Running Board Removal, Mud Flap Installation 3rd Gen

[Robinhood150]

Running Board Removal and Mud Flap Install for a 3rd Gen 4Runner
3/3/2003
Tom (Tdiddy on the forums) shows you how he pulled of the running boards and added fronts flaps to provide protection up front.

Tools Needed:
Penetrating oil
3/8” Socket Wrench
13 mm socket
13 mm wrench
10 mm socket
Mud Flaps
Drill
1/4” drill bit
Safety Glasses

More and more people are opting to remove their running boards, for both cosmetic and practical off road reasons. Stock running boards offer no real protection while 4 wheeling, and the 4Runner without running boards will have a more aggressive stance and gives the illusion of a lift.
It's also a good idea to install mud flaps to prevent paint chipping from rocks flying up off the tires.
Here's how I did it.

Safety first! It's a good idea to use safety glasses, because there will likely be dirt and debris that falls down in your face while you're underneath working on these bolts.

There are 3 brackets that secure each running board to the truck: one at each end, and one in the middle:


There are two 13mm bolts to remove on each bracket. The bolts are circled in the pic above. Although the bolts broke loose without a problem for me, it would be a good idea to soak the bolts with penetrating oil and let them sit overnight.

Remove the bolts using the 13mm socket. If the nut on the opposite side is spinning, use the 13mm wrench to hold it while you loosen the bolt with the socket wrench.

You will notice that the front bracket bolts up just a little differently than the middle or rear bracket. On the front bracket, there is a bolt on the bottom, and a stud on the top. The stud does not come off the frame, and the bracket is secured to it with a 13mm nut. Remove the bolt and nut, but don't slide the bracket off the stud just yet.
Next, remove the two hex head screws that secure the front molding to the wheel well:


These come off with a 10mm socket. Once they are removed, slide the running board off the front stud. Repeat for the other side of the truck.

Mud Flap Install

I purchased some Grobloski Long Life Duraflex Mud Flaps for $6.99 at Pep Boys. I just couldn't justify spending more than 10 times that amount for Toyota mud flaps. I certainly am not disappointed in their appearance.


They come with or without the 4x4 logo. I also found that I didn't have to trim these flaps when I installed them. Some people do need to trim a bit to avoid rubbing during a turn. This may be a matter of tire size, so everyone will need to evaluate that for themselves.

The flaps come with hardware, but you can also reuse the 10 mm bolts that were taken out during the running board removal.

Inside the wheel well, you've already removed two 10mm bolts. Loosen the next bolt above, but don't remove it.


Slide the top of the mud flap underneath the washer on that bolt, and then tighten it a bit. This will hold the flap in place for you while you locate spots for the holes for the other two bolts. The idea is to keep the mud flaps parallel to the ground, so pay attention to that when marking and drilling the holes.

Mark spots for the two bolts and then remove the flap. Drill some pilot holes for the bolts. Start the bolts through the flap, and then re-mount it.
If the mud flap doesn't line up well enough for you, remove it and open up the holes a little. There are washers on the 10mm bolts, so if the holes are made bigger for a small adjustment, it really won't matter.
For the final mount, slip the top of the flap underneath the washer on the top bolt and thread in the last two bolts. Tighten everything down and repeat on the other side.

If you choose to do this mod good luck, and if you have any questions (Tdiddy) on the Yotatech Forum.