DWEINBERG01

Sorry. The transmission innerworkings are stuck in neutral. The shifters for both the transmission and t-cases shift smoothly. Would over filling the transmission cause this problem?

jasond

No, overfilling it shouldn't cause it not to move (although I have seen some bubble trans fluid out of the breather when they are overfilled) When you put it in gear - reverse or drive - and then put it back into park do you hear the transmission growl? (Cant think of any other way to describe the noise) If so it most likely is your transfer case stuck in neutral.

DWEINBERG01

No. Nothing growls. I will check again tomorrow. I heave geared cases behind the auto transmission.

dntsdad

When you were driving it, it made no noticeable popping, clinks, etc.

You sure you have all the bolts in the converter to flexplate?

This just seems like something that is simple from the lack of audible symptoms.

DWEINBERG01

Yeah. It made no sounds at all. My transmission tunnel is open except where I bolted the shifter to the floor, so at this point I hear everything. I will recheck all the torque converter / flexplate bolts again today.

If the shifter isn't centered correctly, could that be the issue. It is off center about 1" from it original location, but everything bolted up with no issue.

hamish_18

your transfer case shifter is? Did you take the TC shifter out? Could be that it wasn't put back into the shift forks properly and it is stuck in neutral?

DWEINBERG01

Is there a front and back to transfer case shifters. I can feel the shift rods engaging as I go through the gears.

hamish_18

There are 2 different shift forks in the transfer case. and there is a spring on top of them if you look in there. I believe that I even have put the shifter on the other side of the right shift fork before, and it still clipped in. But it didn't really feel right, and obviously the shifter wouldn't shift the TC. So if it feels correct, then that is most likely not your issue. Has to be an issue with your tranny. did you completely empty your tranny out? Sorry I haven't done an auto swap, nor have I ever worked on an auto toyota before. I am out of ideas at this point....

DWEINBERG01

Thanks for the thoughts hamish.

DWEINBERG01

So yesterday I drained all the old gas (it had been sitting for about 9 months), then added some oil to the the cylinders through the spark plug holes. After erasing all the codes, I restarted the motor with fresh gas and let it run for about 30 minutes. The engine codes did not come back. I went out about 2 1/2 hrs later, ran it for a half hour and again no CEL (very happy).

Now, I pulled the shifters off of the t-cases to see if the gears in one were turning, but not the other as I went through the gears. I shifted through all of the transmission gears, but the t-case gears never moved. I also shifted into each t-case gear each time I shifted the transmission. The fact that none of the t-case gears moved tells me that my problem is in the transmission. Are there any wiring issues that I have done (for the swap) that could cause the transmission to not want to engage. (Wiring I can fix, auto tranny guts, I'm not even gonna try that one)

Thanks

DWEINBERG01

Even if I had wired it wrong, the trans would still engage into gear when I shifted....right? It just wouldn't know when to shift...right?

Are there any ways that wiring would cause the trans not to work?

Here is what I connected:
1995 3.0 4runner(auto trans) 1997 3.4 auto

IH1(21) Y-R ECM to Cruise ECU (OD1) to E12(7)BR-Y ECM to Cruise ECU(OD1)
IH2(8) B-O A/T indicator Park Neutral to II3(20) B-Y Park Neutral switch
IH2(18) G-O ECU pwr to Combo Meter to E12(10) G-R ECU pwr to Combo Meter
IH2(1) L-W A/T oil temp to E12(4) A/T oil temp
IH1(4) Y-G O/D main switch (O/D2) to E12(6) O/D2 main switch/ shift lock
IH1(16) W-R +B ecu to to EFI main to E12(22) W-L +B to EFI main
IH1(10) B-G ECU Batt to E12(14) B-W ECU Batt
IH1(5) G- W stop lamp to E12(25) G-W stop lamp
IH1(20) G-L ECM (VSS1) to E12(12) G-O ECM (VSS1)
E12(3) L-G (Low)to II3(3) L-G (Low)
E12(2) V-R (2nd) to II3(4) V-R (2nd)
E12(1) R-Y Rev to II3(19) R-Y
There were a couple of wires that I couldn't find a connection for:
IH2(9) R-G ECU to Cruise control ECU
IH1(15) B-Y ECU STA to park/neutral switch
E12(17)R-G ECU transfercase neutral

If someone has time, is there a way to check my work. I can email the wiring schematics for the 3.0 and 3.4 transmissions.

Also, my back up lights aren't working.
I connected:

IH2(7) R-W Back up light to II3(20) B-Y Back up light
IH2(8) B-O Back up light/ seat belt warn light to II3 (19) R-Y Backup lght/ Park neutral switch

I think IH2(8) should actually not be connected to anything and the other three should be spliced together.

DWEINBERG01

The truck will start no matter what gear the transmission/gear shift are in. I know it is only supposed to start in PARK or NEUTRAL. Am I thinking correctly when i say that I don't think that the ECU is recognizing the transmission wiring.

DWEINBERG01

Today I verified that all of the flywheel/ torque converter bolts were installed and torqued correctly. I also unplugged the battery to reset the ECU to see if by doing so, I could get the transmission to react but nothing there. All the linkage is correct as well as the park/neutral switch. Still searching. Haven't got to the solenoids yet.

Heading on vacation for two weeks. Pray for an epiphany.

DWEINBERG01

Okay. Back from vacation (broke my collarbone the first day, so I have a lot of time to research but can't really work on it for another month).

Questions that I thought about on vacation :

1)If the overdrive button on the shifter is not hooked up, will that cause the transmission not to shift?

2) If the kickdown cable is not adjusted right will that cause the transmission to not shift?

3)I installed an aftermarket transmission cooler. If I put the hoses on wrong (flow out/ flow in) will that cause the transmission to not shift? Would air in those lines cause it.

I am not getting any CEL codes to indicate bad solenoids so I'm not real sure where to start diagnosing.

Ride4Fun

If you disconnect all of the wiring to the solenoids, the transmission should be able to be manually shifted thru the gears. I have mine hooked up this way and it works fine. Mine is driven almost daily (manually shifted) and haven't had any problems.
If this does not work, I would think that you have a pump problem. I have heard (and experience this myself many years ago) that if the TC is not fully engaged when installed it will burn up the front pump in the transmission - hopefully this is not you problem, but still a possibility.
Best of luck - and if you figure it out, please let me know how you have your solenoids wired, this is still driving me crazy.

DWEINBERG01

Another thought/question :

Since I removed the auto t-case in favor of the gear driven ones, could the fact that the ecu is not reading the transfer case make it tell the transmission to stay in neutral so it doesn't break something. How do I fool those wires that go to the t-case into thinking they are getting a signal. I did not hook up the 4wd wiring when I was doing the wiring portion because I figured I wouldn't need it since I wasn't using the auto t-case.

I still have the original auto t-case.

DWEINBERG01

After reading the post about the a340h, do I need to splice the wiring for the solenoids. From the schematics, it appears that they are already wired in to the 3.4 ecu and run directly to where the need to go. I don't see anywhere that I would need splice into the 3.0 body harness or the E12 plug.

Also, does the second speed sensor need to be spliced in there cuz the schematic shows it already wired between E10 pin 4 and E10 pin 9?

Does the cable that runs from the drivers side of the transmission up to the intake plenum have anything to do with the transmission shifting?

Does the A340f have two speed sensors? If so does that mean I should have used a t100 Ecu? Would the VSS have anything to do with the transmission not shifting?

DWEINBERG01

Top. Help please.

hamish_18

sorry man, only thing I can answer, is that the cable going to the throttle body is the kick down cable. When you floor it, that causes the tranny to shift up.

DWEINBERG01

Okay. Thanks.