todddesignr

I've searched the threads and couldn't find anything specific with regard to separating the oil pan from the block. The previous owner of my 94 4Runner obviously used an entire tube of Form In Place Gasket that inevitably shortened the life of the oil pump I'm having to replace. Anyway, I've tried the Pan Separating SST, no dice as I didn't have enough room to get a good swing with a hammer. I've tried a putty knife with rounded edges as suggested in another forum, no help. I saw that someone in this forum had some success with a screwdriver, this doesn't sound like the best option given that one could either bend the pan or gouge the block, any suggestions?

iamsuperbleeder

moving to Newbie Tech Section


A flat-blade screw driver is probably going to be your best tool for the job. What little marks you make on the bottom of the block wont matter; a new gasket and some RTV will still seal up fine against it. If you do warp the pan a little (which it honestly probably will not), it's easy to place it against a piece of wood and hammer it back into shape


Welcome to the forums!

tried4x2signN

Also, try a well made putty knife, chisel or painters tool...

That thing will come in handy on down the line too... So I'd call it an investment.


I have a "5 in 1" painters tools that is nice and strong and is even sharpenable that pulls duty as a scraper and pry bar.


EDIT: It's the "painters tool" as seen here

http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/skills/4321411

PismoJoe

I have had very good luck with these tools and a regular razor blade to remove oil pans. The hook one works really well, and takes the outer layer of RTV off without harming the block or pan. Then you can get in there with a razor blade or a putty knife

todddesignr

Thanks for the suggestions, I'll give these ideas a go after work today.

mt_goat

I've always used a putty knife. It takes a while to work it all the way around, just go in a little at a time and about the 2nd or 3rd time around you can work it loose with a screw driver. The pan edge has a higher lip in the center so the first time around I just go into that lip. The block and pan are both steel so you don't have to worry too much about scratches. The tranny is a different story since its aluminum but FIPG does seal imperfections pretty well.