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#1 (permalink) | |||||
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Manteca Ca
Posts: 65
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Turn signal, hazards not working question.
Last edited by Shoxg711; 02-25-2008 at 07:19 PM. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Manteca Ca
Posts: 65
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BY THE WAY I DID USE THE SEARCH FEATURE AND READ MANY DIFFERENT POSTS BUT NONE EXACTLY LIKE MINE.
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Sweet Home, OR
Posts: 1,562
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I'd say your flasher unit has given up, just a guess.
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The Daily Driver: 1998 Tacoma | Regular Cab | 4WD | 2.7L | 5-Speed Stick | Mostly Stock The People-Hauler 1988 Grand Wagoneer | SUV | 4WD | AMC 360 | 3-Speed Auto | All Stock The Dump Runner 1982 Pickup | Regular Cab | 2WD | 22R | 5-Speed Stick | Custom Exhaust FER SALE! http://www.yotatech.com/f108/1982-sh.../#post51229916 |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Manteca Ca
Posts: 65
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Thanks for replying.
*****UPDATE***** I checked all the fuses again and I just replaced the one and only flasher box I could find. I now get turn signals to the passanger side but very weak to the drivers side and when they are on the drivers side they draw so much current ( I am assuming thats what is happening) they dim the dash and every thing else and also blow the 10a fuse in the center of the under dash fuse panel. Same thing happens when the hazards go on. the immediatly blow that same 10a fuse ???????????? ??????? ???? ?? ? WHATS GOING ON????? |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Staff
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You have something grounding out somewhere, and I bet its the trailer wiring.
If its not plug and play, yank all that crap out of there. Patch all the factory wiring, then buy a plug and play harness. I have one available if you need it. If it is a factory setup, yank it all out. Then put a new harness and converter box in there (again i have one) You CANNOT just connect the wires together without that converter box in there, you will have live wires grounding straight to the frame. Sounds like that converter box failed, and was allowing current to jump.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Manteca Ca
Posts: 65
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cougar, you are probably right. All I did was unplug from the factory box on the pass side (behind the panel next to the storage box) and plug the tail light pigtail to the wire running up to the factory box. What box do I need in this case? Let me know how much. I figured if I unplugged and replugged that way it would be like the trailer box was never there and it would be back to factory non towing set up.
But would a converter box be why the lights dim when I put the left (Driver) flash on? not the right (pass) it works perfectly..... only the left. Last edited by Shoxg711; 02-25-2008 at 09:21 PM. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Staff
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Well you have me confused. Do you have pics of what you did?
the only way to make it like the box is not there, is to unplug the wiring pig tail from the converter harness, and back into the taillight harness.
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Manteca Ca
Posts: 65
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Yes that is what I did. I guess i can go down stairs and take it apart but that is what I did. So right noe the box is still behind the panel with no wires going into it and no wires coming out of it.
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Manteca Ca
Posts: 65
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I am still wierded out by the drivers side signal. like I said the pass side is blinking strong and bright. the dr side is weak and makes the dash dim and when the car is running it even makes the ALT squeal.!?!
WTF!! |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Staff
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It connects at both sides. did you disconnect both sides? And unbolt the ground wire?
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Manteca Ca
Posts: 65
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I did disconnect it at both sides but I didnt disconnect any ground wire because I thought since I disconnected the wires going into it (power supply) ther would be nothing to ground.
is my thinking off? |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Staff
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no, the grounds left there should be ok since no power is going through them.
But if you disconnected both sides, that takes the trailer harness completely out of the circuit. So, i dont know where that leaves you then. Many possible problems, including the turn signal switch assy itself. Do you have any other after market wiring that could be causing the short? The reason the alt is lugging and everything is dim is because you have a short/grounding somewhere.
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Manteca Ca
Posts: 65
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The only thing left is my alarm system. but it has never given me problems. I did find a flattened wire that was from my alarm, it was a wire that carried a signal for the starter disable.
Yes the trailer system is totally out of the loop. How can I test whether or not its the turn signal lever or not? |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Staff
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That i do not know. it would be outlined in the FSM, but I do not have one for a 97 4Runner.
I would be looking at that aftermarket alarm next, those things can cause all sorts of untold problems.
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#15 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Manteca Ca
Posts: 65
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I only posses basic knowledge of electrical systems but I cant see where my alarm would be causing one of my turn signals to draw more current then the other?
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#16 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Staff
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heck if I know, i think i know about as much as you do about aftermarket electrical.
I know that toyota harnesses really never fail, so perhaps check again for frayed or damaged wires, or grounded wires, loose or otherwise. Short of that, i dont know what else to tell ya without being there to see it.
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#17 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Manteca Ca
Posts: 65
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Thanks cougar. I appreciate your help.
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#18 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Searcy, Arkansas
Posts: 1,191
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Did you ever replace any of the fuses with higher amperage ones? If so you may have over heated a wire somewhere.....just a stab in the dark because I've done that before with an emergency patch to get me home one night (tin foil is all I had) & it caused my wiring to mess up somewhere under the hood, I think it was the main wire to the batt. from the alt. or a ground wire.
My dad tried to explain it to me but he started talking in that technical jargon then my eyes glazed over & all I heard was "Wha-wha-Wha....wha wha wha" *sorry that's my best Charlie Brown
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'95 4Runner 3.0 Automatic bone stock; it's becoming a project slowly but surely, one part at a time "If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude than the animated contest of freedom, go from us in peace. We ask not your counsels or arms. Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you. May your chains sit lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that you were our countrymen!” |
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#19 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Manteca Ca
Posts: 65
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Nah I didnt do that. but thanks
IT WAS A FREAKIN GROUND COMING FROM THE REAR TAIL LIGHT AT THE FACTORY TRAILER BOX!!!! sINCE i FIGURED NO POWER WAS GOING INTO THE BOX I DIDNT NEED TO REMOVE THE GROUND ( i WAS RIGHT IN THINKING THAT)..... hOWEVER i NEVER NOTICED THAT THERE WAS A GROUND COMING FROM THE TAIL LIGHT PIG TAIL!?! In the end all is well except for the fact that when I hit the pass side turn signal it blinks fast when I hit the breaks but starts blinking normal when my foot is off the brakes......... I think its bulb. |
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#20 (permalink) |
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Super Moderator
Staff
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That would indicate you have the wrong bulb in there to me. That fast flashing is a built in feature in most vehicles, to warn the driver of a light out.
Was that ground just not hooked up?
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