I wish I could help you. We know that you're running an auto ECU with a manual, so that's where the big part of your codes are coming from.

Now, this is a guess, but it would seem that part of your problem is with your O2 sensor, since it's throwing a heater/sensor warning. You should have two O2 sensors, one upstream of your cat and one downstream. Are they both connected and working properly?

That would be somewhere to look...beyond that, I'm not sure.

RobD

MIL stands for Multifunction Indicator Light, so I would imagine that the "MIL on" code you're seeing is telling you that the system has tripped your check engine light. That's what I guess from Googling it.

JGrund85

Well I plugged in one of the o2 sensors. It almost feels like a fuel issue. I'm going to go through all my fuel circuit relays on saturday and hope to find something. I don't have an additional o2 sensor...I might need to get an additional one from the junk yard.

Any suggestions even if they sound stupid to you might be helpful to me. I'm going to post up an additional thread to try and help me figure this ordeal out. I need this thing running by the end of next week. actually saturday would be best.

RobD

Do you have wiring diagrams for your fuel pump control circuit?

JGrund85

I don't think so...but I have the trouble shooting manual...which I do believe has the wiring diagram. I have never done anything with fuel circuits or anything like this. Gonna be fun to deal with I guess.

RobD

Well, I'm looking through mine and it doesn't seem to be that tough to trace. If your 99 is anything like my 97, you should be able to troubleshoot the relays pretty easily. What it looks like is that when you put power to the starter, it triggers the fuel pump relay (obviously, so the engine gets fuel) and the circuit opening relay. It looks like it takes information from the crankshaft position sensor to tell that the engine is running. If not, the FC (fuel control output on the ECM, I guess) cuts off the fuel circuit opening relay.

I can send you the diagrams and diagnostics from my 97 manual, if you'd like.

JGrund85

yeah that'd be great...mine is actually a 97 motor as well. Send me those if you can...JGrund85@gmail.com. Thanks

JGrund85

What about the IAC valve under the throttle body? Could that be causing any problems?

JGrund85

I don't want to distract from the main issue at hand, but pictures are way past due....

RobD

I suppose it could be, so I sent you the IAC pages, too. Install looks a lot like mine!

Just a dumb question, but where's your throttle cable?

RobD

It looks like you've got at least one open vacuum line. Cap this one off and see if it makes a difference.

JGrund85

I decided that it would be way cooler if I could drive sitting at the front of the vehicle and would operate the butterfly valve by hand haha. No I broke the 3.0 cable when I pulled to old motor...I'm awaiting a new throttle cable from yotaman and it should be here tomorrow. It's gonna be fun replacing it with the motor in the bay.

Those vaccum lines are just the metal inbetween the old VSV sensor. If you look right to the left or behind the throttle body you can see the hose that goes toward the vsv sensor on top of the charcoal canister. I don't think that is my problem as it doesn't hook up to anything on either end...but it was a good thought...thanks...keep them coming.

RobD

Look at the vacuum hose on the left that I've circled in yellow (the rubber one, not the metal one). It would normally be connected to your EVAP canister. That should be capped off if you're not using it. You'd be surprised what a difference it makes when your engine is sucking air in through them. Trust me.

Also, you need to get your charging circuit wired up so your battery is being recharged. Low voltage might contribute to some of your headaches.

JGrund85

Yeah I see, but that hose makes a 180* turn and goes all the way to the top of my charcoal canister where I have the VSV sensor mounted and runs into that sensor and then the other end runs into the charcoal canister. I know it looks cut but it isn't.

JGrund85

excuse the drawing...but this is how the hose is routed