rworegon

WP is likely not the culprit if it was changed that recent.

Check under the oil filler cap for a white/cream colored goo...another sign that coolant is in the oil. Unscrew the cap and turn it over, take a look see.

I drove mine for about a year while I was slowly losing coolant and could not figure out where it was going. By looking at the UOA I'm fairly confident minimal wear was caused by the coolant seeping into the oil.

brettb

burped radiator last night.... appeared that the radiator was not cycling? looking in side it looked liked it was moving back and forth like from the engine vibration.... heat on high never produced any heat.... after a while I hit the gas and 1. got some heat to come out and 2. pushed some fluid out of radiator

radiator was hot to touch and top of engine seemed cool?? not sure if that helps?

then put cap on still no heat unless I hit the gas... and only if i hit the gas.. don't believe this is normal?

also under the oil cap looked very normal
reservoir smelled like it could have exhaust smell? my sinuses are really bad so hard to tell????

in addition when cold the coolant level in reservoir came back down to the full line!

also just noticed the radiator is under pressure when cold too!

did not drive it late last night... Oh and one last thing... while in my hands according to temp gauge inside on dash I never "overheated"
after the flushing and replacement the temp gauge sits in the the straight up position wether pulling hills or going down or flats where before pulling hills the temp gauge approached the red but never got there as I was always at my destination.... hope that may help in diagnosis...

brettb

bump... i have tuesday all day to work on the truck! any advice would be great thanks

dewiseman

when you looked at the rad flow (lack of) was the motor up to operating temp or cold? Did you check /feel the rad hose to see if it had pressure on it?
Compare engine cold to engine at operating temp on the hose. When the engine is at operating temp ( thermostat open) you should see substantional flow through the rad. Does it make a difference with heater on full or off? (comparing flow to check for plugged heater core) I'm leaning toward blocked rad or heater core but still rule out that you don't have a faulty t stat.

rworegon

OP:
1) What is the coolant level in the radiator when cold?
2) Is the heater water control valve opening and coolant circulating through the heater? Air in the system (still) is a likely culprit of the heater no heat if the valve is working.
3) Did you use a 180deg Toyota thermostat? I never have good luck with parts store t-stats.
4) What coolant to water ratio do you have in there?

brettb

flow was not moving hot or cold with heater on high.... never tried with heater off....

coolant level when cold is at full.... after driving overflowing

heater water control valve i don't know about? do know that I only get heat when driving or hitting gas while idling?? that seems odd ....

new T-stat is from car quest... went with what i could get quickly in the mts. vs. drink over an hr. round trip...

coolant used was Toyota 50/50 mix

dewiseman

check for pressure on the upper rad hose when engine is warm. Also feel the water pump shaft, any play there?

brettb

Radiator under pressure when cold... sprayed fluid over engine when taking cap of this morning...

while engine is up to temp with heater OFF i am getting a surfer every few secs in radar fluid with a bubble of air.... when i ran it at temp with heater on I had no movement

upper radiator hose is mushy (its 5 days new)

overflow tank was low when cold after drive 1/2 mile to work today? as it was full when cold2 days ago without driving it since then...

tomorrow is my work on truck day... any advice ?

brettb

pulled radiator tonight.. picking up new one tomorrow... hoping for the best...
sounds silly but couldn't get the grill off... still managed to get her out... hopefully will go back in easy enough????

rworegon

There are little clips that hold the grill on that are released with a long thin screwdriver. Be careful, the clips are easy to break. Zip ties can be used to hold the grill on. :-)

Did you get a new radiator cap too?

brettb

yup i notice they are hard to break... both ends of the grill were previously broke.. i got th upper ones but couldn't get the lower ones off? going to get parts

...

SeldomSeenSlim

it sounds like your issue lies elsewhere, but for what it's worth I had a similar problem and it turned out my fan clutch was bad. if you turn it by hand and feel a lot of resistance you might want to consider replacing it.

brettb

replaced radiator today and also purchased the toyota thermostat and radiator and ditched the car quest replacement i bought last week...
1st 30 mile drive and no boiling over into overflow! being hesitant to think its cured.. will drive it about 100 miles tonight round trip....

fan does have some resistance when turning by hand?

rworegon

Progress!

Yes, the fan should have resistance when warm....that is normal for the fan clutch...you certainly do not want it free spinning. Maybe turns a blade or two before stopping when flipped by hand, IIRC. Also, the fan should take off moving a bunch of air for a few minutes when cold before slowing some some...the blades should always be turning, regardless of the engine temp. They are filled with silicone oil that has interesting properties.

Several threads around here on how to test the fan clutch.

2big4arunner

I am having the same issues on my 4runner and just about the same conditions minus the overflow tank stuff. I have no pressure on the top rad hose. I did see that you got the toyota thermostat and it helped.. I am gonna be using a beck/arnley since they are made for beck by the same place that made the toyota ones. it also has the jiggle valve that the others dont have. I am also putting in a new radiator from a ford. you will see my posting on here as well

3.0 highway overheating issue, water pump or radiator?

that is the name of my other post with the pictures of the ford rad I am gonna put in.

I will take pictures after if everything goes good.

brettb

okay... went for my 100mi. round trip and 15 min into threw the check engine light...
turned around drove the 15 mi. back.... still no radiator overflow problem but the engine is running really rough... kind of like when i lost compression in my F150 #5 and 6 cylinders... 1st, 2nd, & 3rd engine stumbling at lower RPMS!!!! ugh! only had this truck for 10 days? previous owner agreed to pay for a diagnostic check.... but I'm 700$ deep into it already.....

rworegon

You local autoparts store will likely scan the code(s) and give them to you for free. Post them up.

brettb

just used a buddies hand held scanner... code PO301 = #1 cylinder misfire

rworegon

Swap that cylinders coil with another cylinders coil and see if the code follows it to the new cylinder.

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/...e/cip0300p.pdf

brettb

Bad news... Shop looked it over for free... #1 cylinder plug coated with antifreeze!!!!! Previous owner said lets get estimate and he will help with repair costs.... Whats this repair looking at for costs?