hauckster

okay so to start ill put things in perspective if i don't find something to fix this problem I'm selling my runner cause i just cant hack the problems any more 87 4runner 22re auto Sr5 model but no ac or power locks windows and so on i have an auxiliary fuse block and running off that is 2 55watt cheapo driving lights wired to one 40 amp relay, 2 55watt rubber tractor lamps (reverse lights) with a 40 amp relay?(don't know for sure) , 4 led strips under seats(one per seat), 4 led strips in cargo area (both leds run off same blade of fuse block. and a stereo with a 120watt head unit powering the stock front speakers only and a 500watt amp powering 2 10" kicker cvr's okay so back in the winter i noticed that my lights where really dim on start up and when i gave it gas they would brighten up no problem until i let off the gas then they would dim i though no big cause as soon as i drove around a bit they stayed bright all the time. not with driving lights on cause i didn't wire them up right so they didn't work fast forward a few months, now my transmission will not shift into its final gear after 60 km an hour only when its dark out cause i have my driving lights on headlights, it will just keep going in that gear till i stop giving it more gas. when i press the overdrive button it acts like a clutch and my rpms drop to high idle but even if i give it gas its like I'm in neutral. fast forward a month, figure out that if i turned off my crappy 55watt driving lights and my heater and with just my headlights on it will shift okay so my problem is..... not a f*#@ing clue i through it was my alternator going bad, changed that no dice new bat cables (1/0 welding wire) no dice pulled power to fuse block no dice pulled power to stereo and fuse block no dice so what Ive figured out is that with my headlights on stereo off i turn on my my heat/defrost for the front window only and my head lights dim to my knowledge that's all a stock load and the stock alternator should take this at idle but it isn't also if i keep switching on stuff like my headlight, heat, and wipers at idle in neutral my rpm will drop for the normal 700 to about 350-400 and almost die when i switch on my led lights under the seats( low power draw the truck dies) its driving me nutzzzzzzzzzzzz oh yota gods help this poor yota get better

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87 4runner, red, rebuilt 22re, 2" manifold back dynomax exhaust, 31x10.50x15 Pirelli Scorpion Mud tires on 15x9.5 aluminum American racing rims, diff breather mod, double tow hook mod, auxiliary fuse box, shop class rear bush bumper, Alpine head unit, nice red led glow in foot wells front and back, custom cargo lights, rest stock

3 33X12.5 mudders waiting to go on rims for spares

myyota

Did you swap the alternator with a new one ?, if you swapped in a used alternator are you sure its good ?, check all the ground wires under the hood, another up grade you can do is change the wire that comes out of the fuse box by the battery to a heavier wire, that little wire is the only thing charging your battery and its way to small to keep up with heavy charging demands. if all else fails you can upgrade to a 100 amp MR2 alternator.

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86 Toyota 4Runner

Solid Axle Swap, 16'' of lift, 37x12.50-15 GoodYear MTR tires, 5 speed manual trans swap, InchWorm Duel Cases With 5.7 Gears, 63'' Chevy Springs In The Rear, 5'' Trail Gear Springs In Front, Marlin Crawler Third Members, 4.88 Gears With A Detroit In The Rear, High Pinion Front With 4.88 Gears And An ARB, Downey Header, Optima Battery, Trail Gear Sliders, Addicted Offroad Front Bumper, Trail Gear Rear Bumper.

wyoming9

You don`t say where you pull power for your extra power distribution block. It should be right off the battery

The Transmission because of being electronic control can get a little finicky if the voltage drops to low .

You upgraded your grounds to welding cable did you crimp on the lugs I use marine battery terminals to make it easy to add extra wiring .

All in all some where you are not getting the correct voltage. It also sounds like your battery is not picking up the load like it should .

This will be hard to find or deal with if you don`t have a Multi meter . you need to know the voltage at the battery under normal winter load .

@ 2000rpm you should have between 13.5 to 15 volts DC These alternators do drop off at lower rpm that is when your battery should pick up the load .

Now if you are talking temps of 30 below F all electrical things act finicky

Hope this helps