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Old 01-19-2011, 01:37 PM
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Tire and rim options

I have been looking for some bigger meats and wheels... i know i have a 2wd but i am planning on doing more work to it to an eventual sas4wd conversion but i want to build up my offroading skills first. but for now i'm looking at this combo
https://www.treadwright.com/p-36-245...dog-m-t-e.aspx
https://www.treadwright.com/p-17-215...ler-m-t-d.aspx
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRR-3997712/
i want to go the 16's just because i can get more tire sizes that will work as far as i can tell. but i am very open to 15s. so far the front end doesn't have anything but a slight tbar crank but the back has an aal and extended rear shackles... right now its not got too much rake just because i have so much crap in the back due to winter. i'm not worried about the back being able to handle this tire size but the fronts. i do want to get 4wd fenders and the bj spacer as well. any input or suggestions on what will most likely fit without really anycutting or banging.

Last edited by 86yota2wd; 01-19-2011 at 01:39 PM.
Old 01-19-2011, 01:41 PM
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Not another one of these

This comes up like once a month. What will happen is someone will pitch in and say just get a 4wd (which is a better choice btw), then an arguement will start, and the thread will get shut down.
Old 01-19-2011, 01:48 PM
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I wouldn't buy tires new unless you absolutely plan on keeping them the full duration.
I mean, you'd be spending the money twice on tires.
Old 01-19-2011, 02:03 PM
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i know a 4wd is better but i want to build up my truck to a 4wd solid axle crawler and i would plan on keeping them as to allow enough funds to accumulate to get the conversion done and do it right the first time. i want to be able to learn and grow with my truck instead of just hopping in a fully built 4wd and getting into trouble
Old 01-19-2011, 02:18 PM
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Buying a 4wd doesnt mean buying a fully built rig. It means buying a stock 4x4 so you can actually wheel it.

And think about it, you want to keep them to allow funds. Yet you MIGHT be able to stuff some 31s on there. Then once you SAS it you will be driving around with miniature tires on a lifted truck.

If you want to do it, its your truck and no one is stopping you. But that choice is sure lacking some logic.

Now an option is to find a USED set of cheap ass tires, then you wont be wasting much money on a new set, that you will regret buying once you build your truck to how you want it to be.

But i still say sell the 2wd or keep it as a DD, and use the money from the truck, and that you were going to spend on tires, on buying a 4x4 with a good set of tires already on it.
Old 01-19-2011, 03:06 PM
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yes i do know that everyone is saying that go buy a 4wd doesn't mean a fully built rig its a stock 4wd. but i am saying i would like to keep it 2wd for now and to work on getting the sas and the 4wd conversion it is going to be more like years till i get around to it because i don't have a place to do it and its my dd. so i am basically just asking what i could get in the meantime while i get my parts together and all the necessities for the sas. like axles and trans/transfer case currently my 2wd does what i need i am just trying to see if this is an option till i can get the sas. but maybe ill just keep the tires and setup ive got now and hope it lasts till i have enough cash
Old 01-19-2011, 03:29 PM
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Id recommend getting stock sized all season tires..
Then start going from there..
Trans/xfer case..
Rear and front axle..
Springs..
Etc.
Old 01-19-2011, 07:39 PM
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that sounds pretty decent ive got a set right now thats pretty decent they are just a generic all terrain but they dig pretty good they'd dig better if i had enough power to actually turn them better. off topic question now i've been looking at bushwacker fender flares and was wondering if they'd work on my truck... as far as i understand they would work on the back but not the front due to the mounting of the flare and it having to attatch on the flare of the 4wd fender? or would i be able to attach it to my stock 2wd
Old 01-19-2011, 08:05 PM
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You really don't need flares on a stock 2wd, lol.
But to answer your question, no they won't. The 4wds actually have a 3" flare (guestimate) over the 2wd fenders
Old 01-19-2011, 08:47 PM
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make a "pre runner"

Last edited by dropzone; 01-19-2011 at 10:14 PM.
Old 01-23-2011, 09:00 AM
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Talking

Good idea on wanting to grow with your creation...its the best way gain a relationship with ur ride. It gives u that confidence to say hell ya i can take that mud hole right here right now and actually having the faith to do so cuz u know ur ride was built to do it...
Anyway like some others here said, grab u some cheapies bro, save ur money, and no need to get into bigger bigger bigger yet seeing as u said u dont have the power to turn them lol Stick with the ride u got and build on it if u dont have time or money restraints. This yota forum has lots of great knowledge in these threads about any question u can think of and if its not there, someone will know what ur lookin for. Stick with ur post and let us know what/how ur doing. *Bump* for my boy
Old 01-24-2011, 12:05 PM
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so my new thinking on this project is to swap in my 350 from my chevy and the sm465 transmission with an np205 i think this setup although itll probably be a pretty good amount of fabrication but i'm looking at that anyway so might as well make it something with some muscle. plus i think its actually going to be the cheapest way for now. being that all i'd need is a transfer case and they are really easy to get for cheap. i have read a couple threads about this combo but it seems like no one is really finishing their projects but ill be determined once i source the parts. t think the biggest decision is what size of axles to run 1ton or keep it toyota and just upgrade everything in the axles. it wont be wheeled super hard or bombed through the rocks i just would want a good setup.
Old 01-24-2011, 12:31 PM
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Good lord, you think a 350 swap would be the cheapest option?????
Old 01-24-2011, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Bojangles
Good lord, you think a 350 swap would be the cheapest option?????
My thoughts exactly.
Old 01-24-2011, 03:17 PM
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well not the cheapest.... but while i have it all torn apart and needing to replace the transmission and locate a transfer case i can utilize the 350 and the sm465 in my chevy right now and get a transfer case for it. they are very easy to get and are bullet proof from what i've heard. so instead of having to source toyota stuff ill use my chevy stuff and gain a ton more torque and a very durable drivetrain
Old 01-24-2011, 03:24 PM
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A toyota trans and t-case. About 300-400 bucks.

350 swap. About 2000-3000 bucks.

Do more research and you might change your mind. If you have the money, room, and time to do it then go for it. But its much more involved once you REALLY start thinking things through. And the price of stuff adds up quick.

If you DO do it, im up for watching an awesome build. But tons of people get in way over their heads and sell the project halfway through. I try to stop that from happening whenever possible.
Old 01-24-2011, 03:32 PM
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so i'm just slightly confused what costs do i need to factor in? i need motor mounts and to fab up a custom cross member which i need to do anyway and get the driveshafts custom made. basically id be a good excuse to build a bigblock for the chevy
Old 01-24-2011, 03:45 PM
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Here is a list of parts for my 4.3 swap using a toyota r150f trans. Some things dont apply, but you will need other things such as the driveshafts and crossmebers that you stated. And dont forget some strong axles.

-Engine-free, but about 500 if i was to buy it.
-Trans-350
-bellhousing adapter-400
-lift kit for oil pan clearance-250
-Extended brake lines-75
-motor mounts-130
-Block hugger headers-250
-High pressure fuel pump-100
-Battery-100
-Flywheel-110
-pressure plate-225
-clutch disk-125
-Electric fan-50
-body lift-100
-Release bearing-40
-Muffler-25
-exhaust tubing- 200
-slave cylinder-25
-Gear reduction starter-75
-And 200 for random stuff like fuel lines, hardware, etc.

Adds up to about 3000.

Like i said, some things dont apply, but i think they make up for other charges such as a transfercase, big radiator, steel to make crossmembers, parts that need replacing on the motor, drive shaft mods.

Not trying to talk you out of it. But its a big project. Think it through before starting it

Last edited by 2DoorRunner; 01-24-2011 at 03:46 PM.
Old 01-24-2011, 04:10 PM
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wow it does start to add up fast good thing im not counting on even really starting on this project for a couple years. but i have a question i have the complete engine and drivetrain. its fully running and drive able so that should drop it down a bit. so maybe the i would be able to just swap out the whole setup and just slide it over.... and of course the body lift. but is this absolutely necessary or can you made things fit without it?
Old 01-24-2011, 04:17 PM
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You dont NEED a body lift. But the modifications can be pretty extream to make it fit. Just sheet metal cutting and welding though.
Check out some other builds and get an idea of what is needed.

Yes having a running drivetrain will help lower the cost quite a bit. And knowing how to fabricate can save tons. You can make motor mounts, crossmembers, even your own headers. Which will lower the cost down a hell of alot more.


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