A New High

Got the runner runnin a couple weeks ago, and have been driving it everyday.

It has good power, very peppy, and fun to drive...

I made a real nice, OEM looking rear O2 sim from Jasons schematics; unfortunately, the heater circuit heated up the resistor too much, and started melting the box I built it in; weird part is, it still hasn't thrown a code from having it completely un-plugged(??) Code reader shows all accurate live data, and the cel come on when I first turn the key on before start-up- so I believe the OBD/CEL system is working properly.

On to bigger problems. It idles around 1200rpm when cold, then jumps to 2250rpm once it's warm I've stayed carb cleaner EVERYWHERE and can't find any leaks. Although when i unplug the IAC it idles down to 1200rpm(and drivability is crap), I've taken it apart and cleaned it with no changes.

Any ideas on what to check next? And yes, my throttle cable does have slack in it...

Thanks guys

A New High

Tried plugging the IAC valve supply to bypass it and the idle stays high.

Plugged the EVAP supply hose in case something was haywire there; idle stays high.

Plugged the brake booster supply to check for a leaky booster; still nothing ;/

There is posatively slack in the throttle cable.

I'm gonna try sprayin carb cleaner all over again to see if I can get a reaction.

Quarter tank of gas a day is gettin 'spensive real quick!

dntsdad

Had the same issue on a recent swap. Went through two cans of card cleaner, and lots of propane looking for a leak.

It turned out to be the IAC was full of buildup and needed to be taken apart to clean. When you say you cleaned it, did you remove it and get inside of it, or just spray carb cleaner in it?

I had to scrub in there with carb cleaner and a toothbrush to free it up.

Look here

After that, you are running out of things to check. Maybe use propane on a small torch instead of cleaner to check for leaks. However, the beauty of these motors, compared to the 3.0's, is that there isn't a ton of vacuum lines everywhere so its not that hard to find a leak.

You said you have slack in the cable. I'd just take it off for now.

I've read where guys trace high idle back to the coolant sensor. Not the one for the gauge; the one of the ECM.

Blown head gasket?

tacovr6

I am chasing the same demon right now. Let me know what works best for you.

A New High

Ah fack, why'd you have to throw in that last suggestion?! Haha

Anyway, I scrubbed it with cleaner and a brush, but didn't take it apart... Should it move freely by hand? It didn't... And it wasn't perfectly clean when I put it back on the TB.

Maybe I'll have to try cleaning that again.

I know, I love how few vacuum lines we have on these

Cool, thanks for the suggestions man.

Tacovr6, how thoroughly have you cleaned your IACV?

tacovr6

haven't cleaned it at all. No time to take it apart until tonight. I am still trying to rule out that my vacuum lines are all in the right place. And I have no Evap setup right now..

dntsdad

It should move very freely by hand. If it doesn't i'd bet $100 that is your issue.

You at least need to do it so that you know that ISN"T your issue. Like I said though, if its not moving freely it probably is. About a hour job.

I bought new seals from Toyota when we took our apart but I could have reused the old ones. It a crapshoot on if they will come apart or stay in tact.

They can be gotten at NAPA instead of Toyota.
fpg 61087
fpg 61038

Just a couple bucks for both if I recall correctly

tacovr6

IACV was completely frozen. I freed it up and put it back in, have yet to start it back up. I am sure that was the issue of high idle. I'll keep you posted

tacovr6

idles like a champ! IACV cleaned and idles perfectly.

dntsdad

Good deal. Probably a new high's issue as well.