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Old 04-23-2008, 06:33 PM   #1
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4.3 Vortec

I Know this question gets asked a lot, and I'm new too the site but I'm getting ready or at least starting too get ready too swap a 4.3 liter in too get rid of the tired out 3.0 Liter. So here is my question, how big of a pain in the butt is it too do really? I know advance adapters and downey's make kit's too help with the conversion, I only Have a 2 inch body lift right now with that said, I was thinking of doing the engine swap and then drive it for now then when I can find axles do the SAS, or should I do the SAS then the engine? Any advice will be great, thanks guy's
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Old 04-24-2008, 02:28 AM   #2
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Joker, these engine swaps have a way of getting real expensive. The adapters themselves can be $400-500. Then there is all the little things that add up. So I'd say, if it's running fine now, or maybe needs top end work, keep it and do the SAS.
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Old 04-25-2008, 08:00 PM   #3
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swap

I just got done doing my swap with a '96 4.3 esmfi and 4l60e trans in a '95 truck and here is what it cost to get everything to complete and make road worthy

1 x-fercase adapter with vss sensor
1 6bolt to 4bolt adapter
1 wiring harness from fuel injection speaciltys
1 new v-6 toyota radiator
1 motor mount set
1 fuel line and filter
1 pcm reprogramming
1 new a/c condensor, dryer and hoses and recharge
1 throttle cable
1 output shaft in trans and service at a tranny shop $65.00
1 fan clutch elimanator kit
1 shifter b&m
service parts for engine plugs, wires etc.
all swap parts mostly came from downey
1 exhaust system 2 1/2" single $200.00
COST $2387.00
SHIPPING $101.34
ENGINE AND TRANS FROM A '96 S-10 BLAZER WITH 64000 MILES $750.00
SAS FROM TRAILGEAR FRONT AND REAR $$1500.00
2" BODY LIFT $89.00
drive shaft lengthen and shorting $250.00

BUT I am glad i have done it i have 4.88 gears 36" tires and the mpg so far with 2 tanks have been 19.4 miles per gal. with a little hotdogging here and there
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Old 04-25-2008, 09:38 PM   #4
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Do the suspension then motor.

As for how hard? Its not and its worth it

Do it
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Old 04-30-2008, 09:39 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbright View Post
I just got done doing my swap with a '96 4.3 esmfi and 4l60e trans in a '95 truck and here is what it cost to get everything to complete and make road worthy

1 x-fercase adapter with vss sensor
1 6bolt to 4bolt adapter
1 wiring harness from fuel injection speaciltys
1 new v-6 toyota radiator
1 motor mount set
1 fuel line and filter
1 pcm reprogramming
1 new a/c condensor, dryer and hoses and recharge
1 throttle cable
1 output shaft in trans and service at a tranny shop $65.00
1 fan clutch elimanator kit
1 shifter b&m
service parts for engine plugs, wires etc.
all swap parts mostly came from downey
1 exhaust system 2 1/2" single $200.00
COST $2387.00
SHIPPING $101.34
ENGINE AND TRANS FROM A '96 S-10 BLAZER WITH 64000 MILES $750.00
SAS FROM TRAILGEAR FRONT AND REAR $$1500.00
2" BODY LIFT $89.00
drive shaft lengthen and shorting $250.00

BUT I am glad i have done it i have 4.88 gears 36" tires and the mpg so far with 2 tanks have been 19.4 miles per gal. with a little hotdogging here and there
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Originally Posted by fillsrunner4 View Post
Do the suspension then motor.

As for how hard? Its not and its worth it

Do it
^^^I agree with the two above. $2K-$3.5K seems to be the average for this swap, which is really not that bad. Although, there has been controversy over the quality and overall build of the motor. A lot of these motors that I have delt with seem to have a bad case of piston slap, failing fuel pumps...but then again, my uncle has owned two with no problems what-so-ever and he run those into the ground. I like them, too...I'm a huge LSX fanatic and they're basically a 350 with two cylinders chopped off. It's all about how you take care of/how you treat an engine, IMHO.

As far as the swap itself...it's not hard at all. I would recommend doing the SAS first, then the motor.

What kind of tranny are you planning on using, BTW?
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Old 05-12-2008, 09:39 AM   #6
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go for the power first to carrie the weight of the new axles and bigger tires good luck
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Old 06-23-2008, 09:42 PM   #7
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Dang. Wish mine cost $2 -3.5k! By the time all is said and done, I will have $7.5k into my swap, and only $1900 of that is labor! wtf! I knew I should have just got a F*kin LCEng. motor that is already built.

BTW, im STILL waiting on my #WE$R%T^Y&U 4runner back for . FYI - Do not recommend these guys - I gave them my 4runner Feb. 4th - -- notice the date? its June 23rd!! >:O The whoel reason I brought it to them was to get it done in the two weeks they quoted me. A lawyer is sounding very good right about now....

Last edited by 91RockRunner; 06-25-2008 at 08:58 PM.
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Old 04-05-2009, 09:09 PM   #8
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i am also doing a vortech v6 swap in my toyota... hey dbright-- what did u do for the fuel pump? did u have a fuel cell made to run the gm pump? or modify the stock toyota gas tank?
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Old 04-06-2009, 06:28 AM   #9
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i am also doing a vortech v6 swap in my toyota... hey dbright-- what did u do for the fuel pump? did u have a fuel cell made to run the gm pump? or modify the stock toyota gas tank?
If your Toy is EFI just use the EFI pump and adapt it to the 4.3. That being said I used the GM in-tank unit and adapted it to my tank. I did it for the cost of a replacement, about a $60 difference.

I paid

$500 for a complete donor
$600 for the adapter (inchworm AA adapter)
$100 VSS from JTR (the only CA legal VSS)
$30 3/8 aluminum fuel line (summit)
$30 in -AN and Saginaw adaptors
$120 on a B&M Shifter

I used

Stock GM radiator
GM AC Compressor is now OBA
Stock 100 amp GM alternator
GM Air intake tube and filter (only for smog)
GM Power Steering Pump (modified HP hose to fit Toy Box)
GM Exhaust Complete (slightly modified for mounting)

Fabbed

Motor Mounts
x-member
Intake tube and K&N (Removed for smog)
Reduced diameter front Driveshaft for pan clearance

Modified

GM Wiring Harness
DRAC (for tire size and gear ratio)


After all this I was able to mate with the stock transfer case mount bolt holes (T-case is in exact stock location).


Good luck with your swaps!
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Old 04-06-2009, 07:05 AM   #10
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I would do the SAS first as well, with that out of the way you will be in a better position to mount the engine as low as possible (lower center of gravity). The 2" BL is perfect for this swap and even as crazy as I went with my swap -total rebuild of engine and tranny, new pistons, bored .30 over, megasquirt, marine mpi ..... I still only spent about $4500.
The power is awesome! well worth it
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Old 04-06-2009, 07:17 AM   #11
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Idk man was hating my 3.0 for a while but went with the sas first. Then what do you know 2.5-3 mos later the 3.0 takes a dump. I went wit a different route then you did, for i did not do a 4.3, but instead a 3.4 and i have roughly $1500 into mine and its almost done (that i know of).

All said and done, i am glad i went with the sas first, and if your motor is still in good shape i think you would be too.
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Old 04-06-2009, 02:08 PM   #12
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the efi pump only produces 45 lbs and the gm requires about 65... and do u have anypictures of the tank mods u did ?
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Old 04-06-2009, 03:52 PM   #13
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the efi pump only produces 45 lbs and the gm requires about 65... and do u have anypictures of the tank mods u did ?

Are you sure ? I have taken a guage to my system with the Toy pump and produced around 65 psi. I have also taken a guage to the GM pump and produced 60 PSI and both worked fine. Its a really good pressure guage, and the truck runs great at any RPM.

57 PSI is the Magic number for the 4.3. as per my FSM.
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