cadman

Here's where I am as of last weekend:

















This weekend the tranny should go in and the fun part of hooking everything up starts. I still have plenty of work to do and at the end of it all I still have to face the smog referee before I can actually drive the thing. I've forgotten how long my truck has been down now, but if I remember correctly it's been sitting in the garage since '03 or '04.

cadman

Last weekend.

UKMyers

I edited your post so your pics would show up. Once you upload them onto photobucket click on the IMG box instead of URL and it will put [IMG] tags on it so it shows up as a pic instead of a URL.

Keep up the good work on your swap and keep posting pictures!

Workhorse

Lookin' very nice

racedirt1

Are you using 2 x 4's as wheel chocks?

zlathim

Man- That engine and trans/tc are gleamingly clean! Sweet looking setup, now get your ass back to work!

cadman

Thanks for the edit. Now I know what that IMG box is for.

2x4s and the rear brake. Looks kind of sketchy but it won't go anywhere.


Thanks for the compliments everyone. Getting this swap done is a long time coming and I hope to get it running real quick. I rebuilt the engine from the ground up, so it is essentially a new engine. I also rebuilt the transfer case and replaced the seals & filter on the tranny. I'll be posting more pictures.

RobD

I think I speak for the folks like me who have done the swap...you're going to love the result. It will feel like a brand new truck.

cadman

Time to bolt the tranny and engine together. Headless bolts are the way to go to line up the tranny & engine. After everything is mated and shoved together, I tighten the four bellhousing screws I can reach and peer into the access window, and see I left a screw on the torque converter. Getting the transmission and engine separated is harder than putting it back together. 15 minutes later I remove the screw and everything is back to normal.


Now I install the cross member to see how everything lines up in general.




In it's unconstrained condition, the hole patterns are offset 2.190" towards the rear. The engine isolators are also squeezed at the front.





I'm going to take a 3/4" plate and drill/tap the hole patterns to temporarily mount the tranny. In the picture the transfer case is raised about 3/4" and I think that looks correct. I'm also going to shift the hole pattern to move the engine/tranny forward about 1/4" to 3/8" to get the isolators centered. Without the tranny in place the isolators were centered, so the weight of the entire assembly plus the slope of the driveway is causing the rearward shift. I'm going to get a cross member made locally, maybe from one of the customers I had when I had my machine shop. I tried contacting Bud at Budbuilt, but haven't had a reply back, so I'll take care of it myself.

cadman

A test fit with the intake tract in place shows a good fit.





There is plenty of space around the airbox, even with the old battery mount still in place. I'm going to cut it all out and use rubber mounts on the bottom of the airbox and machine the rest of the mounting straps.



There sure is a lot more space on the new intake side versus the 3.0. It's a little tighter on the other side with the steering shaft, but still easier to work with.

cadman

Here is how I dealt with the shifter.

My truck doesn't have a rear console, so I don't have the same considerations to deal with as far as matching the consoles. I got the shifter (plus a bunch of other parts) from someone doing a diesel conversion on his 2000 Tacoma. I bought the console for a 2001 Tacoma with grey interior, I think the color is called Dark Charcoal.

Stock floor cutout.




I found a second shifter assembly for cheap and used it to make patterns. Here I made cardboard jigs to line up the floor pattern and make sure I didn't cut out too much.




Finished.




Next I made a subplate that would mount to the floor. This was my first attempt with .03" thick 304 stainless sheet. Later I would cut the windows a little too big, and I felt the sheet was a little too thin. So I bought .04" thick 4140 sheet and made my plate from that instead. The end result was the shifter assembly fit perfect.




I used epoxy made for laminating steel and glued the plate to the floor, and after it was dry and cured I securely fastened it with MM6 rivet nuts. The shifter assembly secures to the floor just like it came that way from the factory.




A few coats of primer on the bottom.

cadman

Test fit.













The Tacoma the shifter assembly came out of had tan interior, so I bought a grey knob, OD switch, button, and the sleeve the button slides in. I thought about painting the items at first, but that would be too much hassle and in long term use paint would most likely not hold up well.

cadman

The ECT switch is going on the dash like on the Tacomas. I cut off the stock 3.0 ECT connector and spliced it onto an ECT switch from a 2004 Tacoma. There are 4 wires going to, 5 wires coming from the 3.0 connector, and 4 wires coming from the 2004 switch. I couldn't find anything as far as wiring diagrams for my year truck that showed how the ECT switch was wired, and I couldn't find anything for the 2004 switch that showed what those extra wires are for, so using a voltmeter I came to the conclusion that only 2 wires actually did anything. If anyone knows something different, let me know.

infiltrator

Damn, you live in the OC. I am not too far. You should help a brother out when this brother gets his 3.4

Would you mind if I pick your brain before I do mine, in case there is something I cannot find on here?

cadman

Not a problem. If you have questions, feel free to ask. My swap is still a work in progress, but I'm getting close to the end. I took a lot of pictures when I rebuilt the heat/vent system (everything is new), the dash, engine, and transfer case. All of the 3.4 swaps share a common thread as far as major fits and parts, but I've found the details differ depending on components (tranny, t-case, etc...) and vehicles. The major stuff is easy but its the details that slow you down a bit, and if you have an older truck/4Runner you will probably run into roadblocks with the wiring. Toyota did a fairly poor job of documenting the wiring on these vehicles.

cadman

The transmission dipstick just touches the steering shaft. I have a 1" body lift which allows the engine to fit without cutting the hood, but raises the rear portion of the steering shaft enough to touch the dipstick. I'll be moving the engine & tranny forward with the new cross member, so this will be a non-issue.

cadman

I'm using the stock 3.4 battery harness and it needs to be routed under the steering shaft. To get some length and keep the harness from being stressed, I opened the convoluted cover and pulled out the alternator lead. It originally exits from the main harness about 3-4" lower than where it is now. I also cut out that white 90 degree form that gave the lead it's slightly square shape. Then I cut off about 1" of the cover and wrapped everything back up. That cable clamp will bolt to an existing hole right next to it. Now the alternator leads have plenty of movement and don't touch or hang up on anything.

cadman

I wish I could cut a hole in the firewall and bolt the flange right up, but it doesn't look really possible, or practical, so I modified the cover. After I came home with the engine I found a few broken connectors, so I bought a used harness to cannibalize. As an extra bonus, several vsv's were still attached.

First I cut the flange from the harness.
Next, I removed the long bellows from the spare harness.
After documenting the wire locations, I removed all of the connectors and slid the bellows onto the harness and tucked the end into the existing bellows.
Next, I cut out the center of the 3.0 grommet so it had to stretch slightly to slide over the 3.4 harness. It slid onto the end of the bellows and is nice and tight. This weekend I'll seal the section between the two bellows and install the harness in the firewall. I connected the ORS harness, engine harness, 3.0 harness and ECM and managed to get it all squeezed behind the kick panel. The ORS harness takes up some space and it seems like there is no room for it, but looking through the firewall passage from the engine compartment you can see there is more room than it looks. The trick is to pull the engine harness through as far as you can, shove the ORS harness up as far as possible and still be able to reach the connectors, connect the engine harness to the ECM first then pull it back into the engine compartment, connect the ORS harness to the 3.0 harness then connect the last plug from the ORS harness to the ECM. Now start pushing everything up. If you have an antennae lead it might be in the way. Reach around the side of the heater motor and move as required.











I don't really need to apply any sealer to the bellows/grommet area, but I'll do it anyways. Better safe than sorry and I would not be happy if water made it's way through the harness. In the last pic the grommet is backwards. I removed it and put it back on facing the correct direction.

zlathim

You do very nice clean work man. I am impressed with your attention to detail.

cadman

My ORS kit came with a PS line, but it by-passes the idle up valve and I did not want to lose that, and not having the valve may not pass the smog referee here in California. There are two hoses that plug into the intake tract and any modification there will pretty much fail at least the visual inspection, so I just spliced the 3.4 & 3.0 pressure lines together.

I cut the 3.0 line in the middle and the 3.4 line a few inches past that. I used a tube bender to get the 3.4 line positioned correctly and able to use the 3.0 clamps. Once I had it where I wanted, I cut it so there was 5/8" space between the two lines. Then I turned a piece of 1/2" 304 SS rod for a splice. The thru bore diameter is the same as the tubes and I turned counter bores on each end so the tubes just slid in and stayed nice and straight for welding. The bottoms of the c.bores are .625" apart so all of the hard work of bending and positioning won't be for nothing. One of my co-workers is a good tig welder and put a couple nice beads around the splice. A few coats of paint and now I have my idle up valve.