22re to 22r swapr
11-13-2016, 06:07 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
22re to 22r swap
I just got done doing this swap and thought I'd share a few tips if anyone may need it. The reason I done the swap is I was having intake, engine, and possibly computer problems before anyone asks.
I have a 95 4wd pickup. 22re 5 spd non ac. I bought a one owner 89 2wd 22r 4 spd with 137k on the clock and a notebook from the day he bought it in 89 with every time he done anything to it. From gas, oil, alternator, clutch etc. Frame was shot so it was a good candidate.
I used the the crank pulley from old engine, parts truck was non ps, and had an air pump, smog pump whatever it is. I removed it, cut the tube about 2" up where it goes to exhaust manifold and welded it shut. The parts truck had a bunch of vacuum switches on the fender well and vacuum lines going to them. I don't have to pass smog, so I didn't use them. None are required to run. The beauty of the carb is as long as you plug the vacuum ports, she will run.
The speedometer and fuel gauge will still work. Go to the parts store and get a 3 pod gauge set, or 2 if you don't want voltage. I didn't have an oil pressure gauge before, but decided I better use one since I don't have a CEL anymore. I've not hooked these up yet but they are a standard mechanical temp oil and voltage gauges.
For fuel, if your truck is like mine the lines are rusty. Drop the tank. Remove the fuel pump assembly. Take the sock, pump and wiring off of it. I'm using the stock mechanical pump on the 22r so I didn't need it. After you remove the assembly, if your lines are not rusty, get about 8' of 5/16" fuel line. Hook it to the hard line into that originally was for return. This is your new suction. Buy an inline filter, run it to mechanical pump on engine. Use original lines for your new return and vent. If they are rusty like mine, I cut the lines off. Drilled 3 new holes, went to lowes and bought 6 5/16" brass barbs, and 3 unions. Stick the barb in the assembly, run your fuel line down the assembly for suction, tie it to it so it won't float. Same for return, the vent will be fine without a piece of hose on it in the tank. I used original lines for vent and return. Vent goes to a charcoal canister. Ill post pics of this later. Not the best or correct way, but it worked great for me.
Factory throttle cable from my truck worked fine, just mounted it on one of the bolts on too of valve cover, where the breather bolts to.
And that that is pretty much it. Fairly simple swap. Any more tips or tricks or othe ways people done it I'd be glad to hear. I was nervous about the swap at first there's not a lot of info in one thread out there about it. Now swap away!
I have a 95 4wd pickup. 22re 5 spd non ac. I bought a one owner 89 2wd 22r 4 spd with 137k on the clock and a notebook from the day he bought it in 89 with every time he done anything to it. From gas, oil, alternator, clutch etc. Frame was shot so it was a good candidate.
In a nut shell, the swap is really simple. The only wiring you will reuse, besides the chassis harness, is wires to transmission, transfer case starter, alternator. May have to do some splicing on the wiring for starter or alternator if the plugs are different. I used my original starter and alternator. Now, wiring for starter and coil. Get a test light, pull off the panel under the steering wheel. Get the key and probe around until you find a wire that is hot in on, not in accessory. I was lucky and hit it the first time. Was on the far left, blue with red stripe. Splice into it, run that wire to the coil, then one to ground. If you swap them, you won't have fire. So you got a 50/50 shot. From the same hot wire you grabbed under dash, or the end at the coil, run it to a push button. Run the other side to the coil of a relay that you buy for lighting at the parts store. Pick up a ground for the other side. Get a 12 or 10 guage wire, run to battery, then to the normally open contact in relay. Run it to the starter plug. There is a plug on the carb for electric choke and the solenoid. 4 wires and one ground. Wire the 3 hits together and wire into the same hot wire you grabbed from the ignition. Of course ground to ground. Wiring is done
I used the flywheel and clutch that was on the parts truck. I' read somewhere the clutch isn't as stout since it's a 2wd, but it and the flywheel was new and Toyota brand, so I went with it. My old engine was threaded at the bell housing to bolt the trans to it. The parts truck, the trans was threaded. So I had to through bolt it.I used the the crank pulley from old engine, parts truck was non ps, and had an air pump, smog pump whatever it is. I removed it, cut the tube about 2" up where it goes to exhaust manifold and welded it shut. The parts truck had a bunch of vacuum switches on the fender well and vacuum lines going to them. I don't have to pass smog, so I didn't use them. None are required to run. The beauty of the carb is as long as you plug the vacuum ports, she will run.
The speedometer and fuel gauge will still work. Go to the parts store and get a 3 pod gauge set, or 2 if you don't want voltage. I didn't have an oil pressure gauge before, but decided I better use one since I don't have a CEL anymore. I've not hooked these up yet but they are a standard mechanical temp oil and voltage gauges.
For fuel, if your truck is like mine the lines are rusty. Drop the tank. Remove the fuel pump assembly. Take the sock, pump and wiring off of it. I'm using the stock mechanical pump on the 22r so I didn't need it. After you remove the assembly, if your lines are not rusty, get about 8' of 5/16" fuel line. Hook it to the hard line into that originally was for return. This is your new suction. Buy an inline filter, run it to mechanical pump on engine. Use original lines for your new return and vent. If they are rusty like mine, I cut the lines off. Drilled 3 new holes, went to lowes and bought 6 5/16" brass barbs, and 3 unions. Stick the barb in the assembly, run your fuel line down the assembly for suction, tie it to it so it won't float. Same for return, the vent will be fine without a piece of hose on it in the tank. I used original lines for vent and return. Vent goes to a charcoal canister. Ill post pics of this later. Not the best or correct way, but it worked great for me.
Factory throttle cable from my truck worked fine, just mounted it on one of the bolts on too of valve cover, where the breather bolts to.
And that that is pretty much it. Fairly simple swap. Any more tips or tricks or othe ways people done it I'd be glad to hear. I was nervous about the swap at first there's not a lot of info in one thread out there about it. Now swap away!
Last edited by yoder519; 11-14-2016 at 04:00 PM.
