TinMan

Hi all, just picked up a85 4runner SR5, in real good shape, not lifted, chopped or hacked up in any way. All OEM equipment still there, very little rust, had a motor swap at one point but dont know when. The current drive train runs like a dream.
The one big problem that it had was the factory window switches were in real bad shape. The drivers would work occationally, and the pass was completely distroyed.
I looked at junk yard stuff and realized I was going to get switches that were in about the same shape. I ordered some aftermarket universal switches should be in this week.
I know the aftermarket switches will not have the same color coding and things may go to different pins. So I wanted to have all the wiring down in my head.
I cut the old switches out, left the cannon plugs and old switch wires in. I have figured out that to run the drivers window up, ground pluss down, and possitive pluss up. Like wise for drivers window down. At that point I could not get the passenger window to do anything.
Then I figured out that the master switch on the drivers side had to have negative potential to either one of the passenger control wires in the master.
Then I could get the passenger side to work. Passenger window up is, master switch wire to neg. Then poss and window up, with down touching the neg and master connector, like wise for pass window down.
My first question is, can anyone point me to a detailed schematic of the electric window system? Haines manual is not cutting it.
Next would be can someone point me to what all has to be connected on the passenger side to get the window to work from the drivers side master.
Thanks in advance for the help and advice.
Great site, it has been a ton of help with my new 85 and my sons 87 pickup project.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml

TinMan

Ok figured out the window switch wiring. I was way over thinking the circuit. It was just confussing to me that there is not a relay in the circuit. I used 4crawlers idea of by-passing the relay. It is great to use the windows without having to turn on the ignition. I post how the aftermarker switches work out.

TinMan

New window switches arrived from A1electric, and they were a snap to instal, kit came with a complete wiring harness, I used most of it to connect to the origional harness and new switches. Took my time and soldered each wire connection instead of using the crimp ons. The schematic that comes with the switches is exactly how the stock switches are wired, so it is easy to follow.
The switches I ordered are lighted switches, so I cant use 4crawlers relay bypass method, which sucks because I liked using the windows without the ignition on.
The only problem is that one of the switches does not light up. I contacted A1electric today by email. The email I got back said to return the deffective part with a copy of the invoice, they would test it, and if found deffective they would return a new one. I emailed back and said if I do that I will not be able to use the window for the two weeks while the switch is away, and that I felt they should send a replacement switch first and then I will return the deffective one. I have not heard back from them yet. I will post their reply so that no one else runs into this problem.
I ordered the flat/raised housing switches which need 1 1/4 inches of clearance. There is just barely enough room behind the door panels for the switches to sit right. They sell a set called the joker switches which I think would look a hole lot better and only need 1/4 inch of clearance. If you are going to order switches from them, spend the extra $10 and get the jokers, and they are not lighted. I will probably change to the joker switches later. Leason learned.