fyerser

I've asked this question on other forums, but the only people that answer have 38s, and top out a 35mph. My question is; I have an '85 toyo with a 22re, 5spd, & 4.10 gears from factory. I want to run 31/10.5r15 tires. What kind of mileage will i get at 65mph on the highway? Someone tried to tell me it wouldn't go down the highway without putting 4.88s in it. I cannot go test the mpg, and i've never driven a toyo. The '85 i have i traded for, it needs bearings, but before i rebuild this truck, i need to know if it will do what i need it to, otherwise i'm selling it to a friend.

crg1990

I've an 85 22re 5spd with 4.10s. I'm running 32/11.50R15s and i get over 20 mpg on the freeway. It depends greatly on the wind though.

SCToy

I got 22mpg with my 95 4.10s and 31x10.5s 22re. It did fine on the freeway, just remember if you go faster than 65 your mileage will go down significantly.

SCToy

You'll only ever get to time travel with a real good tail wind and/or a decent hill.

Outsane

I have a 4runner, 84, 22r, couple of engine mods, lifted 31's, stock gears and I just got 15 unadjusted, city driving.

I have gotten 18 once..

Hope that helps

fyerser

Thank you, finally some good answers. I shouldn't have any problem pulling a 16ft aluminum boat, either, should i?

michael1963

fyerser - I've got the 22re, 5 speed manual, 4.10s with 33s (91 4Runner) and on the hwy at 100km/h (roughly 60mph) I'm getting 20 mpg. You won't have any problems with 31s and your boat.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Hey Fyerser,

87 4runner, 22re 5spd SR5, 31's, 4:10's, stock height(minus the Zuk mod), was getting 16 City and 21 HWY..... (16city IF I BABIED IT)... I have some "RICH" issues, so I'll deal with that after I re-rebuild, lol(long story)...but I WOULD do 85MPH, no problem, on the flat. I also could do only 40-50mph, max, up the grapevine in CA(it's a notorious hill)...because of the gears, mostly.... But then I swapped in a 261 CAM from Engnbldr..... went up the same hill without any more mods from where I was at 55-60mph the next time... GREAT slap in mod, and if you're doing bearings, might be a good time to do it if you're not planning on doing gears, etc.

I just put in 4.30 gears with a locker...I'll report my "UP THE HILLS" findings, later, as it might help a lil)> it's SUPPOSED to be 4.56's for 31's, for optimum performance(actually, stock, they came with 4.56's in Manual Trans with stock 31's in the mid 90's... maybe earlier, not sure. lol) 4.56's with 31's will also tell you EXACTLY how fast your going, how many miles, etc., as they work together for the stock ratio/to/tire size factors.

fyerser

I wondered about going with 33s, and lower gears, but it just seems like too much tire for a 22re, and 65mph. This truck has 303k on it, and it's never been rebuilt. I was going to order a rebuild kit online i found that comes with a performance cam. Going to have it bored out whether it needs it or not since the miles are high. This truck will be a daily driver, but i'm bad to go hunting for a mud hole.

SCToy

My 81 will do 65 on 33s and 35s with 4.88 gears. It's 30 years old and carbuerated, only 161k miles, but still, it's real old and never been rebuilt

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Well, then YOU have to design it for YOU, ya know? What I mean is, .... you'll get TONS of conflicting advice on this site or any other, ...but one thing is sure.... OEM Stat's(staying near stock) is usually your best bet for longevity, ...... and yet, adding a 261 CAM or something like it would NOT limit or hinder reliability, etc. Might cause you gas, as you'll wanna stomp on it a bit more, lol....But that leads to the other thing... PLEASE, whatever you do, ....do some research on whatever kit you're going to buy. I had someone rebuild my long block, ...did all the other stuff myself... including clutch, etc. While I saved a bit pulling it myself, ... I then put myself in the position of having to pull it back out and get it to them if something went really wrong. Well, ....MANY things went VERY wrong, lol.... 90% directly related to Builder error.

My point is this; RESEARCH! And when you're done, pick parts that are guaranteed to last longer. You'll likely be reusing your rods, but the bearings, pistons, rings, HG, Valve Guides, Seals, Exhaust valves(at least, usually) and rocker pad resurfacing will have to be done..... So BE SURE, once you slap the stuff in, ....it's QUALITY! Not worth a couple hundred dollars to have gone through what I did over a YEAR! lol. Trust me, ... RESEARCH! <><<Did I say that already?

Which leads again to my question... 'WHAT IS THIS KIT YOU SPEAK OF?'...Some ebay thing?

And these motors can handle 33's fine, ...but you might have a lil trouble on hills and such and pulling something if you stick with stock gears, ya know???

fyerser

I'll rebuild it myself, i've rebuilt a few engines, just finished a toyo 3.0. The kit with the performance cam was on ebay, they said the cam was the biggest you could put without making other modifications or something similar. The price was in the 200s, can't remember exactly. It was complete with new pistons, & timing chain & gears. My plan is to completely(and i mean completely) rebuild this truck. I've wanted one of these '88 & older toyota 4x4s for a long time. My neighbor bought this one for $600, it supposedly needed only a head gasket, but the motor knocks over 2k rpm. I pulled the pan & the rod bearings fell out before i got the rod caps off. It's a lwb, std cab, with a "$700 limited slip rear end". I think they meant the limited slip was $700, not the rear end. I've already stuck a winch on the front of this thing, and my neighbor is going to sell me a set of newer aluminum toyo rims to go on it. The truck is in good shape for the miles, sr5 seats look good, not rusty, not packed with mud underneath. And on top of that, it had little tires on it. But i was looking the motor over, and almost nothing has been touched on it. All the wiring is original and unmodified. The only things under the hood that aren't original, it's missing the a/c belt, and the temp gauge wire broke out of the temp switch, so they put a mech gauge in the block beneath the intake somewhere. The local head shop does 22re heads for $150 minimum, but i found new heads somewhere for $220. I was going to buy a new head, & take it and the cam to the head shop so they can set the valve lash.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

I'd just wait till you slap the head to the block and then set the lash, .... (machine shops can rig it up and set the adjusters for ya.... but I'd personally wait till it's torqued down to 62 Lbs., to the block----it's an overhead cam, .......) Just sayin

OHHHH, so you already found and ordered the parts? Ok, well, I wasn't trying to talk down, promise.... just sharing my experience.... and my experience was a nightmare thus far, despite my best intentions and go getter attitude! hahaha. Starting over, like I am, I'm going with at least Toyota or Better Valves, best quality guides I can get, OEM seals, new springs if suggested(might not, considering I've already broken in this cam to these rockers, ya know?)

Using only Toyota Seals as well, or at least Koyo in cases that's what they use, etc.

Whatever they(Toyota) did to mine in 87...., ....it ran for A QUARTER MILLION MILES without ANY major overhaul or even a valve job! lol. So, .... I think there is something to the "OEM IS BEST" ... in MOST situations. Lots of the 'aftermarket' kits are good, but if you ask around, .....some are NOT AT ALL. Many machinists and engine builders visit this site.... Ya know? I've been asking them MANY things! lol.

Moonfish

I checked my mpg it was 19 but I've never put on an 02 sensor or any wise mpg stuff. 200# of sand in the bed though.

I can pull my boat 16' tin. It doesn't like hills very much and the boat is not very heavy but the added wind resistence is pretty large. The 1/2 adequate parking brake is also a bit annoying. It is kinda like pulling a boat with a car, you don't forget it is back there but you can do it ok. If you short shift you gotta shift down again.

Swimmerboy2112

iTrader: (2)

Mix of city/highway with 31x10.50's, 2" lift, roof rack, light bar with 4 lights, 22RE, 5spd, 4.10 gears, 260,000mi, i get 21mpg.

fyerser

Haven't ordered anything yet, got to see how far they bore it out, & how much they turn the crank before ordering so i can order correct oversized pistons & bearings. I was going to rebuild this truck a month ago, but i got on a toyo forum & asked the question i've asked you folks. Everyone that answered on the other forum was telling me i needed 4.88 gears or "you'll burn up alot of clutches slipping the clutch, trying to take off", which sounds to me like someone who needed to buy a truck with an automatic. After hearing their responses, i held off on the toyo, and worked on some of these other vehicles. But now, after hearing from you guys, i'm going to go ahead and rebuild it.

peow130

A friend of mine gets 20+MPG with 33's and 4.56's in his SAS'ed truck

skoti89

honestly, 31's are decent. I run 33's now with stock gears and Im going to go back to something around 30'' tire because Im about to make a 1200 mile journey. They are a great medium for off roading and driving around town. for some reason i was pushing 3000-3200rpms at about 70mph. which seems to not be accurate to some other people experience. I know my speedo was off though

fyerser

I live 20mi from town, i drive 5mi of backroads to the highway & take the highway to town. I go to town at least every other day, so i need the mpg. My plan was to sell some of my other vehicles, and sink the money into this '85 toyo. We pull alot of vehicles & a couple of tractors, but i have a dually for that. I plan to make this my do all, drive all the time truck. Most i'd ever pull is probably the aluminum boat.

ChefYota4x4

iTrader: (5)

Personally, for a DD, in the conditions your explaining?..... I'd go with 31x10.50x15's. 31's PROBABLY THE MOST common size out there. Plus, I've gotten out of plenty of crappy situations with my 31's, only wishing on rare occasions that I had 33's or something bigger(for the 'softer ride through the washboard' factor, haha). Now, with a locker, I think I'll be just fine with the 4.30 gears, header, cam and some head work.

With 31's, the 4.10's will do you fine with a fresh motor and lil beefier cam. Mine does the Grapevine(notorious highway mountain pass that kills many people's cars who don't know when to turn off the AC, hahaa) NO PROBLEM, now, with the CAM and couple other lil mods like the header, etc. With lil bit oversized valves and cam, maybe a header, I'm sure it'd serve your purposes fine. Plus, mine did fine on that pass fully loaded with LOTS of gear for a long trip.(And that was with my stock 4.10's)

For wheeling, however, .... as I've been told, and plan on finding out in this rig, asap..... "LOCKER IS THE BEST INVESTMENT FOR WHEELING THAT YOU'LL MAKE! At least in the rear". You can pick one up, a lunchbox style, from Spartan for around 260$.

Yeah, ...lil buiding up you're doing to the motor, a locker in the rear, a header and CAM and 31's?.... I think you'd be served JUST FINE for the dual purpose you need it for without having to put in another several hundred in gears, etc. I mean,...you're concerned about the price of Gas, legitimately so! Right?... So,....why not save on the rest of it where possible, right? hahaha. You'd be surprised what a header, head work and a cam can do for you up hills, etc.....it's like adding half or more of another gear, ya know? ..........Unfortunately, my builder was possibly having mental issues while he built my motor....so, ....I'm having to do it over, hahaha. But, live and learn, right?