trees4

It's been about 20 years since I've worked on cars at all, but I figured I could handle changing the spark plugs and wires on my 1998 T-100 3.4L V-6.
I went to a parts store who told me the "Check Engine" light that was blinking was because of 8 different codes that basically meant I needed a tune-up.

I got the generic plugs, and a kit of 3 NKG wires, along with one coil in case it was bad.

After I replaced everything, I tried starting the truck, and it ran for about 2 seconds. No matter how I mash the pedal, it will not stay running, and I have a full tank of gas.

My only thoughts are that I somehow rearranged the spark plug wires, although I was being very careful not to. I've tried looking on the web for a diagram to make sure, but I can't find anything.
Or maybe I was supposed to adjust the spark plug gaps? Don't these things come already adjusted these days?
Also, I did put that weird electrical grease on the tips of the plugs in the hopes of helping the connection. Was that a bad idea?

Next time I'll just take it to the mechanic, but I need some help to get me past this screw-up.

trees4

I could find no reason to replace any of the 3 coils, so I didn't mess with it.
I did find one of the old wires was broken as I removed it from the spark plug, which could have caused the whole problem to begin with.

95blackToy

I don't know if e grease was bad.but it would probably burn off if it would run. There should be numbers on the distributed cap which indicate the cylinder number it goes to.

95blackToy

I never fool with my gaps when I put new ones

trees4

There is no distributor.
There are 3 coils on the left side that apparently have slave wires that fire plugs on the right side.

95blackToy

Oh yeah forgot it wasn't a 3.0. I'd replace all your coils.could be that they are breaking down.but that should just make it miss fire. I'd clean off grease just to see if it helps.never heard of putting stuff on it for conductivity. And other than that,check your plug wire arrangement

95blackToy

Check this out for wires. Tell us how it goes

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/h...they-go-83148/

trees4

Unfortunately, I haven't got a plug wire arrangement chart.
Got one you could scan for me?

pruney81

NGK's do not come pre-gapped, at least I know they don't for my 22RE.

95blackToy

I never gapped any plugs on my 3.0just popped them in. Has always worked out

PismoJoe

What brand of plugs did you use? I always try to stay OE fro plugs and wires, they do really well.

Here is a diagram
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/2000/Repa...nition/ovi.pdf

Here is a list for all Denso spark plug gaps and applications, NGK is the same http://www.globaldenso.com/cgi-bin/g...name=4w-63.txt

seanmearse

Are we sure its the plugs/wires/coils? don't go throwing pricey parts at it, test first. Is fuel pressure verified? Have you checked for spark? If theres a check engine light, pull the codes and see what it tells YOU, not the parts guy. He was wrong in telling you what it needs, as a parts guy, I have learned my lesson when the advice given is wrong. Kragen and Autozone both have policies regarding this, give Ideas and possible solutions, do not say "this is what needs to be done". On another ote, test and verify that fuel/spark is present. A fuel pressure tester is a great investment. I'm thinking fuel, but I could be wrong. Good luck with it dude!

trees4

Joe, thanks for the diagram, I'll check it out in the morning.
I think the plugs were Denso...I'm not a gearhead, so I don't know much about this stuff.
I did notice that the plugs I pulled out had two of the arms that reach up from the threads toward the electrode, but the new ones had only one arm. Does this make any difference???

trees4

SeanMearse,
I abbreviated the story a bit: After I got the codes I called my Mechanic, he verified the codes were for plugs/wires/coil (maybe coil).
Why in the world would something be wrong with the fuel pressure if it ran before I took it apart?

The biggest thing here is that I was trying to save time/money by doing it myself, so I'm not interested in getting more tools to try more of this in the future. I wouldn't know where to find a "fuel pressure tester" or what hole to stick it in anyway.
Again, next time (or maybe even tomorrow if it's not something simple) it will go to my trusty mechanic.

rocket

iTrader: (1)

Remove the plugs and clean off any greasy residue. Reinstall. Verify order of wires, ensure connection of each, and fire it up. If no-go then replace your ignition coil.
How many miles does the truck have?

JDS1992

I bought NGK GPower Plugs/ and NGK Wires and I never gapped the plugs and they run great and on the wires they have cylinder numbers on them so i knew which ones to put them in on my 3.0L

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

the 3.4 requires dual ground spark plugs. "two arm thingys" post up what codes you had pulled.

trees4

The codes were P0800, P0802, P0803, P0804, P0805, P0806. 2 of the codes were repeated, giving me 8 total.
Right now, it will not stay running long enough to flash, but the Check Engine light remains lit.
Since I can't get to the parts store, I don't know if the codes have changed.
Do I need to reset them somehow in order to get it running?

trees4

Rocket,
I have 189,000 miles on it.
Which coil do you recommend I replace, since there are 3 of them?

seanmearse

Well, it was just a thought. In my experience, I have seen pumps go out on a full tank 90% of the time. That and coupled with the not running for more than a few seconds made me think low fuel pressure. Dont erase the codes till its running again, they should shut off when the engine is running correctly again after a few miles.