Head gasket
06-10-2012, 09:41 AM
#21
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Just got done going thru your thread. The Haynes manual says to torque to 58 foot pounds, it is later been updated to 62 or 64, dont recall which it is. I left my manual at my dads and dont have it in front of me as I updated my manual. Chef will know as he is the one that told me about it.
As far as getting your sprocket back on I use the end of a ratchet for a little leverage and barely turn the crankshaft pulley (counter clockwise I think) to help with getting some pressure off of it. That was another trick Chef showed me.
Make sure your dots and bright links are in the correct positon. (6 an 12 oclock position) not sure which is which. I have done several timing chains but each time I still follow the manual so I am a little rusty on the specifics.
As far as getting your sprocket back on I use the end of a ratchet for a little leverage and barely turn the crankshaft pulley (counter clockwise I think) to help with getting some pressure off of it. That was another trick Chef showed me.
Make sure your dots and bright links are in the correct positon. (6 an 12 oclock position) not sure which is which. I have done several timing chains but each time I still follow the manual so I am a little rusty on the specifics.
06-10-2012, 12:26 PM
#22
That pic of the block... are you sure that's not a lil chocolate milk appearing? If not, sorry, just making sure. If ANY portion of that looks compromised, I would say between 3 and 4 and/OR the area between the #4 Water Jackets and Piston. In the beginning, this will just appear to be eating up a lil coolant, with very lil steaming. Eventually, obviously, it caves and SLURP, POOF, clouds of water vapor and, well, you're done.
Far as getting the chain on, just what Terry said^^^. When you noticed it 'popping off', that's because the chain IS under tension.. AND, because, when you remove it, you should try to use a long screwdriver(about 2 feet) and push back on the tensioner(between the chain and tensioner, NOT against the chain to push back the tensioner, clearly, lol). It's helpful, VERY MUCH, to have someone handy to push back on that. Also, you need to, as said, turn on the crank bolt A LIL bit(I believe it's counter clockwise, to allow the slack to manifest on the side you need it/most likely the pass. side/ and then allowing you to get the sprocket up and over.) I used another LARGE pry bar that's thin in it's shaft(Harbor Freight for 4$) with a flat head to give me some leverage over the Rocker Tower and pry it upward and onto the CAM. THE SECOND that thing get's on there, put pressure against it while you grab the cam bolt that's VERY HANDY and slap it back on. "DON'T FORGET that HIDDEN BOLT UNDER THE CAM-DIZZY DRIVE GEAR!"... BEFORE you put that cam bolt back in on the end. DO NOT forget to torque that to specs... But realize, it WILL TURN.... SO AGAIN, leave a pry bar in the hole of the sprocket to create opposite resistance to the tightening of the CAM(YOU DO NOT WANT THE CAM TURNING when you tighten that, it's very important, or your timing will be WONKY, most likely). Cam timing is very important. Since you've possibly moved it already(most do on accident), I would check the valve lash while in there... But that's up to you.
Far as the bright links.... it's really irrelevant since you've not took the cover off(you can't verify the crank bright link is at 6'o'clock without it off, anyway, without the timing cover off).... AND, after first start, however many miles ago, it's VERY rarely that those links line up again. THEY DO, it's part of the timing, but it's not every other turn of the crank/cam/chain. As LONG as you've not allowed the chain to fall deep enough into the top of the head and possibly jump a tooth off the crank... You should be ok(You zip tied it well, sir!
) . PLUS, the tensioner prevents that (collapsing past the crank) pretty well. And actually, if you could see how tight the chain fits inside the oil pump housing/over the crank sprocket... It's pretty difficult for it to slop back and jump a tooth. STILL, WE TRY TO KEEP EVERYTHING TIGHT as possible and loosen it up, strategically, to allow things like "Slipping the cam sprocket back on", etc.
Personally, .... I would NOT re-use a HG...... Look at it this way, just by the laws of physics and even the laws of average. When you clean the deck up to remove coolant/oil before putting the Head and HG back on... You're removing graphite from the deck... Even in thousandths that makes a difference(Think of how much clearance is between a valve and it's guide walls?) ..... Secondly, it's SO HARD to get the residue all off by a simple wiping.
I know it's been said, many times, "Don't use Fel-Pro gaskets on 'this or that' " .... I have nearly 8K on my Permatorque Fel-Pro from Auto Zone, that I picked up in 10 minutes for 24$! Then, a large 99C bottle of rubbing alcohol, some scotch brite nylon scouring pads and warm soap and water solution in a bowl(start with that and finish with the alcohol).... You've just increased your chances for a good seal by 50%!
I changed a cam out without removing the head, last year.... IT WAS NOT easy, and it held... But the chances it would hold? 50%, I would say. I just did NOT have time to pull it..... Here, you've already pulled it.. Do it right, cuz it's not about 'scaring you'... it's about offering what we've encountered/learned over painstaking trial and error! lol. Trust me, I've done MANY things I wish I could therein take back the HOURS I'd lost because of said "thing" I'd done! lol.
If you want the part # for the FelPro HG.... let me know.(It's somewhere in my build thread.... if you wanna find it now. I don't have time just yet, BUT>>>) I don't think they have but one at AutoZone for the 22RE. I've used them before and put 157K miles on one of them(the Permatorque Felpro). oh< BTW? I had just rebuilt THIS VERY MOTOR in here now... Slapped in a Nippon OEM Gasket after METICULOUS cleaning, etc. .... Blew the HG instantly... Torqued to 63#, clean as a whistle, etc., etc... BAFFLING. What's in there now, after tearing it down 2 HOURS after putting it together and starting it? Felpro Permatorque! (I know, sorry guys.... But they've worked for me. I think 90% of problems with them is INSTALLER ERROR! lol....Hehehehe.. Maybe I just got lucky? I don't think so... I'm very anal about this stuff for reason, OP... Because I'VE LOST SO MUCH PRECIOUS TIME because of the guy I paid to do it that did a half arsed job, ...ya know?
Far as getting the chain on, just what Terry said^^^. When you noticed it 'popping off', that's because the chain IS under tension.. AND, because, when you remove it, you should try to use a long screwdriver(about 2 feet) and push back on the tensioner(between the chain and tensioner, NOT against the chain to push back the tensioner, clearly, lol). It's helpful, VERY MUCH, to have someone handy to push back on that. Also, you need to, as said, turn on the crank bolt A LIL bit(I believe it's counter clockwise, to allow the slack to manifest on the side you need it/most likely the pass. side/ and then allowing you to get the sprocket up and over.) I used another LARGE pry bar that's thin in it's shaft(Harbor Freight for 4$) with a flat head to give me some leverage over the Rocker Tower and pry it upward and onto the CAM. THE SECOND that thing get's on there, put pressure against it while you grab the cam bolt that's VERY HANDY and slap it back on. "DON'T FORGET that HIDDEN BOLT UNDER THE CAM-DIZZY DRIVE GEAR!"... BEFORE you put that cam bolt back in on the end. DO NOT forget to torque that to specs... But realize, it WILL TURN.... SO AGAIN, leave a pry bar in the hole of the sprocket to create opposite resistance to the tightening of the CAM(YOU DO NOT WANT THE CAM TURNING when you tighten that, it's very important, or your timing will be WONKY, most likely). Cam timing is very important. Since you've possibly moved it already(most do on accident), I would check the valve lash while in there... But that's up to you.
Far as the bright links.... it's really irrelevant since you've not took the cover off(you can't verify the crank bright link is at 6'o'clock without it off, anyway, without the timing cover off).... AND, after first start, however many miles ago, it's VERY rarely that those links line up again. THEY DO, it's part of the timing, but it's not every other turn of the crank/cam/chain. As LONG as you've not allowed the chain to fall deep enough into the top of the head and possibly jump a tooth off the crank... You should be ok(You zip tied it well, sir!
) . PLUS, the tensioner prevents that (collapsing past the crank) pretty well. And actually, if you could see how tight the chain fits inside the oil pump housing/over the crank sprocket... It's pretty difficult for it to slop back and jump a tooth. STILL, WE TRY TO KEEP EVERYTHING TIGHT as possible and loosen it up, strategically, to allow things like "Slipping the cam sprocket back on", etc. Personally, .... I would NOT re-use a HG...... Look at it this way, just by the laws of physics and even the laws of average. When you clean the deck up to remove coolant/oil before putting the Head and HG back on... You're removing graphite from the deck... Even in thousandths that makes a difference(Think of how much clearance is between a valve and it's guide walls?) ..... Secondly, it's SO HARD to get the residue all off by a simple wiping.
I know it's been said, many times, "Don't use Fel-Pro gaskets on 'this or that' " .... I have nearly 8K on my Permatorque Fel-Pro from Auto Zone, that I picked up in 10 minutes for 24$! Then, a large 99C bottle of rubbing alcohol, some scotch brite nylon scouring pads and warm soap and water solution in a bowl(start with that and finish with the alcohol).... You've just increased your chances for a good seal by 50%!
I changed a cam out without removing the head, last year.... IT WAS NOT easy, and it held... But the chances it would hold? 50%, I would say. I just did NOT have time to pull it..... Here, you've already pulled it.. Do it right, cuz it's not about 'scaring you'... it's about offering what we've encountered/learned over painstaking trial and error! lol. Trust me, I've done MANY things I wish I could therein take back the HOURS I'd lost because of said "thing" I'd done! lol.
If you want the part # for the FelPro HG.... let me know.(It's somewhere in my build thread.... if you wanna find it now. I don't have time just yet, BUT>>>) I don't think they have but one at AutoZone for the 22RE. I've used them before and put 157K miles on one of them(the Permatorque Felpro). oh< BTW? I had just rebuilt THIS VERY MOTOR in here now... Slapped in a Nippon OEM Gasket after METICULOUS cleaning, etc. .... Blew the HG instantly... Torqued to 63#, clean as a whistle, etc., etc... BAFFLING. What's in there now, after tearing it down 2 HOURS after putting it together and starting it? Felpro Permatorque! (I know, sorry guys.... But they've worked for me. I think 90% of problems with them is INSTALLER ERROR! lol....Hehehehe.. Maybe I just got lucky? I don't think so... I'm very anal about this stuff for reason, OP... Because I'VE LOST SO MUCH PRECIOUS TIME because of the guy I paid to do it that did a half arsed job, ...ya know?
06-10-2012, 12:31 PM
#23
PS> Sometimes, the 'clean portions' on the top of a piston can indicate where there is a compromise. Coolant does what when it hits 1000*F combustion? VAPORIZES, and then 'washes' the area it's hitting. NOT ALL pistons have a perfect even coat of carbon(that's a good thing, believe it or not)... BUT, sometimes, like I said, it's obvious. The 2 holes I can see inside of actually look ok(not close up enough).... Minus maybe a lil striping(score marks that are perfectly vertical, like in #3 hole. That's usually a compromise in the ring/or debris in there that's done it's work, lol... NOT a huge deal, just a lil oil loss over time, maybe more, depending on how deep.)
Anyway, .... best wishes
Anyway, .... best wishes
06-10-2012, 02:53 PM
#24
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Hey Chef, thanks for all the help. I'm might take a day off here, but I'll get back at it.
I appreciate the comments once I figure out exactly what you said. I'm like "92 toy" guy, no real experience. But I don't think I'm an idiot either. Most of my time has been looking for the definitions and locations of parts. I'm getting to know this engine a little better tho. Putting it back together will be interesting to say the least. I got the gasket kit, so a new hd gasket. I have the head on, but I think I'll slow down and take it off and clean it with, someone said, ascetone would work.
Inside the pistons had some caked on stuff. Not sure if scraping that was going to be a good thing so I left it. I never saw a leak, so I guess what you're saying is it was evaporating on the piston. Thanks for the tip on the chain see if I can make that work.
But thanks for everything
I appreciate the comments once I figure out exactly what you said. I'm like "92 toy" guy, no real experience. But I don't think I'm an idiot either. Most of my time has been looking for the definitions and locations of parts. I'm getting to know this engine a little better tho. Putting it back together will be interesting to say the least. I got the gasket kit, so a new hd gasket. I have the head on, but I think I'll slow down and take it off and clean it with, someone said, ascetone would work.
Inside the pistons had some caked on stuff. Not sure if scraping that was going to be a good thing so I left it. I never saw a leak, so I guess what you're saying is it was evaporating on the piston. Thanks for the tip on the chain see if I can make that work.
But thanks for everything
06-10-2012, 05:03 PM
#25
You're very welcome, Randes.... No one should hint that you're an idiot... and if someone did, SHAME! lol. You're learning, and I was exactly where you're at not long ago. My experience, unfortunately, came after having to undo and redo what the knob machinist I hired did to me! lol. ALL worth it, cuz now, I KNOW this thing, even fully built my own last motor, including some of the head work and most of the block work, even some bore and honing. It can only go together ONE WAY, properly! lol.... I am fully aware that many shops that do this daily have more experience... But I doubt that MOST of them would ever have the incentive I have to see that every micrometer is covered how it's supposed to be. Once I had it out, I began realizing that "Doing a LIL more, now, instead of just 20K down the road" was the way to go. Much of that didn't even cost me more, other than time. Some did, but was well worth it, like starting fresh with a donor/used block and winding up with a 10-10 crank and very healthy BRAND NEW looking Crank main and rod journals.... And doing a lil extra honing in a unique way at the end, per my NEW machinists recommendations, using the right rings, etc., I wound up getting the rings to seat, fairly close in time to each other, within 1200 miles! The motor before that? 5500 Miles and they STILL hadn't seated! GRRR! lol.
92_Toy may not be at the "Putney's Brothers" level... but he started, asking, "what's this?" just a couple years ago, then shortly afterword... Rebuilt his entire 92's 22RE while still in the engine bay! lol. I, personally, would rather eat my own fingers... but you gotta do whatcha gotta do, right? And, that took skill, skill he developed as he went. I'd GRATEFULLY have him take a look at my rig for me, as a second set of eyes/or have him help me build one, any day of the week
Far as the piston tops... As I was sayin, .... that's actually what you want, as they seat and break in... A good coating of carbon on the top. Big blobs all over is something you might want to remove the excess of.. But that could actually wind up with that crap falling into the rings area, then aid in scoring up the cylinders even more, lol. When I had to pull mine off after 5K or so, I cleaned up the top of the block(remove the old HG material) and put rolled up towels in there, TIGHT, then layed vaseline around the edge so that it would catch anything that fell in there.... then drag it up and out with the towel when done(Just a tip, lol) But cleaning the actual piston tops? I did that(before I realized I was going to pull the whole motor) by carefully prying up the bigger chunks and then using a shop vac to suck it all up. I would guess that a LARGE portion of that crap in there COULD be that "HG sealer" and "Stop leak" stuff.... Can't be sure how much, but I'd imagine SOME, at least, in certain areas.
Far as the chain,... YOU CAN make it work.. just be patient, and maybe, if you have someone that could lend you a hand, have them push the tensioner back in to ADD to the 'slack' you need, ya know what I'm saying now?
Far as the "looks ok"... it's very hard to see in there, but if you're observant and can light it up well, you should be able to see the entire driver side guide is in tact, easily. IF NOT... well, then it's only a matter of time before you WILL wear a hole in the timing cover on the driver side... if you haven't already, ya know? The chain usually rubs around the middle/lower portion, next to where the bottom of the guide SHOULD be, lol. 9 of 10 times, maybe more, the pass. side guide is hardly showing any wear at all, lol. Just a groove, bot nothing dramatic, ya know?
Again, best wishes, and 'RESEARCH, RESEARCH, RESEARCH'! lol... Seriously, that's one of the best tools you can have on any engine work, right?
It can only go together ONE WAY, properly! lol.... I am fully aware that many shops that do this daily have more experience... But I doubt that MOST of them would ever have the incentive I have to see that every micrometer is covered how it's supposed to be. Once I had it out, I began realizing that "Doing a LIL more, now, instead of just 20K down the road" was the way to go. Much of that didn't even cost me more, other than time. Some did, but was well worth it, like starting fresh with a donor/used block and winding up with a 10-10 crank and very healthy BRAND NEW looking Crank main and rod journals.... And doing a lil extra honing in a unique way at the end, per my NEW machinists recommendations, using the right rings, etc., I wound up getting the rings to seat, fairly close in time to each other, within 1200 miles! The motor before that? 5500 Miles and they STILL hadn't seated! GRRR! lol. 92_Toy may not be at the "Putney's Brothers" level... but he started, asking, "what's this?" just a couple years ago, then shortly afterword... Rebuilt his entire 92's 22RE while still in the engine bay! lol. I, personally, would rather eat my own fingers... but you gotta do whatcha gotta do, right? And, that took skill, skill he developed as he went. I'd GRATEFULLY have him take a look at my rig for me, as a second set of eyes/or have him help me build one, any day of the week
Far as the piston tops... As I was sayin, .... that's actually what you want, as they seat and break in... A good coating of carbon on the top. Big blobs all over is something you might want to remove the excess of.. But that could actually wind up with that crap falling into the rings area, then aid in scoring up the cylinders even more, lol. When I had to pull mine off after 5K or so, I cleaned up the top of the block(remove the old HG material) and put rolled up towels in there, TIGHT, then layed vaseline around the edge so that it would catch anything that fell in there.... then drag it up and out with the towel when done(Just a tip, lol) But cleaning the actual piston tops? I did that(before I realized I was going to pull the whole motor) by carefully prying up the bigger chunks and then using a shop vac to suck it all up. I would guess that a LARGE portion of that crap in there COULD be that "HG sealer" and "Stop leak" stuff.... Can't be sure how much, but I'd imagine SOME, at least, in certain areas.
Far as the chain,... YOU CAN make it work.. just be patient, and maybe, if you have someone that could lend you a hand, have them push the tensioner back in to ADD to the 'slack' you need, ya know what I'm saying now?
Far as the "looks ok"... it's very hard to see in there, but if you're observant and can light it up well, you should be able to see the entire driver side guide is in tact, easily. IF NOT... well, then it's only a matter of time before you WILL wear a hole in the timing cover on the driver side... if you haven't already, ya know? The chain usually rubs around the middle/lower portion, next to where the bottom of the guide SHOULD be, lol. 9 of 10 times, maybe more, the pass. side guide is hardly showing any wear at all, lol. Just a groove, bot nothing dramatic, ya know?
Again, best wishes, and 'RESEARCH, RESEARCH, RESEARCH'! lol... Seriously, that's one of the best tools you can have on any engine work, right?
06-11-2012, 08:31 PM
#26
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Hi,
I looked closer at the chain, and noticed a couple of things.
I don't have the tools and not sure I want to pay for more parts right now.
The top of one side is broken off. I didn't see the broken part in the chamber tho? The driver side is just grooved metal, not sure thats right, but again if that broke off I'm not seeing anything in the chamber. I your opinion will it still work? get me to a dealership of salvage yard? I take it that is were the fluids were mixing thru.
thanks
I looked closer at the chain, and noticed a couple of things.
I don't have the tools and not sure I want to pay for more parts right now.
The top of one side is broken off. I didn't see the broken part in the chamber tho? The driver side is just grooved metal, not sure thats right, but again if that broke off I'm not seeing anything in the chamber. I your opinion will it still work? get me to a dealership of salvage yard? I take it that is were the fluids were mixing thru.
thanks
06-11-2012, 09:01 PM
#27
Dayum, I'm really confused by that picture! lol..... Can you save the original to Photobucket and just post up the original sized photo here? (Highly recommend using photobucket, it's really easy and allows you to not have to use thumbnail size stuff.... It links the pics, so they're full size of the page and we can see all the details you saw in person, ya know?)
If you need help with that, the photobucket thing, lemme know.
What's confusing is that the chain appears to be completely pushed over to the left... Is that cuz you had the head off and pushed that out of the way to get the pic? IT APPEARS as though the majority of the chain guide is still there... If that guide is completely gone, and all you see is the side of the timing cover... then yeah, it's very likely that the chain wore through.
Not seeing the top of that is not a surprise... And it might just be that it's a steel driver side guide... which I don't think even has that lil top 'U' portion that the chain is supposed to glide through. I have pics, somewhere, of my steel guides. IF YOU DO have steel guides and there isn't supposed to be a 'top U portion', ..then it's something else causing the fluids to mix.
Yeah, can you take a couple more pics at different angles, make sure there's plenty of light and then post em up using photobucket? I SWEAR it would help me to help you better, randes.
BTW, the timing kit is pretty cheap.... 88$ WITH; Chain, Tensioner(Japan), Gear and Steel Guides.... AND timing cover>> http://engnbldr.com/toyota-ala-carte.html
By any chance, are you in the L.A. area? I'd be glad to give you a hand when I have time. If not, I'll also gladly guide you through it the best I can, man... And there are DOZENS of VERY thorough threads on here and all over the web. 4cralwer, 4x4wire, DOARacing, etc., etc.
Again, we're not even sure YOU HAVE A timing guide problem, or cover problem, etc.... GOTTA see that closer up, ok?
IF the chain guide is a plastic one.... Well, there's no wonder why you don't see the pieces... they're POOF! They wind up in the oil pan and often get sucked up into the pick up screen and clog it up... Sometimes they don't. I found the majority of one that busted on me all together in the pan, just laying there, ....MOCKING ME! hahhaa.
I have a pic, somewhere in my PBucket, of my timing cover/back side. I will post it and you can paint shop it and tell me if you see any wear on the cover. If the guide IS still there, it's not likely you would. Gotta figure that out, first, ok? Don't give up just yet... Just bigger pics first, k?
If you need help with that, the photobucket thing, lemme know.
What's confusing is that the chain appears to be completely pushed over to the left... Is that cuz you had the head off and pushed that out of the way to get the pic? IT APPEARS as though the majority of the chain guide is still there... If that guide is completely gone, and all you see is the side of the timing cover... then yeah, it's very likely that the chain wore through.
Not seeing the top of that is not a surprise... And it might just be that it's a steel driver side guide... which I don't think even has that lil top 'U' portion that the chain is supposed to glide through. I have pics, somewhere, of my steel guides. IF YOU DO have steel guides and there isn't supposed to be a 'top U portion', ..then it's something else causing the fluids to mix.
Yeah, can you take a couple more pics at different angles, make sure there's plenty of light and then post em up using photobucket? I SWEAR it would help me to help you better, randes.
BTW, the timing kit is pretty cheap.... 88$ WITH; Chain, Tensioner(Japan), Gear and Steel Guides.... AND timing cover>> http://engnbldr.com/toyota-ala-carte.html
By any chance, are you in the L.A. area? I'd be glad to give you a hand when I have time. If not, I'll also gladly guide you through it the best I can, man... And there are DOZENS of VERY thorough threads on here and all over the web. 4cralwer, 4x4wire, DOARacing, etc., etc.
Again, we're not even sure YOU HAVE A timing guide problem, or cover problem, etc.... GOTTA see that closer up, ok?
IF the chain guide is a plastic one.... Well, there's no wonder why you don't see the pieces... they're POOF! They wind up in the oil pan and often get sucked up into the pick up screen and clog it up... Sometimes they don't. I found the majority of one that busted on me all together in the pan, just laying there, ....MOCKING ME! hahhaa.
I have a pic, somewhere in my PBucket, of my timing cover/back side. I will post it and you can paint shop it and tell me if you see any wear on the cover. If the guide IS still there, it's not likely you would. Gotta figure that out, first, ok? Don't give up just yet... Just bigger pics first, k?
06-12-2012, 04:08 AM
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Hey,
Okay I'll hang in there a little longer.
I would need to get all the tools also.
I might need to get a car and make this a project.
I'll figure the pict. bucket thing out and get back with you .
Thanks for hanging with me.
Type at you later.
Okay I'll hang in there a little longer.
I would need to get all the tools also.
I might need to get a car and make this a project.
I'll figure the pict. bucket thing out and get back with you .
Thanks for hanging with me.
Type at you later.
06-12-2012, 01:27 PM
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Okay see if this helps. It looks pretty bad, I'm just wondering how long will it last if I didn't do the work. I might just trade it in, or wait to fix it for a while.
https://www.dropbox.com/home/Public
https://www.dropbox.com/home/Public
06-14-2012, 03:37 PM
#31
Hey Randes, ...........
Nope, nothing you said, ..........rather, it's my FREAKING 1 CRISES AFTER ANOTHER life right now, ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! ...... ehchem, sorry, had a mild breakdown there for a second! hahaha. Jk, Randes... I'm just really overwhelmed with life/trying to get ready to leave town, etc., etc. Hadn't even seen you'd posted.
Problem; I don't have a Dropbucket account.... I mentioned www.photobucket.com .... That is the most commonly and easily used site to just drop pics, no matter if they're 4MB, right on the page here. Get an account there, make an album called Randes Rebuild or something, .... Then click "upload". Then it prompts you to "upload from?", click 'my computer'(I'm assuming they're in ur computer?). Then just click all the pics you want from your computer album while holding down 'Ctrl'..... this allows you to upload more than one at a time from an album in your puter..... Then click "OPEN" and it will upload. Then click 'save and view my album'.... VOILA, you're done. Anytime you've got uploaded pics, just put your cursor over the picture in photobucket and a window of 4 optional links will pop up. Just 'click on the IMG link', the last one down on the bottom.... It should automatically copy it.. Then, come here and in the text window, just right click, then click 'PASTE', and VOILA-2, lol... 'YOU'VE GOT PIX' on the page
Sorry man, I just don't have time to join another site, etc., ya know? Gotta meet me at least half way and I'll do everything I can to give you my personal opinion, based on what I see and your current circumstances. I wanna help, if I can, Randes, k?
I'll check back in asap. But I'm preparing to go to AZ and visit my father, for Fathers Day... and he's not well. That, combined with my life being a bit of a mess right now, ....well, I'm saying, "gotta be patient", and I WILL help asap, promise.
See ya soon,
Mark
Nope, nothing you said, ..........rather, it's my FREAKING 1 CRISES AFTER ANOTHER life right now, ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! ...... ehchem, sorry, had a mild breakdown there for a second! hahaha. Jk, Randes... I'm just really overwhelmed with life/trying to get ready to leave town, etc., etc. Hadn't even seen you'd posted.
Problem; I don't have a Dropbucket account.... I mentioned www.photobucket.com .... That is the most commonly and easily used site to just drop pics, no matter if they're 4MB, right on the page here. Get an account there, make an album called Randes Rebuild or something, .... Then click "upload". Then it prompts you to "upload from?", click 'my computer'(I'm assuming they're in ur computer?). Then just click all the pics you want from your computer album while holding down 'Ctrl'..... this allows you to upload more than one at a time from an album in your puter..... Then click "OPEN" and it will upload. Then click 'save and view my album'.... VOILA, you're done. Anytime you've got uploaded pics, just put your cursor over the picture in photobucket and a window of 4 optional links will pop up. Just 'click on the IMG link', the last one down on the bottom.... It should automatically copy it.. Then, come here and in the text window, just right click, then click 'PASTE', and VOILA-2, lol... 'YOU'VE GOT PIX' on the page
Sorry man, I just don't have time to join another site, etc., ya know? Gotta meet me at least half way and I'll do everything I can to give you my personal opinion, based on what I see and your current circumstances. I wanna help, if I can, Randes, k?
I'll check back in asap. But I'm preparing to go to AZ and visit my father, for Fathers Day... and he's not well. That, combined with my life being a bit of a mess right now, ....well, I'm saying, "gotta be patient", and I WILL help asap, promise.
See ya soon,
Mark
06-14-2012, 04:01 PM
#32
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I second the photobucket account, way easy to use and large pictures. Anyway where are you located? Maybe a local board member would be willing to help out.
Last edited by 85TurboRunner; 06-14-2012 at 04:02 PM.
06-14-2012, 06:09 PM
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Sorry to hear all that Chef. I hope everything works out. You've been a big help; don't sweat this. Dropbox should be public access. You shouldn't need an account, should just click on the link. But I guess you had problems so I'll work thru the photobucket. Basically portions of my guides in the chamber are missing. It looks like I'll need to replace them. It will be more money. I guess this will be a project. Know where I can find a Tacoma, shipped to me? None in my area. I love these Toys.
You take care of your stuff, thanks for the concern.
I'm wondering tho, if I was to do a little more on this; 370000+, what would make a deference?
thnx
You take care of your stuff, thanks for the concern.
I'm wondering tho, if I was to do a little more on this; 370000+, what would make a deference?
thnx
06-28-2012, 02:03 AM
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I'm at a stopping point. I bought a 4 runner for now and the truck is now a project.
I need to get some tools. I need a breaker bar it looks like. to get the chain cover off and a puller. I guess while I'm in there I should change the water pump, they're kind of cheap and I don't know how to test if it good any way; of the oil pump for that matter. Also a jack to get the oil pan off. I'm going to get back on this soon. Thanks for the post. Any advice before I proceed would be appreciated. I'm not looking forward to it, looks like it might be over my head but I have no choice. I need to try this.
thanks
I need to get some tools. I need a breaker bar it looks like. to get the chain cover off and a puller. I guess while I'm in there I should change the water pump, they're kind of cheap and I don't know how to test if it good any way; of the oil pump for that matter. Also a jack to get the oil pan off. I'm going to get back on this soon. Thanks for the post. Any advice before I proceed would be appreciated. I'm not looking forward to it, looks like it might be over my head but I have no choice. I need to try this.
thanks
06-28-2012, 03:17 AM
#36
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
hey...Chef is one of the more technically inclined peeps around here....kinda by default because he's had his share of trouble shooting (that's about as simplified as that summary gets Mark, eh?). If anyone can help you, it's Chef (Mark), plus he's a decent cook :wink: .
Not sure what you need at this point except maybe some encouragement. my thread is pretty decent if I do say so myself, since I was a total noob when I started working on my motor.
check it out----->>>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...cement-212688/ I believe I have links to other threads.....at the very least you can find lots of helpful info on Roger's site (4crawler) at http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml he has "tips and tricks" and indeed, it is loaded with plenty of tips and tricks.
Not sure what you need at this point except maybe some encouragement. my thread is pretty decent if I do say so myself, since I was a total noob when I started working on my motor.
check it out----->>>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...cement-212688/ I believe I have links to other threads.....at the very least you can find lots of helpful info on Roger's site (4crawler) at http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml he has "tips and tricks" and indeed, it is loaded with plenty of tips and tricks.
Last edited by 92 TOY; 06-28-2012 at 03:18 AM.
06-28-2012, 05:17 AM
#38
YotaTech Milestone-Two Millionth Post
you are welcome. I know some stuff but mostly I know that with the ingredients of determination,patience,searchabilitynessosity and deep pockets, you can do this.
06-28-2012, 09:59 AM
#39
Wow, .... thanks, Jerry! hahaha... Yep, nice summary. IT WAS A NIGHTMARE GREMLIN HUNT/3 TEAR DOWN AND RE-INSTALL/ AND FINALLY RE-REBUILD! .... eh chem... sorry, just a lil FURIOUS at times when I thinkabout it! lol.
Take your time with a razor and make your way around the oil pan.... That sealer can be INCREDIBLY bonding! if you just cut through the front end of it, when you go to pry it off.... BENDOMATIC! Then you're REALLY gonna be ticked when you need a new pan, right? I kept cutting away, then started to see it dropping from the front... then just kept peeling my way back till it, well, FELL OUT! hehe.
The Crank bolt?.... Depends.. Jerry up there had a hell of a time... I, on the other hand, had 257K miles on it, .......BUT, it'd been cut at the flange before(it's like a flex washer, the outer part of the bolt... and if the outer edge on one side is cut away... it takes TREMENOUS pressure off the ability of the bolt to stay 'LOCKED LIKE IT'S SUPERGLUED!'... I took a 1/2"x26" Breaker bar, hung on the thing and POP! Trick for me was putting it in 5th Gear, e-brake on and then blocking the wheels really well before "GRRRRRRRRRR" (this helps if you don't want to RUN OVER YOUR OWN HEAD! haha)
MAKE STENCILS! On 4crawlers page for 'timing cover'.... he has a print out of the bolt locations and length, etc.... I taped that to the cardboard and voila! Stencil!
Make sure you clean the tips of the oil pan bolts off from "FIPG".... And then clean the holes out, too! Use a pick, it works great and it's cheap as heck at any parts store. (the oil pan bolts actually need a lil dab of FIPG on them/and in the bolt holes).... Then don't forget to put the sealer on the INSIDE of the bolt holes on the pan before install.(Before installing, take your time and 'TEST INSTALL' it.... Jerry will tell you that you'll wind up with an arm COATED with FIPG(as we both did) when you are reaching in there to bolt up the 'oil pick up tube'.... YEP, you have to bolt that in AFTER, in most cases, because the pan wont fit up over the diff, even when it's dropped a bit, with the oil pick up already installed. I tried EVERYTHING... couldn't test fit it with the pick up already on. Maybe Jerry has a trick?).
Best wishes, .... I'll check in to see how you're doing whenever I see a post/or remember a helpful tip
Take your time with a razor and make your way around the oil pan.... That sealer can be INCREDIBLY bonding! if you just cut through the front end of it, when you go to pry it off.... BENDOMATIC! Then you're REALLY gonna be ticked when you need a new pan, right? I kept cutting away, then started to see it dropping from the front... then just kept peeling my way back till it, well, FELL OUT! hehe.
The Crank bolt?.... Depends.. Jerry up there had a hell of a time... I, on the other hand, had 257K miles on it, .......BUT, it'd been cut at the flange before(it's like a flex washer, the outer part of the bolt... and if the outer edge on one side is cut away... it takes TREMENOUS pressure off the ability of the bolt to stay 'LOCKED LIKE IT'S SUPERGLUED!'... I took a 1/2"x26" Breaker bar, hung on the thing and POP! Trick for me was putting it in 5th Gear, e-brake on and then blocking the wheels really well before "GRRRRRRRRRR" (this helps if you don't want to RUN OVER YOUR OWN HEAD! haha)
MAKE STENCILS! On 4crawlers page for 'timing cover'.... he has a print out of the bolt locations and length, etc.... I taped that to the cardboard and voila! Stencil!
Make sure you clean the tips of the oil pan bolts off from "FIPG".... And then clean the holes out, too! Use a pick, it works great and it's cheap as heck at any parts store. (the oil pan bolts actually need a lil dab of FIPG on them/and in the bolt holes).... Then don't forget to put the sealer on the INSIDE of the bolt holes on the pan before install.(Before installing, take your time and 'TEST INSTALL' it.... Jerry will tell you that you'll wind up with an arm COATED with FIPG(as we both did) when you are reaching in there to bolt up the 'oil pick up tube'.... YEP, you have to bolt that in AFTER, in most cases, because the pan wont fit up over the diff, even when it's dropped a bit, with the oil pick up already installed. I tried EVERYTHING... couldn't test fit it with the pick up already on. Maybe Jerry has a trick?).
Best wishes, .... I'll check in to see how you're doing whenever I see a post/or remember a helpful tip
06-29-2012, 02:16 PM
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Defintely 2nd Chef's suggestion on keeping track of timing cover bolts- I HAD a diagram with all the bolts, had traced around a new timing cover onto cardboard, removed dozens of bolts of various sizes, and still TWICE thought that I had all bolts off. Missed bolts in plain view, had seen to the various hidden bolts and 2 oil pan bolts.
Too bad that head came off 1st, would have been fairly easy to use the starter to loosen the crank pulley bolt with a 1/2 drive ratchet or breaker bar.
Too bad that head came off 1st, would have been fairly easy to use the starter to loosen the crank pulley bolt with a 1/2 drive ratchet or breaker bar.
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