theMonch

Alright Here we go.
So I picked up my donor last Saturday from a board member. The experience could not have been better. I was on a very strick time schedule and he was extremely gracious with accomodating me. Its a 97 T100 5VZFE 5 speed 4WD, and she was cheap!

So after getting her home, yanking the trailer out from under it by tying it to a fence post..I put in the battery I lifted from my vette...stuck in the $25 dollar fuel pump I got off of eBay...replaced some fuses...patched up the rusty fuel line...and varooom...she started right up!

This thing runs so good it actually has caused me some sligh grief with my gameplan. Originally I had every intention of performing a full rebuild on the long block since the motor was going to be out anyways. But it runs so good, doesn't leak anywhere, hell even the AC compressor works! The motor has 140k according to the ODO. I am going to perform a compression test on it in the next few days, but I have confidence that it is going to come out in specs.

I plan on swapping it into my 88 4runner 3VZ R150 truck. I have already acquired a 2nd gen TRD supercharger and am gathering together some of the other rare and hard to find stuff for it like the Downey Headers (PM or email me if you have a set to sell). I intend to get either the 6 injector or the 7th injector URD fuel upgrades as well.

I have been reading extensively on this board, 4x4 wire, ttora, and a few other sources for info on this swap. I think I have a pretty good grasp of what is involved, but was just looking for a little reinforcement to some of my assumptions.

Here is my game plan:

Engine Mounting:
3.4 from donor
R150 trans and transfer left alone in recipient
Pressure plate, disk and pilot bearing from 3.4
Throw out bearing from 3.0
Motor mounts from 3.0
complete 3.0 clutch hydraulics get reused.

Cooling System:
Radiator from 3.0
Fan, fan clutch and shroud from 3.0
Outlet neck from 3.0 swapped onto 3.4
Hoses - upper and lower rad hoses mix and match from parts store
heater hoses - mix and match from donor, recipient, or parts store.

Fuel Delivery:
Rotate the high pressure hose from driver side to passenger side and mating with original 3.0 hard line. (Probably have the URD fuel T line in there somewhere as well if I go for the 7th injector setup.)
Rotate the low pressure return to the passenger side and mate with original 3.0 return line.

Air Conditioning:
AC compressor from 3.4 with switching the top plate from the 3.0 compressor and using 3.0 lines.

Power and Charging:
Alternator from 3.0 (I know that 3.4 is easier, but I have an upgraded 140 amp that is fairly new, and would want to keep it.) I will use the 3.4 main bracket and alter either the 3.0 or 3.4 tension bracket. Since I am going with the supercharger the adjustment will be in the dynamic tensioner.
Battery relocated to driver side using an aftermarket battery tray bolted in place. Extending and up-gauging the main underhood fuse box power lead and running across engine bay to the 3.0 fuse box. Use coil and igniter from 3.4

Power Steering:
3.4 pump and brackets left alone. Grafting the pump side of the 3.4 high pressure hose to the steering box end of the 3.0 hose to retain idle up functionality. Using 3.0 low pressure hose.

Wiring:
Use the 3.4 engine harness and the 3.4 ECU. Splice into the dash harness where needed and add OBD II port. (i know that this is very generalized, but I didn't think it was worth getting into detail about yet)

Cruise Control:
Use the 3.0 vacuum cruise control relocated to the passenger side and alter cable to work with 3.4 throttle body. (change cable end)

Gauges and senders:
Keep the stock cluster and do the 10 ohm resister mod on the tach. Use the 3.0 oil pressure sender and patch in the sender's connector from the 3.0 harness to the 3.4's harness. Use the 3.4 temp sender.

Exhaust:
I hope to get a set of Downey headers that dump on both sides of the trans and fab up my own crossover under the trans before the transfer case and graft to existing stainless 2.5" from cat back. Weld in O2 sensor bung after cat for second O2 and use stock bung for front sensor. If I can't get my hands on the Downeys than I will attempt the budget crossover mod that switches the stock crossover to the driver side and graft down pipe to existing exhaust same as mentioned.

Hood Clearance:
I am going to play this by ear. I probably will cut the hood to clearance it and use a scoop as I am not a big fan of body lifts.

I am really looking forward to this swap. I have had the 88 for 17 years and it is time to give her a little supercharger 3.4 love!!! I thank all of you for the knowledge I have gained from this board to get me to this point (you know who you are), and I thank you in advance for the help I am sure I will be receiving as I go along. I plan to perform the swap in a one month timeframe with one full week of entire days and the other three with working night and weekends. I hope to get stated in the beginning of May.

theMonch

OK, so here are my initial questions:

1. Since I have a donor 5VZ from a 97 T100 4WD 5 speed I dont have to even take the pan off this thing or mess with the dipstick location? It should go right in with the pan, pickup and baffle that are on it now, and the dipstick location? (as far as crankcase components are concerned)

2. If I am correct with number 1 and the compression test comes back good, do you think it is even worth while to rebuild the motor?

3. If I use the 3.4 AC compressor and swap the top plates, do I have to use the AC amplifier as well?, or can I use the electronics from the 3.0 left intact? If I do, is it possible to just keep the whole 3.0 system including the compressor and electronics and mount it to the 3.4?

theMonch

Here they are facing off to see who gets the 3.4. winner.....4Runner.

theMonch

I just sent out a few PMs to some of the "greats" like cadman, elvolta, mr.goat and yotaman to see if i can stir up a little support. Sorry if i left anyone off the list. I know there have been a few others who have done this b4, and your input is welcome as well.

dntsdad

I THINK that you are going to want to keep the pan that is off your vehicle whatever that is so that it clears your suspension during compression. If you have done a straight axle swap then you want the T100 pan i am pretty sure.

Personally if you knew it ran and the compression is good I would install it but that matters on how much you need THIS vehicle to daily drive, your budget, etc. If money is no concern and neither is time, the rebuild would last a lifetime possible in a rarely driven vehicle.

I swapped plates and thats it. I havent gotten the AC to work so i cannot help you there. Hopefully in the next few weeks though as its starting to warm up here.

By the way, kudos on CLEARLY doing your homework and knowing what is needed for this swap. You clearly have read your ass off.

Keep us updated.....

mt_goat

If you can (I didn't try because I have an e-fan) try to use the 3.4 fan clutch. From this info it looks like it will cool better: http://www.mr2.com/files/mr2/techinf...a/3vzVS5vz.pdf

Outlet neck swap??? Never heard of doing that Is that so you can use a stock 3.0 rad hose or something?

I'll try to look at more later...

dntsdad

Hmmm......thats interesting.

My 3.4 fan from the donor was ruined in a crash so i used the 3.0 fan and shroud. I'll monitor it as it gets warmer and see if i have issues but so far it stays in range.

I swapped my 3.0 inlet onto the 3.4 and used a stock, off the shelf bottom hose from Napa. I think that I cut about an inch of the radiator side. Its tight but doesnt rub anywhere.

cadman

I'm using the 3.4 clutch and later model 3.0 fan (no ring). I trimmed both ends of the 3.0 inlet hose to get it correctly centered and allow adequate flex when the engine torques. How much you trim will depend on whether or not you use new engine isolators and how high the rear end of the tranny is finally mounted. Tight or snug is not your friend with hoses.

mt_goat

Now I have heard of swapping the inlet (t-stat cover), but not the outlet.

mt_goat

1) I can't answer

2) Have you ever done that kind of work before? Because that would be my biggest worry, that a bad rebuild might be worse than the factory build @ 140k miles. If not, I'd just consider doing the timing belt, water pump stuff and checking the valve clearances.

3) You don't have to use the 3.4 AC amp with the 3.4 compressor, its all in how the conversion wiring harness is done. ORS wired mine to use the 3.4 compressor and all the rest of the system is 3.0, including the top plate on the compressor. I did convert to R134 though.

mt_goat

Nice 4runner! That is a great 3.4 swap candidate.

mt_goat

I have seen one guy (Jasond) that runs the front (and rear I guess) O2 sensor on just one side of the exhaust (3 cylinders) without a problem according to him. You might have to do that to get the front sensor as close to the stock location (distance) to the engine as possible. Keep in mind the bank (side) that the ECU doesn't see feedback on, byway of the front O2 sensor, could have a rich/lean condition go undetected by the ECU.

With a SCer you will need the URD fuel mods, it is especially important with that early model 5VZFE ECU as the old style narrow band O2 sensor it uses can't adjust the fueling as good as the newer wideband A/F ratio sensors.

I can't see any flaws in the rest of your plan, except for maybe the time frame but maybe you work faster than I can.

theMonch

thanks for coming everyone. I appreciate all the input.

dntsdad, i dont know how i missed you on my list of the great 3.4 swaps, but your definetly there now. Thanks for recognizing my labors up till this point. Yes, I have been doing lots of reading.

theMonch

MrGoat - thanks on the compliment. This 4Runner has been my DD for many years, but i like to keep her up to snuff. Sorry, i meant swap the inlet from the 3.0 to the 3.4, not the outlet.

Thanks for that document that compares the two motors, thats some great reading!!!

It's good to know that ORS was able to wire your harness to use the 3.0 electronics with the 3.4 compressor. This is the way I think I'm going as well.

If I am able to get my hands on the Downey headers I plan to crossover under the trans with a custom y pipe to merge pre-cat. this way both O2's will be after the merge.

I am unfamiliar with the importance of the distance of the O2 location downstream. The T100 has it's first sensor on the downpipe right before the cat, which is pretty much where my single stock sensor is on the 3.0 now. i was planning to use the stock 3.0 bung for the front sensor, and weld in new bung for downstream sensor.

I absolutely plan on the URD fuel mods, I wouldn't bolt the SC on without them. I am just undecided if I am going with the larger 6 injector solution or the 7th injector way. I like the 7th injector for its ability to be removed along with the SC if I have to for some reason.

theMonch

Good to know. I think I will change my plans to using the 3.4 fan clutch, and the 3.0 fan when I get there or try to go with an electric setup like MrGoat.

theMonch

Hey Goat, how are you activating the fan in your electric setup? just on with ignition or with a switch or something?

theMonch

So I guess my big question still remains. will the T100's pan oil pickup and baffle work with my 88 IFS setup? From what I read on ORS's site and a few other sources is yes. I guess I'll just wait till I have both side by side and see with this one. It,s hard to eyeball them when they are both on the trucks still.

theMonch

I know it seems a little tight, but I like to set ambitious goals for myself, so when I fail it keeps my ego in check. : )

I plan on having the donor motor out and prepped to go in before the May "start" date.

mt_goat

It's been covered here: https://www.yotatech.com/919669-post62.html

theMonch

In preperation I thought I would pop the supercharger out of the box and clean it up (is used with 65k on it). I also did an inventory on the miscelaneous parts to make sure that it was all there. Looks good as far as parts go. I plan to do a snout oil change with new coupler before I bolt it on the 5VZ.Plus it's just fun to look at .

I also assembled my Harbor Freight 2 ton foldable engine hoist that I picked up for $151 with tax. It was $45 to rent for a day local, so this just seemed like a good investment. I also broke out my old engine stand that was last used in 93 and has been hiding behind my parents garage ever since. It's not pretty, but it will get the job done. Just got to go pick up some M12x1.25 bolts to hold the motor to the stand, and I'm ready to go with equipment.

I also have a beat on a set of used Downey headers that hopefully will come through thanks to Willcipher. I am undecided on using the Downeys, or using the custom crossover from Toyonlyswaps.com. I know if I ever need to offload them if I don't use them, it shouldn't be too hard. I'll make that decision once the 5VZ is in the '88.