taikowaza

I'm looking for a bit more lift on the front for a more aggressive stance.
I have sdori bj spacers in the front and stock torsion bars are cranked.
rear is downey HD coils. I am thinking of putting sdori coil spacers in the rear, but will need to raise the front a bit more to compensate. apparently stock torsion bars are cranked pretty far, when I got aligned they advised me not to crank them anymore.
I was thinking of getting OME torsion bars. My question is, although I know that the OME are thicker, are they longer too? ie, will the OME torsions allow me to raise the front a bit more than stock?

I am not running an ARB or TJM bumper, no winch, just a brush guard and lights. would the OME be overkill? My goal is to raise the front a bit more. will I need a LONGER torsion than stock?

thanks a lot!

ewong

not a longer torsion bar - a thicker torsion bar...

while spring rate is related to both lenght and diameter - relocating the end mounting point is NOT an easy task

MudHippy

How much more lift is possible at this point depends on whether or not you've installed low-profile bumpstops. Larger/longer torsion bars can't physically lift any higher than stock, or smaller for that matter. They will hold their lift longer w/o fading.

ewong

Oh - I didnt read the Q carefully.

What MudHippy said....

The IFS (using stock A arms spindles and brackets) is limited in the amount of lift you can crank in.

Cranking in lift trades off droop capability for increased compression range and a "bone jarring" ride.

To get the "stance" higher you need to get a "lift kit"
-- spindle spaces
-- drop brackets

These lifts are great for looks - not so good for rock crawling

A better rock crawling lift is SAS (Solid Axle Swap)
A better PreRunnign lift is LT (Long Travel)

taikowaza

thanks ewong and mudhippy-
I'm curious about 2 things from your post- end mounting points and low profile bumpstops. I don't need that much more lift, 3 inches in the front would be perfect to match the 2inches that I would add with the coil spacers.

are any of the aftermarket torsion bars longer as well? I heard that SAW are pretty stiff and that the Downey's are even stiffer...

I found this thread and obviously need to do some more reading! but still appreciate your comments- thanks again
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...r+torsion+bars

MudHippy

This page explains all you need to know about torsion bars, basically.

http://www.toyotaoffroad.com/Article...rsion_bars.htm

SAW has them 25mm and 27mm. Downey bars are 26mm. The OME are 23.8mm, right? They are all the same length as stock. Stock are 22.8mm wide, for reference.

If you could use Land Cruiser torsion bars(big IF,cause I've no clue if they have correct spline count), they are longer and would require moving the frame mount. SAW has them.

http://www.swayaway.com/VehicleMake_4.php

ewong

IMHO - if you have to ask
"how do I install longer torsion bars"
Then youy cant afford it.

If you want to do it - then IMHO go Total Chaos LT.
Cheaper (than custom fab and design work)
Proven
Easier to modify spring rates.

You MIGHT be able to get 3" of lift from a stock IFS but then there's no droop left in the suspension.

Basically the tires will me coming off the ground on any bump in the road....
Think about that - imagine driving down the street and randomly the steerting has no effect.....
I see instant car crash....

The reason for low profile bump stops is to stop the annoying continus rattle you will hear if the A arms are topped out ont he snubbers all the time.

Oh yeah - if you wheel the truck with the suspension cranked like that (i.e. USE the 4WD) - be preapared to blow up CVs.....

Basically - you can do it but for looks only. Might as well remove the front axle and save some weight too...