Cadin

Hey Gang,

I've recently come into a 3.4 in a '95 4Runner that was a "clean" swap

I already have a project rig, and this was to be my DD whilst I did some more intensive work on the FJ. Alas, it wasn't to be so.

The under-hood stuff was good for the most part, the motor burns no oil, makes good power. Someone couldn't follow the little picture and use the correct plugs (dielectrode), but the plugs were NGK and weren't blown out too badly. (New correct NGK plugs and wires around.) Dirt and dust totally up the air intake post filter... (Cleaned MAF & new air filter.)

The wiring loom on the drivers side was a mess (Sleeved and wrapped everything), and the power wires went all over the place inside the cab, literally twining past the clutch and brake pedals. Of course the windows didn't work, but I knew that getting into the deal. (I routed a 40A fused power wire to the window switch power; all good)

-The front bearings were loose and all over the place. I think the fellow who did the locking hub swap didn't seat the bearings properly. Bearings looked like new Timkens, with only minimal scoring on one set. I replaced those (Inner/Outer/Seal) and the calipers and pads last weekend. (The pads were totally incorrect, and leaving material behind the rotor, as well as not using all of the rotor design...)

-The ebrake was broken at the handle (I knew this), and found the part on Amazon off all places. Now I have ebrake.

Fellow said he would see around 20 mpg driving conservatively, but I'm seeing more like ~10-11mpg. Of course this sounds like I'm in open loop... but no MIL illuminated...

I check out the ECU and Goodness Almighty... What a hack job! No pins pulled, wires just chopped off. IH1 dismantled and hacked when they would have matched wonderfully! W didn't even go to the MIL, and +Batt (Constant Power) was not hooked up. And the kicker... It's an A/T ECU.

There was no OBDII / OBD2 plug, so I wired up the scanner with the two grounds, one power, and the comm. line. (Does this "feel" the o2 sensors directly as well?) The only codes I am getting are P 0753, and P0758; but I feel like I should be seeing more. (I am using a Harbor Fate "Pro" tool)

-Will these codes cause open-loop fueling? How do I clear the codes? Why am I seeing no other codes? I have soldered up some resistors with the same values as the solenoids per the FSM (13 k Ohm each, Plug E Pins 11,17,27)), and I would like to see if I can suppress the A/T codes. I also plan to feed +12v(Sw) to the drive selector on the ECU.


The tool can also directly monitor the o2 sensor, and I see the sine wave as per the FSM, and it clears the threshold values, but it seems shifted downward (.8V <-> .005V). I put in a new Denso O2 unit last eve, and it reads the same.

-Is this the trim compensating for open-loop?

-How do I clear the ECU?

-How do I know if I am in closed loop?




Thanks for all and any input guys, and I will see if there is an easy way to crack the A/T ECU nut.


(Man, I love the low end power and smoothness of this swap, but this rig had a lot of loose ends... (Less and less, by the day!))

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Thought you said it was a "clean" swap? People have different views on what "clean" is I guess.

Cadin

My thoughts exactly, though I have only myself to blame for not looking over it more thoroughly! Now I'm finding all sorts of surprises!

Fraser

Let me know what you're able to come up with for the "a/t simulator" resistors. I'm going to be running an auto ecu for a while with mine and it would be cool to come up with a way to make it work long term. Good luck getting the bugs worked out.

Cadin

Thankee, I've got it installed, now I just need to figure out how to get the MIL to go out! I'll keep ya posted!

vasinvictor

iTrader: (3)

What's wrong with using an A/T ECU? I thought there were plenty of people doing it with MT?

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

X2 I ran mine for a while with a auto ECU, only negative is the check engine light.

Cadin

I've been searching pretty intensively, and I have yet to find a thread where someone got the A/T ECU working (in closed loop, with no MIL) properly. The codes P0753 & P0758 should only flag if the ECU "sees" either <8 Ohms or >100 kOhms, and each listen to one of the solenoids. The spec value for the solenoids is 13k+/- 2k Ohm, (Edit; 13 Ohm, NOT 13k Ohm!) and I built the resistors at right around 14k Ohm. The FSM even has you check resistance between S1 and S2 on the ecu which means you are using ground for continuity, thus no diode is needed on the solenoid side.



-Has anyone else been able to make these codes disappear, (even for a moment!) and is the computer in closed or open loop with the A/T illuminating the MIL?

Thanks All!


(Edit; 13 Ohm, NOT 13k Ohm! <-- This was my problem!, now the light is out!)

Cadin

Right on, good to hear! What do you see for mpg? (Off to check out your swap...)

JasonYota

iTrader: (1)

Not much to see in my build. Didn't have enough interest to keep it going.
Never checked the MPG. Mine ran in closed loop with the auto ECU, so mpg shouldn't be affected really. If the light bothers you that much pull the light from the dash and just check for codes every now an then, or when it starts running bad.

Cadin

The light doesn't bother me so much as I would like to see when it indicates fault in another system, and it would be nice for smog testing down the road. According to the FSM to ECU's check is basically only for an open or a short, it isn't really all that picky. It shouldn't flag even if the solenoids are pretty far out of tolerance.

(I may just put in a quick switch to select park or drive and check out the mpg's after a few weeks in either mode)



-Oh, did I mention the tranny is pretty howly as well?
(Though it shifts much better with Marlins nylon seat.)

(Well, I've got another R150 & x-fer on the shop floor at Pop's place, but the time is the tricky part...)


There is also a crazy drone from the rear end at around 60 mph; driveshaft?

Fraser

Probably rear end gears or bearing unfortunately...

Cadin

"...Sniff..."

Well, with the 4.88's I know the carrier is different, but is the axle housing itself interchangable between rear ends?

Fraser

The housing is identical as far as I know. What do you have up your sleeve?

Cadin

Oh, nuthin' fancy, though a locker would be wonderous! Probably, I'll just swap the whole unit, carrier and all.


Fraser, wow, you're from Salida; I grew up there for a bit as a kid, and my family's old dairy farm is now a Motel out on Hwy 50 headed toward Poncha Springs, right on the South Arkansas River.

Lots of trips with the family wheeling up to old ghost towns in the mountains!

Fraser

Right on! Salida is a great place to live.

Cadin

Yepper, Heart of the Rockies!

Cadin

Whelp, still lookin' for a 4.88 set; I really want to get just the whole carrier and swap the unit. Seems the simplest way to go. What do you gents think a fair price is?

(As a bonus, the R150f on the shop floor has the VSS unit on it instead of the mechanical speedo.)

Otherwise the engine seems to be in closed loop and getting around 19mpg +/-; just swapped the oil for 5-40 Mobil 1 TDT.

The exhaust rattles like crazy at 3000 rpm. I brought it to the local shop, and they isolated it to the Y. Sometime previously someone evidently tried to fix it; since the Y was drilled trough and a bolt welded in (both sides; top->bottom) to dampen the resonance.



I think my next task may be the tach mod...

cr@ves4wheelin

I think I paid $500 for my pair? It was a long time ago. I think it just varies by location, because some people have gotten theirs for cheaper than that.

Fraser

My 4.88s were around 500 bucks too, I think. I lucked out and got the rear locally and got a good deal on the front shipped.