jjjlsk8ter

I have a 92 toyota with the 22re and was supposedly recently rebuilt prior to me buying. It has a knocking noise at a certain rpm range, not at idle and not past half throttle. the truck is very strong, great compression, and no smoke or anything of that sort happening. any clues what it may be ? THANKS Here is a youtube video of the actual truck. [YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDLMrUEZ-Gs

xxxtreme22r

sounds like timing chain slap or dare i say it a slight rod knock. could possibly be an engine ping or rockers hitting the valve cover, but that seems kinda loud to be that. Mine did that for about a year and 6,000 miles before it spun #4 rod bearing.

jjjlsk8ter

the previous owner also thought it was a rod knock, so he went ahead and changed the bearings again just in case.It was supposedly rebuilt from top to bottom.is there a better way to check the timing chain ? i removed the valve cover and all looked good including the plastic chain guides, is there a better way to check ? i know that the chain is loose when the motors off since the tensioner runs off oil pressure. I also pulled a plug wire one at a time to see if i could narrow down the knock on a certain cylinder, but the noise never changed. The noise sounds like its coming near the middle of the engine, but its hard to pinpoint the noise.

xxxtreme22r

did he just drop the pan and change out the bearings without actually rebuilding the motor? nope that's the way you would check the timing chain guides. do you have a check engine light on? how is your oil pressure? could just be the tensioner is wore out as well.

jjjlsk8ter

oil pressure is good, he pulled the motor completely out of the truck when he rebuilt it. i did a compression test for the heck of it and its showing between 195 to 205 psi, does that sound too high ?

xxxtreme22r

yeah it does, but when it comes to compression on these, I am not sure I believe 170 is normal????, but if that's the case, it could very well be an engine ping. Have you checked to see where your timing is set at?

jjjlsk8ter

the compression is actually between 165ish to 175 all cylinders, i forgot to open the throttle b4 testing.

jjjlsk8ter

i pulled the oil pan and the is slight vertical play in the connecting rod nearest the front of the truck, takes decent amount of force to make it go up, the other 3 are tight. shouldn't be any vertical play correct ? i pulled the cap and the bearings still look brand new and no damage to the crankshaft, looks brand new and nothing metal or anything in the oil pan. the bearings show .25, the crank was turned and all new bearings installed b4 i bought the truck. so what would my next step be ?

technojunkie

I would go ahead and plastigauge the #1. If there's play that means that there's too much clearance between the rod and the crank. Either one of them is out of spec or was machined and the bearing isn't the right size. You can get a thicker bearing once you know how much thicker you need to go. From what I hear it isn't uncommon for one rod to have a different size bearing.

jjjlsk8ter

will do the plastigauge, so there shouldn't be 0 movement to wiggle it up and down or side to side correct ? i know side play is normal. there is 0 damage it appears to the crank and bearings which i would think since it has play that it would have damage to at least the bearing by now. i think the next bearing size up is .50, if thats so and the gap isnt that much than whats my next move getting the crank re-worked ?

jjjlsk8ter

i did the platigage test, showing .076mm on the rod that has play . the bearing in it now says 01-1133 ndc .25, does .25 mean oversized or undersized ?

pruney81

sounds like a rod knock to me.

TOYOTA 1

thats as rod as it gets..

it would mean over sized. because the crank/rod is wore down you would need an "over sized bearing to take up the extra space.. if the crank needs fixed you have to pull the motor or drop the tranny. if the rod needs fixed you have to pull the head.

HighLux

Could be piston pin slap. Is it there all the time? warmed up? cold start?

jjjlsk8ter

with the .25 bearing in it now, would going to .50 bearings work ? would there be enough clearance ? it knocks the whole time, from cold to driving it for 30 mins, doesn't change at all.

TOYOTA 1

the fsm has me confused, seams like there calling them undersized bearings?

regardless, you need a thicker bearing. standard clearance is .025mm threw .055mm ..

so if you measuring .076mm you need a bearing at least .025mm thicker than the one you have. i would try to find one as close to the minimum tolerance (.025mm) as possible.

jjjlsk8ter

yea toyota 1, i hear undersized and oversized depending on sources, id say with the .50mm bearings it should spec at around .026 which is right over the spec of .025mm

TOYOTA 1

was the bearing spun?

was there any brass showing?

jjjlsk8ter

no spun bearing and no damage to crank or even the bearings, they still have the factory coating on them. the engine was all rebuild, bottom up crank reground and everything. the truck was barely driven when the knock started. It appears the machine shop ground down the crank too much on the 1 cylinder. there is just too much clearance,the max spec is .055 and this one is .076mm the engine looks like brand new when i pulled the pan.

jjjlsk8ter

update. i went and bought .50mm bearings today and they are too tight and .25 is too loose, im guessing my only option is new crank or have the current crank grounded a bit so that the .50 bearings fit. anything else i can do ?