RcBro

Hey Guys. First, this 3.4 section has some killer tech. Very neat to see!

A little background. I've done several RZ 4cyl swaps without issues. Having done these I jumped over to my first 3.4 .

The motor I wired was an 2002 3.4 from a manual tacoma. Its going into a 90 4runner. Buddy has no knowledge of the condition of the 3.4 nor did he get to see it run. So we go from here.

After completing the wiring the truck would not issue start or run. After verifying the COR was supplying power the fuel pump we attempted to crank the motor a few more times. Nothing.

We then disconnected the MAF and the engine started, sputtered and died. It did this several times, each time running longer, but extremely rough. We then connected the MAF with same rough running then dieing results.

I've checked all my connections and to me they are all rather straight forward. The only thing I'm not familiar with is this IK2 #25 Blue/Black



My original assumption was it was not needed, so I simply capped the connection. However, I'm beginning to second guess my self. Is this item needed to be reconnected somewhere. Could it prevent this motor from running.

I'm also reading an 02 is a partical Drive by wire system. However, none of my FSM prove this. I saw one member with an 02 who has an E5 #8 wire that he sent 12V to. Then all worked well. I do not have this wire.

I wish I was a mechanic, but I'm not. Not sure where to begin with this potential headache Any help would be greatly appreciated.

SacRunner

I'd wager a great deal of money that blue/black wire is a shared ground. The dead give away is the connection at the ECU to the "E2" signal (connector D pin 11); I think I've deciphered most of Toyota's naming conventions and I believe "E" is short for "Earth" which is another name for "Ground" in the electronics world.

Then there's the fact that it's shared between a number of components, which means it's either a +12V ("+B" in Toyota diagrams) or a ground.

slacker

iTrader: (1)

isn't 2002 "drive by wire " ?

I'm sure it is ...

I have sircumvented this issue by replacing the t/B and wiring + computer


.

RcBro

Turns out it wasn't this wire in question from keeping it running. I tried to pull codes but no codes would come up. We tried a new MAF even after ground this wire with same results.

We plugged half the air flow to the intake and fed it some starting fluid, once we did this we were able to get it to run. It sounded odd. We checked spark, then fuel. Then compression. #2 cynlider had zero compression. Time for rebuild.

Just wanted to post up our findings. I tried everything under the sun before this point. The Blue/black wire WILL NOT keep your motor from running. It may or may no throw codes (never got this far)